J14cm7's SR20DET kouki build goes JDM TYTE!

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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J14cm7
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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About a year and a half ago i started looking for an S14. My buddy owns an S13. Its nothing pretty but probably has about 10K worth of parts on it and hes the one that converted me from front wheel drive honda land. The story of this car is one that almost ended in disaster even before it began. Let me start at the beginning.

To make a long story short Cincinnati uses salt which basically turns every 240 around into a rust bucket. So i started checking craigslist in every major city within 1000 miles from here that didnt use salt for an S14 that was in good condition. After about 6 months of searching i found a black 95 240sx (my favorite color) with a blown engine and a nicked up front bumper in Knoxville Tennessee. The rest of the car was rust/dent free. It had been sitting outside for about a year or so but it was perfect for what i wanted since i knew i was doing the sr20 swap.

I borrowed my bosses truck and rented a tow dolly and me and my buddy went on a friday afternoon and got it. We made it there in record time arriving at about 830. The car was jsut as the pictures showed. NO RUST and no major body issues other than the front bumper was dinged up and the headlights severly fogged over but i had already known all that. (sorry i looked but i dont have pics going back that far). The interior was in mint condition except for the radio was gone but i cant complain all i cared about was the body.

So we loaded the car up and of course us being the stupid idiot that we were we loaded it onto the dolly front first not realizing that the transmission still engages at highspeeds. We took off heading back to cincinnati and i started noticing that it seemed very hard on the truck but i didnt think anything of it. We pulled into a gas station for gas and the car reaked of burning transmission fluid.

Fearing the trans would seize up, we pulled of an exit and into a deserted gas station that had a slight hill in the parking lot. We dropped the car off and pulled up behind it and let it roll down the hill onto the dolley.

STUPID IDEA

We took off headed for cincinnati. I really wanted to get home so i pushed it past 70. All of a sudden there are peoples brights being flashed behind me and i look in the rearview and the 240 is weaving violently back and forth taking up the median, my lane, and the middle lane. I slammed on the brakes and immediatly pulled over. My stupid a** had forgotten that trailors sway when there is more weight behind the axle and in this case there was WAY more wieght behind the rear axle. When we pulled over i found one of the straps for the wheels had come lose due to the swaying so that was sweet.

So as you can see this project was almost dead before it started. We ended up driving the whole way back to cinci not being able to go over 50. We didnt get back until 1030 the next morning.

To make this story worse as we were pulling the car into the garage my dad, who lives across the street, was helping me pull the 240 with my 89 toyota 4runner. I was in the toyota and he was in the 240 and a chain was hooked up to the tow hook. Of course the 240 started rolling since part of the driveway is on a slight slope and long story short my dad couldnt hit the brakes in time and since my yoda is lifted the front bumper is perfectly even with the rear tail lights.

Eh i was gonna order koukis anyway.

Since then the 240 has sat safely in the garage. I immediately ordered my engine. i decided on the S14 SR20DET since i knew i wasn't gonna do anything to the engines internals for a while if ever and it had a bit more HP than the s13. Plus it had a nicer turbo and it was jut a newer engine overall overall. I ordered it from a local shop called zerolift. HUGE mistake. After assuring me it would be there the next month it ended up arriving 7 months later. I had to wait 2 more months for the wiring harness and that ended up being f***ed up. I threatened to sue them and got my money back plus 2 new harnesses and i did it myself.

Along with doing the swap i converted it to a manual and took out all the unnecessary automatic transmission wiring and here is all the wires and junk you DONT need after doing the swap/conversion:

Sorry i dont have more pics of the swap and the interior all gutted but i didnt start documenting it until i did the front end conversion. I know i know what an idiot. You can find about 30 walk throughs online if you need pics. So that about brings us up to present day.

