VikesFan 300ZX TT Update Thread

[vikesfankevin1986]

BigTDogg What isn't realistic? I mean it will only be a weekend summer driver if and when I decide to do all of that. I do want it to be driveable on the street. There are some things I am not getting rid of. My radio and speakers only cut 20 lbs...I will keep that for the music. 70 lbs can be lost with suspension but I love the suspension on the car so I won't be touching that either. Light weight glass saves a lot of weight but it scratches easially so again won't do that. I will probably leave the passenger air bag in also so I know that my passenger is safe. The sound deadening sounds time consuming and might not be worth it, thats why it was undecided. But AC/Heat? I live in MN and the car won't be driven in the winter, no need for heat...AC, once again I live in MN I will roll down the windows. We aren't going to have 120 degree days and if we do the car will be parked anyways.

[vulcanrush]

Read this http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=56

Yes I know they are on high octane fuel but 450rwhp? I can't imagine these cars wouldnt get close to 400rwhp on pump gas. I know it isn't easy to get 400rwhp. That is why the call it the holy grail for stock turbos but if I do everything except turbos, including the intercoolers and stuff I see no reason it is possible. My car got dyno'd at 305rwhp and that is with just catback exhaust, JWT ECU and Popcharger. I will know more when I dyno it after the next set of upgrades.

i'm not saying it's not possible.

but reliability-wise...how realistic is it? you can dyno at 400rwhp, but what happens if you bust up your turbo's?

those are some nice cars in that blog, but if those guys have the money to buy whatever the heck they want, they can afford to play with their stock turbo's, you know what i mean?

from Eric Hsu over at Cosworth:

True Horsepower
What kind of power can the stock internals of an '03 Nissan 350Z engine handle? I'm looking into forced induction and would like to keep the stock internals, if possible. Is there a turbo kit you would prefer, and can you recommend a good tuner near Chicago?
-Chad Sweitzer
Shannon, IL

There are two types of stock internal horsepower ratings. One is based in reality and the other is what you see in some dumb-a** post on the forums. The lamest is when a forum member posts a thread with some outrageous number using stock internals, titled: "652whp/630tq @ 22psi-highest horsepower red '06 350z stock-internal VQ35DE on C16 fuel east of the Mississippi, south of the Mason Dixon line, in the 402 area code." Reliable, usable power limits are always lower than the one or two dyno passes a car can be tuned to put down before blowing up. A stock VQ35 is good for a max of about 400 hp at the wheels when tuned properly, if you want to be able to drive it daily or beat the crap out of it at the track. Any more than 400 whp and you stand a chance of breaking parts. Shops can build "one-run wonders" to make 600+ stock-block whp on race fuel, but it's just plain stupid to assume that a connecting rod won't exit the side of its block if you drive it like that at the track. I'm not too familiar with shops in the Chicago area, but Sound Performance comes to mind-their 1,280whp 350Z runs 9s on a stock six-speed transmission.

[Initial_Z]

[vikesfankevin1986]

I don't really see how that example is comparable. You are comparing a motor made to handle boost compared to a motor not made to handle it. I would be running 15psi which the stock internals can easially handle. I'm not one of those idiots trying to push 30psi. The car won't be a daily driver so it doesn't need to be THAT reliable. What happens if I bust up my turbos? Um get new ones or upgrade them. What happens if I buy new turbos or a crate motor and overheat the motor and fry everything? It doesn't need to be stock to be destroyed. Like I have been saying I would like to have EVERYTHING except the turbos upgraded making it as safe and reliable as possible. Money is an issue and I don't have enough to buy new turbos, barely enough to do the other upgrades. Yea I could do like some of the idiots out there and just get bigger turbos and boost controler and spend less money than what I am planning but it comes back to your reliablity point, if I slap on bigger turbos and don't do anything else, I am going to destory my motor.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Can you guys give me 1 real reason why upgrading everything EXCEPT turbos is bad/dangerous? Lets say I only make 380rwhp...what is the down side? Will the car suddenly blow up?

[vulcanrush]

it's not an exact comparison, per se, Kevin.

but the point i was trying to make is that, i wouldn't try to max something out. whether it's an engine or a turbo.

you can dyno 400rwhp, but how reliable is it going to be?

also, the only reason i'm bringing this up --- because after all, it's your car, and you're gonna do what you think is best --- is that, you say your funds are limited.

if you bust up your turbo, it's gonna cost more to install new ones (labor).

i don't get it, you say you're reluctant about the msp's because it requires an engine-removal...but then you say, "if i bust up my turbo's, just upgrade them or get new ones" like it's a quick and easy job. to install turbo's, it's easiest when the engine is out.

also, you're already close to 15 psi, Kevin, with the jwt ecu (boost jets), i'm assuming.

