How I "tuned" my oil system was leave off the drain hose from the pump but the feed line was complete with the needle valve closed. I started the motor and slowly opened the needle valve and monitored oil flow out of the turbo. I had the oil drain going into a 2 liter pop bottle. It didn't take opening the valve very far to get a steady flow at idle. Oil pressure is pretty low at idle and I wanted to set it up to have low but steady flow at idle. At cruise I have about 70-80 PSI of oil pressure so there is much more oil feeding the turbo when the RPMs are up. I have never noticed any smoke from oil in the turbo and flow is always good when I have checked it (which I do often).

EDIT: I just remembered something about how STS does their scavenge pumps. I can't confirm this but it looks like they use a Hobbs pressure switch to activate a warning light or something if the pump fails. The Hobbs switch is just before the oil pump in all their installs. If the pump stops the pressure in the line between the pump and turbo should go up rapidly. I think I will add one of these

Here's a pump that would work too from Summit Racing, it's a tranny/diff oil cooler pump.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

Modified by qsiguy at 10:15 AM 6/6/2008

Thanks for the information. So the needle valve is on the turbo's oil inlet side and is used as the restrictor. I must've misunderstood that it was on the return side and hence my original question. Sorry for the confusion.

So you ended up teeing off of the sandwitch plate versus the stock oil pressure sending unit location?

Please advise and thanks again for all the help.....

Nick.

Here's a shot of the pressure sending unit and needle valve and the oil filter sandwich plate.

Awesome on the ostrich2 as well. Let me know how it works out - I'm waiting until after father's day before I go buying anything just in case I get something from the kids.

Thanks again.

Nick.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

Nick, It was fun, tiring, but fun. got home about 6:30 am, flying about 95. I was up 26 hours in the end, but all worthwhile.

I am very happy with the mounts, and sure that even with what you are throwing at it, (Guys, to see the compressors on these turbo's in hand, DAMN) I am sure that the mounts are not going to be a problem. Wish I had brought a small grinder (1 1/2") to get it really cleaned up in the small areas. But oh well, I can see how much pride you take in that beautiful car, and am sure you will enjoy the time spent.

On the car- WOW. the hood has never been off the car- factory seal on mounts. very clean, and sweet exhaust tips. rims n tires, are a really nice choice.

Garage- Very uncomfortable, horrible working, conditions, Yeah right. Funny I am in there grinding away at 2 am, windows open, a/c on, relaxing, standing looking at the mounts at eye height. Agh to be so lucky...
and most of all, on having a wife, who is ok with all this, and buys you that lift, and that was before you blew the motor. Lucky, and the girls of course, adorable. Thanx again, and well, sorry my son is a handful.

This is going to be a very wicked car. I can't wait to take it for a spin.

Thanx again, for the fun, and I will be in touch later in weekend. Craig

Thanks again brother - I'm glad you made it home safe; and thank you for the compliments. No worries on the welds, I'll clean everything up before I spray the cross-member and take some photos.

I liked your son as well - definitely full of energy! BTW, when it's all done you can come down and take her for a spin - bring a change of underwear I've got a feeling that I'm going to have traction issues when it's all said and done, but hey that's just another challenge to overcome - maybe some 60-80 treadwear tires will begin to help over the 220s that I've got on there now.....

Thanks again for the awesome work - and it was nice to finally meet you in person....

Nick.

Thanks a bunch for locating the part for me.

Nick.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

My friend is coming over tomorrow so we can weld some brackets to mount the turbos in the nose and also modify the P/S bracket to get the VH P/S pump situated. My oilpan should be arriving from Craig's tomorrow so I'll pull the motor sometime on Friday to put it in, swap the mazworx adapter, clean up and paint the crossmember (I'll post PICs of this) and then put everything back together again.

I also located some K&N filters that stand about 4.5 inches from flange to tip with 4" diameter inlets. This scenario allows the turbos to be mounted in the nose and the front of the filters to clear the bumper support. Once we get the brackets fabbed, I can finally flatbed the car over to the exhaust place to have the manifolds, etc. TIG'd up and all the cross-connects to the factory exhaust system completed.

I'll post some pictures once we have the turbos mounted up, and then of the manifolds once they're done.

Nick.

Anyway after my little spending spree I think I better go to bed before I get myself in trouble with my wife

Nick.

You have a long way to go. Save the pennies and don't let the ol lady know what's goin down in the air conditioned man room.

Anyway, I had budgeted $11K to get me through to the end of phase 2b. With Phase 1 being around $4K, Phase 2A adding another $3K, and Phase 2B adding another $4K. These #s were based on me having a lot of the parts needed already (i.e. Nismo Injectors, RPS segmented flywheel & RPS clutch, Howe racing radiator & SPAL fan, etc.). I still think I will need to add a 15-20% contingency just to be safe though. I still think that for the money you cannot beat this value. Before starting to go down this route, I had estimates done by Z1 and SGP racing to have a VG30DETT "built" with everything needed to produce around 550RWHP - the quotes came in at around $14K; so for a little less money I'm going to end up with more HP and more importantly a torque curve the 6 cyl will envy.