So I was doing the conversion on my 95 s14 and i was finishing everything up and then i realized that i would need the 97-98 headlight brackets (97 dollars from Nissan and good luck finding one in a junk yard). Well i dont have much money left after everything i have done to the car so i decided to make my own. here are a couple of pictures. All you need is a welder and about 7 dollars worth of material from home depot. You dont even have to be good at welding in order to do this.

here is the bumper on and one headlight bracket mocked up. Photos of the bumper support will come later.
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side view of head light bracket. surprisingly the thickness of just the square metal stock and a flat peice of sheet metal work without any grinding.
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top view the gap before the bracket is inserted
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what she looks like with everything mocked up and ready to weld
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Here is the individual bracket. If you just drill a hole where the top bolt goes in your headlight then you will be able to just use a longer bolt and run it all the way through your headlight through the bracket and into your original threaded hole. the bolts that hold your power steering reservoir to your firewall are perfect.
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Here is the front bumper support. I didnt like how my bumper wobbled without it so i cut out a section of the original support and used the same material i used to make the headlight brackets with. I just welded it to the top and bottom. then i made a bracket that would connect the bumper retainer to the bumper support so everything is pretty solid and still left plenty of room for the intercooler.
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The bracket that connects the bumper retainer to the top of the bumper support.
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Here i just simply welded some nuts onto the backside of the bumper support where the bumper retainer attaches and there you go a threaded hole. Here is the finished bumper support.
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Well i hope this helps someone out there who wants to save a little money and likes projects. Or at least can give you a few ideas. And if anyone wants to trade for stock headlights my E-mail is [email protected]. Ill give you mine plus cash.
Last edited by J14cm7 on Sun May 01, 2011 4:57 pm, edited 4 times in total.


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J14cm7
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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Sure glad i posted this topic...

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safin
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Black on Gold
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Good Info.

I feel the title is misleading

I thought you were going to do a whole conversion for cheap.

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ZootedS13
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Car: 1990 240sx se

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Black on Gold wrote:Good Info.

I feel the title is misleading

I thought you were going to do a whole conversion for cheap.
me too

can we get a pic of the whole front end assembled? just to see fitment and such

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J14cm7
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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sorry about that it was at 5 in the morning and really didnt have a clear head. I have yet to order the cf hood but i will post pics as soon as i get my tax return and order it. The other thing i forgot to mention was that if you get the kouki headlight brackets im pretty sure my zenki greddy intercooler kit wouldnt mount up anymore. But the headlights gap evenly with the bumper and the headlights go with the line on the bumper.

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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i thought you were gonna put some angry eyelids on a zenki lmao

I want to see the final fitment results!

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J14cm7
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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Here are some updates of the HIDs wired up and everything welded in place. Still waiting to order the cf hood.

P.S. All the cool people have more than 3.5 inches of wheel gap.






Modified by J14cm7 at 5:38 PM 1/20/2010

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yvang07
Posts: 108
Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:05 am
Car: 240sx Zenki
Location: Minnesota

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spooled240 wrote:i thought you were gonna put some angry eyelids on a zenki lmao
lol, OP I also thought you were going to do an entire conversion on the cheap. I was looking into this conversion and West Covina Nissan has all the parts for a little over 3gs lol I was like "Yeah.....I like my Zenki front"

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J14cm7
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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Again sorry for the title lol. 3gs seems a little steep. I thought i priced it at courtesy nissan for around 2200-2500 but dont quote me on that. I got my fenders, headlights, and bumper from a guy in st louis. I wish i had stock headlights though. Its a def better to piece it together. maybe buy some fenders here, then your headlights there and then a body kit and a cf hood. A high quality OEM stlye hood fo this car is only about 100 dollars more than stock. Total in the end ill probably be into it for around 2gs

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yvang07
Posts: 108
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Car: 240sx Zenki
Location: Minnesota

