Project Road Terror Z

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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npez
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qsiguy wrote:I'm not sure what you get with the Conzult. Mine has a Consult plug on one end, goes to a small circuit board, then has a USB cable that goes to the laptop. This is just for the logging, map trace, etc. You don't need this cable to burn chips but you need it to monitor the car/ECU. You'll also need a consult adapter and the Ostrich to use Nistune.

After swapping chips in the ECU about a dozen times you'll be ready for the real time tuning
Shane,

The conzult came with pretty much the smae thing. Consult connector on one end - circuitry - USB. I think it should work. I'm planning on the Ostrich setup so I'll change the chip once Other than that I'll probably use what you're using/recommended.

I think it'll be verrry coool!

Thanks Shane,Nick.


T45
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darkengineer wrote:NPEZ made me think of something: does anyone have pictures of the underbody of a 2+2 300?

I only ask because I too have plans for a VH45DE w/ FI but the rear layout is different between a 2+0 and a 2+2 due to the fuel tank. Also, I haven't been under the car in a while due to apartment complex restrictions on car repair/maintenance and now have forgotten what the layout is, exactly. I was considering a single turbo because of underbody space and knowing the amount of low-end torque the VH45 already has.
I thought I had a pic but I can't find it. It's basically just like the 2+0 minus any extra room whatsoever. lol If one put in a fuel cell it would open up a lot of space. Not a lot of room for much unless you just run your pipes in and straight out of the turbo's without mufflers. Not a bad idea though, would sound sweet!

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qsiguy
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Who needs mufflers, that's what turbos are for! I have no mufflers, Just the cats (4 of them ) to turbo and out. I love the sound.

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npez
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Just a quick update.

I got back on it today. Here's where I'm at:

-Reassembled the transmission with Mazworx modified bell housing-Clearanced old VH starter mounting flange to clear Z starter and test fitted-Installed Mazworx adapter (with one less bolt for now) due to CNC issue-Working on harness (will post pics) to put in the car tomorrow-Ordered turbos, 38mm waste gates (7psi setting - will use my greddy boost controller for more when that time comes), stainless steel turbo flanges & gaskets, more aluminum intercooler pumbing, and other miscellaneous items for the turbo setup - fedex shows Thursday delivery.-Swapped out my 94 ECM with a 93 model ECM from my friend at the junkard-Called the fabricator - will rent a pickup and bring him the engine (Great suggestion Craig) on Friday so we can fab the manifolds up with the engine there. I will also have him fab up a removable turbo bypass pipe for now so I can run the car normally aspirated without any turbos connected - this will allow me to stage between turbo and NA.

Craig is coming down Tuesday (Monday would've been even better ) so we can do the engine mounts and put the newly fabbed oil pan on. Once the engine/trans is in the car I will do my measurements to see where the turbos will end up and bring that info to the fabricator for the manifold fabbing.

To Do in the next week or so:-Purchase pilot bearing (tomorrow) - will mount flywheel & clutch when we have the engine in.-Sort out logistics of the turbo installation-Figure out what needs to be done to the ECM to work with the rom emulator.-Order Ostrich2 and other engine management essentials-Order t-pipe for thermo-switch for the fan.-Locate and buy MAF sensor-Locate and buy water pump pulley

That's about it for now....

Thanks,Nick.

tmorgan4
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Are you aware of the modifications necessary to the pilot bushing? I went through 3 of them before I realized the O.D. needed to be ground down slightly. If you don't grind it down enough it squishes the bushing (or cracks it) and the alignment tool for the clutch doesn't even want to fit without force. You're probably aware of it, but if you aren't it was a huge source of frustration in my build!

