Thanks again,
Nick.

Sorry it took a little bit to get the photos but I just got around to bringing the camera back out to the garage. Here you go - there are some shadows but hopefully you can discern the nuances of layout from the photos. There's plenty of space where the mufflers are but there a major constraint around the rear subframe, and the bottom is pretty flat all and all.

Thanks,
Nick.

Sounds like your front mount method will work great tho. If I get my 300ZX some day I guess I'll have to do the rear mount. Maybe I'll just find a cheap NA model and turbo it with twins in the rear.

Does anyone have one from a 94 that they'd be willing to part with cheap? I don't want to pay $60 to get a new one from infiniti. I can also swap the 92 one I've got if anyone needs one.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

Those prices sound great. If you had access, you should take him the motor, so he could build around it. Sounds great.

I still think that rear turbo is very doable. Hope to one day, but for now, see what she has with this.

We have 36 (42 if I include Lexus) in our shop.

The header work is at a great price, in my opinion.

Quote, originally posted by craigztoyz »

Those prices sound great. If you had access, you should take him the motor, so he could build around it. Sounds great.

I dropped off the manifolds this morning. We'll see the progress after I get back from vacation. I'm waiting on a quote for the turbos, flanges, oil lines, etc. and once I receive those and purchase, then I will finalize the layout in the engine bay and have him permanently weld.

Quote, originally posted by craigztoyz »

I still think that rear turbo is very doable. Hope to one day, but for now, see what she has with this.

It'll be great! I'm sure of it.

Thanks,
Nick.

When we get the motor put in we can play around with various options and try to determine where the turbos will ultimately end up. I'll take pictures with the various scenarios we come up with.....

All I need to do now is buy 2 more Nismo 555cc injectors to complete the set as I already have the 6 in their boxes that I bought for the VG motor. I hope to get the engine management software/hardware as well later in the week (Anyone know if I can just use the Conzult cable that came with the Conzult software?) - Also I think I'll go down Shane's route with the exception of adding the Ostrich 2.0 emulator. I think this will be a good start and maybe get Nistune after I have some experience under my belt.

That's all for now. Going on vacation starting tomorrow, then coming back refreshed as there is a lot of work to be done before Craig gets here.

Thanks,
Nick.

After swapping chips in the ECU about a dozen times you'll be ready for the real time tuning

I only ask because I too have plans for a VH45DE w/ FI but the rear layout is different between a 2+0 and a 2+2 due to the fuel tank. Also, I haven't been under the car in a while due to apartment complex restrictions on car repair/maintenance and now have forgotten what the layout is, exactly. I was considering a single turbo because of underbody space and knowing the amount of low-end torque the VH45 already has.

Image exceeds 600x200 sig size limt

The conzult came with pretty much the smae thing. Consult connector on one end - circuitry - USB. I think it should work. I'm planning on the Ostrich setup so I'll change the chip once Other than that I'll probably use what you're using/recommended.

I think it'll be verrry coool!

Thanks Shane,
Nick.

I thought I had a pic but I can't find it. It's basically just like the 2+0 minus any extra room whatsoever. lol If one put in a fuel cell it would open up a lot of space. Not a lot of room for much unless you just run your pipes in and straight out of the turbo's without mufflers. Not a bad idea though, would sound sweet!

I got back on it today. Here's where I'm at:

-Reassembled the transmission with Mazworx modified bell housing
-Clearanced old VH starter mounting flange to clear Z starter and test fitted
-Installed Mazworx adapter (with one less bolt for now) due to CNC issue
-Working on harness (will post pics) to put in the car tomorrow
-Ordered turbos, 38mm waste gates (7psi setting - will use my greddy boost controller for more when that time comes), stainless steel turbo flanges & gaskets, more aluminum intercooler pumbing, and other miscellaneous items for the turbo setup - fedex shows Thursday delivery.
-Swapped out my 94 ECM with a 93 model ECM from my friend at the junkard
-Called the fabricator - will rent a pickup and bring him the engine (Great suggestion Craig) on Friday so we can fab the manifolds up with the engine there. I will also have him fab up a removable turbo bypass pipe for now so I can run the car normally aspirated without any turbos connected - this will allow me to stage between turbo and NA.

