Xiaphin's 1990 Fastback SR FP Big28 Build - Dyno Results

[MICRoS13]

I love seeing a 240 build done up right.

[s13drifter88]

i wish somebody would by my sr. im tired of it sitting in my garage

[xiaphin]

i wish somebody would by my sr. im tired of it sitting in my garage

How much and whats included. Was thinking about buying a spare engine or block.

Side Note:
Have a working CAS and 4 matching coil packs otw. Hoping it fixes my problem. Nardi Kallista on its way from http://www.aspecproducts.com as well Did get one engine up and running this weekend though. 1 out of 2 aint bad.

[xiaphin]

Turned out to be a bad CAS. Now spark is good. Car starts but then dies. Time to figure out whats causing this. Disconnected MAF, no difference. Disconnected TPS, no difference. Messed with IACV idle screw, just chasing my tail here. Bumped fuel pressure up. Have like 80 psi when pump primes and then drops to zero if i wait long enough. Should my fuel pressure hold at a certain pressure if the car isnt running/idling? Gonna look at my vaccum routing tomorrow.

[s13drifter88]

I want alot. as it sits no turbo or clutch tho. the turbo is now on my CA and the comp stage 4 is toast. it has HKS step 3 cams, Crower complete valve kit, HKS rocker stoppers, ARP head studs, HKS mls head gasket, HKS top feed fuel rail, RC 550cc injectors, Greddy oil filter relocation kit, Greddy oil pan, complete i/c kitm CX racing radiator and B&M short shifter. No part out, sry

[s13drifter88]

sounds like a bad fuel pump

[RustspecS13]

If it doesn't hold fuel pressure for a long time just sitting there priming with the engine off, that's usually a failed FPR. Could be a pump but more then likely Id start at the FPR.

~Alex

[mixeds14]

i love the way ur valve cover turned out, it reminds me of a Hersey bar.. ... ur interior looks good, specially the gauges n the air vent u got in the middle of it.. good work sir...

on ur fuel problem, when i had my kat i had the same problem, the fuel psi drop to 0 immediately when i shut the car off, it turned out to be my fpr, the digraph was bad..

[xiaphin]

Helps if you wire the fuel pump up right. Had the yellow and blue wire going to relay instead of white and purple. Maybe I'm colorblind. Anyways holds pressure. Here's a pic of my vac routing that I question now. Fule lines are setup correctly. Cranks then dies still. Think its weird that even with relay wired in the pump works only when factory harness is connected. Isnt relay supposed to eliminate the need of having this connection?

[xiaphin]

Sprayed a little ether into my intake and car ran for about 5 seconds. Running very lean. Time to mess with my fuel map and get this sucker running.

[s13drifter88]

I have no experience with powern fc at all but a friend of mine Collin does and he said he hates it with a passion. He prefers Enthalpy or Nistune

[Speckid4]

Good work. This makes me wish I had the space or place to do this to my car. Can't even have my car up on jack stands overnight. f*** the homes association!

[s13drifter88]

screw the home association. id tell them I have the deed to MY property and then introduce to my 2 friends Smith&Wesson. its solved all my tresspassing and harassment problems before lol.

[Speckid4]

screw the home association. id tell them I have the deed to MY property and then introduce to my 2 friends Smith&Wesson. its solved all my tresspassing and harassment problems before lol.

I'm too pretty to go to jail.........


...back to thread.....the people want an UPDATE! lol

[s13Vanessa]

I like your attention to detail! It will help in the long run

[xiaphin]

Got car running last weekend. Just let it idle for 5 minutes and turned her off. Oil pressure and fuel pressure were great. Had a couple leaky AN connections... fixed those. Put fluid in trans. Tachometer didnt work and realized I needed a DOHC tach so swapped that out. Trimmed bumper to fit Intercooler. Put front part of cage in only to find out that the glovebox cant open. WTF so Im gonna modify the way it opens since all my controllers are in there. Kallista be here on the 9th. Gotta turn a piece on the lathe to fix my quick disconnect hub. And the list goes on. Time to get back to it.


BTW for those of you who have a hard time getting the fill plug loose cause some idiot tightened it way too much. Use a bottle jack and simply jack up the opposite end of the wrench that is on the plug. Couldn't break it loose with heat so I had to go oldschool on it.