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npez
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tmorgan4 wrote:Are you aware of the modifications necessary to the pilot bushing? I went through 3 of them before I realized the O.D. needed to be ground down slightly. If you don't grind it down enough it squishes the bushing (or cracks it) and the alignment tool for the clutch doesn't even want to fit without force. You're probably aware of it, but if you aren't it was a huge source of frustration in my build!
Thanks for the information. I wasn't aware of that. I had read gs14racer's posts and he had mentioned that it went right in so I thought just buy and install. Thanks for letting me know and eliminating several trips to the part store and hours of troubleshooting....

Thanks again,Nick.

z1 zonly
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Well, this is pretty much shaping up to be the exact build--right down to Ostrich--I have been plotting for some time now in my other Z (and funding with my current VH project!). Although I will no longer be able to lay claim to initial conceptualization or execution, I wish you all the best in your build. Keep up the documentation. Especially the play-by-plays--they proliferate the little stuff that really helps in the clutch, like the pilot bushing thing.

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npez
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z1 zonly wrote:Well, this is pretty much shaping up to be the exact build--right down to Ostrich--I have been plotting for some time now in my other Z (and funding with my current VH project!). Although I will no longer be able to lay claim to initial conceptualization or execution, I wish you all the best in your build. Keep up the documentation. Especially the play-by-plays--they proliferate the little stuff that really helps in the clutch, like the pilot bushing thing.
Thanks! I'll keep posting pictures etc. to keep it up to date. I'm sorting out some harness challenges this evening and hope to have it all sorted out by tomorrow. I'm updating my notes and then the spreadsheet. The real test will be when we start it up. Then the spreadsheet will be finalized and we'll have a complete electrical integration document.

Thanks again.

Nick.

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qsiguy
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I suppose you are way past the turbo selection page but those reading may be interested. From our early conversations on my turbo calc spreadsheet I made some mods to it and now have a twin turbo version at the link below. Just enter in the total HP goal and the actual engine size and the program will cut those values in half automatically. Whatever turbo it calls for you just need two of them.

Let me know if you find any bugs in it. I think I worked them all out.http://c4caraudio.com/tech/for...T.xls

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npez
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qsiguy wrote:I suppose you are way past the turbo selection page but those reading may be interested. From our early conversations on my turbo calc spreadsheet I made some mods to it and now have a twin turbo version at the link below. Just enter in the total HP goal and the actual engine size and the program will cut those values in half automatically. Whatever turbo it calls for you just need two of them.

Let me know if you find any bugs in it. I think I worked them all out.http://c4caraudio.com/tech/for...T.xls
Awesome

I did use your original version of the spreadsheet and it sure made things easier. I did like we talked and halfed the displacement and then multiplied by 2 for the total. The twin-turbo version is a great addition!

The spreadsheet really does work very well and everyone considering a turbo should use it. The alternative is doing all the Garrett calculations by hand that is no fun - seriously......

Thanks again Shane.

Nick.

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npez
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Ok now that the harness is done, I thought I would post some pics however there is some kind of problem with iserve that is not allowing me to upload a jpg or a png. It says it's not a valid image file. Opens just fine locally. Anybody know if there's a problem?

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qsiguy
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I don't know, I always use Photobucket, highly recommended.

T45
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z1 zonly wrote:--they proliferate....
I had to hit up Webster's for that one.

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npez
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qsiguy wrote:I don't know, I always use Photobucket, highly recommended.
I'll keep that in mind when my iserve subscription expires.

Thanks,Nick

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npez
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ok - so I got the harness finished (as soon as iserve lets me upload pictures I'll post them) and I was all gung-ho at midnight here in Houston, to install the thing in the car and then go to bed (vacation's over).

So I start working it and the ECM connector appears aligned to go through - BUT it's slightly stuck. So my thought is to use my rubber mallet to "tap" it through the rest of the way. So tapping I go and it's moving, it's almost through, and CRACK. My heart skipped several beats as I proceeded to take the connector back out to see what happened. Then CRACK again.

I finally took the connector out to discover that it broke in two places

What started out as a one hour project is going to turn into 3-4 hours. I just finished de-pinning a spare connector I had (took 45 minutes) and believe it or not my fingers are sore. I will now start taking pin by pin on the broken connector de-pin it and re-pin them to the good ECM connector.