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J14cm7 wrote:Again sorry for the title lol. 3gs seems a little steep. I thought i priced it at courtesy nissan for around 2200-2500 but dont quote me on that. I got my fenders, headlights, and bumper from a guy in st louis. I wish i had stock headlights though. Its a def better to piece it together. maybe buy some fenders here, then your headlights there and then a body kit and a cf hood. A high quality OEM stlye hood fo this car is only about 100 dollars more than stock. Total in the end ill probably be into it for around 2gs
Yeah West Covina had these parts listed. I haven't done much research yet on the conversion because I originally was just going to replace my 2 fenders and call it a day but I got a little curious since I like the Kouki so much more. Here's what I came up with (sorry to threadjack)

USDM front bumper: F2022-81F25 $216.00Requires US turn signals (clear)Right 26130-70F25 $44.00Left 26135-70F25 $44.00

Corner lights: Right 26170-81F25 $35.00Left 26175-81F25 $35.00

USDM headlights: Right 26010-81F25 $167.00Left 26060-81F25 $167.00

Bumper reinforcement bar 62030-81F00 $147.00

Bumper retainer strip 62290-80F00 $82.00Styrofoam energy absorber 62090-81F00 $95.00Bumper bracketsRight 62222-80F00 $6.00Left 62223-80F00 $6.00

USDM grill 62310-81F25 $110.00

Headlight brackets (2 required)62560-80F00 $75.00 each

USDM optional front lip 96015-81F00 $270.50

FendersRight F3100-80F30 $210.75Left F3101-80F30 $210.75

Hood F5100-81FCM $285.56

If you add it all together it totals out to 2281.56 (minus shipping) and not my estimated 3gs (sorry about that), which would be about average according to what you say. Also, I'm not sure what on that list I can live without or modify on the Zenki to make it work so I'll definitely have to look more into it.

I was looking at the Tech Articles and saw this, all of a sudden I wanted to do a Kouki conversion.

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J14cm7
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Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:36 pm
Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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Here is the list you could get away with if you didnt mind doing what i did:

USDM front bumper: F2022-81F25 $216.00Requires US turn signals (clear)Right 26130-70F25 $44.00Left 26135-70F25 $44.00

Corner lights: Right 26170-81F25 $35.00Left 26175-81F25 $35.00

USDM headlights: Right 26010-81F25 $167.00Left 26060-81F25 $167.00

Bumper retainer strip 62290-80F00 $82.00Bumper bracketsRight 62222-80F00 $6.00Left 62223-80F00 $6.00

USDM grill 62310-81F25 $110.00

USDM optional front lip 96015-81F00 $270.50

FendersRight F3100-80F30 $210.75Left F3101-80F30 $210.75

Hood F5100-81FCM $285.56

I can certainly help you out letting you know what you dont need. As you can see in my write up I Used a zenki reinforcment bar but you will need the bumper retainer strip (thats what i welded the bracket onto). Forget the Styrofoam energy absorber 62090-81F00 $95.00. Thats useless. The whole point of the write up was to do without the headlight brackets so you can do without those.

If you cant find a complete front bumper i would recomonend just getting a body kit that comes with sideskirts if you dont have them already. that is what i will do probably next winter. I got mine really cheap but it has a small crack. This will save you money on the corner lights to because most kits provide thier own and no OEM lights are used.

Well hopefully all that could save you 400-500. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Yea i think it is def worth it. By the way that is a really good price on the hood but im still gonna go cf. Thanks for pricing the front end out that will be good info for other people

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yvang07
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Car: 240sx Zenki
Location: Minnesota

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Thanks for the input man. I'll keep digging around and hopefully maybe do this conversion come late spring/ early summer. Yeah, piecing the items together might be better than buying all new, that will probably play a big part in this situation. As of now I'm still looking for parts for my Zenki which I wanna fix before spring comes around. Maybe if I look at the front enough I might keep it. I'm torn lol I like both very much.

DisFrikkenWill
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damn you shoulda did a new write up with pics, specially the wiring part.All the zenki>kouki conversion writeups I see have no step by step pictures.

