Here is the motor:

It's an S14 sr20, and just so everyone isn't arguing about the turbo size by getting it confused with a blacktop, it is in fact a gt28 and not a 25.

I purchased it from Heavy Throttle back in February. I knew i was paying a good bit more from buying it there but I have heard nothing but good things about them, and they've got warranties on their motors so i decided i couldn't lose! Plus, Jeff hooked me up with so many parts so i've gotta say i am very pleased so far.

Now on to the build. I was being fairly rushed from the get go, which i hate since i like to examine everything and take my time to make sure everything is exactly how i want it; so the engine bay didn't get painted black like i wanted, but thats fine since the factory paint still looks pretty clean.
anyway, here's the motor all assembled and ready to go in!:

Current Specs:
Stock s14 block with new rear main seal and new gaskets besides the head. I plan on building the motor once i have a reason to pull it apart so i'm not worried about having the original head gasket.
Fidanza 10lb flywheel
Spec stage 3 clutch
GReddy knock off intake plenum. I want to get a JUN style intake and larger throttle body when i get some extra cash
KOYO Aluminum Radiator
Permacool electric fan
Megan Racing aluminum pulleys
Megan Racing Dumptube
Megan Racing Turbo Manifold :/
SARD 550cc injectors
GReddy M-Spec FMIC
Project Nissan motor and tranny mounts
HKS SSQV Blow off valve
Autometer Boost and Oil gauges
Apex-i turbo timer
.... i think thats about it. i'm sure i'm forgetting some things but oh well

the motor going in. it was just me and the dude in this picture doing the install.... not too fun:

Once the motor was in, I did all the harness splicing and whatnot and then went to plug in all the hoses and electrical plugs. After being very uncertain of my work, i did a bunch of research and made some phone calls to find out i hooked most of the hoses up way wrong..... but i figured it all out and now i know exactly where everything goes. here's when i had it all wrong:

then i couldn't get my intercooler piping fitted up the right way, and i don't have a welder so i couldn't make it how i wanted it. So i went to lowes and spent $11.50 on some pvc piping and made a mock up of what my piping should be like:

it fit PERFECT!! exactly the way it should have fit. So i took it to the local muffler shop and got them to make me some piping based on the pvc. Bad idea. They used the wrong diameter tubing from what i told them, the bends were **** and the piping was way heavy. So that was $30 wasted.
I got tired of effing around with stuff like that and made my self a nice little list of everything i should order to get this project done right.
So i went online, searched around, and ordered some more stuff. here is what i got/ have left to get:
I didn't have the plugs for my injectors, i just shaved my stocks ones to fit which was pretty cheap, so i called up Denso and ordered 4 new couplers and terminals which only cost me $19 shipped. Good deal
Nismo low temp thermostat
New S14 FMIC piping kit
Got myself a drift knob to flash out my interior a bit
and i still need a boost controller since the one i rigged up is actually a valve for air tools, a 1 piece driveshaft, and possibly a catch can.
Within the next few days i will be ordering S30 fender flares and new wheels from Diamond Racing. I'm pretty sure i'm going for 16x9's all around, but i may go with a 10 in the rear. 9" is a custom size and costs me an extra $75 per wheel since they have to cut down a 10" and make it into a 9. They also gave me an explanation which led me to believe that doing this will weaken the wheel. Let me know if you've got any suggestions on the wheels.

So having nearly everything on order, i decided to do some engine bay work while i'm waiting. The first thing i aimed to do was a wire tuck. I've never done one before so i'm still trying to figure out the best ways to route everything. Here's how it looks so far:

I haven't really done any tucking yet, I just started taking everything out that i wanted to move so that i have some sort of a goal of what i want. If you've got any ideas or suggestions on how i should go about doing this then PLEASE leave some!! :D thanks.

Then i removed the intake plenum because i needed to fix some hoses that were hard to get to, and i removed all my ABS components. I realized that the ABS brake master cylinder is different than an non ABS one in that it only has 2 hose connections where as a non-ABS has 3, so I will need a new master cylinder and I'm going to go ahead an get a new brake booster while i'm at it just so i wont have to worry about the old one seizing up on me.
Anyway... thats how she sits right now. Can't wait to get the tuck and the ABS removal done so i can focus on getting everything hooked up and running. I don't plan on going anywhere until i get my wheels set up the way i want either so if you guys think a 16x10 in the rear would be a better decision than 16x9's all around then let me know. thanks!!!
and please leave some, i want to know what you all think!

Need a website? A banner? Any kind of artwork? Shoot me an e-mail!

