turbo qustions

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
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240man91
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hi i need to know what to do with my egr an i was wondern if this was a good set up i have a stock sr20 t25 to put on my ka an i am going to b runing a large front mount intercooler to wit hstock sr injectors round 6pis of boost for driving an 10pis of boost for playn round an i am going to b runing a turbo header an a header dump. what kind of power can i expect out of it


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240man91
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o an i am lookn for 270 to 300 whp so will i b close an what kind of tune shouln i go with to get that out of it

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neverlift
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expect around 8hp per psi, an sr t25 or any t2 flange is a restriction for the 2.4 ka... could make 200ish around 10psi maybe a hair more, look to sell that stuff or get a larger t2 turbo to reach your goal... A t3 would be much easier to reach it.

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240man91
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o an for got to say i am runing a full 3in ex with hi flow cat an the intercooler pipeing is all 3in to an the intercooler is a 38in with a hks knock off bov any idea what kind off tune i should go with i am lookn to spend round 3 to 4 on tuning

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lexcrob
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I think an sr T25 unit bolted to a KA is not given enough credit at all ! < that being said there isnt many dyno pulls of em

From my browsing a t28 becomes "inefficient at 280hp that about the highest #'s out there. A t25 is only a touch smaller in terms of garrett sizing. If you jump around different suppliers they sell it as a 170-250hp range unit. Yes that is going to be inefficient as far as matching cfm to compressor map, but id say it would make a killer DD set up.

:on a side note at 10 psi of boost on a free flowing intake/exhaust system even HOW HOT is UR MANIFOLD GONNA BE.

that might be a reason so many ebay manifold bite the dust but ive seen more success running t3 on ebay??? PLAUSABLE? goodluck!

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motoman399
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what country do you live in? can we use english?

your not going to come close to your goal. smaller intercooler and smaller piping will help you also. a huge intercooler is meant for huge power. you have to match the parts, and not just throw random parts at an engine and call it a race engine.

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240man91
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i know some parts r ment for more power than i will b putting down but i have bigger plans latter on an it not going to b a race car it is my dd i want it to b very street able still. atlest for now an yes it is a garrett turbo off a sr. so with a good tune i could get what 230 an i dont want to run the egr how do i del it. an i am running a over sized coolent system to so it shouldnt get hot. at least not the motor an turbo.an it has a aftermarket bumper n front an no ac parts in it at all so alot more air in to help cool an it has clutch fan an electric fan to so cooling should not b a problem

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C-Kwik
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Word of advice, if you have plans to go a little bit bigger, I'd just continue saving the money and do it right the first time. Swapping from a T25 to say a T04 is not going to be a simple swap of bolt on parts. Typically a new manifold is required and with that, a new downpipe and modification or rerouting of intercooler plumbing may be required as well. It can be a huge headache, especially if you aren't the one fabricating it all yourself.

If you decide to go the T25 route anyways, just understand that it is going to have its limitations. Trying to run it at higher power levels than it is really intended for means its going to generate a lot more heat and backpressure to achieve the boost levels you might desire. So the net gain starts to get smaller and you put more stress on your motor.

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240man91
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yea thank u for telln me that, an when i do go bigger the motor will b redone from top to bottom with all forged insides an bored .20 to .30 over. ;) but for now i am lookn for 270hp but if what i got caint do it then ok i will just get it to do what i can with a good tune. so i should b able to get atleast 230 to 240 out it right motor runs great only has 93k on it an is running a 15.20 1/4 with what its got witch is not much, just a headder, aem cold air an full true 3in ex with hi flow cat an a resantor an any one konw how to get rid of the egr? really dont want to run it any more when i put this turbo on

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240man91
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on an i do all my own work cept the tuning.

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240man91
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any one konw how to take the egr off so i dont have to run it any more. thank u

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lexcrob
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..block it off/ throw in trash can / avoid marta testing centers

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240man91
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ha ha ok thank u so i just block it off an do i just plug the lines that go to it an thank u been tryn to find out that for like a week. lol

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biggie
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240man91 wrote:ha ha ok thank u so i just block it off an do i just plug the lines that go to it an thank u been tryn to find out that for like a week. lol
They make an EGR block off plate. It goes on the back of the intake. After that you'll need to block off some of the lines/holes. Should be plenty of topics on it if you search.