Craig is coming down Tuesday (Monday would've been even better ) so we can do the engine mounts and put the newly fabbed oil pan on. Once the engine/trans is in the car I will do my measurements to see where the turbos will end up and bring that info to the fabricator for the manifold fabbing.

To Do in the next week or so:
-Purchase pilot bearing (tomorrow) - will mount flywheel & clutch when we have the engine in.
-Sort out logistics of the turbo installation
-Figure out what needs to be done to the ECM to work with the rom emulator.
-Order Ostrich2 and other engine management essentials
-Order t-pipe for thermo-switch for the fan.
-Locate and buy MAF sensor
-Locate and buy water pump pulley

That's about it for now....

Thanks,
Nick.

Thanks again,
Nick.

Thanks again.

Nick.

Let me know if you find any bugs in it. I think I worked them all out.
http://c4caraudio.com/tech/for...T.xls

I did use your original version of the spreadsheet and it sure made things easier. I did like we talked and halfed the displacement and then multiplied by 2 for the total. The twin-turbo version is a great addition!

The spreadsheet really does work very well and everyone considering a turbo should use it. The alternative is doing all the Garrett calculations by hand that is no fun - seriously......

Thanks again Shane.

Nick.

I had to hit up Webster's for that one.

Quote, originally posted by qsiguy »

I don't know, I always use Photobucket, highly recommended.

Thanks,
Nick

So I start working it and the ECM connector appears aligned to go through - BUT it's slightly stuck. So my thought is to use my rubber mallet to "tap" it through the rest of the way. So tapping I go and it's moving, it's almost through, and CRACK. My heart skipped several beats as I proceeded to take the connector back out to see what happened. Then CRACK again.

I finally took the connector out to discover that it broke in two places

What started out as a one hour project is going to turn into 3-4 hours. I just finished de-pinning a spare connector I had (took 45 minutes) and believe it or not my fingers are sore. I will now start taking pin by pin on the broken connector de-pin it and re-pin them to the good ECM connector.

So the moral of the story here is, if you have to force it, even slightly, you're doing something wrong

I now hope I can get this thing done this evening to progress to the next steps of the project.

Nick.

So I'll put it in this evening. Just out of curiosity have you heard if people run the harness in the factory Z location (with the harness hangers) or if they go with the hangers on the motor? I'm leaning towards the latter but wanted to see if you could recall something from the top of your head.

Thanks,
Nick.

300zx Relay harness for new sister harness to the VH's Harness - you need to sort through your EFI harness and get all the wiring that leads up to the 2 connectors on the fuse/relay box on the LH fenderwell

Another picture of the main VH and Z relay harness side by side

Picture of the additional connector on the Z's EFI harness on the RH side footwell - cut this off the Z's harness as you'll need this later.

Picture of the firewall harness grommet. You'll want to slice the side as it will be a lot harder to feed wires through it intact. The slice will be taped later so there's no worries there.

Feed the wires through the grommet one by one - a pair of needlenose pliers are very helpful for this.

When you're done feeding the wires it'll look something like this

If you're running a pre-94 ECM do not run the fan/sub-fan relay coil wires (2 wires) into the car. These will end up on the thermo-switch in the front by the radiator. This will allow you to continue to run the factory Z fan relays.

OMG - this looks like a freekin mess - it actually much better than it looks. Make sure you solder and heat shrink your joints. If you're not comfortable soldering you may also choose to crimp the wires (that's how the factory harness joins wires)

The harness after it got wrapped - looking much better now

Close up of the foot well connector as part of the new harness

After the grommet I used a factory vinyl sleeve to protect the wires it's not fully taped up as I ran out of tape (as can be evidenced by the empty roll by the harness).

This is the oil-pressure sending unit for the pressure gauge in the car. It's on the RH side engine harness - as the oil pressure sensor is on the LH side on the VH, this wire will need to be cut and extended to reach.