[badbob2121]

more pictures

[s13drifter88]

4 flank socket, 1/2" drive Ingersol Rand 2135 Ti-Max. that plug always loses

[xiaphin]

4 flank socket, 1/2" drive Ingersol Rand 2135 Ti-Max. that plug always loses

Ur telling me u can get that impact gun on the plug while its in the car? Id like to see that.

[s13drifter88]

Snap-On 1/2" impact universal joint
Ever put a steering rack in Chrysler 300M? Everything seems easy as f*ck after that. Its not on the crossmember, its on the firewall lmao.

[OM3GA]

Heres my reasoning. You'll have to buy an elbow and downpipe both totalling $380-$400+ for quality pieces. Only turbo elbow that matches the quality of the PBM, that I've seen, is the Greddy $236 (Selling mine for $200 shipped UPS) It's 304SS, wastegate divider, slotted for T25/T28. Then u gotta buy a downpipe all stainless units are $200, not all have trans mount plus all aren't straight 80mm, all have neck. So why not spend the $380 or $400, depending on options for the PBM best on the market. I went this route even though I already had a Greddy Elbow.

As far as the PBM Cobra Flex Downpipe goes it is a work of art. Every weld is solid and both mounting flanges are thick. Pros - it is 304 Stainless Steel, has wastegate divider, has flex, is 80mm from flex back (no neck), has trans mount, has slotted hole so it can be used for either T25 or T28, price is right, can get extra O2 bung. Cons - none that I can think of. Other people that have installed it say it has more clearance than other downpipes.

Others thoughts??? OM3GA I know you'll chime in.

Sorry i am a bit late, First off this build is fantabulous.

I have been very busy with work lately and have not had enough time to come fondle the forum. Now that i feel horrible from having food poisoning or something and can't go to work tomorrow i am here.

The PBM Downpipe is a great piece, the fitment is dead on and the ground clearance is better than any other downpipe i have seen. The flex section is genius, it is all about the vertical flex point. Sure the horizontal flex will do something(decrease ground clearance even further) but not if you hit the bend of the downpipe which happens fairly often if your car is a decent height. (Unless you are a master pro at pulling out which i know a lot of us are)

One thing i noticed about this downpipe is the tripod transmission attachment brace unit. Very strong and awesome, the only thing that dissapointed me was alright i installed the oem bracket and insulator bushing from my transmission mount to the downpipe bracket, i had it set up perfectly so the whole downpipe was parallel with the frame rail; you could not see it looking from the side underneath! Then when i installed the rest of my exhaust system awwwhhhh it got saggy this is caused only by the stock rubber bushing. I have a brand new one and i bought another brand new one as a spare but thought about having someone replicate it out of polyurethane.(First i thought to do it out of aluminum but that would be too bad a** and probably destroy everything since the vibrations in the exhaust from the tones would most likely shear the tripod brace right off)

Anyways, you go and buy any elbow and downpipe combo and spend maybe a little more than the PBM and you end up with less ground clearance, an extra gasket to worry about and no flex section. PBM spent i believe a full year or two years developing this sexy snake and it is definitely a great piece.

Keep up the great work with your build, i will definitely be lerking around. I just ordered some more parts for my car as well so stay tuned.

[xiaphin]

you could not see it looking from the side underneath! Then when i installed the rest of my exhaust system awwwhhhh it got saggy this is caused only by the stock rubber bushing. I have a brand new one and i bought another brand new one as a spare but thought about having someone replicate it out of polyurethane.(First i thought to do it out of aluminum but that would be too bad a** and probably destroy everything since the vibrations in the exhaust from the tones would most likely shear the tripod brace right off)

Were you able to get the PBM trans mount to line up with the stock bushing? I could only get the top of PBM mount to mate with the bottom bushing hole. Results in it hanging down 1.5-2" lower than intended.Pics of my lack of clearance with suspension setup as of yesterday. Rear needs to go up 1/2" or so and front down 1/4". No way can I drive around like this. Bumper fitted and front strut bar installed. Gonna run spacers in the rear. New pics of suspension completely setup tom or later tonight. Have 4.5 deg of camber in rear. Gonna get it to 1.5-2.0 and need to toe it out in rear. Look how much adjustment was made on coilovers up front. Had to drop it almost 2"

