J14cm7's SR20DET kouki build goes JDM TYTE!

[nando]

ok

but just remember that the oe hood is steel and the striker is welded to the hood

these "carbon fiber" hoods, tho carbon outer shell, seem to have a fiber glass based webbing holding, or bonding, the striker to the hood.

i have heard of hoods flying up on on people. even tho they didnt hit that +100mph mark... those were VIS tho. and Seibon is much better quality imo.

i bought one a while back ago for my kouki conversion. but yours looks great keep up the good work and good luck with the latch

[motoman399]

i called VIS and they told me that i didnt need hood pins but it was recommended. the chances of a quality hood flying up are slim. its usually the crappy ones you buy that fade and fly up.

hey J14cm7, ill get you pictures of that tongiht. i dont have any that are mounted on the car. what i can do is put it between the two headlights though. my car is wrecked so i only have the headlights and grill and bumper. my brand new vis hood is folded in half. and i have the whole core support ripped off my car right now (putting a new one on)

[J14cm7]

Yea the distributer said it was recomended but they had never heard of it happening. They have to say that to cover their asses. Ill take my chances. i just hate hood pins. They gave me a free set when i ordered it and im just gonna give them away.

About the pics moto: its cool i looked at that best looking Koukis ever thread and that grill is def just not right. its like it got warped or something. I will prob just rock it without a grill for a while or rock my old zenki one lol.

Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming.

[J14cm7]

OK i took the spring off my hood latch after soaking it in some WD-40. The latch became alot looser so i put it back on the car. Still no dice.

I looked up the part numbers between the 95-96 and the 97-98 and the hood latch is the same. So i took these pictures maybe someone has some ideas cause im stumped. i showed the front of the car and the two headlights to show fitment. i dont think the bumper and headlights are to high.



As you can see in the final picture the hood cannot go any farther down to go into the correct latching position. I have no idea why this would be the case. i doubt the seibon hood is wrong but stranger things have happened. Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Id hate to have to tap two new holes in the core support.

[motoman399]

can you push the latch down with a screw driver easily? if you cant then you need to work on that. if you can then you either A) need to adjust your latch. B) try your zenki hood with out the headlights on. C) call seibon and b**** them out for 35 minutes and tell them you want a new hood. lol

[bllabong89]

can you push the latch down with a screw driver easily? if you cant then you need to work on that. if you can then you either A) need to adjust your latch. B) try your zenki hood with out the headlights on. C) call seibon and b**** them out for 35 minutes and tell them you want a new hood. lol

What he said. I have a black oem kouki grill im sellin if u want it, 40 shipped but the car is comin together. I wish i had a cf hood.lol

[J14cm7]

.

can you push the latch down with a screw driver easily? if you cant then you need to work on that. if you can then you either A) need to adjust your latch. B) try your zenki hood with out the headlights on. C) call seibon and b**** them out for 35 minutes and tell them you want a new hood. lol

The latch being to tight is not the problem. Its the positioning. i think i am just gonna tac it in place with the hood down and then weld it on so its nice and secure. I can always grind it off again. Or ill come up with something else that is not really the issue.

What he said. I have a black oem kouki grill im sellin if u want it, 40 shipped but the car is comin together. I wish i had a cf hood.lol

Post pics of the grill.


Modified by J14cm7 at 11:40 AM 2/23/2010

[bllabong89]

its oem so it should fit perfectly

[motoman399]

i really think you should try an oem s14 hood and see if your hood striker is not down far enough. in that case call up seibon and get your a** a new hood. im pretty sure they are lifetime hoods against defects. the cable thing doesnt sound too bad but you shouldnt have to do that. i think your hood striker isnt down far enough.

[J14cm7]

i really think you should try an oem s14 hood and see if your hood striker is not down far enough. in that case call up seibon and get your a** a new hood. im pretty sure they are lifetime hoods against defects. the cable thing doesnt sound too bad but you shouldnt have to do that. i think your hood striker isnt down far enough.