So the moral of the story here is, if you have to force it, even slightly, you're doing something wrong

I now hope I can get this thing done this evening to progress to the next steps of the project.

Nick.

T45
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Ah that sucks. It's very difficult to get it through but it will go through. Lots of massaging and you'll get happy ending.

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npez
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T45 wrote:Ah that sucks. It's very difficult to get it through but it will go through. Lots of massaging and you'll get happy ending.
Thanks T45. I flared the bottom of the hole out with some vise-grips (so I can easily straighten it out and it seems that this provides a bit more clearance. I was going to try to put it in last night and decided against it (at 3:30AM) as tiredness and "massaging" don't go well together.

So I'll put it in this evening. Just out of curiosity have you heard if people run the harness in the factory Z location (with the harness hangers) or if they go with the hangers on the motor? I'm leaning towards the latter but wanted to see if you could recall something from the top of your head.

Thanks,Nick.

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npez
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Ok - iServe is working again so here are some pictures of the harness work. Once thing that I highly recommend is to tag everything - it makes it easier than continuously referencing wire colors.

300zx Relay harness for new sister harness to the VH's Harness - you need to sort through your EFI harness and get all the wiring that leads up to the 2 connectors on the fuse/relay box on the LH fenderwell

Another picture of the main VH and Z relay harness side by side

Picture of the additional connector on the Z's EFI harness on the RH side footwell - cut this off the Z's harness as you'll need this later.

Picture of the firewall harness grommet. You'll want to slice the side as it will be a lot harder to feed wires through it intact. The slice will be taped later so there's no worries there.

Feed the wires through the grommet one by one - a pair of needlenose pliers are very helpful for this.

When you're done feeding the wires it'll look something like this

If you're running a pre-94 ECM do not run the fan/sub-fan relay coil wires (2 wires) into the car. These will end up on the thermo-switch in the front by the radiator. This will allow you to continue to run the factory Z fan relays.

OMG - this looks like a freekin mess - it actually much better than it looks. Make sure you solder and heat shrink your joints. If you're not comfortable soldering you may also choose to crimp the wires (that's how the factory harness joins wires)

The harness after it got wrapped - looking much better now

Close up of the foot well connector as part of the new harness

After the grommet I used a factory vinyl sleeve to protect the wires it's not fully taped up as I ran out of tape (as can be evidenced by the empty roll by the harness).

This is the oil-pressure sending unit for the pressure gauge in the car. It's on the RH side engine harness - as the oil pressure sensor is on the LH side on the VH, this wire will need to be cut and extended to reach.

That's all I've got for now.

Thanks,Nick.

craigztoyz
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Is that all?

Now I don't want to post my how to. Yours looks so much more organized. Mine was on my livingroom floor. Tile of course.

The extra foot at least, can be filled in the area above the ecu, and get cover on. I put more in the car, to shorten it in the bay.

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npez
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While discussing injectors on another post I found out that the phase 1 (older style) 555cc injectors I have will not work with the phase 2 injector setup on my 94 motor (they can but would require an older fuel rail & connectors). Interestingly enough superhatch has a 94 motor with a phase 1 setup while my 94 and others have a phase 2 setup. So if you have a 94 motor check the injector connector as the injector change while in 94 may have been a mid-year change. If its square with a metal clip on the connector you have a phase 1 setup if its got rounded corners with a plastic clip on connector you have a phase 2 setup.

So I called Z1 motorsports to ask if they could exchange for newer rotary injectors and to my delight they said yes - the reason I was delighted is that while the injectors are still new in the box, I placed the original order 2 years ago! They also lowered the restocking fee to 10%

So I ordered the newer style Nismos which are also less expensive as well as the orings for them and ended up picking up the HICAS eliminator kit from them as well.