[xiaphin]

Unbolted exhaust and jacked up to desired position.The gap between flanges was roughly 7 degrees. Fixed by heating up and bending the test pipe. Wrapped PBM, test pipe, and part of exhaust with heat wrap. Transmission isolator now lines up with PBM mount. Still flexes quite a bit though. Bought some 80A durometer polyeurethane, gonna make a stiffer mount later next week. Ended up using the 15mm hubcentric PBM spacers in the rear. Have 8mm's up front, might add another 3 to it. Finished suspension setup. Nardi horn button is too large for the NRG quick release. Gonna turn down the ID on lathe today. Install seats and some trim pieces then time to drive this mutha.

[Madhatter969]

Love this build, especialy how you did the interior!

[xiaphin]

Planned on updating this with pics of the car riding around since everything is done and just needs tuning. Got interior finished and car idling and responding properly. Went to put car in gear but it wouldnt budge. Goes in gear without the engine running. So I re-bled the clutch and adjusted the clutch pedal but still wouldnt go in gear while running. Decided to pull the transmission and found a broken finger on my pressure plate. WTF is that. You can see one finger in first pic out of line with the rest. Its pretty clear in the other what is wrong. Broken right where there is a split in the plate itself. Since I bought this almost a year ago I'm most likely just gonna have to buy another one but we will see.

[xiaphin]

Got a new pressure plate from ACT which fixed the problem of not being able to go in gear with the engine running. Turns out old plate had a factory defect. Installed B&M short shifter and Cusco shifter bushing as well.



Had appointment for tuning at TDC last weekend but had to cancel due to a problem with my 300zx booster not releasing pressure, keeping brakes on all the time. Shortened booster rod but brakes still stayed on. Swapped out with booster that came on the car but no change. Went ahead and bought the Centric 17/16 master cylinder from Z1 motorsports. Installed and pressure bled a whole quart through the system, problem fixed. Hit exhaust really hard on gas station tank refueling covers. Pushed it back and dented muffler on swaybar and bent some other s***. Moved exhaust forward an inch and up two. Made bracket to keep in this position. Cut an inch out of test pipe, rewelded. Installed two new exhaust hangers. Had PS steering leak. Fixed by installing ISIS braided line.

[S13AL]

Exhaust tuck looks good. Like the wheel fitment too. 15mm spacers in the rear?

[xiaphin]

Exhaust tuck looks good. Like the wheel fitment too. 15mm spacers in the rear?

Thanks. Amazes me how there arent any hangers on the passenger side except at the very back.

15mm Hubcentrics + 3mm for 18 in the rear. Just 15mm hubcentrics up front. Got a set of 8 and 7's I dont need now.

[xiaphin]

Buddy and I noticed the my injector correction values were incorrect and my logged wideband values didnt match up with the gauge. Rewired gauge to dataloggit per Innovate motorsports instructions online, which are different than those in the pdf sent with the wideband. Anyways I reprogrammed it for 0V = 9.0 and 5V=18 AFR with LCprogrammer and changed settings in datalogit. Now gauge and logged values match.

Then I changed the values to 67.0 and .01 msec of delay since I have Nismo 550's. Settings were 100 and .1msec, not sure how these got in there but somehow my car has been running on that setting for a couple weeks, just rich. Now car runs lean as hell at idle. Weird thing is that I loaded my old map and old settings, one the car was running on for a couple weeks, and still the same thing. WTF?!

Set injector correction back to the correct values of 67.0 and .01 msec. Maxed out correction (1.469) for the load cells at idle, still lean like 18 AFR. Bumped INJ vs. Water Temp values up for +30 to 1.5, and +50 to 1.25. Now idles at 13.8-15.0. Want it to be 12.5-13.0 at idle.

Is it normal to have to raise the water temp correction so much?

[s13drifter88]

Could you have a bad temp sensor possibly or maybe a bad connection with it? 12.5-13 is awful rich for idle. Ideally idle should be around stoich or a little leaner. 15-16's are not bad at all for idle, should be around in the mid 13's when just driving under light load and mid-high 11's when under boost/heavy load. For a nice tq jump you could tune for e-85 with a degree or 2 more timing and low 12's.