Project Road Terror Z

[npez]

npez, I'm jealous of your car lift >_< It's exactly what I need right now!

It's funny you mention that, because I always wanted one - got tired of rolling around on the floor and at 39 now it was really wiping me out. Getting the lift though was the easy part. It took me about 3 weeks to remove a 14 foot section of ceiling from the garage to get 13 feet height across the 14 foot span, then I had to brace the roof rafters (made A-frames on top and blocked them on the structural walls) and then had to reframe the attic space on both sides of the double-bay to seal the garage again (it's air conditioned). I brought a sheetrock crew to sheetrock the vaulted ceilings and I then added [4] 2 foot x 4 foot recessed fluorescent light fixtures (like I'm performing surgery ). I then had to re-wire my entire house to a new electrical sub-panel as all the house wiring (detached garage) was running down the middle of the garage above the ceiling joists in the attic that I removed and weren't long enough to just move out of the way. I was cussin up a storm having to do all this, but in the end it all was worth it. Anyway back to our discussion.

Have you thought about building forward facing manifolds, but having them squeeze out and up past cylinders 1 & 2 on each side at rocker cover level, then forwards before flanging for the turbos? That'd let you miss the P/S and A/C pumps, and mount the turbos behind the headlights in a similar fashion to canadiandrifter240sx's setup.

I reckon that'd work, judging vaguely by the pics craigztoyz posted of his engine mounted in place.

I had thought about it but I didn't think I could squeeze the turbos behind the headlights - now you have me thinking. Another option would be to take the front facing pipe and routing it to the nose (under the front panel where the airbox used to be) and mounting 2 turbos in there.

I asked Craig if he can send me some eye level photos of the LH and RH side manifolds in his engine bay to see how much room is actually there.

I am really wanting a twin-turbo setup so we'll have to see if the turbo will fit behind the headlights or the alternative of running it under the nose. There has to be room somewhere to fit the twins in there.

Thanks for your feedback and suggestions,Nick.

[npez]

You are the photoshop master - you rock

I see what you're saying though. In my last reply I thought the turbo would be more forward than that. I will have to see what would need to happen with the main electrical box on the LH side though. I think a turbo that close even with heatshields will melt that thing....

I'll go look......

Thanks,Nick.

[npez]

Mettler,

I pulled the LH manifold off the motor and tried something funky for kicks. I flipped the manifold over (clocked it 180 degrees) and other than some interference from the downpipe and the first tube with the head around cylinder 1(? forward most cylinder on the LH side) - it fits!

I'm thinking that if the downpipe was cut including the O2 bong, etc., possibly the first tube as well, and cleaned up it may set the tube in a position where the flange can be mounted on. This would minimize the amount of work needed on the manifold to just minor welding and would get us to the endpoint you suggested in your illustration.

Doing it this way also opens up enough space on the side of the motor (as the individual header pipes are now angled up) to run the exhaust from the wastegate and tie it into the exhaust system.

Have you heard of anyone flipping the manifold over like this?

Please advise.

Thanks,Nick.

[Mettler]

Wow what a heck of a lot of work to fit your hoist!! >_<

That's interesting that you can flip the manifold just like that, and it goes a long way to illustrating what's possible. Personally, I'd be inclined to fabricate new manifolds from scratch, as I'm not sure how durable the stock header manifolds would be if modified for twinturbo application... and they aren't all that nice quality inside either. Though they are fairly thick walled I guess... but how prone would they be to cracking etc?

Anyway, that's just speculation... it shows you that such a manifold style would fit... you're probably not the first to think of that Would be keen to read other people's opinions about recycling the stock manifolds... it's a pretty good idea as long as they're made well enough for the purpose.

And it should leave room for a 3" exhaust system on either side that as you said, you could plumb the external wastegate back into.

Another thing to consider would be that your turbos won't actually need to be all that huge. You only need an average sized (good quality) turbo to get 400HP out of an SR20DET... and considering the VH head design flows better, two medium sized turbos like GT3076Rs would undoubtedly be sufficient to achieve 800HP or so (flywheel), and could be small enough not to interfere with anything when mounted as discussed.

