speedeast wrote: Sorry 'bout that, haha! I'll keep you posted for sure.

nice!!!

Trust me, I'm just as anxious, if not more, as anybody on here to get some more updates on here. Things will be changing in the very near future when I finally get my car near me.

I have, however, made another purchase that i would like to share with you guys. I pieced together my own battery relocation kit because I don't really feel like dishing out $80 - $200 for a retail kit.

Here is it:



Break down:

(1) Large Size Battery Box -- $14
(1) Top Post Terminal -- $4
(2) 2ga Copper Lug -- $3
(1) 20" 2 ga Grnd w/ Term. + Lug -- $7
(15) 2 ga Stranded THHN @ $1.37/ft -- $21

Total: $49

Stay tuned. More to come.

I see our talk benefited you..

Of course. I actually got around 20-22 feet of cable only because the guy took a bazillion years searching for a new spool of the 2 ga cable and felt bad about it. I noticed on the receipt that I was charged $1.37/ft for it, and it was labeled $0.91/ft at the wire station. I'll drop by tomorrow and get my $7. I had to get the big battery box because the next size down was like 1/2" too short or something for my battery, oh well. I probably have enough extra room to cram some jumper cables in beside the battery, haha. I still want to get some loom for the cable and I have to devise some sort of fuse, otherwise I'm all set in that department. Feels good to cross something else off the list.

I have the exact same box...

speedeast wrote:Well, here is a picture of my new JAZ 12-Gallon Fuel Cell w/sump, complete with foam insert, brackets, and fuel hard line.

OOooo....nice!

Where are you doing a battery relocation? I know some Z32 guys put the battery in the trunk to clean up the engine bay and relocate some weight for balance purposes...

I've been set on going with a DEKA Intimidator as my battery, but the more I research, the more I want a Sears Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey). Decisions, decisions...

REDWINTERZ wrote:Where are you doing a battery relocation? I know some Z32 guys put the battery in the trunk to clean up the engine bay and relocate some weight for balance purposes...

I am relocating the battery to the back right corner. If you meant to say "Why," it has a lot to do with weight balance, but I could use the room up front anyhow. My battery is in the 45lb range, which is technically a 90lb weight transfer.

You'll need it in the trunk when you add boost later on, anyway.

PyR0NiAk wrote:You'll need it in the trunk when you add boost later on, anyway.

It does make it convenient. The remote oil setup will be more convenient for one.

Yeah that's what I figured. I may do this myself when funds allow. Very cool

Getting close?

DRFTBLD wrote:Getting close?

Most of next week will be spent in the garage with my car! I haven't seen it in like 7 weeks!

bet your gonna be like a kid in a candy shop!!! Enjoy!

Wish I could come up and help you man... I'm not going to be able to take it home on leave, but it should be done when I get back around the 1st. I'll have to drive it up after I get it back.

Sure thing.

How soon until you get to work on the car?

TOMORROW!!!

Ok, here's my first new post of the week.

Unfortunately, this post will not be very pretty as some s*** has gone down since I left my car alone 7+ weeks ago. When I arrived at the garage on Sunday, I was horrified with what I found. I parked my car off to the side, as usual. I removed the padlock from the door, as usual. I even opened the door in the same old fashion, but when I did I was overwhelmed by a dense burst of humidity. It felt as though I had just opened the door to a sauna. I was concerned, but at that moment I didn't think too much of it. I proceeded in and flipped on the master breaker; the lights all came on. I noticed right then that different parts of the floor were wet and I was beginning to get heated. I remained calm though as I just assumed a large rainstorm may have allowed some minor flooding in the building. When I approached the car and everything else, I was quite shocked with what I found. Everything was soaked. I mean everything. Every single box, whether on the ground or on a shelf, was so soft I could punch my finger right through it. The entire interior of the car was coated with micro beads of water. All of my parts were covered with the same beads or just plain ol' wet. I walked over to the engine stand and ripped back the chunk of black suede that covered it and felt the moisture in the cloth as I tossed it. At that point, steam was building up to burst out my ears. There was mold forming on different parts of the motor, and the powder coat on the valve covers was deteriorating in certain parts. WTF!?!? From this point on I won't use Cardinal brand powder coat, even though it's supposedly one of the best. This is ridiculous. Most of the bolt heads were corroded as well. Damn glad it's all aluminum though.

I didn't take very many pictures specifically of f***ed up s***, because, frankly, I don't want to remember it. But you can see from the regular series of pictures following. I did however clean most things up and dry everything off. I moved forward as planned.

VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED!




I had some help from a couple of friends of mine. We removed all of the old exhaust studs; new headers came with replacement bolts.



I installed my new water pump!




I fitted the fuel rails with the new lower injector rail cushions that I ordered from Infiniti of Charlotte, who has the same part search engine as Infiniti of Scotsdale, but they're cheaper, and closer for shipping!!!



I installed the thermostat that I had bought before, and installed the thermostat housing onto the block.




Next, the fuel rails and injectors were torqued into place. Notice the little piece of green tape on one of the injectors. I used a multimeter and checked the resistance of all of the injectors; the #1 injector tested bad and will need to be replaced before first start-up.






I taped off the open ends to prevent anything from getting in there.



After that I rearranged a couple rubber hoses and torqued the plenum in place, I installed the throttle body and called it a day with the intake side all sealed up.



