Yeah, I'll have to do something for the CAS. The downpipe will be wrapped and I'll put some kind of heat shielding on all the sensitive areas.midnightsliding wrote:...kinda of sketchy on the CAS. might be a lil hot.
Wes, there's still a lot more to do. The hot side piping is taking forever to build. It's my first build so there is a lot of trial and error with cutting and welding of the tubes. I figure that I have at least another month to go.elwesso wrote:So what is left? Seems like just plumb the pressure side through the intercooler and back to the TB?
Looks great siju... Cant wait to see videos of this thing.
The setup is going to be a single based on a large frame T-76. I'm using modified stock manifolds and stainless tubing for the pre-turbo hot side.radride wrote:Are you going single turbo or twin? If you are going twin then I think the t76 is too big but if you are going single it should work out fine. Also do you have equal runners going to your turbo (equal lengths of pipe going from the manifolds to the exaust side of the turbo)? If not that will hinder performance a bit. Also what size of wastegate are you going with? Is it going to be vented to atmosphere or plumbed back into the exhaust? How much boost are you going to run?
R.K.
The turbo is a T6 flanged T-76.ScottJackson wrote:I didn't realize the body of the T76 turbo was that large. It looks a lot to me like a TV71 turbo. But then again, I'm no expert by any means and I'm more familiar with Holsets.
lasoyafan wrote:more pics!
Wes, thanks for the compliment. The welds were ground down which makes a big difference in appearance.elwesso wrote:Siju I envy your craftsmanship, those parts are better than a lot of aftermarket parts I see.
Yes, the pre-cats were removed from the stock manifolds and then tubing was added so I could weld on a flange. If you look at the pic all the way on top you can see the passenger side in the beginning stage of modification.elwesso wrote: Are the stock manifolds basically the stock manifolds except you tookoff the precat and put a new flange on it? Its hard to tell, did you actually put in new pipes from the flange into the collector? Those things look really nice!
My design doesn't change the position of the manifolds so the EGR tube and O2 sensors stay in place. The driver's side crosses over to the pass side and then both sides flow together in one pipe that goes behind the trans and then forward to the turbo. I was always going to place the turbo in the driver's side. It's the only logical place for a decent sized turbo. If I can cram a large frame T6 flanged turbo in the engine bay, then anyone can turbo their Q since most turbos are going to be smaller than mine. But I'm an extreme kind of person and I wanted a big turbo. I just hope that it spools up sometime in this century.elwesso wrote:Basically to me it looks like you have the manifolds in a very stock position and then you juts have a hot pipe that goes back up to the turbo, and then another down pipe from the hot side of the turbo. Did you decide to move the turbo to the drivers side? I bet due to clearance?
It would be a shame to get rid of your strut brace. I like it better than the Stillen piece I had before. The only thing I did was adapt the Stillen end pieces to work with your brace.Jeff Williams wrote:Prety cool that you can keep the front strut tower brace on the car!
The guys on TV have the benefit of unseen hands that do the menial work. Plus they have a nice shop with whole bunch of cool equipment. I'm doing everything in my driveway and most of my "cool equipment" comes from Harbor Freight.Jeff Williams wrote:Good work! I know that all that piping is a real PITA to get perfect. Jesse James makes it look easy on TV, but it is a real pain to get to fit.
I don't know how twins will fit in the engine bay without getting rid of the a/c. Now, a rear mount system with twins is very do-able.Jeff Williams wrote:I think a twin setup would be easier to pipe.
The main reason for relocating the battery was to move the oil filter to somewhere more accessible and also to allow for a spot for the intercooler piping to enter the engine bay.elwesso wrote:I thoguht I remembered seeing that massive turbo on the passenger side, which is why you removed the battery?
Whatever the case is, I think I understand whats going on. It seems like theres a lot of unnecessary plumbing, but doing it this way is a lot easier than modifying manifolds. Pretty cool that the stock exhaust manifolds stayed pretty much the same.. I would just think itd be easier to make one manifold go right into the turbo and the other manifold have an Xover that dumps into the one manifold, but what do I know about turbo setups anyway...?
BTW you might post a quick little thing in the VH fourm, i know a lot of the VH guys dont come to the Q forum. I looked at some of your other pics and info and it looks pretty cool, very well thought out.... When do you estimate you'll start getting deep into boost? Certainly does not seem like a scenario where youll be seeing a few lbs of boost around 2000 RPM.
Shane, what about incorporating an intercooler into your rear mount setup? The one I am using is decent sized with a core of 26 x 10.5 x 3.5 and an overall length of 36 inches. I bought it from a company called Treadstone. Wasn't that the name of the CIA black ops in the Bourne Identity? LOL.qsiguy wrote:Intercooler looks awesome! Fits like a glove. What are the dimensions and make/model of it?
That is an oil cooler mounted that way because I have no other place to put it. As far as a cold air box, I might make some kind of heat shield around the filter. It is partially out of the engine bay as is. I'm not following your line of thought about the OEM filter boxes.maxnix wrote:I am lost on the last picture. Are you laying the ATF cooler horizontally?
Cold air box coming? Too bad there is not room for 2 OEM filter boxes.
Additional fuel will be handled by a combination of a Boost ECU programmed by Robert Bowen and also a BEGI FMU. I will check air/fuel ratios using a NGK Powerdex WideBand O2 meter. I probably won't ever take it to a dyno. For me, street tuning should be sufficient. As far as power output, it should be in the low to mid 400 hp level.bullittandy wrote:Looks great, very ingenious. I'm most interested in the tuning aspect because if you can get it tuned correctly then a rear mount turbo would be extremely easy to engineer as compared to an engine bay mount. I've seen two installs of rear mount turbos, one on a Mustang and the other on a Corvette. Both appeared to be very staight forward.
How will it be tuned? Will it be on a dyno at any point?
Good work!
Why 2 filter boxes? Even better, why would you bother with an OEM filter and airbox?