I've always felt this is how you'd ideally want to mount the turbos in a V8 twinturbo setup to keep the plumbing as short as you can, because while rear mounting is possible, you'd need a whole lot more pipe... and then your system is also at greater risk of damage from road hazards under the car. I dunno about you, but I've smashed bits off cars before from hitting possums and rabbits on the road... lol

[tmorgan4]

Have you looked at Tecni's manifold design? Obviously a log style manifold isn't IDEAL but I still like the way his are done.

zer...age=3

[npez]

Wow what a heck of a lot of work to fit your hoist!! >_<

Unimaginable! but now I can walk under the car standing up

That's interesting that you can flip the manifold just like that, and it goes a long way to illustrating what's possible. Personally, I'd be inclined to fabricate new manifolds from scratch, as I'm not sure how durable the stock header manifolds would be if modified for twinturbo application... and they aren't all that nice quality inside either. Though they are fairly thick walled I guess... but how prone would they be to cracking etc?

Anyway, that's just speculation... it shows you that such a manifold style would fit... you're probably not the first to think of that Would be keen to read other people's opinions about recycling the stock manifolds... it's a pretty good idea as long as they're made well enough for the purpose.

And it should leave room for a 3" exhaust system on either side that as you said, you could plumb the external wastegate back into.

I'd be interested to hear what others have to say as well. I think if gussetted properly they'll be pretty strong - the stock manis don't look too bad from what I've seen - look like stainless steel oval tubes and the flange is actually angled for better flow. I know a guy that TIGs very well so I can ask him about strength, etc. and see what his thoughts are as well and I can keep everything stainless steel.

Another thing to consider would be that your turbos won't actually need to be all that huge. You only need an average sized (good quality) turbo to get 400HP out of an SR20DET... and considering the VH head design flows better, two medium sized turbos like GT3076Rs would undoubtedly be sufficient to achieve 800HP or so (flywheel), and could be small enough not to interfere with anything when mounted as discussed.

I've always felt this is how you'd ideally want to mount the turbos in a V8 twinturbo setup to keep the plumbing as short as you can, because while rear mounting is possible, you'd need a whole lot more pipe... and then your system is also at greater risk of damage from road hazards under the car. I dunno about you, but I've smashed bits off cars before from hitting possums and rabbits on the road... lol

That's the turbo I was looking at over at the garrett website I'll have to get some dimensions and see how everything can fit. I liked the rear mount as the intercooling effect on the charge pipes is a good thing as well as the turbos being away from all the heat. But looking at what would be involved is a different story.... Front mount may be the only feasible way to go but this way I'll have oil and water to go ball bearing on the turbos..... I'm also going to call a bud that has a junkyard (he has a Q45 motor with a knock) and get the manifolds from that one (I believe 91-94 should be the same) - this way I can hack one set up as turbo manifolds while having my originals to complete phase 1.

This is getting more interesting by the day.....

Thanks,Nick.

[npez]

I did, and it is definitely a viable option. I wanted to see if the stock manis can be easily adapted to eliminate much of the work of making custom manis from scratch, but if the tubing isn't thick enough or for any reason it's deemed that they aren't strong enough to be turbo manis then I guess I'll go down the route of having new ones fabbed. Also I think he's putting his in a G35 if I recall correctly which is a little wider that the Z32 engine bay. This may give him just enough additional room to make it all work.....

Thanks for your input.

Nick.

[T45]

We all know TT can be done on a Z. It's just that there are very very little details on how he did it, and I get the feeling he's not the kind of guy to share. Who knows how much work he did or how many mods he made to the frame, accessories he ditched, etc.

I'm in the same boat as you though, I want to keep ps and a/c, make a nice sports car with great touring assets as well. What fun is a car that has 5 more hp, 15 less lbs of weight and no a/c?

