Why cant I burn out
Anything past the MAF is probably fine for a mist decarb. For a liquid decarb (Seafoam), the brake booster is probably the only hose that'll work, unless you tilt the front of the car up. Otherwise the liquid will just run down into the air filter. Don't pass any liquid through the brake booster check valve. Be very careful to not hydrolock when using a liquid decarb.
That's one experiment I've yet to observe. The liquid probably softens up the carbon better, but it would be very limited in the path it takes through the combustion chamber. Pour it down the brake booster hose, and it won't clean out the TB, and I have to wonder how evenly distributed it would be to all 8 runners. Not very even, I would guess. The fogger, though, would pass cleaner through the TB and would touch all walls, and would also get divided up into all runners.
the point of a plenum cleaning and how it affects power needs to be understood before one can discuss effective on-vehicle methods for cleaning.
As far as I understand the runners and plenum properly have a very fine but rough surface that helps with proper atomization of fuel and also affects air flow to ensure fuel is properly carried to the chamber.
So the point of the cleaning must remove buildup from the all sides of the runner walls. Once the hash on the runner walls is exposed, fuel will be more evenly atomized and more evenly dispersed through the chamber, resulting in a cleaner more powerful burn. Since the spark must pass through a suspended droplet of fuel, smaller fuel droplets increase the odds and reduce mis-fires.
Short of the cleaner already being throughly atomized before injection into the I don't see how the walls of runner are going to get cleaned. I'd note too that the majority of the cleaner will pass uselessly into chamber.
For really dirty engine, I'm concluding that a mechanical cleaning will be in order, the mist will be like trying to clean grease off your hands with just hot water. If you can't fit you hand past the throttle, pull the plenum and maybe even the fuel rail and runners. This is all labor and just $15 in acetone and shop rags.
As far as I understand the runners and plenum properly have a very fine but rough surface that helps with proper atomization of fuel and also affects air flow to ensure fuel is properly carried to the chamber.
So the point of the cleaning must remove buildup from the all sides of the runner walls. Once the hash on the runner walls is exposed, fuel will be more evenly atomized and more evenly dispersed through the chamber, resulting in a cleaner more powerful burn. Since the spark must pass through a suspended droplet of fuel, smaller fuel droplets increase the odds and reduce mis-fires.
Short of the cleaner already being throughly atomized before injection into the I don't see how the walls of runner are going to get cleaned. I'd note too that the majority of the cleaner will pass uselessly into chamber.
For really dirty engine, I'm concluding that a mechanical cleaning will be in order, the mist will be like trying to clean grease off your hands with just hot water. If you can't fit you hand past the throttle, pull the plenum and maybe even the fuel rail and runners. This is all labor and just $15 in acetone and shop rags.
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AZhitman
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Good point.
As I've posted before, I've had good luck with removing the TB and using shop rags soaked in TB cleaner. Most of the inside of the plenum can be reached by hand (if you're thin and double-jointed). Have your wife/GF/kids help you out here if necessary... and for the rest, well... Get creative!
We have opposable thumbs and the ability to make tools - That's what seperates us from the rest of the animal kingdom.
As I've posted before, I've had good luck with removing the TB and using shop rags soaked in TB cleaner. Most of the inside of the plenum can be reached by hand (if you're thin and double-jointed). Have your wife/GF/kids help you out here if necessary... and for the rest, well... Get creative!
We have opposable thumbs and the ability to make tools - That's what seperates us from the rest of the animal kingdom.
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maxnix
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1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
You know what I mean. I just can't tell you.
Not to mention the lack of syntax.AZhitman wrote:...as evidenced by the 2 misspelled words above....
(j/k)
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elwesso
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DAM*!!!!! I just bought some top engine cleaner and tried to run it through, but it doesnt come with a straw, so i tried to run it through anyway, turns out it ran all over the driveway, and in the intake (it managed to get on the air filter, fortunately it didnt ignite the MAF), so i have to go back and get something else!!!
Where did you pour it in? how much did you pour? it should have been sucked into the fuel system...
You all also realize using small amounts of water through the brake booser vac line will work just as well as those cleaners... dribble some water (very little at a time as to not hydrolock) and it will turn to steam and is actually quite good at lifting oil deposits and the like...
I'm still really curious how you managed to get it on your driveway and into your intake... it may help to have someone sit in your car and hold an elated idle.. create more vacuum...
Hitman, dont make me steal LTQ away
She is a hottie eh?
You all also realize using small amounts of water through the brake booser vac line will work just as well as those cleaners... dribble some water (very little at a time as to not hydrolock) and it will turn to steam and is actually quite good at lifting oil deposits and the like...
I'm still really curious how you managed to get it on your driveway and into your intake... it may help to have someone sit in your car and hold an elated idle.. create more vacuum...
Hitman, dont make me steal LTQ away
She is a hottie eh?-
elwesso
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It didnt have a straw, so i had to try and aim the mist in a little crevase, and most of it just ran out from under the intake hose, and partially in.... I took of the intake hose and put it over the TB just enough to keep the engine running....... My brake booster hose it hard, so i dont want to take it off and take the change of breaking it.... Most of it went to the driveway (and the rest of the underhood area by the TB) and a little tiny bit went into the TB......
Jesda wrote:I get a good squeal on factors like pavement, engine temp, etc. On a good cool day I can leave a couple feet of tread.