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240man91
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ok thanks an i know this is a hole other qustion but i gona ask worsk u guys can say is idk. ok me a buddy just droped a sr20det n has 91 hatch an his car was idlen like crap, woulkdnt go over 2.5k ok so i said its a maf so we pulled mine off an put it on his no change come to fing out one of his wires were grounding out. so it burnd up my maf an his we ordered two more well i put mine back on drove it home (1.5miles) an let it sit till i got the new one well i put new one on an it still runs like crap whats wrong with it do any of u know need to get it going so i can finsh getn it ready for turbo :(

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240man91
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an biggie what kind of turbo r u running on that 93 coupe se

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biggie
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I have a GT32e .63/.60

You should know that SR20DET and KA24DE are different mafs. The KA24E can be used on a SR20DET, but requires some rewiring.

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240man91
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yea i know that the sohc maf could but didnt know that the dohc couldnt b but y mine still not run right after i put a new one on. i unhooked the brattry over night an tuched the cables together to befor i hooked it back up still nothing idles real bad for min an thin dies

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biggie
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If you bought a new ka24de MAF and reset the ECU, then something else is wrong. Vaccum leak? Any wires unplugged? Etc...

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240man91
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thank u it turned out to be a bad maf but got it going now . an after i put my turbo on how bad is it goint to run with out a tune? i will need to drive it a hour to have it tuned.

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240man91
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me crazy i ran a compresson check on it an it was good i got 170 in two an 175 in another an 165 in the other one. timing is right on to from what i can tell with the light. it lights up on the bottom mark every time dead on. all vacums r hooked up to the only mods on it now r a aem cold air intake an, a headder with a 3in ex with a high flow cat. so what could b wrong with it if any one has any idea feel free to say cause i am lost!!

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240man91
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u guys think the fuel pump could b bad

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240man91
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dam glad i read that post for got to say what it is doing lol. ok its losen power at 5k n any gear it full of power an then u hit 5k an it runs flat an if u let up on gas it will gan some power back but soon as u floor it gose flat once more.

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motoman399
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sounds like it may be getting starved of fuel, but the fuel pump either works or it doesnt from my experiences. i would start with a new filter. and then check your tps (the tps is just a guess)

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240man91
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i was thinking the same thing like it has a bad filter or some thing or the pump is geting week cause if u dont floor it it gose thro thr rmp fine i going to chang the filter in the tank tomarrow an the one under the hood an i onther fuel pump to that i know works right it came off a running car i am going to put on

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240man91
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o an how u check the tps cause there are no codes coming up on the ecu?

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240man91
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(After reading the first solution I looked into finding a simpler solution. Best of all, everything can be done at the computer. My car is a 89 with a 96 ka24de, but all the wiring and computer is 92. On my computer, there is a yellow wire with green stripe, 8th one over from right on harness. This is the vehicle speed sensor signal. Cut that wire. That is it. If you have a California car I think it will trigger a code, but for the rest of us, it is an easy trick. Your speedometer will still work because the signal comes from the transmission, goes to the gauges, THEN feeds the computer. I had to find a solution because my car comes very close to the speed limiter at the end of the 1/4. If anyone can beat the revlimiter let me know. I'm working on it.) i got my car to run right it was both filters am pump was weak so replaced it all an is what i have in () true on here? i read it an would like to do it if it is true, but if the guy is full of s*** i do not want to jack with cuting wires

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lexcrob
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How the heck did this turn into basic trouble shooting.

I cant even help you if I wanted too because honestly I am tryin my best ,but cant understand what your typing.

If your car is bogging down at a certain rpm start unplugin crap until it lets you rev higher.
If that does not work your main sensor if your MAF obviously test it try it if thers a change your onto the problem.
-coolant temp intake temp both will cause incorrect fueling


If its a wiring issue honestly....best bet go to a junk yard grab a harness and plug it up DONE!
Dont go chasein 100 wires you will fail or completely waste your time i did it once took 3 weeks probly 20hours or so including research......it costs 300 to get just about any harness made (time is $)

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lexcrob
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Try wiring a rb20 harness into a 95 obd1 obd2 spec chasis.....RETARTED hard

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240man91
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i can read it just fine an the car runs great. like i said n last post it was a fuel problem as i thought an what is in ()s up there is how to remove the speed control on the car so it will not shut down at 115. an what is in ()s i did not type it i copy it an i was askn if the guy that wrote it is full of it, or if it is true. so mayb u should look at it better cause i can make out what it says just fine words are not wrong :wtf2:


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