Post by
Darius »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/darius-u5470.html
Tue Oct 16, 2007 2:59 am
OK. Since Full-Race didn't give enough of a discount, LoveFab is taking too long to come out with something and will probably still be too expensive, Wasabi Garage does not communicate, Peak-performance is a marked up Wasabi Garage, and ebay stuff sucks a$$; I guess we are left with 6boost out of australia.
I originally found the manifold on the aussie forums, but when I e-mailed RaceSpec.com (who sells them), they never got back to me. Then REDLN started a thread that had the contact information of the guy that actually fabricates them. So, I e-mailed him last night and here is the response I got this morning. WOW! Talk about customer service!
Hi Matt, Well, where to begin. All manifolds are hand made to order. I do a variety of styles for all engines, so you can order an RB25 or 26 manifold with any flange from T25 up to T6, and anything in between, and also manifolds can be made divided or open, depending on the turbocharger/turbine you will be using it with. All my manifolds feature true merge collectors. A merge collector by design has ALL pipes meeting at a single point with the exact same angle machined from each, so in most arrangements this kinda looks like the pipes are in a circle. This behaves very differently to other forms of collectors, as when each pulse of energy passes the tip of the collector, it helps scavenge the gasses from the cylinder pulse directly following it. If the pipes don't meet at a point then they can't help scavenge the other cylinders as much. Don't get me wrong, the results may be negligable, but every bit counts right?? Now single entry style manifolds will have a 6 into 1 merge collector, and divided will have twin 3 into 1 merge collectors. I beleive there is no issues with the steering shaft location on LHD models, my manifold doesn't swing down too low, and the air con compressor is fine, my number 1 cylinder is very high. Manifolds are constructed from 3.6mm wall steam pipe, and I only use long radius sweeping bends for optimal flow. We have also done CFD testing and analysis, which has led to a redesign of our divided manifolds and small changes to 6into 1 manifolds. Manifolds are purge tig welded and feature laser cut 12mm head and turbo flanges. They are faced after welding and hand ported/polished, so the transition from head plate to runner is perfectly smooth, no sharp edges here;o) I offer a lifetime warranty against cracking, defect and failure, and in 640 manifolds I have only ever had 1 return from a circuit car that had a heat wrapped manifold, no bracing, and the full weight of the exhuast hanging from the manifold. We built a new manifold for free, braced it well, removed the heat wrap and used a heat sheild, and this car now has 2 years of weekend club use with no problems. I also have manifolds on some of australia's fastest drift, drag and circuit cars, and many street cars having done 30 000klm's of street driving with no problems. Lastly, my manifolds are close to equal length, but we have found that it makes little to no difference, even on 1100hp race engines, the key here is smooth flowing pipes with as few bends as possible, correct piping diameter, and the merge collector design. On some cars we have picked up as much as 700rpm of spool, and I am yet to back to back dyno against ANY manifold and made less than 5% more power and 200rpm faster spool. Normally the price is $1200 aus, but for a group purchase of 4 manifolds or more, I will do you them for $1000 each with studs, nuts and turbo gasket. Should anyone need different styles, the price will still be the same, they don't all need to be exactly the same. Also, in relation to stainless vs mild steel manifolds, Mild steel is by far a superior product, stainless by nature expands and contracts 3 times more than mild steel. This is like getting a piece of wire and bending it back and forth continually, soon it will break. I have built replacement manifolds for almost every brand of manifold on this earth, TRUST, HKS etc etc, as well as all the ebay stuff, and look at every single one, they don't crack ON the weld, they crack BESIDE the weld, where all this expanding and contracting focuses. I have several manifolds that have been in use for over 7 years daily driven, show me a stainless on thats ever done that without repair. Regards.................................Kyle. PS, Sorry for the lengthy email, just wanted to save a million back and forth emails with more questions and cover it all;o)
Needless to say, I'm in for one of these and am giving up my efforts on getting any of the others. I forgot to ask him about the wastegate dump position and flange/size.
Let me know if you're interested!