building a KA-T (WHAT MOTOR WILL HE CHOOSE NEXT?!)

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
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93 Chuki FB
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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ok i have a 89 coupe that i swapped to a 95 KA24DE and its all finished and i drive it everyday with no problems. I wanna go KA-T but i need a DD, so i looked for a shell and i found one for $150 with title but the rear QP is f***ed beyond belief. But i did some thinking, the car would be a track car only, so f*** it, i bought the car. i have 3 dohc KA'S each has its own problem, #1 has no compression, #2 is in pieces, #3 barely turns over (i think the crank is messed up) but has a brand new head. The point of this whole thing is to make a reliable KA-T with the least amount of money spent (17yrs old, no job) i have so many parts i can sell them to fund the project. So after hrs of research im still left with more questions then answers, my plan: take the bottom end of motor #2 and put the head of motor#3 on it and use motor #1 for parts, problem 1, how do i remove the timing chain. More of the plan: as far as management goes i heard i could use a stock SR20DET ecu, i wanna use a stock SR turbo and a eBay exhaust manifold along with a FMIC kit, i have no clue on what i need to do as far as wiring, and can i use the stock MAF?? what would be a good boost controller? and how do i wire up the boost gauge and water temp gauge? would i need a wide band 02 sensor? im looking for 6-8 psi of boost. I have gotten good enough at drifting that the only thing that holding me back is power so any help is appreciated


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WDRacing
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I'll put some thought into this, I'm pretty busy right now. You're a little off info wise...lol. I'll give you a good plan to follow in the AM tomorrow.

WD


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93 Chuki FB
Posts: 185
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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thanks for the help, today i learned were the oil lines go and what i need to do to put them on. I also learned that some boost controllers are mechanical, is the stock SR turbo already have a mechanical boost controller? today i removed the cams out of motor #3 and i snapped the exhaust cam so now at this point i know that i removed the chain wrong but i still got it off, i have enough cams that this loss isnt gonna effect any progress. Also i learned that a boost controller and a waste gate are the same thing, this is starting to make more sense to me as i go along, BTW pics of both cars and motors will be up soon. I still want to know if i can use the stock SR ecu

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WDRacing
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You're pretty much wrong about everything...lol. Sorry but I don't sugar coat things to well. Lets start by forgetting everything you think you know or someone else told you. That way we have a fresh slate

My suggestion would be to gather all of the parts you'll need to install the turbo and have in running in 1 weekend. Once you have all the parts, install them on the motor that's already in the car and running well. I say this because many things can change during a swap. Trust me, something always changes or gets broke, be it vacuum or whatever. You have a strong running motor now and it has no known issues, that's where you want to start. If you want to build a spare motor to have just in case that's a good idea.

Parts you're going to need in order to get your car running under boost:1, eBay bottom mount manifold2, T25 from the SR3, elbow piece that connects the turbo to the downpipe - also found on ebay4, oil line kit for the T255, oil return bung will need to welded to your oil pan, use a spare pan6, FMIC kit with piping7, FMU 6:1 - this will handle all of your fuel needs - http://www.summitracing.com8, 255lph fuel pump - http://www.summitracing.com 9, Bosch bypass valve - http://www.summitracing.com10, boost gauge11, retard the timing at the dizzy 2 degree's

That's it...

The wastegate controls how much exhaust energy builds up inside the manifold. Each wastegate, be it internal or external, has a spring or diaphragm inside that automatically opens when it see's a certain amount of boost pressure. When the turbo reaches whatever predetermined amount of boost, in your case 7-8 psi, the wastegate opens and vents exhaust energy. This allows the turbo to maintain one set boost pressure. Without a wastegate the turbo would just keep building boost. The wastegate see's boost via a vacuum line, when it see's 7-8 psi from the line it opens.