[tmorgan4]

It's cool to see how much attention this car is getting.

Even though you'll be hacking up the manifolds it might be easier to start with a set off a JDM imported engine since they don't have the bulky pre-cats all the US engines do.

Who completed a TT VH45 Z?

[konatown]

Slim (450ZXTT username on here) is the only one I know of to complete a TT Z32. A couple of others in the works.

EDIT:I take that back, Perana said he had one. He's across the big puddle and gets JDM spec parts but still had one running.

[npez]

It's cool to see how much attention this car is getting.

I think all the feedback and comments are great too I really do appreciate it.

Even though you'll be hacking up the manifolds it might be easier to start with a set off a JDM imported engine since they don't have the bulky pre-cats all the US engines do.

I know what you mean with the precats (nothing a recipricating (sawzall) saw couldn't take care of) but most of that section got cut off. I think this technique will be applicable to both USDM and JDM manis though - so if someone is fortunate enough to have JDM manis to start off with it'll still work. I went ahead and hacked up the LH side and it looks pretty good as a starting point.

I sent craigztoyz an e-mail with some measurements I took so I can understand the clearances we have since his engine is already in the car. I will post some pictures with measurements as soon as the batteries on the camera are charged up - I forgot to turn it off when I was downloading the last pictures .

BTW, my intention is to completely document this build, snags and all, with the workarounds/alternatives we all come up with, so in the future someone can refer back to this and see everything that's involved from start to finish. The G35 twin-turbo build is the only thread I had seen that comes close; I believe collectively we can really add a lot of value with such documentation, so in the future someone wanting to undertake something like this can trully understand why some design decisions were made.

I'll post the mani modification with pictures of the LH mani shortly.

Thanks,Nick.

[npez]

Slim (450ZXTT username on here) is the only one I know of to complete a TT Z32. A couple of others in the works.

EDIT:I take that back, Perana said he had one. He's across the big puddle and gets JDM spec parts but still had one running.

I think craigztoyz will be looking at turboing his at some point (we're actually about 150 miles away from each other) and he's helping me with some of the fab work. So if he does something different hopefully that can be documented as well - as an alternative to what I (we) are working on with mine.

Thanks,Nick.

[npez]

ok - I hacked up the manifold to a starting point late last night for having the rest (welding and some minor cutting) done by an expert. I have included some pictures but so far I think this option may work very well. I looked at the option of mounting the turbos behind the headlights but I think I'm going to run into a space issue (especially on the LH side by the relay/fuse box). This decision will need to remain open until the motor is in the car. Worse case scenario I can run the tubes on the side of the radiator where the factory TT plumbing ran - there's 4 inches on each side.

Here's the pics:

Exhaust Manifold Side View

Another view - the Cylinder 1 runner was cut for clearance and will need to be "clocked" to 12 o clock. Where the log bends in near the cut will need to be "clocked" to 11 o clock. This will position the pipe at the bottom front of the valvecover - I'm also thinking of doing a downpipe on the other side of the manifold and mounting a Tial 60mm wastegate there instead of the traditional "Y" pipe; does anyone see any issues with this? It sure would siplify the plumbing.

3 1/2 inches manifold clearance from the middle valve cover bolt. With heat and appropriate persuation this can be brought in another inch and only require 2 1/2 inches of clearance.

Plenty of space underneath the manifold to run 3" exhaust if the wastegate has to be up front in a traditional Y arrangement.

That's all I've got - if anyone has any thoughts or ideas as always they're greatly appreciated.

Thanks,Nick.
Modified by npez at 8:48 PM 5/15/2008

[tmorgan4]

Are you planning on cutting the heat shield off? It was really a pain in the *** but it was well worth it. The heat shields make the headers much larger than they actually are. I ended up heat wrapping mine. Is this a bad idea on a turbo manifold due to heat?

[npez]

Are you planning on cutting the heat shield off? It was really a pain in the *** but it was well worth it. The heat shields make the headers much larger than they actually are.