Unfortunatly i dont have an OEM hood to try. Sold the zenki one a long time ago. Either way i dont trust just the striker to hold. *Edit* can you measure your striker depth and let me know. This car has been in a slight fender bender at one time so it may just be its pushed down a little. Either way i can fix it i think im just gonna weld to nuts at the right height and wala problem solved

its oem so it should fit perfectly

Thats a USDM OEM correct?

[nando]

how did you adjust the hood?

with or with out the latch?

i remove/unbolt the latch and get it out of the way.

that way you can set the hood hight the way you want it when it will be closed.

then put the latch back in and alligne it to the hood triker

it does look like you latch needs to go a little to the left (drivers side)

alligne you latch to the hood not your hood to the latch. using after market parts will always change the possition of some thing hope this helps

good luck

also you might have to hog the holes out (make bigger) on the latch to move it down more

[J14cm7]

Nando i appreciate the help but I have already done all of what you say. I wouldn't have posted if i hadn't tried everything i could think of

[J14cm7]

Figured out what was up with the latch. The core support post its attached to is crumpled a bit. Couldnt see it cause of the intercooler being in the way. so i will hammer that out some and it should fix the problem. After posting a poll i am going with hood pins/latches. Most likely Areocatch. The risk is just to great and there are to many "my hood flew up" threads. its weird you just dont see hood pins around here. they got a bad rep somehow. i still dont like them but safety first

[J14cm7]

Just ordered a HKS SSQV recirculating fitting and Goddammit man those arent cheap for such a simple part. Part number is 71002-AK004 For 29mm ID hose (not included) for anyone interested.

Should have just done what the lancaster PA guys are doing and just run no BOV haha.

[bllabong89]

yea, its a usdm kouki grill

[brizanden]

the us one is 1000x better then that s***ty grill you have no offense. never liked the design and that fitment looks like poo. If u want a blank thing just get the jdm one like spooled said

[J14cm7]

Thanks for the input and no using that POS grill never even crossed my mind i would rather jsut not use one if i had to choose. It came with the front end so ill prob jsut throw it away. Im trying to track down the JDM mesh one. something about it just looks sweet

[J14cm7]

Decided that every good build thread has a good history of the car. So i posted a brief history in the opening post. I was bored last night so enjoy

[J14cm7]

Got a box from FedEx today and it was my BOV recirculation fitting. Dont know why it came in such a huge box but thats prob why the shipping was so much

Well i would post the write up on how to do the recirculation but mine is EPIC fail at the moment so i have to figure something out. I was hoping the stock outlet on my intake rubber pipe would work but since my BOV is mounted in the worst spot ever its not gonna work. makes me wish i would have thought of this before i mounted it last year.

So now i have two options: One get an intake pipe fabbed up and put a 29mm fitting on it in a different location or get a new hot pipe and remount the BOV more towards the front of the car. Here are some pics.



Input is always appreciated.

[motoman399]

or you could put your mass air flow in line on the cold side and not worry about the recirc

[gmac708]

Making a new intake pipe would be pretty easy. I suppose you could always cut the BOV flange off the hot pipe and relocate it, and then have the hole welded shut.

I ran the SR with the BOV open (no recirculate) and it never had any problems.

[J14cm7]

or you could put your mass air flow in line on the cold side and not worry about the recirc

Yea i guess i forgot to mention that as option number 3 but i would have to do alot more fab to do that and i dont know if i want to get into all that.

Making a new intake pipe would be pretty easy. I suppose you could always cut the BOV flange off the hot pipe and relocate it, and then have the hole welded shut.

I ran the SR with the BOV open (no recirculate) and it never had any problems.

My SR loves to stall out after big runs or after i floor it. Its a nuisance but i have also heard of people not having any problems at all so who knows. I have the parts now so might as well. I think i will just go the new flange route and relocate the BOV. i think even if i fab a new intake the angle that the BOV is at it still wouldnt work without a kink. My hotpipe would be F'ed but who cares about looks haha.

