Turbo red glowing at cruise

[Luchitosan]

Hello guys, i have a issue w/ the exhaust and turbo cruisin on highway

From 50 mph the turbo and immediately the manifold goes glowing red, the wideband reads LEAN 16 to 18:1
the car is nearly stock right now, just rebuild the engine so need drive some miles before push it hard,
The fpr is an 36 psi
The Ecu is stock, MAF stock
Timing is 15 degrees setting with strobe gun
Cam and cas re check fine.

The only thing diferent are:

TURBO its bigger like gt28 ( i think) Maste power
IN A.r .42 / Air inlet 60.0 / Air oulet 49.0 / Ind wheel 46.4 / Exd wheel 60.0 / Trim 60 / BL 6
EX A.r .65 / Exd wheel 48.0 / Ind wheel 53.4 / Trim 81 / Bl 12

EXHAUST LINE it´s the stock 2" aprox, but rest some older blown turbo pieces in it, and maybe and "elephant" :p
i mean never clean it at all, the center pre-chamber muffler is bad.

So i think first fix the exhaust line but have so much force in the exhaust crusin at 50mph to be glowing?

If not working maybe need 40 psi of fpr to compensate the bigger turbo? At 75 goes 4k rpm (4.3 diff) with 0 boost.
the oem turbo t25 goes glowing to at 60 or 70 mph ?

Please, Tell me what you think maybe can up a video to you see it.

[themadscientist]

I never had that problem when I slapped the S14 turbo on, something isn't right. pull the catalytic converter out and so what you get. Your exhaust system might be plugged up, raising backpressure and causing this.

[float_6969]

Yea, that sounds like a plugged exhaust to me as well.

[boost_boy]

Your engine is running lean @ W.O.T and that can be from a number of variables. Until you resolve that problem, I wouldn't put too much load on your engine or your you'll be rebuilding that engine very soon.

[Luchitosan]

Hi thanks for response,
Themadscientist and Float is good to know that upgrading the turbo does not affected the exhaust.
I'm goona' free the exhaust to test if its plugged up, i just saw that the downpipe gasket (3 bolts triangular)
is leaking too, thats not good for the turbo and the wideband. This model don't have catalitic or lamba.

Boostboy, at WOT goin 11/12:1 but dont gonna play to much cause it's cost 3 year, work and money,
so the last i need is melted piston. I'm gonna reset the innovate wideband and free the exhaust.
I hope it works.

If not maybe raise the Fuel Pressure a few psi.

[Spawn_CA18]

if no lean mixture , blocked exh it is complicated then ordinary .

did you attach your cooling hoses(Oil & Water ) properly?

also did you change your tuning after turbo change?

Don't stress your car .

Do you have an EGT gauge btw?

[Luchitosan]

Hello,
The hoses are right don't leak or similar.
Cannot change the tuning its the oem ecu (non chip or anything similar)
Sadly, Non EGT gauge.

If i drove on street looks fine, but cruise its the problem.

I just reset the wideband, now i'm gonna change all the exhaust line for 3" stainless custom and check how works,
it's gonna take a few days cause is expensive around here.

Maybe can up a video so you guys see it ?

[Spawn_CA18]

surely it can help .


BTW is your turbo brand new? is there any chance that turbo is hybrid build by someone?



since your mixture is fine , i'm thinking maybe some mechanical problem on the turbo itself . excess friction inside CYRA maybe can cause over heating on it .

[Luchitosan]

Well i'm gonna, upload a video asap, re-check the position of the cams, (i don't think so cause i doble check that)
The turbo it's brand new Master Power i buy from his importer, can't be a hybrid. It has only 600 miles running,
in the past 3 years.

[Spawn_CA18]

Do you have Flex coupler in your downpipe ?

[Luchitosan]

Nop

[Luchitosan]

Why ? jeje

[Spawn_CA18]

i faced this here several times . chinese flex connector , inside shrinks for some reasons and acts like a restrictor .


Also now this image reminds to me another things hehe

[Luchitosan]

Ohh ... s***...!!! this is the line i think the mufler in the image is blocked with a... anything

[Luchitosan]

Well check the exhaust and its fine don't problem at all, nothing blocked...
i know is not the best exhaust you saw but came whit the car working



DSC04161 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04162 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04163 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04164 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04160 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

Just to make sure i drove a few miles with out exhaust, just the downpipe, and still the same,
I start to belive that my turbo is bad choosen maybe too small for this application...

surely it can help .




BTW is your turbo brand new? is there any chance that turbo is hybrid build by someone?



since your mixture is fine , i'm thinking maybe some mechanical problem on the turbo itself . excess friction inside CYRA maybe can cause over heating on it .

New Turbo Master power

DSC01044 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC01046 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


Old Turbo Garrett

DSC01076 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC01078 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

testing the car before rebuild the engine...

DSC01080 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

[Spawn_CA18]

Hey ,

i have an idea .

remove the spark plugs master connector in the backside of coilpack cover.

after that remove the oil feed from block , and crank the engine. 2 people needed for this job. Press your finger into oil feed check if any oil is coming or not.

Sometimes old oil with some machining dust can stuck in the oil feed and stop oil coming from there.

inform me , i have a solution for that if you couldn't see any oil coming.

cheers

[Luchitosan]

Ohh thanks i will check that this weekend and let you know. I can't sleep for this...

