I took it to Pepboys and the lady said "P1140". Thus my thread on P1140 elsewhere. I got my reader back and it was P1130, Swirl Control Valve. Glad I didn't buy the Cam Position Sensors.

This valve sits right up on top of the engine but some reading told me that it is sensitive to a lot of inputs. I had just replaced the spark plugs and the idling improved greatly and I thought maybe it just needed to remap to the new idle conditions. I reset the code but it came back in about 150 miles later.

Next some reading told me to blow out the vacuum lines with air--they get clogged up. I thought that was very unlikely but free so I pulled the first one off and tried to blow through it with my mouth and was greatly surprised. No flow. Same with the 2nd long one. The short ones weren't so bad. I blew them out and put them back on and so far 300+ miles, no SES light, and gas mileage the first tankful seems to be 2-3 mpg improved.

I'll post further updates if anything changes but blowing out the vacuum lines is free and if it really gets you 2 mpg, everyone should do it whether they have the code or not.

--Jerry

Well, SES came back in 400 miles later. Still running great. Anybody have experience with this code? --Jerry

Not much interest in this code but I'll post my progress for the next one who has the problem. I took the air intake back off and double checked for hoses off and air leaks. Looks like everything is ok. SES comes back on 100 to 400 miles after reset. Engine continues to run great.

Reading around the internet I found others with similar symptoms who fixed it by replacing the swirl control valve solenoid. Funny that the problem always seems to occur after removing the air intake piping. One other owner had the problem occur after removing the air piping for spark plug replacement (like I did). Another owner got the code after removing the airbox to replace the headlamp.

So I just ordered the solenoid valve online. Part number 14596-1P101. (shown on parts diagrams at 14596U). Just under $100 shipped.

New swirl control valve solenoid valve installed (green solenoid with green connector):



Old swirl control valve solenoid with new packaging showing the part number:



Just replaced, will post in a week or so if the code stays clear. I'm pretty confident.

--Jerry

OK. It has been about a week and over a tank of gas. No new SES light. Engine running like new, I'm going to declare it good (knock on wood--and it's nice to have a bunch of wood trim in the cab to knock on every time I talk about it).

So here are a few closing thought for others who get this code:

1. Blowing the lines out as I've read elsewhere is a good thing to do, it is free and it might fix it. Most likely code will come back in a few days.
2. My new solenoid and my old solenoid both have resistances in the mid 30's of ohms. I'm pretty sure the solenoid didn't fail electrically. Given that, the likely cause of failure is the plunger getting gunked up and not moving. If I were doing it again, I'd try another free fix before I bought a new one. I would try flushing the old one with WD-40, kerosene, or other light hydrocarbon to remove the gunk and get the piston free.
3. I read several horror stories of people taking it to the dealer and they replaced hundreds of $ of parts only to have the code come back 2 days later. I think that may be because the factory manual lists several other things that can cause the problem besides the solenoid valve. Frankly, the manual is confusing. If the only code you have is the P1130, then the likely cause of the problem is just as the code reader says, the "Swirl control valve solenoid valve" which is the part I have listed above. I found 2 other instances where replacing that part permanently cleared the code, my case makes 3.
4. The swirl control valves (there are 6 of them) improve performance at low RPMs. When it isn't working, the engine still runs smoothly and idles well. However, now that I've fixed it I think I can tell that it has more pep at low RPMs and since I do a lot of driving at low RPMs (40 to 60 mph) I see better gas mileage.

Best of luck to all of you home mechanics. I'm happy that I fixed mine first time for less than $100 because I was able to do a lot of internet research on forum's like this one.

--Jerry

Hey Jerry,
I have the same exact problem that you had, if I keep the engine below 3000 RPM everything is fine.. it even idles fine.. the second I hit 3000 RPM the engine loses power and drops to 1000 RPM and bounces back and forth between 3K and 1K.

I don't usually work on cars but I've done plenty of stereos, alarms, navigation systems, etc.. and I’m good with following directions, so if the part is accessible without a lift I'm pretty sure I can fix it myself. I just bought a Haynes guide for my car (2004 Pathfinder SE) and noticed no mention of the swirl control valve solenoid or the control valve. Where exactly is the control valve located? I'm going to take my car apart tonight and see if I can blow out the vacuum lines and if that doesn't work, go ahead and order the part from the dealer.

What make/model is your car? I'm wondering if your part# is what I need for my 2004 Pathy..
Thanks!
-Keith

Mine is a QX4 2003, probably pretty identical to yours. But I never had any RPM changes. Seemed to run fine except when I got it fixed I could tell it was idling stronger. Do you have the P1130 code? --Jerry

PS. I'm now several thousand miles later with no more codes.