The boost controller, be it electric or manual, goes between the vacuum source and the wastegate. The controller keeps the wastegate from opening by "hiding" the boost pressure. It's just a matter of stopping the wastegate from opening until the turbo has reached whatever PSI you're wanting to run. In your case you don't want to run more then the stock setting on the T25 which is 7-8 psi. You don't want to run more then 7-8 psi unless you use a larger turbo and invest in better fuel and ignition management.

In short, the wastegate controls exhaust energy in the manifold and the controller can adjust when the wastegate opens to increase the amount of exhaust energy that passes through the turbo. More exhaust going through the turbo means the turbine wheel win spin faster increasing the boost pressure output from the compressor section of the turbo. Sounds complicated...it isn't.

The list I gave you lets you keep the stock MAF and injectors. The FMU will increase fuel pressure 6 psi for every 1 psi of boost pressure it see's. This enables the stock injectors to flow enough fuel to support the added boost pressure. BUT, you should never run more then 8 psi because the fuel pressure at the injectors is just to high if you run more. However, the FMU is a good match for the T25 because they both have the same limits. The FMU is plug and play so no tuning is required, it's also only $125 new. Again, use http://www.summitracing.com to source one.

The first list are things I consider mandatory. Here are a few things you should invest in as you save cash.

1, wideband O2 meter2, oil pressure gauge3, water temp gauge4, overboost kill switch - there's a guide in the "info sticky"5, fuel pressure gauge

Ok...questions? Don't be afraid to ask anything, everyone is a noob at some point...lol. I've made my share of really stupid mistakes

WD


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93 Chuki FB
Posts: 185
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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wow!! i really appreciate the help, so i can use the stock ECU?? and the only good DOHC KA i have is in my DD coupe, but i pulled the bottom end on motor #2 and the bearing are good (my friend used some weird plastic stuff to check them) and i pressure washed the head (it sat outside with no valve cover so debris got in it, the cams were removed) and motor #3 has a brand new chain and tensioners so im gonna throw the motor back together. I bought that coupe, all i have to do is go pick it up from the on Monday. So is this the FMU? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VOR-6Z110-113/

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WDRacing
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Yes you can use the stock ECU.

Yup that's the FMU

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93 Chuki FB
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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WDRacing
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Yup, that's the correct type of bypass valve

I'll look up some other parts later...I'm trying to get my damn S14 started

WD

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93 Chuki FB
Posts: 185
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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thanks dude, all this help has sent my confidence through the roof

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93 Chuki FB
Posts: 185
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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hey i still dont know how to remove the timing chain right, ive tried looking but all that comes up is how to fix the rattle. This is a noob question but how do i remove the pulley on the crank shaft?? the head is off the motor so their is no resistance and its being a pita!!!!

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hannibal
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I dont know, but the first place I'd look is the FSM.

Get it here if you dont have one...http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/

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93 Chuki FB
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Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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hannibal wrote:I dont know, but the first place I'd look is the FSM.

Get it here if you dont have one...http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/
i have no clue on how to use it sorry guys im a super noob when it comes to turbos and computer stuff

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93 Chuki FB
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Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:02 pm
Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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i think ive decided to turbo my sohc, it runs, but it has 253,000 miles on it, head was rebuilt at 220,000 miles, but it ran perfect and didnt burn any oil and has decent compression

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93 Chuki FB
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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so today i looked at my friends turbo eclipse and i got to see all the parts up close and were they go so i feel much better anyway the build will start Monday (that's when i pick up my shell)

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WDRacing
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So the motor you're boosting is the SOHC? What?

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93 Chuki FB
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Location: Lynwood WA

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yeah, it came out of my car and it was always adult driven until i got it, but it runs perfect doesn't smoke, no ticks or weird noises and never overheated, but the reason im doing the sohc is cause its complete, i know it runs good, i have all the parts to swap it and i can build my DOHC in the mean time and swap all the turbo parts over to that when its done, i wanna have this thing done by the middle of April and boosting the sohc is the only its gonna happen. Anyway im assuming that boosting the sohc is no different and the only thing im changing is the exhaust manifold right?