Ok, i gonna brief some facts:

- When i purchase it the car had a modified CAS and the turbo had the westgate actuator open
so drive it nearly N/A, i paid cheap so know this could happen...
(notice the cas in the picture 1 and 2 )
Pic 1

Auto_020 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
Pic 2

DSCN9075 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
(not ask for the giraffe...)

- then connect the westgate on to the garrett but runs like s***.

- then blow the Gb2525 oem

- put a Master power 802306

- And this happen ...
Pic 3

DSCN0038 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

- so rebuid the engine, the ecu is all stock (never chipped), new CAS (pic 4), timing, ect....
Pic 4

DSC01581 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
Pic 5

DSC02811 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
Pic 6 (Master power turbo installed)

DSC02815 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
this is the line you want to test

- Runs very well but...then the glowing problem, more soft, not like the picture 3...
i can paste a new one if you want...

- Then up the FPR from 36 to 40 lbs, and was better (less glowing even)

- But is all working stock except forged pistons and cometic hg,

Some doubts:
Can this new turbo is .63 turbine /.42 compresor... be too small for this upgrade?

Can the ecu retard the timming for knocking?
cause the Knock Sensor cables was cut it soI join the cables (thanks Float) to make it work.
knock-sensor-cut-wire-t499639.html

[float_6969]

This seems like an issue with really high EGT's. This can be caused by numerous things, but I'd like to confirm it. Is an EGT gauge in your budget?

[Luchitosan]

No, at first time but if i had to i purchase it.

But can i do some other tests (like Spawn said) before that ?

[Spawn_CA18]

I'think it is obvious that he has very high EGT so for now no need EGT gauge.

Lets go step by step . First check oil feed for turbo . If it is working we will continue to diagnose.

[Luchitosan]

i'm gonna let you know guys, how it works thanks for help me

[Luchitosan]

Well update...

I check the oil line that feeds the turbo: Ok

Run at night a few km and this is how it looks (the camera has a night setup but in fact was little red)

DSC04176 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04175 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04174 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04173 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

Then advance the timming a little (the white line is the oem 15°)

DSC04181 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

and run much much better and almost no glowing

DSC04180 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04179 por Luchitosan, en Flickr


DSC04178 por Luchitosan, en Flickr

I think that new forged pistons and some other minor stuff don't like to the Knock Sensor
frecuency and switch to Safe Modo (or some s*** like that)
If i disconnect the Plug fo KS goes to rich also ?

Someome think it may be another fault instead of this ?

[Luchitosan]

Up

[Spawn_CA18]

is your CAS pin on exhaust cam is on there ? or is it broken ?

by the way can you write your setup and put a video here for complete 3rd gear from bottom to redline ?

[Luchitosan]

The pin is broken but it has splines inside so can't be turned itself , isn't ?

the pin is like a guide to set ignition easily

[float_6969]

The splines have a bad habit of spinning inside the cam. This often happens in conjunction with the pin breaking, but not always. Usually you can tell that has happened by having to turn the CAS past it's normal adjustment to get the timing right. If you can get it set correctly and have it in the middle of the adjustment range, then you have it installed correctly and the splines haven't spun in the cam.

[boost_boy]

Problem identified. Your engine is running lean; very lean. It is not your turbo or manifold or a restricted exhaust. Either your injectors are clogged or your pump is insufficient or performing poorly. Definitely a fueling issue and I can tell by looking at the exhaust ports of your turbo manifold.

[Spawn_CA18]

Boost boy , he identified that his mixture is 11-12 at WOT .


my suggestion , find yourself a new exhaust cam with pin .

And be glad that you still didn't broke your engine from detonation .

[Luchitosan]

The splines have a bad habit of spinning inside the cam. This often happens in conjunction with the pin breaking, but not always. Usually you can tell that has happened by having to turn the CAS past it's normal adjustment to get the timing right. If you can get it set correctly and have it in the middle of the adjustment range, then you have it installed correctly and the splines haven't spun in the cam.

Boost boy , he identified that his mixture is 11-12 at WOT .


my suggestion , find yourself a new exhaust cam with pin .

And be glad that you still didn't broke your engine from detonation .

Well this is the 2th cam i replace for the pin issue, I only left one it w/ pin, so i'm gonna change it one more time.

First time the CAS sensor break like this:

P1000764 por Luchitosan, en Flickr
That was a good time for disassemble the CAS and learn how was inside. I find out that the CAS w/ the slide regulator cut ( the same that get w/ the car) was untouching inside so my Dad help me repair it.

Second time cause that put the new CAS you see in the pictures and new cam with pin...
put some grease, lube, check the fitting of the belt cover, etc to work fine then the cam pin break the CAS endure ... (so f u c k it).

There's any suggestion to twin this new 3th cam and CAS and don't break it again when run the engine at 4k rpm this time?

Problem identified. Your engine is running lean; very lean. It is not your turbo or manifold or a restricted exhaust. Either your injectors are clogged or your pump is insufficient or performing poorly. Definitely a fueling issue and I can tell by looking at the exhaust ports of your turbo manifold.

Well need to be honest, that was my first thought, up the PSI to 40 on the regulator was better, but not enough still run hot at exhaust , it has installed 255lbs fuel pump (china bay) and Nismo FPR w/ gauge in the engine, the injectors where tested in the best place i can find here and work the 4 exactly evenly.

Can you see a video of the running like Spawn suggest ? How do you guys want the set up to the test ?

[boost_boy]

DO you have the alignment dowel pins in the upper timing cover (there's two of them). If you do not, you will continue to break crank angle sensors.