[vikesfankevin1986]

From the guys at specialtyZ
"You see, more boost does not always mean more power. A turbo is rated to run in an efficient area of boost that relates to how much air an engine can process. The less boost one can run and achieve the same or more power the better off you are. I know this sounds elementary, but most people have a belief that more boost equals more power. Take Terry's VG30DETT for example. For him to make 480 whp like he did on 93 octane he had larger exhaust, cams, inconel manifolds, larger intercoolers, piping, blah ,blah blah. If he didn't have let's say our 3" exhaust or larger intercoolers\piping, etc.. for him to make 480 whp it would have required him to make more boost (22-24 psi) AND run race fuel. Why? Because we've eliminated more restrictions in his system and made his setup more efficient. Hence his VG and 2554Rs don't have to work as hard to make the power. Make sense? More restriction can equal to more pressure or (boost) which can lead to compressor over-speed or choke. As well as extreme back pressure and engine damage. Learn to know the limits, and if you don't know, learn to ask someone who truly does. Class is over."

Yes it is pushing the turbos slightly but people have run 16 psi and even 18 on stock turbos for small amounts of time. I don't think 15 is too extreme. Hopefully I'm right and don't blow a turbo

[vikesfankevin1986]

And I thought I would mention if someone wants to donate a sport 530 turbo I will make sure I put it in my car

[vulcanrush]

The only thing about the manifolds that I was worried about is pulling the motor. I want to do that for sure but I don't know the cost of a motor pull.

a turbo upgrade would be easy as pie.

no, a turbo upgrade is not easy as pie, at least from my own experience. gotta remove the engine, or at least, makes it easier.

At least with the intercooler stuff you only have to remove the bumper. Everything I have read has said upgraded intercoolers.

have you ever installed intercooler piping's before, let alone 2.5'' intercooler piping's? pain-in-the-butt!!!

What happens if I bust up my turbos? Um get new ones or upgrade them. Money is an issue and I don't have enough to buy new turbos, barely enough to do the other upgrades.

that's why i don't want you to bust up your turbo's. and i thought money is an issue, you say "get new ones or upgrade them" so nonchalantly.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Obviously upgrading turbos isn't easy as pie. What I meant was I don't have to do all the other things to make it safe like exhaust, fuel injectors, intake, intercooler, ext. What I meant is it would be way easier to slap a turbo on my car with all those other upgrades done than it would be to put a turbo on my friends stang

[BigTDogg (MA)]

BigTDogg What isn't realistic?

A lot of it.

Below I've listed the things (IMO) that you're going to want to keep/keep stock:

Rear Tow Hooks -4.3lbs RWA -Will be nice if they ever need to tow you
Front Tow Hooks -3.6lbs FWA -Will be nice if they ever need to tow you
Battery Tray and Alarm Horn -7.8lbs FAW - Does not weigh that much. And alarm is not important to you? Might want to reconsider protecting your hard work.
After Market TT Wing -8lbs RWA - just delete the wing all together.
Rear Hatch -48.2lbs RWA - No hatch at all? or a fiberglass hatch?
4 piece UD Pulley set and OD Water Pump Pulley (I can't remember the stock weight of the pulleys or find my source so this is my best guess) -22lbs FWA - Stock is 12lbs, UR is 5.5lbs.
Light Weight Rotors -20lbs Center - 5lbs a corner if you stay with stock sizes, which is pointless if going for performance. 350Z two piece Stoptech rotors weigh as much as OEM 11" fronts.
Sound Deadening -33lbs Center -Not totally sure on this - Will be a loud car, gonna need a killer stereo to hear anything over it.
Airbag removal/Steering Wheel -28.3lbs FWA - Pretty sure that's illegal, def want to check with local laws. That's a little more obvious than running no emissions stuff.
Light Weight Wheels (not sure of the weight...if you know please let me know. I weighed the front wheel and tire at 38.4lbs and the rear at 43lbs. Light Weight Wheels can weigh as little as 18lbs for 18 inch rims) lets say -20lbs Center - http://www.wheelweights.net

Remove headlight aimers.
Remove HICAS and switch to NA pump and res, that's a good 35 lbs savings (for a 90-93TT, probably only about 15-20lbs for a 94+TT)
Lexan glass isn't street legal either, AFAIK.