I will be taking the factory heatshields off as well. I am planning on wrapping or coating them with a thermal barrier coating to keep underhood temps lower. I found the basic raw material, now I need to find out if anyone makes a coating that can be used on a manifold. The raw material is a silica based product called Nanogel Aerogel. I watched a show on TV about this and they had a 1/4-1/2 inch of the material with 1800*F on one side and a thermometer only measured something like 200*F on the other side of the material. It has huge thermal barrier properties.

I ended up heat wrapping mine. Is this a bad idea on a turbo manifold due to heat?

I think I read somewhere that containing the heat in the exhaust manifold actually has a positive effect on a moderate to high A/R turbo's performance. I don't remember the specific thermodynamic principle but it has to do with hot air having more volume than cooler air. This is why STS who makes rear-mount turbos has some design parameters on their turbo selection that takes the temperature drop into account. So wrapping your header should keep the heat in and help with both underhood temps as well as the turbo's performance. I'm not an expert on this though, so if someone has more knowledge on the matter they can elaborate further.

Thanks,Nick.

[craigztoyz]

I think craigztoyz will be looking at turboing his at some point (we're actually about 150 miles away from each other) and he's helping me with some of the fab work. So if he does something different hopefully that can be documented as well - as an alternative to what I (we) are working on with mine.

Thanks,Nick.

Oh Yeah I plan on adding boost.

After all the breakin, and breaking of ?? time will tell.

Nick, I will post pics in a min. Hope to give more insight as to space.

[craigztoyz]

I was imputing the pics @3am, and battery went dead. It is charging now, so pics will be up in an hour or so.

Nick, as we spoke on phone and I measured, yeah, I think that will clear quite well. I like the pics of how you cut it. Wife n girl must love the Sawzall n its delicate sounds. I had tried to flip them over before but due to ubstruction, dropped it. Glad to see you have made it work. Best spot is going to be in front of radiator, with i/c on outside, or viceversa, turbos out though may be too much heat in the space in front of tires, and melt the bumper n such. So much for stage 1. or plan a, I mean. I can't wait to weld in that a/c garage. I got a lot of pics to come, and oh yeah.

check out this pic. this is with the motor in the car, intake on, and everything except piping from the tb. the hood comes within an inch all around, take out 1/2 of hood support, and bulge it a bit. Next one, I am dropping the rack an inch or so, and using different endlinks to make it up. But this is almost under the hood, A heck of a lot more then I thought it would.

OH yeah, sorry if they came out sideways, I just cut and paste after rotating, and resaved, to hope they come out striaght. if not. sorry about the neck, or just click, save, and view. I have every photo I have seen on here that was worth a crap, saved on my laptop, all 10 quagillion.

[npez]

Nick, as we spoke on phone and I measured, yeah, I think that will clear quite well. I like the pics of how you cut it. Wife n girl must love the Sawzall n its delicate sounds. I had tried to flip them over before but due to ubstruction, dropped it. Glad to see you have made it work. Best spot is going to be in front of radiator, with i/c on outside, or viceversa, turbos out though may be too much heat in the space in front of tires, and melt the bumper n such.

I am so glad they'll clear. Luckily with the garage being detached, I don't think the wife and kids even hear the compressor kicking on. Pretty fortunate I guess. I think I will be doing the turbos in the nose where the airbox used to be and then run to the factory ICs. This will allow me to recycle the rest of the plubling openings to get to the throttle body. I was actually surprised at how thick the wall of the tubing is. Pretty stout.

So much for stage 1. or plan a, I mean.

The beauty about redoing the header is I'm going to add flanges in the appropriate locations to have removable downpipes with wastegates and another set that's straight through. If done right I should be able to set the car up to run normally aspirated to start with and then add the rest of the plumbing for the turbos and swap the downpipes with the wastegates on them. I also researched it a bit more and 38mm wastegates should do the job 60mm would be overkill.