That's all I've got for now.

Thanks,
Nick.

Now I don't want to post my how to. Yours looks so much more organized. Mine was on my livingroom floor. Tile of course.

The extra foot at least, can be filled in the area above the ecu, and get cover on. I put more in the car, to shorten it in the bay.

So I called Z1 motorsports to ask if they could exchange for newer rotary injectors and to my delight they said yes - the reason I was delighted is that while the injectors are still new in the box, I placed the original order 2 years ago! They also lowered the restocking fee to 10%

So I ordered the newer style Nismos which are also less expensive as well as the orings for them and ended up picking up the HICAS eliminator kit from them as well.

As an added bonus I found out the new style injectors while called 555s actually flow at 615cc! This eliminates the need for me to increase the base fuel pressure as I'll have enough headroom for these to run at less than 80% duty cycle @ 600-650HP (Phase 2B of the project).

I got a big box with 60 lbs of "turbo stuff" delivered today (It's like Christmas time in May!), so I will go open the box later and see what everything looks like. I'll try to post some pictures later.

That's about it for now.....

Thanks,
Nick.

I looked everywhere on the site and there is not one place with an e-mail contact, a contact us page, or telephone #!

Does anyone have any idea how to contact these folks? Also being they're outside the US has anyone within the US ordered Nistune and if so were there any duties due for the product?

Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

http://www.nistune.com/ordering.htm

On that page there is a link for "enquiries@nistune.com"

Just remember, you will need to use an emulator like an Ostrich to use NisTune with a VH ECU.

Yes I know on the Ostrich2 - I was looking at their site and they have a bundle of tunerpro, etc. with ostrich. It seemed like Nistune had a lot more features to make tuning a little easier. Now I need to justify the extra cost compared to the features - so I need to do some more homework.

Thanks again bud.

Nick.

"Hi Shane

You will only need to purchase the Moates Ostrich 2 emulator from http://www.moates.net and our software ($208AUD including paypal to orders@nistune.com)

You are able to perform live tuning using the emulator, and maptrace/guages are provided from the consult port

Our Type 2 boards doesnt support VH45DE so emulation is the only option available, but works about the same within our software

You can load in any BIN you want to your emulator via NIStune and go with that

regards
Matt"

I'm still a little unclear how it will work. For instance, are we actually editing the bin from their software? How does their software know what addresses are used on this ECU? I'm also not sold on the expense for what you get. By just getting the Ostrich 2 and some free software you can do real time tuning. I guess the only real advantage I can see is that you can do the map trace and tuning all from one program, assuming you edit the bin from Nistune. I guess I need to send them another email and ask...

Modified by qsiguy at 6:12 PM 5/30/2008

Shane,

This if from their ordering page:
"All orders must have an vehicle name, model, year and ECU part number
Part numbers are 23710-xxxxx and / or Axx-xxx-xxx as pictured below.
This is so we know what ROM image to put in your board.

We do not have all ROM images. Some might need to be downloaded from your stock factory ECU using a CONSULT cable and then sent to us for programming"

Not sure how this image interfaces with Ostrich as I believe moates requires the same info when you order. It is clear as day though that they have a picture of the ECM and the ostrich HW interconnected on the website. Let me know what you find out and I'll inquire as well and report back. I hope this helps, I'm a noob when it comes to the specifics of engine management - I'm a quick study though .

Please advise.

Thanks,
Nick.

Modified by npez at 8:46 PM 5/30/2008

Thanks,
Nick.

I started reading the NisTune manual and this thing is an integration "gem" - I'm really thinking of buying it. I think our answer on "how they do it" with the Ostrich2 lies in this screen shot from the manual. If you look at all the individual components this single tool integrates it is trully amazing. I agree with you, just glancing at the other tools, that all function can be collectively performed across the various tools, the "niche" of NisTune appears to be integrating everything into one place.

Here's the screen shot:

I am really close to just "biting the bullet" and buying NisTune with Ostrich2 and calling it a day. I'll sleep on it and make the final decision tomorrow.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks,
Nick.