WTF! My car is here

A General Discussion forum for cars and other topics, and a great place to introduce yourself if you are new to NICO!
TgduMg
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Car: 94 Q45, 02 Maxima SE
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SFBayQ45 wrote:WOW! I like the aggressive look of that body kit. That's exactly what's missing from my '91...the sporty lower air dam and the integrated clear fog lamps. I want that body kit!

I checked out Stillen's site for the body kit, but unfortunately it doesn't have any pics available other than the rear spoiler. So it comes down to your Q as the only "living" Stillen prototype documented. Can't wait to see more awesome pics on what the side and rear end body kits adds to the look of the Q.
Impul Impul?/Erebuni Sarona & Xenon

Danisiti 1


1992Q45A
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Stillen wing has an integrated light. At least mine does. On the site it says it does, but the pic doesn't seem to show it. Maybe they took the impul wing and rigged the light into it

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1qckser
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I was told that kit wasnt available anymore thru Erubuni, hhhmmmmm, gonna have to give them a call $750 isnt bad.:)

1992Q45A
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We should contact Stillen as well.. I really can't imagine them charging much for the remaining kits they have...

fxjackso
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Steve Millen had Azevs on his own Q. The Bronze 94 with Nitrous. Enough said.

1992Q45A
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fxjackso wrote:Steve Millen had Azevs on his own Q. The Bronze 94 with Nitrous. Enough said.


Very true. I like the wheels. Just need to locate the centercaps, which I believe are in the spare part pile.

Steve did extensive testing on this car. If he thought 16s were a good combo, I'm not going to doubt him.

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Jeff Williams
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I have 2 theories about the 16" wheels.

1. It was easier to get autocross tires in this size, and cheaper.

2. It was really radical, to go to 16" wheels, 10 years ago, 17" were hardly heard of, and there wasn't any that could handle the weight of the Q, in a performance environment.

I say, go 17", and go light. Keep the 16" for SCCA events.

HeavyDuty
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I kinda like the grill too. Can that gold carp be removed?

Maybe call a gold guy and ask how much to remove it?

That'd go over well. :D

If you decide to sell it, Ryan, I might be interested if 1QckSER doesn't want it.

I had 16x8's on my 77.5 Z28 in 1985. I made friends with the C4 Corvette guys real quick for their hand-me-down 255/50/16's. I was 18 at the time & only made enough money in a week to buy one new Gatorback.

LOL @ Hitman with the Nancy comment.

Erebuni, Stillen, Wings West, Xenon, all share some of each others designs on their sites.

1992Q45A
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Let me put it this way.

Let's say someone completely reupholestered your Q with gorgeous soft leather. Door panels, door arm rests, door grips, front/rear seats, console arm rest. Basically everywhere. Let's say your interior was in 100% perfect condition, carpeting included. Would you want a rollcage detracting from the fine interior?

Q interior is already pimp as it is, but this car not only has been reupholestered, but the interior is in such good condition, I feel the cage detracts from it.

Kryder put this cage in, along with gutting the AC, and cutting the bumper. They made race car modifications, while stillen made street car modifications.

I originally wanted the cage. I had no idea stillen went to such great extents to upgrade the interior. It also has a custom center console which really looks clean and OEM. I'll have to get pics for you guys.

Hmm now If I upholstered the cage with leather like the indy pace car q... lol out of damage :)

Don't worry if it comes out, one of you guys will end up with it....

My biggest concern is how to "plug" so to speak, where it was bolted to the frame. As far as I know it was bolted, and not welded. When I get the car back, I'll take a bunch of pics, then you guys can have a better idea of what I'm talking about..

MiniMan
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That was my plan if I got it. It'd be easy as heck to do too... rap it in some inexpensive foam (like what you see on little kids bikes), then wrap that in a sheet of leather that you've sewn velcro too... it'd work like a charm. If you end up keeping it, I'd suggest you do something like this.

As far as filling the holes go, I couldn't see it costing more than a couple hundred bucks via your local repair shop.

When you're posting up pics of the cage, make sure you take some of the interior too! I want to see this leather. :)

Corey

HeavyDuty
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So you wanna sell the grill? :D

1992Q45A
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http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co...52955

How could you not want that, it's gorgeous!

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AZhitman
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I thnik the cage should be painted body color - Bring some of the outside in... How could that detract from the beauty?

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phenryiv1
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We definately need some pics of the interior/cage to give you a real opinion on whether to leave the cage or yank it out. This is not a car that we can easily picture in our minds- some extensive pics will help.

I fit were me and I had the 16" rims already on the car, I would get new tires for it and run with them. If the brakes clear the rims, now, consider having the outside edge of the calipers machined down ever so slightly, since you are refinishing them anyway.

If the brakes fit 16"s, I would the 16"s on there to limit your expenses at this point. 4 good 16" tires will cost a lot less than 4 17" tires of the same model/design, plus you will have to cough up the $ for 17" rims. If money is no object, then go with 17"s. But if it is, then consider the fact that any 17" rims that will look good on there are definately going to set you back $1k or more- plus tires.

Anyway, my $0.02...

1992Q45A
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Phen,

Thanks for your comments. I am leaning towards the 16s. I can get real nice ZR rated 16s for $500 or so.

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phenryiv1
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The Falken ZIEX-ZE-512 are a good buy, but I am not 100% sure on availability in the 245-255 /50/ 16 that you want.