As an added bonus I found out the new style injectors while called 555s actually flow at 615cc! This eliminates the need for me to increase the base fuel pressure as I'll have enough headroom for these to run at less than 80% duty cycle @ 600-650HP (Phase 2B of the project).

I got a big box with 60 lbs of "turbo stuff" delivered today (It's like Christmas time in May!), so I will go open the box later and see what everything looks like. I'll try to post some pictures later.

That's about it for now.....

Thanks,Nick.

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npez
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I was looking at the capabilties of Nistune this evening on their website, and it does look very impressive as Shane mentioned earlier. So I think to myself "I'll bite - let me contact them and get some more info on this"

I looked everywhere on the site and there is not one place with an e-mail contact, a contact us page, or telephone #!

Does anyone have any idea how to contact these folks? Also being they're outside the US has anyone within the US ordered Nistune and if so were there any duties due for the product?

Please advise.

Thanks,Nick.

T45
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Harness looks great! When I did mine I just took the stock Q one and put it in the car. Then started hooking everything up. When it came time to run wires through it I just found extra wires from the TCS and EGR and stuff to 'backfeed' to the ecu for the relays and such. Worked great but wiring codes are all jacked up. Basically one wire will go from brown to green to red. lol

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SuperHatch
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npez wrote:I was looking at the capabilties of Nistune this evening on their website, and it does look very impressive as Shane mentioned earlier. So I think to myself "I'll bite - let me contact them and get some more info on this"

I looked everywhere on the site and there is not one place with an e-mail contact, a contact us page, or telephone #!

Does anyone have any idea how to contact these folks? Also being they're outside the US has anyone within the US ordered Nistune and if so were there any duties due for the product?

Please advise.

Thanks,Nick.
http://www.nistune.com/ordering.htm

On that page there is a link for "[email protected]"

Just remember, you will need to use an emulator like an Ostrich to use NisTune with a VH ECU.

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npez
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SuperHatch wrote:
http://www.nistune.com/ordering.htm

On that page there is a link for "[email protected]"

Just remember, you will need to use an emulator like an Ostrich to use NisTune with a VH ECU.
Thanks Steve. What happeded is I was looking at the page at a lower resolution from my notebook in the garage remote controlling my main computer in the house which is a higher screen resolution (that way I can work on the car and still have all my stuff available). Doing so caused their menu at the top to "clip" at downloads without scroll bars - so I couldn't see the Ordering option.....

Yes I know on the Ostrich2 - I was looking at their site and they have a bundle of tunerpro, etc. with ostrich. It seemed like Nistune had a lot more features to make tuning a little easier. Now I need to justify the extra cost compared to the features - so I need to do some more homework.

Thanks again bud.

Nick.

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qsiguy
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This is the response I got from them a month ago.

"Hi Shane You will only need to purchase the Moates Ostrich 2 emulator from http://www.moates.net and our software ($208AUD including paypal to [email protected]) You are able to perform live tuning using the emulator, and maptrace/guages are provided from the consult port Our Type 2 boards doesnt support VH45DE so emulation is the only option available, but works about the same within our software You can load in any BIN you want to your emulator via NIStune and go with that regardsMatt"

I'm still a little unclear how it will work. For instance, are we actually editing the bin from their software? How does their software know what addresses are used on this ECU? I'm also not sold on the expense for what you get. By just getting the Ostrich 2 and some free software you can do real time tuning. I guess the only real advantage I can see is that you can do the map trace and tuning all from one program, assuming you edit the bin from Nistune. I guess I need to send them another email and ask...
Modified by qsiguy at 6:12 PM 5/30/2008

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npez
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qsiguy wrote:This is the response I got from them a month ago.