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J14cm7
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Car: 95 240sx S14 SR20det
Location: Cincinnati, OH

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Wel since this isnt gonna be my daily driver and that i am only gonna take it out on nice days/nights i wasnt to worried about wiring them up all that well. I know this will outrage many readers but i like to leave my options open. Since i am only running low beams, (the kit i purchased isnt that expensive) I left the original cars plugs in tact. The HID kit already had exposed metal connectors wired in so i just plugged them into the low beam pins and taped them onto the plug. I taped them excessively so no water can get in and now it is pretty much just a big ball. I plan on going back to stock so i wanted to leave my options open.

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J14cm7
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Just an update. Got the Seibon CF hood ordered so hopefully that comes in the net month. Ordered it from the most reliable seller i could find on ebay. He called me shortly after the order and went over a few things. Seems like the customer service is awesome so far so hopefully it gets here with no problem.

Yesterday i took my diff out and took it to the weld shop to get welded. Picked it up this morning and installed it back in the car. Once the salt gets washed off the roads i will tell you what i think.

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yvang07
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J14cm7 wrote:Just an update. Got the Seibon CF hood ordered so hopefully that comes in the net month. Ordered it from the most reliable seller i could find on ebay. He called me shortly after the order and went over a few things. Seems like the customer service is awesome so far so hopefully it gets here with no problem.

Yesterday i took my diff out and took it to the weld shop to get welded. Picked it up this morning and installed it back in the car. Once the salt gets washed off the roads i will tell you what i think.
Good s*** man, pics when you get the hood installed

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J14cm7
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Yea welded rear diffs are the s***. You really dont notice the difference during normal driving the tires just chirp and drag under really tight slow turns. But drifting is awesome and way easier to control. Take off is alot faster and your wheel spin is kept to a minimum.

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SleepyHB
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Hey man did you have to cut/trim or use spacer on the reinforcement bar or anything to make it fit on front of the FMIC?

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J14cm7
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Yea if you look in this picture you can see that i cut the reinforcment bar middle section out and welded two peices to the top and bottom of it. I still used the stock ends where they bolt onto the car. This not only makes it lighter but also allows for better airflow.


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SleepyHB
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Do I need the reinforcement bar? Other than absorbing the impact it also hold the turn signal in place, right? I was thinking I just wire the turn signal to the corner light, but it look better with OEM turn signal I'm sure, what you think man? I don't want to spend that much money but I want the OEM look, thanks.

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J14cm7
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No the reinforcment bar does nothing but protect your car. No lights are supported by this. although your bumper will probably wobble and bounce around inless you connect the retainer to the reinforcment bar.

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gmac708
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1970 Datsun 240Z
1972 Datsun 510

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J14cm7 wrote:Once the salt gets washed off the roads i will tell you what i think.
Well???? What do you think?

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J14cm7
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J14cm7 wrote:Yea welded rear diffs are the s***. You really dont notice the difference during normal driving the tires just chirp and drag under really tight slow turns. But drifting is awesome and way easier to control. Take off is alot faster and your wheel spin is kept to a minimum.
I took it out today with salt still on the roads i couldnt resist i wiped the fender wells down after i came back. Its awesome gord. I recommend doing it although my friend has a 2 way in his and while i dont know much about it. that route may be more up your alley.

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SleepyHB
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thx a lot, conversion looks good man, keep us update

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gmac708
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Never know. Might do the weld first.

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Kidcid
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good info

sweet looking car

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J14cm7
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all i know is that there is about an 800 dollar difference between the two that was the contributing factor when i made my decision haha.

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night240
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if I only had the motivation to convert my zenki to kouki don't feel like doing it.

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Turbo24sxt
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Car: 1997 Nissan 240sx Kouki monster

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yvang07 wrote: I was looking at the Tech Articles and saw this, all of a sudden I wanted to do a Kouki conversion.
ha ha ha glad my car can make people wanna do a conversion!!


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