.......you changed nothing? your still running a 4 cylinder......and an SR.....

hatch = Sr Swap...this thread
Coupe = Not this thread...This Thread http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=306146

Modified by SkunX at 7:44 PM 9/12/2008

looks good
i like the valve cover

paint your engine bay, dont cut corners

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=354607

yeah i want to but like i said i was being rushed. it was because the car was in my friends garage and we needed it out, but i ended up towing it to my garage at my house anyway so it was a waste. I still want to paint it but the motor is already in :/

looks so sad.... I took the fenders off so i can try to get a better idea of where to route these wires when i do the tuck. Hopefully everything turns out good!

and here is what i ended up with before i called it a night:

It actually turned out better than what i expected. Hopefully the black will look nice and clean :D

a lot better man!

dont do it for the approval of the forum, but isnt more satisfactory now that is painted?

it looks great

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...2.htm
^Talent^

I still need to route the new brake lines since removed ABS and put in a non ABS master cylinder. I'm thinking about getting all stainless braided lines to replace the clutch and brake lines and routing them all straight down and then branching them off under the car. Let me know what you guys think!

Then I decided to get to going on my fusebox relocate so i can get my wire tuck on the road. Here is a little write up on how I did it:

I started off on the drivers side because it seemed much easier than the passengers side. I figured if i could do this then i would gain enough knowledge in the process to do the other side :D Anyway, I had to take off the fusebox covers to fit it through that hole that the harness runs through. Of course i had to take the rubber cover off the hole first. It wouldn't get out of the way like i needed it to so i just cut it since I won't be able to use it afterward anyway because of how the wires go. You'll see.
Here is the box and wires through the hole:

Then I sanded down a part of the frame and drilled a hole to relocate the ground wire:

Then i grabbed some cable ties and used them to mount the fuse box right underneath where it was originally placed at the factory:

And here is how it looks now. This is also a shot of my custom intake. The piping i used made for a perfect fit :D

So by this time I'm feeling confident enough to tackle the passengers side fuse box. I have already removed the windshield wiper reservoir because there was no room for it with the FMIC piping. My friend already made a mock up of what i will be using for a wiper reservoir which i will be posting a write up for the next time i make an update :D

This is how it started:

Now even after removing the covers, the fuses in the box stood much higher than the drivers side box did, so before stuffing everything back through the hole i had to disassemble the fuse box entirely:

As I took the fuses out i placed them in the cover exactly the way they needed to go back in. That way i wouldn't have to search through my manual to figure out how they all go:

And here is the box through the hole and reassembled. It took quite a while to get all the wire and everything through the hole, but you have to be patient and take your time or something could get messed up:

Then I drilled some holes and relocated the grounds just like i did with the other box:

I used the bracket that is used to hold the wiper reservoir to hold the fuse box with zip ties. Then i wrapped the fuse box with zip ties and ran them up through the holes in the battery tray. That thing is in there sturdy as a brick now :D
And here is what it looks like afterward:

haha, and now i'm gonna tease you and not show you how clean the bay is just yet
I really wanna wait until i get my harness completed and tucked before i post any more pics of the bay, haha. Here is what my harness looks like right now:

Before I hear anything about "thats a bad idea, they are gonna get wet... Why didn't you cover them up with something to keep water out!?!?" Don't worry, I'm going to make a splash guard for them, i just didn't get a chance to go to lowes and get some sheet plastic. I'll post more pics tomorrow.

I'm hoping to have all my plugs extended tomorrow, but thats a lot of soldering so I'm not sure how long it's gonna take. I've already extended my fuse box plugs, MAF plug and the injector harness plugs.
The only thing i REALLY need is a picture of the transmission plugs on the stock KA harness and the Knock sensor plug on my s14 sr20 harness, because i don't have a plug coming off the knock sensor wire, so i don't know what the plug it's supposed to connect to looks like. So if anyone has any info or pics of these, PLEASE post them up! thanks :D!!!
Thats all for now! Have a good night everyone :]
-Matty

Modified by Touge' at 11:24 PM 9/21/2008

===> Eric

the wire tuck is done. i'm very staisfied, looks even better than i hoped :D FMIC piping is all done, and i replaced all the worm gear clamps with t-clamps and i am now in the process of replacing all the hardlines with stainless steel braided lines. Also, i had a problem with gettin power to the car but it's all figured out. Still haven't started it up yet, i have to extend the alternator and starter wires first. Expect a start up soon!
thats all for now though. check back tomorrow or so, i should have pics by then!
-Matty!

staisfied <===> Satisfied

Low Budget Battery Relocation:
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=212386

Connecting ends together:
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=216236
(like i said though, to be safer just tape it when u finish)

If you opt for 0-4 awg stereo wire for more flexable install:
http://www.installer.com/cable/

Breaker?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/100AMP-CIR...l1116

where that O is is a hole and i was gonna put a grommet with the wires to seal it.

minus all the extra crap he has...i wanted to set up some CBreakers and Fusebox near the battery...

with what little i know with electronics, its best to put breakers, fuse, fusible links, etc nearest to the source...it helps protect the long wires...

