You're pretty much wrong about everything...lol. Sorry but I don't sugar coat things to well. Lets start by forgetting everything you think you know or someone else told you. That way we have a fresh slate
My suggestion would be to gather all of the parts you'll need to install the turbo and have in running in 1 weekend. Once you have all the parts, install them on the motor that's already in the car and running well. I say this because many things can change during a swap. Trust me, something always changes or gets broke, be it vacuum or whatever. You have a strong running motor now and it has no known issues, that's where you want to start. If you want to build a spare motor to have just in case that's a good idea.
Parts you're going to need in order to get your car running under boost:1, eBay bottom mount manifold2, T25 from the SR3, elbow piece that connects the turbo to the downpipe - also found on ebay4, oil line kit for the T255, oil return bung will need to welded to your oil pan, use a spare pan6, FMIC kit with piping7, FMU 6:1 - this will handle all of your fuel needs -
http://www.summitracing.com8, 255lph fuel pump -
http://www.summitracing.com 9, Bosch bypass valve -
http://www.summitracing.com10, boost gauge11, retard the timing at the dizzy 2 degree's
That's it...
The wastegate controls how much exhaust energy builds up inside the manifold. Each wastegate, be it internal or external, has a spring or diaphragm inside that automatically opens when it see's a certain amount of boost pressure. When the turbo reaches whatever predetermined amount of boost, in your case 7-8 psi, the wastegate opens and vents exhaust energy. This allows the turbo to maintain one set boost pressure. Without a wastegate the turbo would just keep building boost. The wastegate see's boost via a vacuum line, when it see's 7-8 psi from the line it opens.
The boost controller, be it electric or manual, goes between the vacuum source and the wastegate. The controller keeps the wastegate from opening by "hiding" the boost pressure. It's just a matter of stopping the wastegate from opening until the turbo has reached whatever PSI you're wanting to run. In your case you don't want to run more then the stock setting on the T25 which is 7-8 psi. You don't want to run more then 7-8 psi unless you use a larger turbo and invest in better fuel and ignition management.
In short, the wastegate controls exhaust energy in the manifold and the controller can adjust when the wastegate opens to increase the amount of exhaust energy that passes through the turbo. More exhaust going through the turbo means the turbine wheel win spin faster increasing the boost pressure output from the compressor section of the turbo. Sounds complicated...it isn't.
The list I gave you lets you keep the stock MAF and injectors. The FMU will increase fuel pressure 6 psi for every 1 psi of boost pressure it see's. This enables the stock injectors to flow enough fuel to support the added boost pressure. BUT, you should never run more then 8 psi because the fuel pressure at the injectors is just to high if you run more. However, the FMU is a good match for the T25 because they both have the same limits. The FMU is plug and play so no tuning is required, it's also only $125 new. Again, use
http://www.summitracing.com to source one.
The first list are things I consider mandatory. Here are a few things you should invest in as you save cash.
1, wideband O2 meter2, oil pressure gauge3, water temp gauge4, overboost kill switch - there's a guide in the "info sticky"5, fuel pressure gauge
Ok...questions? Don't be afraid to ask anything, everyone is a noob at some point...lol. I've made my share of really stupid mistakes
WD