Help me pick a T3 for Drag racing

[GODCHSR]

I need some help picking a T3 turbo. Some things I would like to keep in mind:*Need to produce around 450 RWHP*Something good for drag.

Is the GT35R a good choice?

[WDRacing]

Yup, GT35R would be a good choice

[GODCHSR]

Sweet!

The tuning all takin care of. I already bought the AEM EMS, just need injectors and new turbo.

I'm shooting for 450rwhp and high tens... 10.99 at least. yikes... lol

[WDRacing]

Totally doable

[GTR PrYdE]

The 35r is really a 550+whp turbo, but for a drag car that wouldn't really matter I guess?

For about the same price I'd go with Precisions billet 6262 w/ .63 ar

Faster spool than the 35r and still 600whp capable

[GODCHSR]

The price about right too...I'll not be heading into that high of a power level... In fact I almost prefer to have the fastest spooling turbo that will max out around 500whp

[GTR PrYdE]

Look into Borg Warner's S256 or S258

They should max around 500whp

[WDRacing]

Hmm...sub 500 turbo selection is different. I forgot you want to stay with a stock block.

If you use a large external wastegate then you can probably even run a T3/TO4E in .63AR. That will get you to 500 and on the cheap to. Hell, you may even be able to use the .48AR so long as the manifold flows well and the external gate is 50mm. That would allow for easy boost build up on the line for launch and allow for the daily driver aspect to remain truly fun.

If you need to go a little faster, plumb in a 50jet pre fmic and you'll supercool the intake air charge AND gain some hp from the nitrous itself.

All on the cheap.

I have a DIY budget...dunno what you're working with.

We could have a contest though if you want. Fastest stock block in the 1320 by next summer wins? I'll be using old school stuff like the MSD BTM and sub injection You can use the EMS and we'll compare the two setups when we're finished. Could actually make a cool write-up. Mine being the bare bones theory with no working budget to speak of and yours spending a tad more money and doing things more professionally.

What speed requires a cage? IIRC it's anything faster then 10.99 I'm not doing a cage

[GODCHSR]

Hmm...sub 500 turbo selection is different. I forgot you want to stay with a stock block.

If you use a large external wastegate then you can probably even run a T3/TO4E in .63AR. That will get you to 500 and on the cheap to. Hell, you may even be able to use the .48AR so long as the manifold flows well and the external gate is 50mm. That would allow for easy boost build up on the line for launch and allow for the daily driver aspect to remain truly fun.

If you need to go a little faster, plumb in a 50jet pre fmic and you'll supercool the intake air charge AND gain some hp from the nitrous itself.

All on the cheap.

I have a DIY budget...dunno what you're working with.

We could have a contest though if you want. Fastest stock block in the 1320 by next summer wins? I'll be using old school stuff like the MSD BTM and sub injection You can use the EMS and we'll compare the two setups when we're finished. Could actually make a cool write-up. Mine being the bare bones theory with no working budget to speak of and yours spending a tad more money and doing things more professionally.

What speed requires a cage? IIRC it's anything faster then 10.99 I'm not doing a cage

I'm on a mild budget... I'm not rich so I constantly save money to buy things worth my time.

The EMS was something I always knew I would need after I cheaped on a tuning for my Z32TT and had rod knock within a couple days.

OK... I am game for this but before I dedicate::: What is the 1320? Some kind of 240sx gathering?

[GODCHSR]

Rule #1

Only OEM components in the block.

EVERYTHING... bearings, head gasket, rods, pistons, cams, etc... EVERYTHING

Rule #2 (If I am gonna play)

Must be a street legal car (minus California)

Headlights, wipers, cats, etc...

You got anything to add? I guarantee you I will be in the low 11s once the turbo gets in. Getting everything out of the car to run a 10 and a good 10 at that, is going to take a lot of effort.

lol This is gonna be a blast! I love things that motivate.

[Kalypso]

( ...HOLSET H1C )

[WDRacing]

Rule #1

Only OEM components in the block.

EVERYTHING... bearings, head gasket, rods, pistons, cams, etc... EVERYTHING

Rule #2 (If I am gonna play)

Must be a street legal car (minus California)

Headlights, wipers, cats, etc...

You got anything to add? I guarantee you I will be in the low 11s once the turbo gets in. Getting everything out of the car to run a 10 and a good 10 at that, is going to take a lot of effort.

lol This is gonna be a blast! I love things that motivate.

My motor is already back together...only thing new are main bearings, oil pump, water pump. Everything else has over 100k on the clock.

This car is going to be my daily driver so it will be registered and legal.

The 1320 comment stands for how many feet are in the 1/4 mile Sure you're up for this

Couple questions, are we allowed to run slicks at the track or are we limiting it to drag radials?

What about the head, can I use different cams? If no, then you can't use ANY different cam setup, not even swapping factory cams around.

[GODCHSR]

LOL... ok ok... I thought you were talking about a 1320 convention or something where it would becomes a heads up day at the track.

If it is under the valve cover, over the oil pan, inside the block or inside the inside it should remain in a factory configuration.

No porting, polishing etc...Honing is allowed for new rings but boring is not (requires larger pistons).

Tires would be my only issue to street legality. I think slicks should be legal in this. Mostly because varying states allow for different tires anyway.

You know what my biggest problem is right now that this is a REAL competition... I have no idea if I'm gonna be able to use a KA transmission or not... I might just use a VG or VQ transmission instead. hmmm

[GODCHSR]

Oh and my motor has 150k on it right now. My first runs will be with that motor. I'm gonna have a standby to swap out if it blows.