I can't wait to weld in that a/c garage. I got a lot of pics to come, and oh yeah.

check out this pic. this is with the motor in the car, intake on, and everything except piping from the tb. the hood comes within an inch all around, take out 1/2 of hood support, and bulge it a bit. Next one, I am dropping the rack an inch or so, and using different endlinks to make it up. But this is almost under the hood, A heck of a lot more then I thought it would.

That's awesome. I will probably take the hood to a customizer and have a bugle added to it and then have the hood repainted. Similar to the so called "power bulge" on the M3 - it'll look stockish this way like the bulge was always there. It's fantastic that you got the motor sitting as low as you did. Great job! I can't wait to get mine in there.

Thanks,Nick.

[craigztoyz]

Almost there, after a few more days of working on other peoples cars, I can get back on mine. Pulled eng last night to put flywheel on. Testfitting was a great fit. Found a few areas of clearance (subframe/headers) that need addressed. found that my wiring is a foot too long, but oh well, hid it in the floorboard, and realized sway has to be dropped an inch to be safe, n clear the pan.

[qsiguy]

Wow, been out of town for a few days and lots of conversation on this project. As far as the rear mount plumbing goes I can't say how it would go under your car. Mine wasn't too bad except for where it passes under the motor. There are a few options but I ended up just going under the motor. The tube I have from just under the drivers seat to the front is going to be redone when I get a chance. It hits currently over even small bumps/dips. It can be raised about 1" and is still the 2.5" round tube. What I'm going to do is use 3 or 3.5" tube and have it flattened into an oval shape and hug the bottom of the car across that area. I need to redo this tube anyway to plumb in my FMIC. I never planned to leave that section anyway, just needed it temporarily. I also just replaced my shocks/springs and since the old shocks were completely empty of oil and useless, the new ones should help even tho the springs are lower.

Around the fender wells is an option with twins because the tubing will smaller 2" max will be fine for twins. The STS Vette kit goes around a similar route.

If you can do front mounts that's probably what I'd do. Although it could end up being as much work, or more, as the rears tho with all of the modifying you must do. I'd like to see a complete photo of the bottom of your 300z. Curious what plumbing routes are available. There is an old thread on NICO of a guy that did a rear mount on an NA 300Z. The workmanship was poor but he made it work. Not sure how it held up.

[craigztoyz]

From what I had found, I am pretty sure that guy's car was sold, then the engine blown, then a NICO member bought it, and was rebuilding it, saw posts about it a month or two back in Z32.

Front mount is starting to look better now that motor is in.

[T45]

I was looking at this more today. I think there is sufficient room for front mount turbos but I think the stock mani's are just too wide once filpped over to clear the frame. There is about 2" and I think piping can be routed there but there are some wires, ps lines, ac lines etc that will have to be moved. A lot of work but it's possible.

PS, the stock VH is a monster so far. I can't open it up all the way due to some running issues but this ***** hauls ****ing ***!

[npez]

T45,

Thank you for the feedback and information.

I was looking at this more today. I think there is sufficient room for front mount turbos but I think the stock mani's are just too wide once filpped over to clear the frame. There is about 2" and I think piping can be routed there but there are some wires, ps lines, ac lines etc that will have to be moved. A lot of work but it's possible.

Quick question. When you say front mount are you referring to behind the headlights or where the airbox used to be like I was saying? As far as the manis I think your engine may be sitting a little lower than craigztoys' and where mine will end up. The reason I say this is that I had craigztoys measure from where the "log" is to where it hits horizontally to the engine bay (going towards the fenders) and he stated that the manis are above the frame rails with about 3-1/2 inches of clearance. Now I plan on pulling the "log" inwards toward the valvecover by about an inch so in theory this will change the radiuses of each runner and provide for 3/4-1" clearance from the header to the strut tower (it actually hits where the hole is on the support for the strut tower to the frame rail). I guess we'll have to see in about a week or so when craigztoyz come over so we can stab my engine in. When I have something definitive I will report back - with pics of course:)

PS, the stock VH is a monster so far. I can't open it up all the way due to some running issues but this ***** hauls ****ing ***!