As far as your power upgrades, there is nothing wrong, as I've said before, with building a big base to support future upgrades. 2.5" IC plumbing with the Z1 TBs and 3" exhaust is great for stock turbos. And your exhaust manifolds will be a bottleneck, yes, but you'll still have noticeable gains by doing everything else. Run 16 psi on your stock turbos with all those upgrades till they blow. When they blow, pull the engine, get some bigger turbos and the MSP manifolds, then drive sideways for a while Just keep the shiny side up!

[Z31toZ32]

I don't really see how that example is comparable. You are comparing a motor made to handle boost compared to a motor not made to handle it. I would be running 15psi which the stock internals can easially handle. I'm not one of those idiots trying to push 30psi. The car won't be a daily driver so it doesn't need to be THAT reliable. What happens if I bust up my turbos? Um get new ones or upgrade them. What happens if I buy new turbos or a crate motor and overheat the motor and fry everything? It doesn't need to be stock to be destroyed. Like I have been saying I would like to have EVERYTHING except the turbos upgraded making it as safe and reliable as possible. Money is an issue and I don't have enough to buy new turbos, barely enough to do the other upgrades. Yea I could do like some of the idiots out there and just get bigger turbos and boost controler and spend less money than what I am planning but it comes back to your reliablity point, if I slap on bigger turbos and don't do anything else, I am going to destory my motor.

you are putting too much thought into making 400whp.

ecu, intake, exhaust, downpipes, testpipes, upgraded intercoolers, boost set at 15, ud pulleys. with soem beefy side mounts, i personally think you will be very close to your goal. run it and evaluate, make appropriate changes if you dont get 400, such as upgrading turbos and injectors. case closed.

[vikesfankevin1986]

BigTDogg What isn't realistic?

A lot of it.

Below I've listed the things (IMO) that you're going to want to keep/keep stock:

Rear Tow Hooks -4.3lbs RWA -Will be nice if they ever need to tow you
Front Tow Hooks -3.6lbs FWA -Will be nice if they ever need to tow you
Battery Tray and Alarm Horn -7.8lbs FAW - Does not weigh that much. And alarm is not important to you? Might want to reconsider protecting your hard work.
After Market TT Wing -8lbs RWA - just delete the wing all together.
Rear Hatch -48.2lbs RWA - No hatch at all? or a fiberglass hatch?
4 piece UD Pulley set and OD Water Pump Pulley (I can't remember the stock weight of the pulleys or find my source so this is my best guess) -22lbs FWA - Stock is 12lbs, UR is 5.5lbs.
Light Weight Rotors -20lbs Center - 5lbs a corner if you stay with stock sizes, which is pointless if going for performance. 350Z two piece Stoptech rotors weigh as much as OEM 11" fronts.
Sound Deadening -33lbs Center -Not totally sure on this - Will be a loud car, gonna need a killer stereo to hear anything over it.
Airbag removal/Steering Wheel -28.3lbs FWA - Pretty sure that's illegal, def want to check with local laws. That's a little more obvious than running no emissions stuff.
Light Weight Wheels (not sure of the weight...if you know please let me know. I weighed the front wheel and tire at 38.4lbs and the rear at 43lbs. Light Weight Wheels can weigh as little as 18lbs for 18 inch rims) lets say -20lbs Center - http://www.wheelweights.net

Remove headlight aimers.
Remove HICAS and switch to NA pump and res, that's a good 35 lbs savings (for a 90-93TT, probably only about 15-20lbs for a 94+TT)
Lexan glass isn't street legal either, AFAIK.

As far as your power upgrades, there is nothing wrong, as I've said before, with building a big base to support future upgrades. 2.5" IC plumbing with the Z1 TBs and 3" exhaust is great for stock turbos. And your exhaust manifolds will be a bottleneck, yes, but you'll still have noticeable gains by doing everything else. Run 16 psi on your stock turbos with all those upgrades till they blow. When they blow, pull the engine, get some bigger turbos and the MSP manifolds, then drive sideways for a while Just keep the shiny side up!