[WDRacing]

Ok, this sounds like a great idea. I'm going to make a new thread today and list the rules that we come up with, all of which are subject to change/negotiation. Rules I would like are...

If the pistons are stock, then an upsize is totally acceptable. Any power difference gained becomes nullified by adding forced induction. But I'm using stock everything on a 100k+ motor so. I just want the option just incase I need it.

Drag radials only.

Factory 240SX transmission.

Stock head/cams/intake. Modifications can be made to the stock intake manifold; removal of EGR/PCV/Vac etc and the addition of vacuum and or sub injection. Basically anything required for the addition of a subsystem like Nitrous or engine management. I'll be using a diy alky injection system and a bunch of other crap for monitoring temps/pressures etc. No porting allowed, just the addition or subtraction of items.

We have to be the drivers.

Sound good?

WD

[GODCHSR]

It all sounds good to me...Except I am not expert enough to comment on the strength of the stock ka transmission.

I certainly don't want to spend $2000 building a transmission that can handle this level of power.

So if the stock KA can not (without building) handle a 450 rwtq launch on drag raidals then we should reconsider tha.

Otherwise, everything else sounds good.-----------------The only other issue is verification... videos, legit track, recorded times etc...

[WDRacing]

The KA trans is beefy enough with good lube to handle 450. I'm not saying you can drop the clutch on a super sticky track with big radials and not F something up, but then again, thats all racing isn't it!!!

No rules as far as tracks and crap, just run the 1/4 between now and next summer and your best time on video will stand. Sound good?

I'm honest to admit if I'm slower then you. I'm only using a T3 super 60, so it'll be screaming beyond it's efficiency range...lol. I'd love to dent the 10's, but I'll settle for fun as hell.

Granted, I'm going to talk mad smack all winter

My official working budget is $970. Granted, I have lots of parts on hand already...but I need a new turbo and a few things.

Should be fun. Then again...if you lose after spending all that money

[GODCHSR]

The KA trans is beefy enough with good lube to handle 450. I'm not saying you can drop the clutch on a super sticky track with big radials and not F something up, but then again, thats all racing isn't it!!!

No rules as far as tracks and crap, just run the 1/4 between now and next summer and your best time on video will stand. Sound good?

I'm honest to admit if I'm slower then you. I'm only using a T3 super 60, so it'll be screaming beyond it's efficiency range...lol. I'd love to dent the 10's, but I'll settle for fun as hell.

Granted, I'm going to talk mad smack all winter

My official working budget is $970. Granted, I have lots of parts on hand already...but I need a new turbo and a few things.

Should be fun. Then again...if you lose after spending all that money

$970 a month??? year???

My budget is not what you'd think it took me forever to pay for that EMS.

I think I will make my first run by the end of October but that would likely be a not so great run unless I hit the lottery from now till then. lol

I'm actually not far from KAT now... Just need the turbo, piping, clutch and injectors...

It could get interesting though if I convince my wife to give me the $8000 tax credit we get in a few weeks. LOL not likely but I'd be in the 10s by Winter if I had that money.

[WDRacing]

I had $1000 for the total budget and already spent some. I have $970...

Better beat me

[GODCHSR]

I had $1000 for the total budget and already spent some. I have $970...

Better beat me

Ummm yeah... I better not get my butt kicked.

Just picked up another part for the build just 10 minutes ago!

Game on...



AEM Serial gauge which I'll be using with a wideband O2



AEM MAP sensor, GM intake temp sensor, and GM boost control solenoid(Did someone say electronic boost control.?.?.?

And my latest purchase 10 minutes ago... XTD 11 lb flywheel

[GTR PrYdE]

Hmm... Stock block and hardcore drag racing don't go well, but go for it!

11's would be a better goal, and I'd be down for that- I want to push the stock block- on E85 though

[GODCHSR]

I know what you mean GTR...

My personal 'goal' is to be the fastest recorded stock block (long block) in the 1/4 mile.

Since I have no idea what that would be this has turned into a competition of sorts, with a growing list of regulations. Stock transmission etc...

Rather than people just building big (which is also cool) this could give the KA some new life if people knew the potential they have within the vehicle from the get go.

Honestly I might barely get into the low 11s but even that is pretty impressive for a car that's almost 15 years old with stock engine and transmission!

[WDRacing]

Once you're making over 400whp it's ALL about putting it down and keeping it down. Making power is the easy part. Not breaking things and getting down the track is the hard part.

Someone is going to have to browse the .Org and see what they have for recorded stock block times.

Something you should try getting is the GTECH. I know they sound gay, but I've had one since like...99. The 1/4 mile times and the 60' times have never been more then .5 seconds off from the track. This was used AT the track just to see how close it was. I've been using it ever since on a straight stretch of road. Lets me know where I'm at without having to go to the track.

[GODCHSR]

I have a 'friend' with an SRT4 using a Gtech. It seems like a gimmick but he's running constant 12s on a stock block, so who am I to argue.

[240sxvaj]

Holset HX35=WIN!

[GODCHSR]

Are they all Twin Scroll?

[WDRacing]

No...

Unless they are used, they aren't a good deal.

*EDIT*

If Nate were here he could argue with me

[motoman399]

watching this.. it looks fun. wish i could join but im a broke a**. lol

[neverlift]

just want to comment on the gtech, I have had one since early 00 and used it for a short time, it was fairly accurate claiming I ran mid 15~low16 wiht a stock sohc and bolt ons... about right.

also are you guys limiting to stock head bolts or is arp studs legal, and if so do they have to be the 10mm or can you go to the 11mm?

also going to keep an eye out!

[WDRacing]

I see no issues with head studs, but the internals need to stay stock. I'm using the stock HG