Car runs like new...here's what I did

[Thor]

First off, hello to everyone (this being my initial post)!

I purchased my 1990 240 10 months ago for $1100 (body and interior in great condition - no rust, dents, good paint, interior, etc.) from my boss's wife. Although she took excellent care of the "looks" of the car, she was obviously not too fond of tune-ups. While on the test drive the clutch catastrophically failed (blew apart:D ). We had the car towed to my home (I wanted to thoroughly check it out). Initially selling the car for $3500, I was able to purchase the vehicle "as is." Besides the clutch, the car stumbled, had oil throughout the engine compartment, and was difficult to start. They assumed it was on its last legs. Currently, after removing/cleaning/polishing everthing under the hood the car runs like new...idles perfectly, drives great, etc. Here's what I did:

- Replaced fuel pump (OEM)- Cleaned fuel tank (took off and washed)- Changed fuel filter- Changed Coil (OEM)- Plugs (NGK), wires, dist., rotor- Changed air filter (K&N)- Replaced O2 Sensor (Bosch OEM)- Replaced Clutch (OEM)- Changed front and rear main seal- Replaced shocks (OEM)- Cleaned throttle body

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY- Carbon cleaned engine and fuel system

This last bullet is the my main emphasis for this post. I've spent the last year rebuilding my '88 Corvette. Amongst the V8 crew I associate with there is a great product that we swear by. NAPA Autoparts sells SEAFOAM which is a petroleum based liquid that completely cleans the inside of your engine, fuel system, injectors, and crank case.

I bought 3 bottles ($6.00 each) for my Nissan. Pour 1 bottle into your valve cover through the oil filler cap and 1 bottle into the near empty gas tank (add 10 gallons of gas). Drive the car normally until you have used up all of the gas (then refuel your car as normal). Change your oil and oil filter. At this point your injectors and valves should be clean (normal injector cleaners purchased at autoparts stores really don't do anything).

The next step involves disconnecting the break booster hose at the break booster. Insert a funnel into the end of the hose. Turn on the car and let idle. Slowly pour 1/3 of the 3rd bottle of SEAFOAM into the funnel with the car idling (pour very slowly, the car will run very rough while you do this). After doing this, turn the car off. Wait for 15 min. Turn the car back on and let idle. Black smoke will billow from your tail pipe for several minutes depending on how much carbon is in your engine (20 min. in my case). I actually did this last step 3 times (used the entire bottle).

At this point your entire engine should be clean...HOWEVER, your spark plugs and O2 sensor is probably covered from the thick black smoke! I changed the plugs and sensor at this point.

Voila! My car has noticable improvements in horsepower and idles like new...doesn't surge...sits like a rock at 750 RPM's.

As a side note, my car has 200+ thousand miles on it! I questioned whether or not removing the carbon would cause more problems than fix, i.e. create oil leaks. It did not.

Take from this post what you will. I've used it in many cars...works like a dream everytime. Most improvement is obviously gained on higher mile engines.

Thanks for reading,Dave

[Repo Man]

Welcome to NICO, Dave.

I've heard that Seafoam makes excellent products. I may have to do that after another 60 or 70k!

How quick is that 'Vette? I was a previous SBC owner. It was in the form of a 406ci '72 Camaro. It, unfortunately, was carb'ed but fun nonetheless.

Andy

[Thor]

Repo Man,Not sure how fast the vette is...the engine is installed but hasn't yet run. Chris, owner of Speed Demon Motorsports http://www.speeddemonmotorsports.com (Houston, Texas) is currently tunning the chip for the ECM. He is expecting 430 HP/450 TQ at the rear wheels...15% reduction (standard for these cars) puts that at around 500 HP at the flywheel and a bit more for Torque.

I'm not going to run the car with slicks on the 1/4 mile with the stock transmission. It's kind of a weird manual trans. From '84 - '88 they came with the 4+3 manual - Doug Nash Super T10 manual with 3 overdrives - the equivalent of a 7 speed. It will handle street tires fine...but I'll need to drop in a ZF6 speed to be safe.

In the mean time I'm enjoying my Nissan. I went from working every day on the vette to a stand still once I sent it to Houston. So, I made it my goal to bring the engine compartment of the 240 to better than new conditions. Although no one ever looks under the hood except me: every metal pieces have been brought to a gleaming shine with metal polish, no dirt of any sorts, hoses treated with Tire Gel (works very well), and countless hours laying on my back under the car removing all road grime. It's a thankless task.:rolleyes

SEAFOAM = :ylsuper

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

What do you recommend to take off the road grime underneath the car? That is one of my goals as well. However, not until my SR gets here and I have my KA out, then I'm going to clean up the engine bay and underside as well. What works best? Soap and elbow grease?

[Thor]

SWIFT_DRIFT,Ah, the joys of cleaning road grime:ylsuper I love it!

For the underside of the car, especially the front half, your main enemies are oil, grease, tar, and dirt. Your secodary enemy is road kill spatter. The first step: find a power washer or steam cleaner...I have neither, therefore, I drive myself to the self-help car wash (preferably one in a remote, secluded area at 3 A.M.) Spray engine cleaner (I use cans of Gunk cleaner) on all metal parts. Then, pressure wash as much "stuff" as possible. Everything else gets cleaned, with pains-taking detail, with multiple rolls of shop towels, a tooth brush, bottles of Simple Green, and metal polish (only if you care whether of not your steering knuckles, drive shaft, etc. are shiny).

