XD1 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 03, 2017 2:11 pmForgive me if these inquiries have been covered elsewhere, I really did search for them.
2014 SV AWD:
1) Full brightness at night―
I've more or less 'gotten over' my hatred of DRLs and not having the ability to turn them off, but I notice that when I turn the headlights on, the DRLs dim. Having upgraded to brighter headlights, I'd like the DRLs to remain at daytime brightness, because now the headlights make them look sort of washed out. Before I dig into it myself, I wanted to check and see if anyone else here had already performed this mod.
2) Switchback LED turn signals―
I found these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KMYF3/ ) Amber / White 'switchback' LED replacements for the front turn signals. They flash amber for the turn signal, but turn into additional white DRLs when the turn signal is not in use. This means changing from a 7444 socket to a 7443 socket, which looks to be pretty straightforward. However, tying into the existing DRL wiring brings up the above DRL brightness inquiry, I want them at full brightness all the time, not at the nighttime 'dim' setting when the headlights are on.
Any tips or insight would be greatly appreciated - again, I just wanted to check with the community before I roll up my sleeves, in case someone else here has already done the same or similar.
How'd it work out? I might be interested in doing this as wellXD1 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2017 3:56 amXD1 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 03, 2017 2:11 pmForgive me if these inquiries have been covered elsewhere, I really did search for them.
2014 SV AWD:
1) Full brightness at night―
I've more or less 'gotten over' my hatred of DRLs and not having the ability to turn them off, but I notice that when I turn the headlights on, the DRLs dim. Having upgraded to brighter headlights, I'd like the DRLs to remain at daytime brightness, because now the headlights make them look sort of washed out. Before I dig into it myself, I wanted to check and see if anyone else here had already performed this mod.
2) Switchback LED turn signals―
I found these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KMYF3/ ) Amber / White 'switchback' LED replacements for the front turn signals. They flash amber for the turn signal, but turn into additional white DRLs when the turn signal is not in use. This means changing from a 7444 socket to a 7443 socket, which looks to be pretty straightforward. However, tying into the existing DRL wiring brings up the above DRL brightness inquiry, I want them at full brightness all the time, not at the nighttime 'dim' setting when the headlights are on.
Any tips or insight would be greatly appreciated - again, I just wanted to check with the community before I roll up my sleeves, in case someone else here has already done the same or similar.
The reason I didn't post this here was because A: I don't see these specific topics mentioned in this thread, and B: no one has responded here since June. I guess if this is where it needs to be, then so be it. I suppose I will just work it out for myself.






did you try sticking on a volt meter to see if there is a current? Maybe its too low to power the lights or its not detecting the bulb right and you may need a resistor on the white light too...Ratbertpl wrote: ↑Fri Mar 16, 2018 11:54 amSo I have a 2018 Rogue S and I just upgraded ALL the bulbs to LEDs even added fog lights. I’m doing a lot of interstate driving about 800 miles a week so I wanted the lighting to clearly illuminate night driving and to make sure I’m fully visible to big rigs. Anyway one issue are the front turn signals. I got switchbacks and had them installed with resistors to deal with hyper flash. The place I bought them replaced them once due to a flicker. But one issue that has persisted I get no white light. So 2 different sets of bulbs with resistors no hyper flash but no white light any ideas on how to correct this?
Please refer to this https://forums.nicoclub.com/post6735512.html#p6735512RoombaGuy wrote: ↑Wed Dec 26, 2018 5:11 pmHi
2015 owner here with SL and OEM LED headlights.
Would like to put in LED fog lights - the OEM ones are very yellow as you all know.
This thread is very long ... so apologies for a question that is probably somewhere in here.
Can someone post which make/model of LED bulbs (the H11's of course) they used in their Rogue and are happy with?
Thank you
R.
We have an incredible SEARCH feature on this forum. Merged with existing thread. I believe there are a few brands listed in the posts above.codycat91 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:58 pmHey guy's thanks for the add. Im looking for some advice for my parent's 2019 Nissan Rogue. I got them a set of amazon LED's to replace their high-beam bulbs, but the ones I got with the fan in the back stick out too much and don't allow the rubber boot to fit back on. Is there a more slim bulb that you guys have used that will allow the rubber boots to fit on still? Thanks
(Note: I'm only asking for the high-beam bulbs. I'm very much aware of the negative affect of slapping in a set of LED's in place of the halogen low-beam bulbs with regard to light scatter and blinding oncoming drivers)
Thank you
phmichel wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:15 amI have a 2013 S and the stock Philips halogen bulbs were way too weak. I tried the Sylvania SilverStar and GE Nighthawk. They were much brighter but burned out after 6-12 months, so I decided to go to LED. I've tried several types of LED bulbs in the reflector housings. The CREE type LED's are bright enough but throw light everywhere and cause glare to oncoming traffic.
I found a set on Amazon that use the Philips LumiLed LED's. The Philips LED's are very small and very bright, and are positioned in the housing to mimic the location of the filament of the halogens. They have a distinct, sharp cutoff point like a halogen but are brighter and fill the light path in front of the vehicle. And I get no oncoming cars flashing me with these. The price is the same or less that higher end halogens. Here's the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL ... UTF8&psc=1
This isn't a bulb swap, the guts of the LED's are a non-serviceable assembly. They definitely aren't wired the same and the connectors don't match, so they won't be plug-and-play. However, the supply circuits in the IPDM should be identical and you won't need to worry about the "error feedback" wires for the LED's, since your IPDM won't be configured to look at them. It won't be easy, but if you get the mating connectors and WD's for both versions, you should be able to rearrange things to make them work.