I have p1131, not 1130. I replaced the valve tonight along with the vacuum lines just to be safe but it didn't fix the code or the loss of power at 3000 Rpms

Well, I checked out P1131 and it is described pretty much the same as P1130, swirl control valve solenoid.

When you replaced the hoses did you use dealer hoses? If so, they have a check valve in them. Make sure you get the check valve in the right direction. They also have a mark on the outside which should line up with the retention brackets that you push the hoses into. Look at the other hoses running through the bracket and you'll see the lines on the hoses.

If you put a hose on backwards, it won't flow. Make sure you can blow through it in the direction of flow.

--Jerry

I bought plain 'ol hoses from Advance Auto, but I did use the dealer's hoses first and didn't change the direction on them since I only removed them off the SCV and not the opposite ends. I wonder if it's possible that I got a bad part? I didn't bother clearing the code yet, that shouldn't matter right? I figured the resolving of the symptom is the clear indicator that I fixed it.

Are there any other parts that if failed would magically be symptomatic at exactly 3000RPM only when not idle? If I hit the gas in park/neutral no problem.. It's only when in drive.

Makes me wonder if the process of moving stuff around "loosens" buildup in the vacuum lines that then gets sucked into the swirl valve creating the mayhem.

I.E. the clog might be stuck at bend in the tubing and in the process of moving parts that section moves, releasing it's hold.

Anyone considering engine repair might consider clearing the lines first before doing any kind of work that might disturb the vacuum lines.

Ok, I feel like an idiot... So it winds up replacing the Swirl Control Valve Solenoid Valve actually fixed the problem after all! The reason I didn't realize this is I didn't clear the code, which was intentional on my part since I wanted the code to still be there in case my repair didn't work so the shop could still see it if necessary. I brought it to the shop, they cleared the code, and everything started working perfectly. They told me that this code triggered a limp mode on the car so even though I replaced the bad part, it wouldn't allow me to go over 3000 RPM until I cleared the code out. Unfortunately this was an $85 mistake on my part.. They had a computer that triggered the SCV and showed me it was now working.. the light is now off and the car is humming along perfectly. Lesson learned.
-Keith

I'm glad to hear it was something simple, too bad you had to pay for the diagnostics but at least that damn orange light is gone now!

Question for Carlsbad or who ever else that has replaced the selonoid themselves.

1) where did you order the part from, local Nissan dealership? Part number 14596-1P101
2) any thing particular to look out for or keep in mind when removing the old one?
3) looking at the part it seems to be unscrewed from behind the mount?

seems like replacing it is pretty straight forward and a dummy like me can do it but just want to double check. appreciate the response.


thanks

I believe I got it at nissan parts zone:
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/componen ... 287_4.html

When replacing it be careful not to break the vacuum chamber. I remember thinking that would be possible and that would more than double the cost of repair. You'll have to remove a mounting bolt and then IIRC, you loosen a couple of more bolts. Don't be afraid to take things loose to get to it and it is pretty straightforward. Comes apart easily so if it doesn't seem loose, you probably have another bolt or 2.

Yes, that one mounting lug is behind the solenoid valve in the photo.

Best of luck,
Jerry

Thanks to those who have put the input for this concern. I just solved the problem for my 2004 nissan skyline 250gt. I replaced the solenoid...problem solved.

Now i need to solve another problem that i live for more than 1 year. Rattling sound in the engine when rev between 1.8 to 2.2k rpm. At the moment the engine sounds like a diesel engine.

If you experince this problem...appreciate if you can share for the solution. Tq.

seakr1 wrote:Thanks to those who have put the input for this concern. I just solved the problem for my 2004 nissan skyline 250gt. I replaced the solenoid...problem solved.

Now i need to solve another problem that i live for more than 1 year. Rattling sound in the engine when rev between 1.8 to 2.2k rpm. At the moment the engine sounds like a diesel engine.

If you experince this problem...appreciate if you can share for the solution. Tq.

What was the model number for the valve for your 2004 v35? Mine just started throwing the code..

After replacing my Cam Timing Sensors to get rid of my 0011 and 0021 codes, I still had the 1130 left to fix, followed your recommendation of checking the coolant, that was fine, then blew out the lines, hooked it back up, then took it for a test drive after turning off the SES light, and it ran perfect. I took it offroad a little bit then checked it at higher revs on the highway and no light came back. Great simple process carlsbad

Just realized i read the thing about the coolant in another thread, but this one was a million times easier to follow. Thanks.