[motoman399]

dont be a baby and fab it in the cold pipe. lol its not that hard, just a few hose clamps and you dont have to worry about stalling agian. and you get the cool ssqv sound

either way im sure you will figure it out and make it nice. just sucks that its aluminum and you have to get it tig welded, unless you have a tig welder... then ill shut up lol

[J14cm7]

dont be a baby and fab it in the cold pipe. lol its not that hard, just a few hose clamps and you dont have to worry about stalling agian. and you get the cool ssqv sound

either way im sure you will figure it out and make it nice. just sucks that its aluminum and you have to get it tig welded, unless you have a tig welder... then ill shut up lol

Well I started brainstorming and was within seconds of ordering Emanage so i could go MAP and then i realized i am never gonna get coilovers if i keep spending money on other s*** so...well...as you can see problem solved.

BEFORE

ABout 5 min later...

AFTER

There now thats JDM. It may not be pretty but its the cheapest alternative. Ill stop by the welder tom and get the new flange welded in the right spot. If i ever decide to clean up my engine bay and get stuff powder coated ill get a new hotpipe and flange. Thanks for the suggestion Gord.

[motoman399]

Well I started brainstorming and was within seconds of ordering Emanage so i could go MAP and then i realized i am never gonna get coilovers if i keep spending money on other s*** so...well...as you can see problem solved.

well i have never experienced it but i have heard nothing good about emanage. i dont know how much it cost but i got nistune for about 400 shipped to my door. and i had to solder it in. now of course you have to get it tuned still but you would also have to with emanage.

[J14cm7]

Well im sure glad i recirculated by BOV cause it made no difference in how the car acts. Still stalls out when coming to a stop but idles fine when you start it up or let it sit. This is getting frustrating.



Im gonna post a topic on it and see if anyone can provide any useful help.

Other than that got the kouki tail lights installed and i ordered a JDM grill so i cant wait for that to get here.

[spooled240]

it's probably because your recirc is still after the mafs. The air goes through the mafs, tells the engine how much load their is and how much fuel to deliver, then BAM throttle body slams shut and all that air to mix with all that fuel goes out through the bov(and in your case back inside the turbo)

this is the exact reason why I went blow-through so all the air going out the bov is unmetered and doesn't have anything to do with the mafs.

[gmac708]

Your IACV should be taking care of this. Did you hook up the vacuum line on the throttle body (the big one) to your cold pipe?.

[J14cm7]

it's probably because your recirc is still after the mafs. The air goes through the mafs, tells the engine how much load their is and how much fuel to deliver, then BAM throttle body slams shut and all that air to mix with all that fuel goes out through the bov(and in your case back inside the turbo)

this is the exact reason why I went blow-through so all the air going out the bov is unmetered and doesn't have anything to do with the mafs.

I did alot of research and this is how all the recirculated setups on all cars are setup. It always gets recirculated between the MAF and the turbo.

Your IACV should be taking care of this. Did you hook up the vacuum line on the throttle body (the big one) to your cold pipe?.

I did but it was such a crazy angle it was crimping. I thought i had the problem solved but maybe not. Ill check it again to see if its crimped. But wouldnt this affect my idle if this was the case. I read on alot of forums that you also need to adjust the BOV but the new HKS i have is unadjustable.

Here is the thread i posted. BOV Problem

*Edit* Just checked the line gord seems to be fine.

Modified by J14cm7 at 9:02 PM 3/7/2010
Modified by J14cm7 at 6:38 PM 3/9/2010

[motoman399]

I did alot of research and this is how all the recirculated setups on all cars are setup. It always gets recirculated between the MAF and the turbo.

ya i think its right. its being circulated back to metered air. the maf isnt reading anything other than whats in the pipes.

maybe you have a boost leak? im not too sure. i dont know too much about the sr's. but im sure its a simple fix