All of this work was over the course of the days, both Sunday and Monday. Tomorrow (Tuesday), well today, I will have some more help out at the garage and I plan to accomplish a whole lot more, so stay tuned for more updates including more pictures of moisture damage. Tonight, I also painted the engine bay a final satin/semi-gloss black and it looks great. Pictures will be included in the next update.

Thanks for tuning in.

drool.... with envy.

your build is veru inspiring to me, i have always wanted to put a 300 Z motor in my S13, any advice?

Ichi_San wrote:your build is veru inspiring to me, i have always wanted to put a 300 Z motor in my S13, any advice?

It's heavier than the VH I'm putting in mine. It will require about as much modification, and believe it or not might be a tighter fit...

This is the update for yesterday.

First thing I did starting the new day of progress was flip the motor and suspend it so I could access the rear and the bottom without having to move it again.

I installed the new rear main oil seal into the cover piece, then installed the cover piece onto the block sealing with Ultra Gray RTV.



After that, I installed the baffle and the oil pick-up onto the block. The o-ring in the oil pick-up was old and practically useless so I had to replace it with something. I went to CarQuest and found a round o-ring which was the same diameter, but thicker and planted that sucker in there. I guarantee the seal is better than OEM although a bit eccentric, haha.






Next was the long awaited oil pan.



The next thing I decided to tackle was rebuilding the inner boot of the rear right CV axle as I had done before on the other side. The Raybestos boot is beautiful, but the bands that are sent with it are garbage. I reused the OEM bands, much better. Again, I filled it with Motul Tech 300; it's green!





While I was rebuilding the axle I was allowing the RTV around the oil pan to dry. When it finally dried, I peeled it off and painted the oil pan a glossy black.



Also, I had promised before to show a couple pictures of the engine bay with some new semi-gloss.




Removed the old fuel tank retaining straps...




I also painted the engine mounts and the brake booster gloss black.




I pulled the rear subframe and started adding onto it. I didn't change the OEM RLCA bushings because I expect to replace the control arms at some point fairly soon. Other than those, the only bushings to be replaced are the sway bar endlink bushings.




I have all of the content for the next update, but i will probably organize and post it in the morning before I go back out to the garage.

looks awesome can i have it lol:)

Ok brawh, I got some questions. I've recently become interested in this swap and wanted to know if there were any fabrications that had to be done to get this to fit in the bay. Also wut is the mpg of this engine and wut is the difficulty of this swap? Also wut is the weight of this setup? Sorry about all of the questions. Search, I know right. lol

Midwest_240sx wrote:Ok brawh, I got some questions. I've recently become interested in this swap and wanted to know if there were any fabrications that had to be done to get this to fit in the bay. Also wut is the mpg of this engine and wut is the difficulty of this swap? Also wut is the weight of this setup? Sorry about all of the questions. Search, I know right. lol

It will fit in there just fine assuming you have custom engine mounts and accessory brackets that allow it clearance. There are all kinds of subtle changes that must be made for this to work. Read through my entire thread and through the next couple updates especially, because the motor is going in today.

bova17 wrote:looks awesome can i have it lol:)

Thanks holmes, but not quite yet.

As promised, here is another update of progress thus far. After I did all of this work I stood back and it really didn't look like I had accomplished much to the unseasoned eye, but there were many subtle changes.

I'll start with a refreshed picture of the engine. It is suspended from the hoist, but there is a huge bias to the rear. The front of the engine wants to swing around since it won't be evenly weighted until the transmission is hooked up. That's the reason I have it resting on those two tires - which are good steelies I picked up from the local junkyard for $35. They are structurally good, hold air, and the tires have a little life left. They are the 5 x 114.3mm lug pattern to fit the 300zx rear hubs I now have. Anyways...



In the next picture you can see the bottom rear right corner of the block has been cut/ground away to accommodate the Z32 starter. I mounted the transmission, held the starter up, and made marks to indicate which area needed to disappear. This was all accomplished with a 4.5" angle grinder.



I painted some pulleys and other miscellaneous pieces in the same gloss black color.



After that I accomplished a much more delicate, yet difficult, task. I had to remove the automatic transmission converter bushing or whatever that think is called. I wasn't sure exactly how to remove it so this is what I did: I welded a nut onto the outside of it and threaded a bolt through it. When the bolt hit the back side of the hole, it began easing the bushing out. It worked great!!! It did take a couple attempts to properly weld the nut onto the bushing as the bolt material was significantly softer than the bushing material. Flux-core welding also doesn't help too much, but I finally got it with the highest heat setting and lowest feed setting... I also broke off the little brass pin that would have interfered with the flywheel placement and installed the Z32 pilot bushing.




Luckily for me, the transmission I picked up was already machined for the adapter and already had the 1/4" spacer installed. All I had to do was install the throw-out bearing and clean out the splines.



Flywheel! It's starting to look awesome! By the way, those 12 point 10mm - 1.0 flywheel bolts fit perfect! They are ARP and were made for a 2.0L Ford Pinto, lol! (~65 ft/lb of torque)



Updated pic of the engine with the oil filter adapter in place. This mechanism is only temporary, as I don't prefer the filter placement and it will interfere with my powersteering pump location. It will work for now while I'm attempting to move the car.




Pretty little engine mount bracket bolted on:



More tonight!!