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WDRacing
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The SOHC doesn't have a turbo manifold that allows for the use of the SR T25 and downpipe etc...not that I know of anyway.

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93 Chuki FB
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Location: Lynwood WA

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

i found this today, ok im still confused on what i have to do for the bug on the oil pan

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PyR0NiAk
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93 Chuki FB wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

i found this today, ok im still confused on what i have to do for the bug on the oil pan
I can honestly say that I've never seen a side-mount manifold before. Using that means you're going to need a custom fabricated downpipe and everything...

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93 Chuki FB
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Location: Lynwood WA

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really? ive seen a couple of those manifolds now, anyway i sent the guy that made EL cheepo KA an email about modifying my stock manifold, also i found a deal on a turbo but it came off a volvo 240, he wants $50 for it. He said its a 12b turbo (i have no clue what this means) so can anybody tell if i can use it? also he said it has moderate shaft play, what does that mean?

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93 Chuki FB
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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i found the turbo im getting tomorrow http://seattle.craigslist.org/....html

it came off a Subaru

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PyR0NiAk
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93 Chuki FB wrote:also he said it has moderate shaft play, what does that mean?
Probably needs a rebuild... If you check the classifieds on here and "that other site" you'll most likely find a decent T25 from someone who built an SR. Hell, I'd sell you mine, but my brother is using it for his KA-T project.

The price on the T25 from the Subaru seems kind of high... I've definitely seen them go for under $80...

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93 Chuki FB
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Location: Lynwood WA

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well its an STi turbo and for $100 its not bad, will it work for my setup?

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If you can weld using parts like that is fine. If you can't then you'll have to pay someone to do custom fabrication. Lots of things, like the output flange from the scoobie turbo, I don't even know where to get one. The input flange isn't standard T2 either, so the manifold will have to have a custom flange welded on also. Then there's the downpipe that will have to be fabbed. The car will need to be in the shop for most of this to be done.

I learned to weld early in my DIY days because it makes everything easier. I don't weld great, but I can make things stick and stay together...just takes some grinding to make things pretty

Anyway, thats a touch off topic.

If you go the SOHC route I'd suggest buying the entire JGS SOHC turbo kit. It's $1746 but comes with a great turbo and everything you'll need besides the FMIC kit.

WD

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93 Chuki FB
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Location: Lynwood WA

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i would buy a turbo kit but that's way out of my budget, and i think i can use this turbo with the side mount manifold i found on Ebay, so if worst comes to worst im gonna sell the turbo and buy a different one that fits. Im still confused on what to do for the oil bug on the oil pan

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PyR0NiAk
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If less than $2000 is out of your budget, I suggest you wait and do some saving...

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Doya
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PyR0NiAk wrote:If less than $2000 is out of your budget, I suggest you wait and do some saving...
You could also take that time to do some more research. You don't really sound like you know what your doing

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PyR0NiAk
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Doya wrote: You could also take that time to do some more research. You don't really sound like you know what your doing
Love the avatar Doya.

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93 Chuki FB
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe, EMUSA coilovers, 1 piece drive line, welded diff, S14 KA24DE swap, 10lb flywheel, Modern rims with 10mm spacers, rear sub frame spacers, steering rack spacers.
Location: Lynwood WA

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well that's not happening, i will admit i don't know what im doing but its fine, if i mess up then ive learned my lesson. Also there is somebody on this forum that's using the same turbo, that's why i decided to buy it, im gonna make a straight pipe exhaust from scratch and the turbo wont take that much to make it work . Anyway, this turbo is a IHI T25 turbo, and its f***ing small, the pipe were the boost comes out is only like an inch and half in diameter and its facing toward the engine block but i will figure something out to make it bend back around.

ztuner34
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so you have a ka24e ? not a ka24de ?

*EDIT*

No off site linking please, especially when all the info you listed is already on Nico.


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