My wife is *very* cool with everything - she just likes to understand costs so there are no surprises. After all she's the one that manages all the day to day finances in the household

I'm now starting to get anxious to get this thing done so I can start it up..... I think we're getting really close to being there.

Thanks,
Nick.

Quote, originally posted by Mettler »

Hahah Nick, along with the better torque curve and more HP, you're also going to have a weight reduction over using the VG30DETT

Make that a massive one too!!! The VG30DE weighed a lot compared to the VH, I could tell just pushing it around on the engine hoist. I can't imagine the VG30DETT weighing in any less than 150-200 lbs more than the VH.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll wait to hear from you until I go ahead and purchase (assuming this isn't my father's day present). What type of problems are you seeing?

Thanks,
Nick.

Isn't Nistune capable of communicating with the ostrich directly as well?

Happy Father's Day! My father's day brought me an Ostrich 2.0 (and you're right other than the Moates sticker and the invoice there was nothing else from an instructions perspective - I think I read some instructions online though), so if there's anything you would like for me to test on my setup (as a cross-check, etc.) please let me know. I still need to piece my car together enough to be able to get to this, but when it's done, I'll be available to lend a hand.

I'm also going to call NisTune and ask them a lot of questions about the Ostrich 2.0 integration with NisTune *before* I buy that product. My plan is to piece the car back together, start it with the factory ECM, then install the Ostrich 2.0 and run the stock maps from the Ostrich. Once everything is working I will begin to "tweak" using NisTune.

Just let me know how I can help.

Thanks,
Nick.

The CD is *packed* with stuff. From the documentation (hence no paper instructions) to TunerproRT software, USB drivers, etc. Some of this stuff you've mentioned that you already have, but if you like I can copy the CD somewhere where you can download it.

Let me know if you want to do that.

Thanks,
Nick.

I plugged my Ostrich 2 in, laptop only, as the car isn't ready to receive it yet. Like you I can upload the bin to it, compare, etc. successfully. Out of curiosity, did you start off with the bins that mettler had posted like 2 years ago? I tracked my ECU down based on that nico thread to the 64u01 bin. I am also using the bin definition that was included in the bundle of files. Do you have an updated xdf file for Tunerpro? The one I have seems to have some items with "?" marks in them and I didn't know if there was something newer you found and are using.

On where it writes to on the chip, does the hex editor in TunerPro help any? Mine shows data from 0000-7FFF for a total of 32K. I didn't see an offset setting either. I'm still a couple of weeks before I am in a position to attempt to start the car, but I thought I'd get started with this to accelerate the learning curve.

An interesting thing is that Nistune has ECU lookup files - if one doesn't exist you can create your own - Much of the information can be gotten from the bin definition file. Some of the interesting parameters you can define are:

OFFSET=&H<address>Specifies the memory address offset that the ROM image starts at in hexadecimal. For the following ECU
types:
16KB ROM (27C128) = &H8000 (ECU mirrors this at &HC000 - ROM vector table)
32KB ROM (27C256/Early 16 bit) = &H8000
64KB ROM (Late 16 bit) = &H0000
LENGTH=&H<size>Specifies the memory address size of the ROM image in hexadecimal. For the following ECU types:
16KB ROM (27C128) = &H4000
32KB ROM (27C256/Early 16 bit) = &H8000
64KB ROM (Late 16 bit) = &H10000
CONSULT=&H<address>Location of the Nissan consult table for register access
etc.
etc.

I think Nistune may make it easier to get Ostrich2 to work, but that's me speaking as a noob as I haven't been exposed to much of this until now.

Thanks,
Nick.

I have a bunch of stuff for the ECU an no the BIN I'm starting with was not one I found on the web. I'm using my latest tune that I've been using on my car. I have tried a few others tho to make sure I didn't just have a corrupt file. I even tried stacking two identical bins but it appears to only let you load a 32K file as the hex file wasn't the same as the stacked BIN I uploaded.

I have tried various offsets while writing to the Ostrich and it didn't help. I don't believe the problem is related to writing to the Ostrich, that part seems to work fine. I have tried Tunerpro RT as well as Emutil from the Tunerpro site. No luck with either. I can upload to the Ostrich and then pull the bin back off using the Moates Burn1 and view the hex code and it appears right except for some code from 0x200 to 0x7FFF. From 0x8000 and up it looks like it should.

Communication is fine from computer to Ostrich, the problem is the ECU speaking to the Ostrich. Hopefully I can work out a solution with Moates assistance. I will be very disappointed if I can't get this working.

I assume Moates can send the files or a new CD but if it's convenient I'd love to get a zip file of that CD.

You've got mail...

Nick.

Have you come to any conclusions on the Ostrich2? Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

What's not good is pulling your chip/socket more than once. The tiny traces have a tendency to pull off the PCB during desoldering. I had to repair 3 separate traces that had broken, fortunately I found all the problem traces and got it working.

That is fantastic news (other than the traces breaking)! Let me know what you find out once in the car!

Thanks again for all your hard work with this....

Nick.

Awesome!