ok i checked the timing on the car mine is hiting on the bottom mark if u r standing on the driver sided so is that +20

if you count the marks from left to right it should be between the 4th and 5th mark. that will be about 13-14*

i got it there it runs better now lol havent took it on hwy yet nit getn ready to when u rev it up it pops a when it comes down is that cause there no ex under it just open down pipe that is 3in

ok so i drove it it runs good now the clutch slips lol an its new but just a stock clutch i got before i turboed it. but when u s*** out of frist most the time it backfires only when driven normal tho. whys that i got it to 135 easy well as easy as u can with clutch sliping. but any way what u think would cause the back fire is it caused by the open ex?

open exhaust can cause a bit of popping and backfiring since it can cause some strange O2 readings. running one to long with no exhaust isnt good for the O2 sensor either from what ive been told and heard

yea i am taken it tomarrow to have the rest put on if i can get time i not driven it realy right now bsides like 5min down road if i need to go any where to far i drive my 97 eclipse gst spider lol nit near as fast as the 240sx lol i was thinkn they would b bout the same but not even close haha the 240 puts down more hp tham the eclipse dose with out turbo i think thats what read, now if that true that is very sad haha. but they both look very good the eclipse looks like it has more bite than it dose

ok i did a serch the eclipse has 210 stock an 240sx has 155 not a big diff but the gst has a t25 in it an with the t25 on the ka or sr the ka an sr take the gst hands down an the sr an ka motors are made stronger by far o stock boost on the gst is 12 to 13 to low power for such hi boost an these cars have 8.5.1 pistions in them

o yea my temo gauge says my car is getn hot to but car is not smokn an dose not act hot i turbo coolent lines ran to the stop where the upper radator hose runs to there is a small line that runs from the back of that housing on the motor u think it could b just throwing the temp gauge off cause the pemp gauge plugs into that housing what u think

hey what u think bout the temp thing

what radiator do u have. original stock, stock replacement, upgrade what?? could have an air bubble from where u had the cooling system open or you could have a leak somewhere

its a all steel radiator that is just a bit bigger than the stock one an no leaks

bleed the system for air

ok i will

you may need to fluch your system as well. depends on what ur coolant and inside of the system looks like. you could drain it and fill it with 2 bottles of CLR from the cleaning section at walmart and then fill up with water. run it for a few hours keeping an eye on the temp of coarse. then drain it (carefully, its hot) and romove both radiator hoses from the radiator and run the car with a garden hose on full blast in the hose that coolant is drawn into the motor. do this for 2 or 3 min to flush the remaining CLR out. shut off the engine and water and let all the water drain out. reattach the radiator hoses and fill with 1/2 & 1/2 coolant and bleed for air. Its a little pricey but I love the BMW coolant from the dealership. Its never supposed to be flushed or serviced and it actually doesnt have to be mixed. It works AMAZING!!!

yea i might have to do that i never had any cooling problems befor burt i never had tourbo eather lol

yea i might have to do that i never had any cooling problems befor but i never had turbo eather lol

hmmm, well can u upload a few pics of how you plumbed the coolant lines for the turbo then. im always fond of a metal T into a barbed AN fitting

i will try to in morring i think i put it in right place i take a pic in moring an try in have it posted by 1

ok, post up a few pics for me of both coolant lines to the turbo. Where it starts, where it goes into the turbo, where it comes out of the turbo and where it comes back in to the system. I want atleast 5 good pics with detail lol.

hey i caint post the pic lol i dont know how if u could explane how i got the pics u want just caint get them up lol

The images need to be uploaded to a website, I use Picassa/google. When they are hosted online you right click on the image, copy the properties/image location. Then on Nico, click on the IMG button when your posting and it will add img tags to your post. Paste the images location between the img tages.

It will look like this.

[img]image location goes here[/img

Yeah, just past the direct link in the middle of img tags.

It should look like this:

ok guys i got the temp thimg fixed it was a air in the system but i was driven it a the c.e light cam on an it started running like thishttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qf34jK9omHM what u guys think an if u hold it at 2k it misses like crazy an the idle is fallen from 700 to 0 up an down then it will stop for a min an then do it some more. man this sux i just got it running good to

Maybe you're running on 3 cylinders?

Pull the fuel injectors one by one to see if you run into one that doesn't make a difference.

I did they r all working one is ticking louder than the others thats it

an when u pull them one by one the motor idles down the same as the one bfor idk i am going to take them out tomarrow an check the screen in each one of them

thats how my ka idled with the maf unplugged. will it rev past 2500??

i see you are running the z32 maf, when you swapped the plugs how did you connect the wires??? you should have soldered them and then used shrink wrap to insulate them

The MAF will work if the wires are twisted together with no insulation at all as long as they aren't grounded out against anything. I'm not saying this is the way to go mind you, only that it will work just fine and won't cause the issues this guy is having. You'd have to have almost no wire contact at all to cause real problems.

Yea i am running the z32. Maf an yes it will go past 2500 an i did solder them