Maybe I was going a little crazy with the weight reduction and a lot of that wouldn't be until way down the road anyways. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't their OEM steering wheels without an airbag?
The alarm in my car does not work anyways. It had an aftermarket viper kit thing but the b**** that had the car before stepped on the controler so it didn't work. Plus I had the piece taken off the trunk because there was a problem with the latch.
The UR UD pulley does not weight that much. I got the 4 piece set and the weight on the box for shipping was under 5lbs for all 4 pieces. I just stepped on the scale holding the UD pulley and it is def less than 5 lbs. Plus I have the OD pulley also.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't their OEM steering wheels without an airbag?
The alarm in my car does not work anyways. It had an aftermarket viper kit thing but the b**** that had the car before stepped on the controler so it didn't work. Plus I had the piece taken off the trunk because there was a problem with the latch.
The UR UD pulley does not weight that much. I got the 4 piece set and the weight on the box for shipping was under 5lbs for all 4 pieces. I just stepped on the scale holding the UD pulley and it is def less than 5 lbs. Plus I have the OD pulley also.

The 1990s and some 1991s had no driver side airbag, but I think "tampering" with an airbag may be illegal. And if you have inspections in your area, it could pose problems for a street car. This is all "I think" stuff, because I haven't looked into it my self.

If you get the S/N from the brain you can order new transmitters. At least you can with some DEI products. Just need some way to verify ownership.

Yup, I was way off on the pulleys, lol:

Product Weight: 1.53lbs
OEM Weight: 11.42lbs

Good thing you have the HI OD pulley for the water pump, your car and cooling system will thank you for that.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Hey of the performance upgrades I plan to do what would require a tune? (parts are listed on page 2) I know the dual air intake and I would imagine the fuel injectors. Does a boost controler or water injection require anything major? What about intercoolers? Throttle bodies might but just plain intercoolers? I'm trying to find this out so I know what I should spend my money on next summer. I want to do all the stuff that requires a tune at the same time. I have enough money for the parts I want but labor is going to kill me. I think my buddy could do the exhaust manifold and the intercooler/pipes/throttle bodies if it doesnt require a tune.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Hey of the performance upgrades I plan to do what would require a tune? (parts are listed on page 2) I know the dual air intake and I would imagine the fuel injectors. Does a boost controler or water injection require anything major? What about intercoolers? Throttle bodies might but just plain intercoolers? I'm trying to find this out so I know what I should spend my money on next summer. I want to do all the stuff that requires a tune at the same time. I have enough money for the parts I want but labor is going to kill me. I think my buddy could do the exhaust manifold and the intercooler/pipes/throttle bodies if it doesnt require a tune.

Only thing you listed which needs an EPROM flash is the injector upgrade. The Selin dual MAF converter does not require a reflash. Once you get everything done and installed, then you can tune to get maximum performance. Not much tuning you can do unless you have an SAFC or Nistune to adjust your air/fuel ratio at the least.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Ok cool. I know before on the site everyone was saying I need to get a tune for the selin dual MAF. I wanted to do that before but everyone said it was safer to get a tune. By tune they probably mean adjust air/fuel ratio.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Ok cool. I know before on the site everyone was saying I need to get a tune for the selin dual MAF. I wanted to do that before but everyone said it was safer to get a tune. By tune they probably mean adjust air/fuel ratio.

Typically that's what is done in a basic tune, getting your AFR to about 12.5.

Nistune allows you to edit other parameters, VTC timing, complex fuel and timing maps amongst other things.

The Selin was designed to be a true plug and play, no mater what ECU type you have . It works with both single and dual POP ECUs.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Ok its for sure! Clutch will be done in a couple weeks. I'm gone next week but then I drop the car off next saturday and will be done by that wednesday for sure!

[vulcanrush]

Tony is one of the most knowledgeable z-people i know, so i'll just chalk it up to/assume he's bored when typing it, but it's 11.5 to 1!!!!!!

