2003 Pathfinder 1130 and 1131

[kristin517]

Hi Everyone,

A little over a year ago I posted about a check engine light problem I was having with my Pathfinder (topic609078.html). I never ended up getting that far into repairing it on my own because I ended up having my entire exhaust replaced, and that seemed to take care of the issue. The check engine light was no longer coming on, and I was able to pass inspection. Now, I don't know whether the work done on the exhaust caused the problem to go away for awhile or if it actually fixed it. In any case, the light is back on. Since that post in May 2016, I have been able to get help on here to fix my A/C on my own (topic615123.html), and I have invested in some much needed tools. I just bought an OBD scanner, and I have read through the manual regarding my new issue. The scanner I bought is here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z ... UTF8&psc=1). I also bought an adapter to hook it up to my android, although I believe there is more functionality by hooking it up to a laptop and using the Windows software it comes with (obdlink.com/software). This is just some background information to let you know what capability I have. I thought having the scanner would make my life so much easier, however I can't find any information on how to use it, or what some of the readings I am getting mean.

The new issue I have is code 1130. In addition, the vehicle goes into limp mode (fail safe mode) when I use anything more than 2500 RPM's. At first I had code 1131 AND 1130, but after receiving the scanner, I cleared the code, wishfully thinking this might solve the problem (yeah, not so much). I did run a diagnostic before I cleared the check engine light, although much of it doesn't make sense to me. Almost immediately though, the check engine light came back on, and the limp mode never went away. I have both before and after diagnostic reports that I can show anyone interested in seeing them but I can't figure out how to upload them onto here. The 1131 hasn't come back as of yet.

So, I go to the manual and start to try to follow the diagnostic procedure for this code, and this is where I become lost. I have a multimeter and I am trying to follow the instructions on pg EC-520, but perhaps I am not testing the correct thing? Am I correct in thinking the voltage that I get should be equal to my battery voltage?

Another question I have is why the vehicle is going into fail safe mode when the codes listed are not ones (according to the manual) that should produce this mode?

Anyway, any direction would be helpful and greatly appreciated. Let me know if there's a way to upload documents onto here, and if people need further information. I know I was kind of all over the place, but I have spent so much time reading the manual, reading forum posts, and trying to do diagnostics myself but I am no further ahead than I was a couple of weeks ago.

Kristin

[04pathse]

Well the p1130 code should be a fairly easy fix...

p1130-swirl-control-valve-solenoid-valve-t578113.html

[atraudes]

And P1131 looks to be in a similar vein, so that SCV is an excellent target

losing-power-code-p1131-t580302.html

[kristin517]

Thanks for the responses. I did read through that thread (p1130-swirl-control-valve-solenoid-valve-t578113.html) but I was trying to go by the manual by starting with what and where they say to start (naive thinking?;-)

So do you think I should just go ahead and replace the swirl control valve without testing anything else? Does anyone know what voltage I am looking for when the manual says, "Check voltage between swirl control valve control solenoid valve terminal 1 and ground"? I also read the other thread that atraudes referenced, but I was wondering why these codes are not listed in the manual as ones that will put the vehicle into fail safe mode. Just wondered if I was looking at further issues after I deal with 1130/1131.

[PathyPop]

My son has the same year as yours and the prior, original, owner saved all the receipts. I noticed the 1131 code in the receipts and they replaced the swirl control valve along with the "tank assembly-pressure" part (connected to the SC Valve). Both parts were about $100 each at the dealer. I'm not into buying unneeded parts so I'd suggest looking for a vacuum leak first. Do a visual and move the hoses a little and listen for change while the engine is running, then try spraying a little throttle body cleaner on the SC Valve, etc while the engine is running and see if the rpm changes. Maybe not much help, but don't go to the dealer, according to the receipt they charged $437 labor for the few minutes it would take to change out these parts.

[kristin517]

Thanks PathyPop for your valuable input. I am happy to say that yesterday afternoon I took apart the swirl control valve, unplugged some of the surrounding connections, blew out and checked for leaks on surrounding hoses, and put it all back together. After clearing the code, the light went off and no more fail safe mode. Crossing my fingers that it stays cleared. I drove it about 40 miles so far, and it has not returned. If it does, I am fairly certain that I will need to replace that valve. Just need to hurry up and get to inspection on Monday so that I can get my sticker in case it does return. Another happy ending by learning to do this stuff on my own (or at least to give it a try). Love this forum, and all who contribute!

BTW, I forgot to mention that prior to doing this research about the problem on my own, I was persuaded by my boyfriend to take the vehicle into a Nissan Dealer for a "diagnostic" (against my better judgement). 129 dollars later, they were telling me I needed a new engine control module - couldn't even tell me why or what code(s) it was due to. Actually, when the guy called me, he told me that it needs so much work that he just recommended a new vehicle. I do need to do some maintenance (new tires, tune up, need to have the sway bar looked at as it is loose) but I love this car and was insulted and automatically turned off when he said that.