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phenryiv1
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AZhitman wrote:I thnik the cage should be painted body color - Bring some of the outside in... How could that detract from the beauty?


A good idea, but with the interior already installed, the masking and prep would be expensive (if the shop does it) and time-consuming if he does it himself. Basically, the whole interior woudl have to come out- carpets, seats, headliner, trim panels, etc.

All that would be in there woudl be the dash. If he does it himself, then he woudl have to leave the driver's seat in there to get it to the shop.

Does the Q have fault sensors that send alerts or warning lights if the seats' electronic controls are nt plugged in? I know in an Audi if you try to start the car w/o the seats' electronic controls hooked up, the computer goes into a safe mode (to prevent theft).

1992Q45A
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Thanks again for all your suggestions/input. Very informative and super helpfull.

I found the Automobile magazine. It's Feburary 93. I am going to order a copy today. I'll scan it up when I get it

1992Q45A
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I have decided to 'nix the grill, and stick with the emblem.

Who wants the emblem.. I don't know what a fair price for it is, I just know on the yahoo jp auctions it goes for $200 or so...

mail me at [email protected]

Heavy you showed interest first, so I will reserve it for ya!

HeavyDuty
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1992Q45A wrote:I have decided to 'nix the grill, and stick with the emblem.

Who wants the emblem... I don't know what a fair price for it is, I just know on the yahoo jp auctions it goes for $200 or so...

mail me at [email protected]

Heavy you showed interest first, so I will reserve it for ya!


Do you mean who wants the grill?

If so, does it bolt on to the emblem holes or stick on? I hope it doesn't stick on.

1992Q45A
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Whoops my bad.

Yea, I mean the grill...

Heavy not sure.. take a look at those pics that 1ck put up. it's that same grill. I'll take some pics of the grill as well.

Here is what one guy said regarding my cage.

Ron said he has to remove all of the seats, carpet and ceiling interior upholstery so as not to damage them while he is cutting the cage out. Because he doesn't want to cut the cage from to close to the actual structure of the inside of the car he is not sure if there will be any value to the cage after he is done. He wants to cut it in the middle of the assembly. Safest way to protect the car. Price to remove $500 Big job = 2 days work

What do you guys think?

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phenryiv1
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I still think that with pics of the interior that we can better advise you. I hate sounding like a broken record, but I don't feel confident giving you major advice without more info...

1992Q45A
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I don't blame ya! I need to get some pics!

HeavyDuty
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1992Q45A wrote:Whoops my bad.

Yea, I mean the grill...

Heavy not sure.. take a look at those pics that 1ck put up. it's that same grill. I'll take some pics of the grill as well.

Price to remove $500 Big job = 2 days work

What do you guys think?


Hmmm, it kinda looks like it bolts on in place, but the two end tabs look like it just sticks on, I don't know if I could trust the tape, but I have some stuff that might work OK.

I think for $500, I'd get some headliner material & cover the bar.

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AZhitman
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:Werd

Do I need to start a "save the cage" campaign here? :)

Nathan
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Save the cage :) You got a nice looking car with a great interior and a professional quality cage allready installed...thats friekin awesome. Just make certain you put some foam around that cage, wouldn't want you loosing your brains in a wreck!

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rsiwicki
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very nice looking Q Ryan...and the body kit is one of the best I have ever seen....keep the wheels they look great.

I like the lowered look but I am sure as you say impossible to drive daily...maybe they somehow lowered the suspension to ride that stiff/firm for racing purposes since the car was track driven only?

Rolll cage...well we need pics to really see the effects of the cage and how cramp it would be with it ...personally if it was my daily driver it would be out or I would have it very nicely padded to color match the interior.

Got to ask...how fast have you had it up to??? and do you feel your 2 HP peaks compared to your 94 Q?

1992Q45A
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RSI! ltns :)

It is not I repeat NOT supposed to be that low. First the active suspension is not functioning. That and there is a transmission + other spare parts (actuators and such) in the trunk, weighing it down bad..

So far it needs

2 rear calipersFront/rear rotorsfront/rear pads

Looks like a good place to order is from here:http://courtesyparts.com/Merch...brake

Looking at about $700 for 4 rotors and front/rear set of hawk pads.. The calipers are 350 each OUCH...

I'm going to have all the spark plug/fuses replaced. Also doing a change of the active suspension fluid.

I think it's something to do with the fuses as to why the suspension is in lock down mode.. Like I said the slip/tcs light button are permanently lit... hitting the tcs button does nothing, same with moving the n/h height adjuster... Interior lights don't function either.

I think they also upgraded the carpet. First thing up is the brakes. Even if the suspension is not functioning I can drive it with new brakes... Drive it to a shop who has active susp knowledge that is...

RSI,I backed it out, drove it maybe 100 ft, and immediately parked it. It was unbareable. It would be somewhat managable had all that crap not been in it. Anyway I have tomorrow off so I'm going to go down and get some pics of the cage/interior etc for you guys.

So far nobody has said to remove the cage. You guys are more hardcore then I thought :)

Hopefully when I get this automobile magazine article on the car, it will have some test numbers (accel/braking/g's etc..)

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phenryiv1
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Do you mind me asking from where you bought it and what you paid for it?

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AZhitman
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Ryan - Where are you gonna get the caliper brackets? Gotta have those to run the bigger rotors...

Also, I think 16's (and some 17's) are out of the question with those due to the diameter and different hat height.

Good call on the Hawk pads.


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