12.5 and your engine will run too lean, which is what one of my friend's cars did.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Kind of a random question but how much hp can you "butt dyno" notice? Can you feel something like a 5 hp gain or does it have to be closer to 20? Just kind of wondering because when I had my cats cut out and replaced with straight pipes I could feel a difference and I just want an idea how much hp I might have gained.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Here is the new upgrade list after my last additions.
Popcharger
Stillen 2.5" catback exhaust
JWT ECU
Greddy Turbo Timer
Cats cut out
SZ 3" Down Pipes
RSP Max Street Clutch (with Chromoly Clutch Pivot Ball, IPP Nissan Clutch Line, OEM Auto transmission Mount)
Fidanza Flywheel
SZ Subframe Bushings

Next on the list is...
120K miles kit
Radiator Cap
UD Pulley set/OD Pulley

SZ 3" Test Pipes
Aluminium 1 piece Drive Shaft

Upgraded Radiator (Thinking Z1/Howe)
Upgraded Oil Cooler (Stillen)
Z1 Chrome Lower Radiator Hose

Those upgrades are what I would like to get done before next summer.
Next summer I get 7,500 to spend. The motor will be coming out so I wanted to take advantage of that and do things that require tuning. Here is the plan...

Selin Dual MAF Translator/Dual Intake
Blitz Dual-SBC Spec S Boost Controller (I think this is good enough unless you all have a different opinion)
Guages (Probably a pod of 3. Not sure what I should get. Boost for sure, Maybe Air/Fuel)
Nismo 615cc Injectors
Nissan 300zx EFI/EGI Wiring Harness
All silicone hoses (if you think this is nessicery)
Mike Smith VG30 Cast Manifolds
Weight Reduction (Stuff like AC/Heat and Emissions stuff)
King Z Nose Pannel/Repainted Rear Bumper

I will see where money is after that. Here are the last things I have planned...
Upgraded Intercooler
2.5" Intercooler Piping
Upgraded Throttle Bodies
Racing Seats

I think that is everything as far as power goes. Hopefully that will get me to 400rwhp. If I missed anything let me know. After that I will look at rims, paint job, suspension, breaks in no certain order. If I'm not at 400 rwhp maybe I can get a couple IPP stickers...I lol it even says this for them...
A perfect addition to any car. The Import Parts Pro 2.5" x 10" window sticker. Perfect way to add additional HP to any car :-)
I think they add like 5rwhp a piece so at 2 bucks a sticker that is an awesome dollar to hp ratio

[vikesfankevin1986]

Hey just wanted to mention that if anyone is into History, Religion, Aliens, or origins or just like interesting stuff I posted something in the politics section. It has a video by Graham Hancock. It is fairly long (an hour and 40 minutes) but he talks about the possible existance of an advanced civilization on Earth 12,000 year ago. Being agnostic, it was very interesting to me because it supports the Bible but also offers reasons why it says what it does.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Hey for dress up would you guys suggest any of these?
Z1 Chrome Caps
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1796
Windshield / T-top moulding kit
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1544
All upgraded silicone hoese from IPP
Nismo Oil Cap (IPP)
Nismo Radiator Cap (IPP)
CZP Polished Radiator Guide
http://www.importpartspro.com/czp30poragu.html
And Carbon Fiber:
Throttle Cable Cover
Radiator Guide
Fog Light Air Ducts
Fan Shroud
found at
http://www.powertrix.com/z32cf_dup.htm

Would you guys get any of these?

[es.biggs]

Hey man I don't know much about the dress up stuff but I wanted to let you know, in my state, air bags aren't even part of safety inspections for cars...and I would still check your local laws but I doubt they have anything about airbags. Just FYI, if you were still thinking about the steering wheel thing

[vikesfankevin1986]

Good to know. We don't have inspections here so I may still consider the steering wheel but I think I should keep the passenger airbag anyways. Any imput about the performance upgrades a couple of replys up?

[vikesfankevin1986]

New sig Found it on some Mustang forum. The posters name was the best part.

Originally Posted by musclecars>foreigncrap

And idk if its carborated or fuel injected. Its stock so would it be fuel or carborated?

[Noah793]

These mods are a good base to start on....if you have a healthy motor/fresh motor. This is what my brothers build is,it dynoed a lil over 400whp @ 15psi. With larger intercoolers,and c16 tune/meth injected he plans on running over 550 whp on stock internals. The motor currently runs smooth as butter,nothing wrong at all.

GT28RS turbos
5 bolt split down pipes
740cc Injectors
Custom tuned ecu by Harry at Ztuners
Z1 test pipes
Custom 3” exhaust

Fidanza lightweight flywheel
ACT stage 3 clutch
Upgraded pressure plate
Z1 1 piece aluminum drive shaft

[vikesfankevin1986]

Well 15-16psi is what I'm aiming for. Sounds like I'm right in that range.

[vikesfankevin1986]

Also got my Nismo radiator cap and Nismo oil cap today