That's what I love to hear! I know the engine has monster torque and with the aid of some extra air and fuel it will be a real terror on the road

Thanks again for your feedback and I'll let you know what I find out as well.

Nick.

Modified by npez at 12:18 AM 5/17/2008
Modified by npez at 12:20 AM 5/17/2008

[npez]

Hi Shane,

Yes we've been busy. I am over at my in-laws (out of town) at the moment, but when I get back home I can take a complete picture of the bottom of the car for you and post it here. You'll see that with a rear mount setup there would be plubling protruding all over the bottom of the car. My Z also has an Eibach Pro/Tokico suspension so the car also sits 3/4 inch lower than stock.

Let me ask you out of curiosity, I have located a couple of brand new T3/T4 hybrid turbos 57 trim with a stage 3 wheel for a pretty good price. Do you think something like this would work pretty well to get this thing kick-started? Do you have any concerns with this type of setup? I'm trying to accelerate the time between phase 1 completion and phase 2a (7-8 psi of boost). At the end of the day when the motor is "built" I may go ahead and get the GT3071Rs (I misspoke when I said 3076s earlier) if the T3/T4s don't perform as I'd like them to, and go from there.

I'm going to go visit a friend who has a muffler shop with capabilities for stainless steel mandrel bends to inquire about fabricating the plubling to and from the turbo compressor side. I may have him do the mani completion versus my other friend as I may get a better deal if he does everything - my other friend doesn't have a mandrel bender.

I want to have all this completed before craigztoyz comes down in a week or so for us to put the engine in. I plan to have the muffler shop make 2 sets of pipes. One that will go to a flange to be installed on the header which will do a 90-180* bend (depending on flange location) and tie in to the factory exhaust (so I can run the car NA). The second set (which will be done after the engine is in the car and I can drive it over there) will be pipes that will mount to the same flange and feed the front mount turbos when I'm ready to go there.

I should have a good update early next week when I finish the harness (I'll post pics of the process) and have the opportunity to talk to the muffler shop. I then go on a mini 3 day vacation with the family and will hit it hard again over the Memorial day weekend here where I will re-assemble the transmission with the modified bell housing, install the mazworx adapter, my RPS flywheel, and clutch and install the modified harness back in the car.

Thanks again for your feedback.

Nick.

[qsiguy]

Are you asking about those T3/T4 turbos for a front mount option or rear? From what I'm reading you've pretty much shot down the rear mount option. I'd have to look at the compressor map for the turbo you are looking at to give you a decent answer. If you want my educated guess I'd say it would work and give you some room to grow in a twin configuration. I'd also want to know what the specs were on the turbine side. That's what will determine the spool up time or lag you encounter. It's more critical in a rear mount setup I believe but you should definitely know the numbers.

[perana]

hi there i'm sorry for not seing this ealier but i'm very bussy.also i have a heavy mod vg now so i dont use the vh engines that much anymore.here are some pics of the parts i used.i have found one of the first manifold i made but its at our workshop.(i'll take a pic on monday)this was the charge pipes there was more but havent found them yet.dont remember how they go together.[IMG]http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh13 ... 000438.jpg[/IMG hope this helps i dont have the turbos anymore but they where garret/nismo580rs and too small.cheers
Modified by perana at 2:52 AM 5/17/2008

[perana]

yo,your idea of the pipe inside the fender works well.i've done it on my single turbo z32,but sadly i did not complete it.theres some pics of my turbo setup from underneath but i cant find it here on nico.i have the complete 2.5"id exaust system of my ttvh45.i can take some more pics if you want maybe you can piece it togerther mentally and get some ideas.cheers

[tmorgan4]

PS, the stock VH is a monster so far. I can't open it up all the way due to some running issues but this ***** hauls ****ing ***!

Send me your address so I can get you some injectors!!!