I'm a bit of a fanatic though. Inside of the engine compartment I would rather remove accessories to clean the compartment walls and the entire item than just cleaning what is visible.

I justify my methodical cleaning compulsion by figuring it's easier to detect problems with a clean car....rather than testing which is the newest oil leak. By the way, please don't assume this fanatical way I have with cars carries over to my domicile! That only occurs, maybe, once a month!:eek:

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

Hey Thor, thanks. I pretty much figured that's what you did, cuz me and my dad use the same stuff on our cars. I just haven't worried too much about cleaning my underbelly up yet because I'm getting a new engine in Oct. and pulling out my old one soon, so I figured I'd wait till it was pulled and jacked up on stands to make it a lot easier to access the underside. All I have to say is saving my old toothbrushes is the wisest thing I've ever done, I love to clean with those puppies

[blackbeauty240]

thanks for the seafoam idea.:ylsuper

[skydragoness]

that seafoam stuff sounds good, although i don't think i want to try it myself, let someone more experienced do it, rather. is 85k too soon on my car?

my gearbox definitely needs some lubing, that's for sure, i feel some resistance in 2nd and 3rd gears, someone recommended (on a previous post) Amsoil, but i can't find it in stores and i don''t feel like purchasing it online (time issue), i was thinking of using Lucas Lubricant instead, since that's readily available to buy.

one of the things that made me cringe when i bought my car was the dirtiness under the engine, previous oil leak i assume(fixed), and grime everywhere, my previous car, a 93'--was cleaner! I think i'll leave that mess to a detail shop, i'm a real neat freak when it comes to my car, i'll probably do the above engine cleaning myself

anyhow, i digress

welcome to the board Dave! :wavey

[I H8 UR DSM]

my gearbox definitely needs some lubing, that's for sure

Oh, did i ever tell you i love you skydragon : D

[I H8 UR DSM]

:cuddle

[skydragoness]

:wiggle

no, not that i recall.......

[I H8 UR DSM]

well let me know if you need some help 'lubing up your gearbox'

[skydragoness]

:naughty ok Mr.

[SPIRO]

Break booster? break booster hose? Sorry if i sound stupid or ignorant saying this but what the hell is that?

[Thor]

The break booster is located (standing at the front of the car looking into the engine compartement) on the right side (driver's side), against the firewall, towards the top. It's approximately 8-10" in diameter (circular) and 1-2" thick. The intake manifold sucks air through a hose connecting to the break booster in order to create a vacuum.

Anyways, the vacuum line is the rubber 1/4" diameter hose running from this circular booster, along the back of the valve cover and connecting to the intake manifold.

When using the SEAFOAM, I still a small funnel into the end of this hose after I disconnect it from the break booster (makes it easier).

[TrueSlide]

Yes, Seafoam does wonders, I just did it the other day, I put it in a plastic cup, un did break booster hose, and let it suck up the seafoam till it killed my car, started up a few seconds later did it again, did it about 3 times and let it sit for about 20 minutes, this lets it cling/wash/destroy dirt/oil/etc on piston tops, cylinders, valves, etc. and after the 20 minutes, plug brake booster back up and start the car, IT WILL SMOKE AND STINK AND CLEAN THE HELL OUT OF YOUR ENGINE!! It will smoke about a good 10-15 minutes, try reving the motor a few times and watch all the clouds of smoke come out. And after its all done your engine runs better and cleaner and feels almost new. BTW the extra seafoam I had I ran through my gas to clean injectors. Then replaced plugs and o2 sensor. Thor is right it does wonders

[Zebrahead]

*Bump*

Where's teh brake line located?

Nick.

[Lepchitz1]

i think im gonna trey that this weekend...do you have to get a new 02 sensor?

[Thor]

There are 3 ways of using Seafoam:

1. Pour it into your valve cover - as if you were adding oil. This only effects the oil...change the oil and oil filter.2. Pour it into the gas tank (when empty, then fill with gas) - this will not effect anything...no secondary action needed.3. Pour it into the brake booster hose with car running - details in previous posts...depending on how dirty your engine's "internals" are you may or may not need to replace the spark plugs and O2 sensor...chances are you will need to install new ones.

[Luke]

I did your instructions, it really did make a difference.

[Two-Forty]

how can you tell if you need a new o2 sensor, I mean looking at it physically, what signs can you see that tells you. also where can I buy seafoam at, what store do they sell it at.

[Thor]

Seafoam is available at NAPA Autoparts.

[Zebrahead]

Where is the break booster line located?

Nick.

[Thor]

One of my earlier posts tells where the brake booster line is...page 1.

[Two-Forty]

do RS strauss have seafoam?

[Thor]

do RS strauss have seafoam?

??? ??? not sure who RS strauss is.

[skydragoness]

Hey Thor or anybody else..

um, is it good enough to just pour the Seafoam down the throttle body instead? I can't find the break booster hose that fits your description. Or the line coming from my short ram intake good enough?

[singlecamhonduhkilla]

my cars not running but if anyone can ever figure out how to get it back up and running.. can i use this seafoam to get my engine back to normal if not betterjoe

[Bay Dog]

No, the seafoam won't fix the issues you have with your car, however, it MAY prevent them from happening as quickly with your new engine.

[bruinbear714]

Where else can this sea foam be purchase? Local or online, I don't care