That is a universal kit...it WILL have to be modified to work. But, yes it's a far cry from $800+ .NotDave wrote:only $90 for the kit, i find it amazing how some people want like $1500 for it lol
Are you sure about that? I was under the impression that the Hinson mounts were pretty much solid.XofXtimeX wrote:Well not exactly 1500, but close...800 to 1200 depending on how much work you have Hinson do for you and you do your self. The difference is you're getting soft mounts as well which is nicer for daily driving the car if you don't plan to just run it at the strip.
I'm using an Apex'i GT Spec Exhaust and running a Stainless 3" Y pipe to connect the headers into it. I haven't really got under there to look at what is going to be necessary, but I think it'll work out. Might have to buy some Oval tubing from Burns, but I hope not. For the crossover to clear the transmission, I might have to cut the GT spec back to the resonator, but time will tell. I'll post up pics when I'm finished.tl1000sga wrote:What are you planning for the exhaust? Don't want duals, but worried about clearance if I have to have a crossover pipe.
It's what I was under the impression of why it wuld even be ok to be worth 800. If not good lord lol.cnichols wrote:
Are you sure about that? I was under the impression that the Hinson mounts were pretty much solid.
Mine have the round poly bushing and I also used a 60A Durometer hardness 1/4" square of polyurethane between the mount and subframe so it's not completely solid.
Yes, it's from a 3/8" thick piece of aluminum that I had CNC'd. You may not want to use my dimensions as your engine may end up in a different spot than mine. It's probably best to start with the crossmember and go from there. I could have gone back a little farther (towards the firewall), but wanted room to get behind the intake as the MAP sensor, knock sensor, and oil pressure sensor are all on the rear of the block. Also, my entire engine harness comes through the firewall behind the passenger side head, so I needed access to it.nani wrote:is that the finished transmission mount? looks like aluminum cnc? if could you share the dimensions, i think i can do the same thing at work. let me know tahnks?
Thanks! It's a shame I was "gone" for so long, but after the move to a new city where I knew nobody, buying a fixer-upper house, traveling for work, and being a slave to this project, I'm finally slowing down enough to get back on here.AZhitman wrote:Hey Chris - It's awesome having you back on board.
Mine do have a lower brace made out of 1/4 steel.Blown240sx wrote:Little Model of what I plan to make my mounts like. Almost the same as Chris's except I want to the lower brace to add a little more support with some 1//4 inch steal plate.
That's from ls1tech, right? I saw that and *drool*.cnichols wrote:Like I said in an earlier thread, there are so many ways to go about it, there are no measurements that are "right".
Here is the best transmission mount I've seen. It beats the pants off mine. Like Owen said, mine might fatigue/twist after awhile and is something I've kept in mind. I will get to it at some point...hopefully sooner than later. I have one just like it made out of stainless steel, but it's so effin heavy I don't want to use it, so I'll probably just weld some support to that one.
I kinda figured it was but it looks like the same brace setup the RB mounts use I figured if you placed the brace out futher ont he mount it would supply more forward upward support.cnichols wrote:Mine do have a lower brace made out of 1/4 steel.
It is further out. Instead of what you did to get it back to the subframe, I just used a steel spacer and a slightly longer bolt to keep the support bracket simple.Blown240sx wrote:
I kinda figured it was but it looks like the same brace setup the RB mounts use I figured if you placed the brace out futher ont he mount it would supply more forward upward support.