[craigztoyz]

I was looking at this more today. I think there is sufficient room for front mount turbos but I think the stock mani's are just too wide once filpped over to clear the frame. There is about 2" and I think piping can be routed there but there are some wires, ps lines, ac lines etc that will have to be moved. A lot of work but it's possible.

PS, the stock VH is a monster so far. I can't open it up all the way due to some running issues but this ***** hauls ****ing ***!

WOW, I can't wait. How does it feel? Stupid amount of torque supply? I am hoping for burnouts @50mph.

Yeah, space is really tight, having the motor in, and in the exact same spot as Nick's will be, as I am the one making his mounts, pickup and pan, I can see how he is giong to do it, and pretty darn sure that he will make it fit, as for the electronics, yeah, there is a heat issue up high, and like I have been talking with Nick alot about, the space in front is very limited with a 4core radiator, and the ability to add a fan pulling is hard, a pusher is easier, but with the turbo's up there, HOT.

Nick, What's the size #'s on the Trubo. When you come down after seeing Shamu, and get to see it in the car, it will make a big difference on your mental image. I forget right this second the exact spots we measured from on the phone that night, but yes with work they will fit, the fun is going to be the disipation of heat, hopefully coating will help majorly. Either way the end of next weekend will be good. Having the turbo's and mounting done, will be sweet, I can't wait to see. Screw a, b is more fun anyways, but sounds like there is sufficent power with just N/A.

Shane, I'm not abandoning the rearmount turbo idea. Nick, well his is easier this way, as his was already a turbo car. Mine being n/a might be easier to do rear, as the exhaust fits with ease, and I will somehow make a 3" pipe, ovaled, and hugging the car, fit. His piping is different, and would have to have pipe made anyways. Either way, the car is going to be even sweeter then it already is. Craig

I was looking at this more today. I think there is sufficient room for front mount turbos but I think the stock mani's are just too wide once filpped over to clear the frame. There is about 2" and I think piping can be routed there but there are some wires, ps lines, ac lines etc that will have to be moved. A lot of work but it's possible.

PS, the stock VH is a monster so far. I can't open it up all the way due to some running issues but this ***** hauls ****ing ***!

Sounds sweet, how much power is there? at 50, will it spin the tires if you try? I forget right now where we measured from that night, I just choose spots, to and from, to measure clearance, and it'll fit with work, and since he already cut off most of 1n2 pipes, can bend in 3-6 to get the angle closer to the eng, and away from the strut. Heat disipation is still giong to be the big issue. Nick when you get to come down in a few days, and see it, you'll see how close everything is, and it almost seems like Nisssan intended it to go in here. Next weekend after the family goes back home, will be good though. Shane, I still hope to go rear tt, as mine is n/a it would be easier to convert. His being turbo already, it is easier to find a way to keep it up there, as opposed to making new pipe up front, and then..... I just wonder if I will really need the extra power, or if modding the Vh45 will be enough. I mean power that you can apply, and actually use for things other then just to make the rubber go away really fast.

[npez]

Shane,

Thanks for the feedback.

Are you asking about those T3/T4 turbos for a front mount option or rear? From what I'm reading you've pretty much shot down the rear mount option. I'd have to look at the compressor map for the turbo you are looking at to give you a decent answer. If you want my educated guess I'd say it would work and give you some room to grow in a twin configuration. I'd also want to know what the specs were on the turbine side. That's what will determine the spool up time or lag you encounter. It's more critical in a rear mount setup I believe but you should definitely know the numbers.

Here's the only info I have on the turbo.

COMPRESSOR SPECS:flow: 53 lbs/min 678cfm.60 A/R HOUSING57 TRIM WHEEL

TURBINE SPECS:.63 A/R HOUSINGSTAGE 3 WHEEL

I don't know what stage 3 wheel means in this context as I'm used to looking at inducer/exducer sizes in mm - I've sent an inquiry to get that info as well as a compressor map - I'll post it as soon as I have it. When I looked around I found people are using this on the KA24s. I was thinking of using these as front mount twins.....

I hope this helps....

Thanks,Nick.