My car has not been meticulously maintained.
ahh, but you have a 92. 90-93's are known to have more power than 94-96's.
maybe this is why i have trouble burning out: (that's a 12 inch ruler)
ok buddy, I kept hoping someone would weigh in with some suggestions but I haven't seen anything serious beyond a suggested plenum cleaning.
Here's my two cents:
After each step report back what you find.
1. Run the self diagnosis on the ECU and O2 sensors - free
2. Do all the normal tune up / trouble check stuff: timing / air filter follow the hesitation diagnosis prodcedure in the service manual, ohm the injectors and knock sensors - free if you have a timing light with a volt meter check the outputs of the MAF, temp sensor, TPS inspect every inch of every hose for cracks, loose hoses do a fuel pressure check (check it between the rails up front) check for proper operation of EGR, canister and PCV systems
3. Get and injector/ fuel rail flush using the BG products little three can kit - not DIY for the average guy (should include a high quality plenum cleaning) ($125)
4. Get a power balance test - get a photocopy or the original report and type it in here. - ($ not a lot if combinded with rail flush)
5. Do a compression test (DIY) and/or pay to have a leak down test done. ($ ?)
6. Pull the plenum and inpect the intake valves for severe deposits.
7. Have the cats checked for excessive back-pressure (really only a high RPM problem)
Here's my two cents:
After each step report back what you find.
1. Run the self diagnosis on the ECU and O2 sensors - free
2. Do all the normal tune up / trouble check stuff: timing / air filter follow the hesitation diagnosis prodcedure in the service manual, ohm the injectors and knock sensors - free if you have a timing light with a volt meter check the outputs of the MAF, temp sensor, TPS inspect every inch of every hose for cracks, loose hoses do a fuel pressure check (check it between the rails up front) check for proper operation of EGR, canister and PCV systems
3. Get and injector/ fuel rail flush using the BG products little three can kit - not DIY for the average guy (should include a high quality plenum cleaning) ($125)
4. Get a power balance test - get a photocopy or the original report and type it in here. - ($ not a lot if combinded with rail flush)
5. Do a compression test (DIY) and/or pay to have a leak down test done. ($ ?)
6. Pull the plenum and inpect the intake valves for severe deposits.
7. Have the cats checked for excessive back-pressure (really only a high RPM problem)
gibbo80 wrote:have you tried power braking or torque braking, i dont know what it is called. I am talking about holding brake untill your stall converter wont let you anymore. Its 1800 i believe on my 240
yeah he tried that - actually in that case the torque convertor becomes a sort of dynometer with the turbine side locked through the transmission. In such a situation every engine/torque convertor has a particular stall speed when the engine is properly tuned. On the first gen Q it's 2200RPM. Since his ran only 1500 RPM, the concern isn't so much burning out, but why the engine is underpowered.
So he's looking for ways to bring the power of the Q, which generally doesn't need anything besides WOT to let out a little screech.
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Chally
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Quote »Once the hash on the runner walls is exposed, fuel will be more evenly atomized and more evenly dispersed through the chamber, resulting in a cleaner more powerful burn. [/quote]
Just a point, fuel doesn't get mixed with air in the plenumn chambers on the Q's. The fuel gets injected just before the intake valve.
As for cleaning them out, the best method I've found is Removing the Plenumn & soaking with a good degreaser.
I've run some, supposedly "GOOD" cleaner through, & the Plenumn was still reasonably dirty. With it off, I could get the alloy to shine again. (on the inside)
As for spinning the wheels, I have 225 tires fitted, & now I can spin them for 5-10ft & then it just shoots off. If I tramp it & turn at the same time, I can do huge power slides, even when turning a corner at 30mph, if I tramp it, it just goes sideways! Heaps of fun.
Saying that though, I have fitted New Knock sensors, New Temp. sensor, New Thermostat, Cleaned the terminals on the Throttle Switch, Crank Angle switch & Air Meter, with a fine steel brush, & chemically cleaned the "sensor" plugs as well & then sealed them to stop moisture getting in. I also use the BEST fuel I can find (98 octane)NGK plugs & a Good quality oil, (Valvoline Durablend, 10w-40) & it all adds up to giving those extra HP you need, & of course want.
Just a point, fuel doesn't get mixed with air in the plenumn chambers on the Q's. The fuel gets injected just before the intake valve.
As for cleaning them out, the best method I've found is Removing the Plenumn & soaking with a good degreaser.
I've run some, supposedly "GOOD" cleaner through, & the Plenumn was still reasonably dirty. With it off, I could get the alloy to shine again. (on the inside)
As for spinning the wheels, I have 225 tires fitted, & now I can spin them for 5-10ft & then it just shoots off. If I tramp it & turn at the same time, I can do huge power slides, even when turning a corner at 30mph, if I tramp it, it just goes sideways! Heaps of fun.
Saying that though, I have fitted New Knock sensors, New Temp. sensor, New Thermostat, Cleaned the terminals on the Throttle Switch, Crank Angle switch & Air Meter, with a fine steel brush, & chemically cleaned the "sensor" plugs as well & then sealed them to stop moisture getting in. I also use the BEST fuel I can find (98 octane)NGK plugs & a Good quality oil, (Valvoline Durablend, 10w-40) & it all adds up to giving those extra HP you need, & of course want.