Now here comes the update...
okay so i got my camera back. nice! i've got a bunch of pics.

Okay so i'll start off with my odyssey battery coming in the mail. That thing is sweet. It's so light it's crazy, you wouldn't think something like that could put out 680cca.

So that's exciting.. Then i put my windshield wiper reservoir together. Here's what i did.
- Got a bottle of NOS energy drink
- Used a big *** drill bit and put a hole in the bottom of the bottle
- Squeezed the motor assembly into the hole and ka pow!

Pretty cool :D

So then I had a pretty long night friday, which was the last time I had taken any pics.
First I finished extending any wires that i needed to in order to make my wire tuck work. Soldered and shrink wrapped, good deal. I also had to put new connectors on my knock sensor wires because i cut my plug a while ago for a ridiculously stupid reason. Anyway here's how that turned out, with some wires scattered across my bay before i did the tuck

New knock sensor plugs:

Wires everywhere:

Then my friends decided to do some sick modding to my car while i wasn't paying attention.

And so now i have everything hooked up. I went to start it up but the fuel pump is not pushing anything, so as of now I have that out trying to see what the problem is.
Also, I am having stainless steel braided clutch and brake lines running from the master cylinders to the slaves/calipers custom made, as well as a power steering line. Can't wait to get them back :D

Ramdom pics

Before going in for the night:

And after all the long nights of working on my car while maintaining a relationship, i realized i have the best girlfriend ever:

check back later!
-Matty

1. Put a blanket on her. or atleast a tarp

2. Im gonna try to use a Monster energy with the cap thing. But i think few probs might be: Cap might lose ability to twist easily (friction), lack of structure for the aluminum can. But i think wrapping it with some tin/aluminum sheet and jbwelding it on there will help it. then just paint it.

3. I could see your laptop screaming..."AHH IM FALLING!!"

Questions:

1. Did it fire yet?

Here is the car sitting after I shut it off. It still looks a bit smokey in there from the exhaust smoke.

You can tell I took a few things apart from the picture as well. The fuse box is hanging because I had to figure out why the fuel pump wasn't running. I ended up finding the 1 wire that was causing the problem. It was a ground that wasn't getting a completed circuit somewhere further down the harness, so I cut it and installed a switch that acts as a cut off switch. It works. Aaaand the coolant tank is hanging miserably because I haven't decided what to use for my tank or where to put it yet, so that's what happening for now.

Also, my lines got done today :D

One of the brake lines:

Power steering line:

They look really nice, I can't wait to put them all in. I had them all done for about $140

Sooo this week/end I'm planning on getting my timing set right and hopefully getting the motor running good, and I am going to finish tucking/securing any wires that are left. Also, I am re doing anything that is gray in my interior and making it black, taking out my center vents and installing a cluster for my boost/oil/air fuel gauges. Check back for it all

91 Camaro RS build

White Comet Sale
Daytona Blue paint
aftermarket gauges
welded diffs, diff housing and ring gear

If you have your battery relocated to your trunk then I think it would be a smarter place to move them if you ever decided to relocate them.

Quote, originally posted by pauliedrft »

nice work man are you using the s-14 inter cooler set , all you needed was a 60 degree piece to make it fit correctly just wandering because in doing this swap next year on my s-13 hatch .. and i know with the s-13 sr you have to recirculate the bov or the motor wont run correctly do you need to do it with the s-14 also ...

Yup, the 60* was all I needed, but try finding one. You will either have to get one custom made or do what I did and use a pvc 60* elbow that is the same diameter as the piping being used.
As far as the BOV recirculate.... I can not verify this as true, since I have seen a lot of sr20's and hardly any run recirculated. Also, I do not think I have ever seen a notch top with a recirculated BOV, so no I do not think this would affect the way the motor runs. Many people just cap off the recirculation part of their piping like I did.
If you look at the fourth picture in the last post that was made with pics, you can see a white cap on the end of my cold pipe.

Yeah it is. That sounds like a good idea too, I may have to try that. I just took my dash out today.

Quote, originally posted by BrianHarte »

I like your white valve cover.

Thanks! :D

Quote, originally posted by pauliedrft »

Im sorry i wasn't more specific ,as your driving the car and come to a stop or let the throttle close your maf say put this amount of fuel in and the bov let the air go into the atmosphere so it causes you to run rich ,it bogs and will some times die .. my friend has a s-13 black top and has been having the problem .. If not recirculating it works for you then ill try it myself ... Still great work and info but the rest of the inter cooler did fit correctly though ...

Hmmm.... I'm still not sure about that. The BOV isn't opening unless you let off the thro