"Hi Shane You will only need to purchase the Moates Ostrich 2 emulator from http://www.moates.net and our software ($208AUD including paypal to [email protected]) You are able to perform live tuning using the emulator, and maptrace/guages are provided from the consult port Our Type 2 boards doesnt support VH45DE so emulation is the only option available, but works about the same within our software You can load in any BIN you want to your emulator via NIStune and go with that regardsMatt"

I'm still a little unclear how it will work. For instance, are we actually editing the bin from their software? How does their software know what addresses are used on this ECU? I'm also not sold on the expense for what you get. By just getting the Ostrich 2 and some free software you can do real time tuning. I guess the only real advantage I can see is that you can do the map trace and tuning all from one program, assuming you edit the bin from Nistune. I guess I need to send them another email and ask...

Modified by qsiguy at 6:12 PM 5/30/2008
Shane,

This if from their ordering page:"All orders must have an vehicle name, model, year and ECU part numberPart numbers are 23710-xxxxx and / or Axx-xxx-xxx as pictured below. This is so we know what ROM image to put in your board.

We do not have all ROM images. Some might need to be downloaded from your stock factory ECU using a CONSULT cable and then sent to us for programming"

Not sure how this image interfaces with Ostrich as I believe moates requires the same info when you order. It is clear as day though that they have a picture of the ECM and the ostrich HW interconnected on the website. Let me know what you find out and I'll inquire as well and report back. I hope this helps, I'm a noob when it comes to the specifics of engine management - I'm a quick study though .

Please advise.

Thanks,Nick.
Modified by npez at 8:46 PM 5/30/2008

ultrapulse
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qsiguy wrote:Holy cow, I didn't realize you were already that far. Awesome! And another holy cow, that's the garage at your house!!!! I want a lift, man I am really really jealous. You rock.
Just wondering if youy guys over in the US got the z32 TT without ABS brakes? I wouldnt have thought so, but the only zeds over here without abs are a very few NA's. Reason I say this is that all those brake pipes running across the firewall over here means they have no ABS. My spare body which will be the VH45 donor 'only' weighs in at about 1440kgs which is the lightest zed ive owned, ie manual, NA, hardtop (2 seater), and no abs. I can see its aturbo model as it has the HICAS piping down your drivers side (our passengers side) as I only know of TT's having HICAS.By the way good work, and wish I could carry on with mine.

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npez
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ultrapulse wrote:Just wondering if youy guys over in the US got the z32 TT without ABS brakes? I wouldnt have thought so, but the only zeds over here without abs are a very few NA's. Reason I say this is that all those brake pipes running across the firewall over here means they have no ABS. My spare body which will be the VH45 donor 'only' weighs in at about 1440kgs which is the lightest zed ive owned, ie manual, NA, hardtop (2 seater), and no abs. I can see its aturbo model as it has the HICAS piping down your drivers side (our passengers side) as I only know of TT's having HICAS.By the way good work, and wish I could carry on with mine.
Thanks ultrapulse. The lines going across the firewall on mine end up going through the RH fenderwell, then down and back along the framerails to the ABS module behind the RH seat. You may be able to see them in one of the underbody pictures. I can't speak definitively for all TTs but at least my 93 has ABS on it (I think the rest of them did too though). Yes you are correct mine is a TT with HICAS (again I think all TTs had HICAS) but I just bought a HICAS eliminator as the hydraulics to keep it are just too big a pain versus the benefit.

Thanks,Nick.


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npez
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Shane,

I started reading the NisTune manual and this thing is an integration "gem" - I'm really thinking of buying it. I think our answer on "how they do it" with the Ostrich2 lies in this screen shot from the manual. If you look at all the individual components this single tool integrates it is trully amazing. I agree with you, just glancing at the other tools, that all function can be collectively performed across the various tools, the "niche" of NisTune appears to be integrating everything into one place.

Here's the screen shot:

I am really close to just "biting the bullet" and buying NisTune with Ostrich2 and calling it a day. I'll sleep on it and make the final decision tomorrow.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks,Nick.

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Carl H
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having tuned my car on stock ecu and having to use 3 different programs at once to do live tuning and tracing nistune is a great deal.only gripe is that it seems to crash on my vista machine...


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