[PathyPop]

129 dollars later, they were telling me I needed a new engine control module - couldn't even tell me why or what code(s) it was due to. Actually, when the guy called me, he told me that it needs so much work that he just recommended a new vehicle.

That's just wrong. Needing a new "ECM" seems to be one of their favorites. It's expensive, hard for the owner to understand, easy to fix, no substitute available, but probably not the problem. It is like the CPU in your computer, it rarely ever fails. The prior owner of ours, a single female, had stacks of receipts for high priced work that either didn't need to be done, or could have been done for much less.

Stay away from the dealer. The parts/service department make most of the profits with commissions and bonuses paid so the incentive is to run up the bill. Use Yelp (or similar) to find a good, reasonable, independent shop that has more than 4 stars rating. Look at the Yelp reviews of just about any dealer and they often don't exceed 3 stars. Even better, tackle the smaller issues yourself as you have.

[kristin517]

Okay, so I really didn't want to have to come back on here to report anything other than more good news, but unfortunately the 1130 code is back, and so is the fail safe/limp mode intermittently. I am looking for some real help here:

1. I am wondering if one even has anything to do with the other (the codes and the fail safe mode). I don't believe that the 1130/1131 would be making the vehicle go into that mode, so do I really have two problems on my hands here?

2. I was going to go ahead and order a new swirl control valve, but tonight my boyfriend helped me run a wire from the car battery to the two terminals of the valve as suggested here (forums.nicoclub.com/swirl-control-solenoid-valve-circuit-malfunction-t603748.html), and I did hear clicking when we did it. So, am I to assume that the problem is not the solenoid valve or could it still be that even though it appears to be "clicking"?

3. Does anyone know if that trick will work with the other valve (VIAS control solenoid valve)? So if I apply voltage to that, can I check if it is working?

4. I stopped by a dealership today just to ask a question about the part that PathyPop mentioned had been changed on his ("tank assembly-pressure"). I wanted to know what that included because the picture associated with the part is confusing as it looks like the swirl control valve is included. The guy told me it is not, but couldn't really explain about the picture. He said that he believed it only included that black little box that the valve plugs into, and when I asked him if I might need it he said he hadn't heard of one needing to be replaced unless it it was cracked/damaged. Anyone know anything about this part and why it might need to be replaced? Part # is 22370-4W010.

5. Any other thoughts on what else I might look for to solve this problem(s)?

Thanks in advance!

[04pathse]

Well from what I have read a p1130 code can cause the vehicle to go into "limp mode".

I think you should go ahead and replace the swirl control solenoid valve, but you might want to wait a little and see if anyone else
chimes in on this...

Pretty sure this is the valve you need for your 2003, you can take your chances with a used one for $20 or buy new for around $100 or so.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... =1&_sop=15

[atraudes]

The clicking isn't a guarantee that it's working properly, but it's a good sign. No click would be a definitive sign that it's gone. It's also possible a vacuum leak is the problem which wouldn't be discovered with that test. I think the tank that PathyPop was referring to is the cylindrical tank mounted on the left side of the air cleaner (circled in red below). The part number you gave looks to be related to the EVAP system. It's possible it's related, but I don't think so.



You may still have two problems on your hand, but focus on what you have evidence for first. Based on the experiences of other people here I'd personally feel comfortable replacing it, but I can understand not wanting to since there's no absolute evidence it's bad yet. You can try a used one, but you of course run the risk it has the same problem. On the other hand, if that's the case most eBay vendors are ok with returns.

[kristin517]

OK, so I figured that I would post a pic of the parts I am talking about here so that there's no more confusion.

1. The part circled in red is the solenoid control valve in question that I was able to get the clicking noise from by applying voltage.

2. The one circled in blue is the one I believe PathyPop was referring to on his. The reason I think it's this one is because of the name that was listed on his invoice ("tank assembly pressure"). When you look that up as a part associated with my vehicle it comes up with this: www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-ta ... B002,22370. The diagram shows it exactly where the part that I circled in blue is on my vehicle.

3. The part circled in green is the VIAS control solenoid valve, which I was wondered if that could be the problem? The manual does not give any instructions for testing it in the diagnostic procedures for codes 1130/1131, but it does reference it in the pictures shown.

4. The diagnostic procedure for these codes does have another test, which I was going to try to do tomorrow (pg. 521). It involves applying the voltage to the swirl control valve and then checking for the existence of "vacuum" coming from the vacuum hose connected to the power valve actuator. If there's no vacuum, then it says to replace the intake manifold collector assembly. Does anyone know what that is? I wish they would use names in the manual that are what you need to search for when you try to get the part. In some cases, they are completely different.

[PathyPop]

Just got back from a trip, are you up and running?

Yes, those are the parts that were replaced per the invoice, that you circled in red and blue. I really doubt they both went bad, more so that the dealer is inclined to somehow find another adjacent part to replace to run up the bill.

See if you have a "pick your part" or the like near you. I doubt they'd charge more than a few bucks for these parts and you can pick up a few others you might need.