Going to replace the Swirl valve as I am getting the same code for it. I opened it to see if it could be something cleanable but it fell apart in my hand and got no clue what goes where. So bought one from the dealer for about 100 bucks or so and will get it tomorrow. When you say blow out the hoses and lines, what hoses/lines?

http://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4NlLuQ ... sp=sharing
Need help with resolving this P1130.
Can someone please explain if I understand this FSM diagram correctly?
I am trying to understand the socket diagram from FSM.

Can someone please confirm if socket diagram matches with terminal number from the actual picture?
For future reference, does a box with "X" from indicate the nipples on the socket?

I am not getting any voltage reading by connecting it such a away.

Thanks in advance.

FYI, I also got the Service Engine Soon (SES) light, and took it to Advance Auto to read and go the P1131 code. I did some research and am very thankful to all those who have posted about their issues and how they resolved them, as I was able to do some troubleshooting and finally fix the issue by purchasing a new Swirl Control Valve Solenoid... There were some things I learned along the way that I'd like to share:

1. Mine is a 2003 Pathfinder, and the SCV Solenoid diagram is somewhat different from the prior year models - the 2003 also had that black vaccuum box that others don't; the FSM specific to the 2003 model has the correct diagram. Mine is just like the pictures that Carlsbad posted above, in 2013

2. the FSM for the 2003 model has specific instructions for the P1131 code, whereas prior models don't even list the P1131 code and instead deal with the SCV Solenoid under the P1130 code - so make sure you're using the manual specific to your model year

3. because the 2003 model has that black vaccuum box, the part number for the replacement SCV Solenoid is specific - in my case, it's part number 14956-1P101, which I odered for just under $100 plus shipping from https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com It's the solenoid with the green plastic, NOT the brown one.

4. I had tried blowing out the hoses and resetting the code, but it just kept coming back. You can re-set the code by using a code reader, or just by disconnecting your battery for 24 hours - that's what I did.

5. Actually replacing the green SCV Solenoid is a piece of cake: start by loosening all the hoses while it's still attached, and spring the nut on the back of the solenoid with a bit of WD40; then loosen both 10mm bolts holding the black vaccuum box so you can tilt it up and get to the nut on the back of the old solenoid; remove the nut, put in the new solenoid, connect hoses and bolt the vaccuum box back in

6. Don't forget to re-set the SES light

Thanks to all you who have posted before me!

Nico G

Thank you all for posting this, I was able to follow your directions and fix my 2004 Pathfinder that had code P1131, that my mechanic didn't want to be bothered with. I used the part number you listed and all my codes are now cleared and I can get my inspection tomorrow. Thank you all again!!!!!
Jessica

Hello everyone,

After reading through and analyzing, I realized my 2004 Pathfinder has the same problem. I took it to Autozone and they ran a scan. I got the same code. After ordering and installing the new swirl control valve I still had the same issue. Problems starting and once I got it to start, I had the same problem accelerating. I blew out the pipes and all. Any guesses what I may have done wrong here? Or why the problem remains?

JRempel wrote: ↑

Sat May 30, 2015 1:20 pm

After replacing my Cam Timing Sensors to get rid of my 0011 and 0021 codes, I still had the 1130 left to fix, followed your recommendation of checking the coolant, that was fine, then blew out the lines, hooked it back up, then took it for a test drive after turning off the SES light, and it ran perfect. I took it offroad a little bit then checked it at higher revs on the highway and no light came back. Great simple process carlsbad

Howdy. Great you got yours fixed! Anyhoo, I have just recently had my Hardbody start cutting out at about 1800 RPM and back on iver 2000Rpm. Im showing a P1130 and was curious as to which solenoid you replaced. There are 6 of them... A woird to the dumb would be awesome.

Thanks,
Barn

jessicasminifarm wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:40 pm

Thank you all for posting this, I was able to follow your directions and fix my 2004 Pathfinder that had code P1131, that my mechanic didn't want to be bothered with. I used the part number you listed and all my codes are now cleared and I can get my inspection tomorrow. Thank you all again!!!!!
Jessica

Howdy... I was wondering which solenoid you replaced. I too have a p1130 code after washing my motor at the car wash. Any comments would be nice.

thanks,
barn

Please advise what to check. I have P1130 on infiniti I30 2001. The solenoid seems to work. I took it out and put a 12 V across the terminals and heard the click and the flow stopped when I tried to blow air through the solenoid.

a) Should I check the hoses next?

How do I test the harness?

the FSM indicates a whole set of things to check.

Any videos that I can look up?

Thanks,
Mallik