that is bad a** the maf makes the turbo set up on a car so much better

i wouldnt say its exactly better but in some cases it can be a little bit simpler at times. with a maf all intake air is accounted for so fuel is then metered for the exact air intake volume. if you switch to a larger turbo u dont have to retune (as long as your maf has enough resolution for the increased volume) because all the inlet air is accounted for so fuel will then be properly metered.

yea i am getn a z32 maf so for exsample the saturn i have it has no maf on it ok so if i was to turbo it how would u b able to turn up the boost cause with out a maf it would not know how much air is comen thro

they use an iat (intake air temp) sensor and a map (manifold absolute pressue) sensor. the iat says its this temp and then the map says its at this pressure. the ecu in a map based setup is going to be tuned off theoretical calculated volumetric efficiency. the engine can flow X amount of air so it will need X amount of fuel. in a map/iat setup if you change the turbo and it flows 60lbs a min of air instead of say a previous 50lbs a min air but the intake air temp hasnt changed and the boost pressure hasnt changed its going to be out of tune. 8psi at 50lbs a min of air at 90 degrees is less than 8psi at 60lbs of air at 90 degrees. its seeing the same temp and pressure but no change in air volume. so for more air you would need more fuel. if the iat and map arent seeing anything different then theyre not going to do anything different. with a maf, if X air volume changes then the ecu will correct with X fuel volume. Both accomplish the same thing, one just counts all air volume vs estimating from a predetermined amount and allows a little more room for error or adjustment ect ect

sweet man how u learn so much an so on a non maf setup it would b good to run a fmu an a safc with your tune?

I have mixed feelings on the safc. It a great little tool to use when translating in a different maf and making some small minor corrections on a stock turbo car or small adjustments to a rom tune when used in conjunction with a wideband. It shouldnt be used in place of proper tuning by any means tho. I would prefer to use a rom tune and then if its not perfectly on-spot an safc can be used to make any small corrections necessary. I just dont like the effect an safc has on timing control when pulling fuel. youre essentially lying to the ecu and telling it its getting less air by interupting the maf signals. when the ecu see's less air it will add timing. more air is translated as increased load and then the ecu will retard timing. thats especially important with boost to prevent detonation. an honest, die hard and proven set-up on a ka is a rom tune, z32 maf, turbo of your choosing and sufficient injectors. 550's will do about 350whp and should more than suffice your build. Jim Wolf Technology could flash your computer for that tune in their sleep.

thats what i was think to i want my ecu to run the car by its self an i put the turbo on my car to day tomarrow i am going to try to get the oil lines an the water going on it to an try to order one of those z32 mafs an i need to get the ecu tuned an it will b done

i called tim wolf an they told me 600 for the ecu to b tuned. dam! lol i didnt think it would b that much

yo man this might sound dum but i have to ask ok i got anther oil pan from a friend right an put a bung on it an haven it weled tomarrow but what i am askn is how to get the oil pan out with out pullen the motor. this is what i was thinkn (ok take the brackets of that got to trans,an then undo the motor mounts an then all oil pan bolts an put a jack under the front of trans an lift the motor up.but there is thast oil horn in there will i b able to get to the two bolts to take it off cause i know that the motor will not go up high enouf to go under it. so what u have to say bout that?

Stock mafs will max before 300whp...get a n60 maf, good for 350whp and they are cheap. I have three in my room collecting dust...lol

no i got a z32 maf comen i bigger plans some day

I would unbolt the motor mounts, unbolt the trans mount. jack the front of the motor up and support it on the crank pulley with a jackstand and a block of wood between the stand and the pulley (small peice of a 4"x4" post is best and safest). you should be able to "fanagle" it out. Jim Wolf isnt cheap but neither is anyone else. You could call Z1 Motorsports in Atlanta and see if and what they can do but idk if there'll be any price difference. I cant remember what they charged my friend Chris for the tune for his 300zx-tt

i got the oil pan done its all shiny red now lol an hooked up to the turbo an the tune i am still lookn round lol. but i ran in to a prob not bout the turbo but still bout the car ok the car has 16inch wheels on it an i was going to get new tires an the tires that r on it r 205/50/16 ok now 205 is two big right cause the stock 15s r post to have 205s on the so if u go up a size in rin shouldnt the side wall size go down i was thinkn it should b a 195 or somthing on the am i right an if u know the right size let me know an thanks man for all the help couldnt of got it all done with out u an the other guy on here big thanks!!!!!!!

Are you trying to find a tire size that will suit your wheel to keep youre speedo accurate? Stock s13 could accomodate both 195-60-15's or 205-60-15's. A 205-50-16 shouldnt upset the speedo too bad until higher speeds (i.e. 50 = 55, 60 = 67, 70 = 80) but I HIGHLY doubt the difference would be that severe. you could honestly go wider also if you'd like too such as a 215-45-16 or 225-40-16 (if you can find those sizes but I dont work at a tire store anymore so I dont kno) and not upset the speedo to much at all. Regardless, in town driving speeds will be about the same with your current tire size, may be off as much as 2mph at 40.

My rule of thumb is this. Drop 10% on the 1st inch increase and 5% per inch increase from there
Going from 205-60-15:
205-50-16
205-45-17
205-40-18
ect. ect.

Increasing width should be a decrease in side wall of 5% per 20% increased in tread width dropping 10% sidewall for the 1st 20% increase in tread width but if your wheel size has been increased, a 5% decrease in sidewall for every 10% increase in tread width is roughly ideal
Going from 205-60-15
225-50-15

Going from 205-50-16
215-45-16

Going from 205-45-17
215-40-17

These are not exact sizes to necessarily use as any tire and rim combo is possible but it should give you and idea of possible sizes and the relationship of their circumferences to help maintain some accuracy in with the speedometer without having to recalibrate it. Remember that its still not going to be exactly on point but for city driving (35-45mph) it should keep you within 2 to 5mph of the posted limit.

I myself am not too worried about my speedo since I have a gps and my speedo accuracy would be out the window anyways between having a CA swap which a shorter 5th gear in the trans, I swapped the stock 4.09 diff to a 3.90 viscous and my tires/wheels are XXR 962's 18x9 1/2", 245-40-18 on the front and 275-40-18 on the rear.
(Not the wheels in my pic, its an old pic)

o ok i c now so i am good with the 205s on there an my car is droped 2inches two so say i want to run a 205/45/16 i would b good right or would i need two go 210/45/16

There is no 210. Tread width sizes always increase or decrease in increments of 10 like 205, 215, 225 ect.

an would a 195/50/16 work on it cause i can get a set of them for 270 dollars that r handhook rain runners real good deal but will they work the 205s almost rib with it being lowered but i dont want to make car set any lower lol its hard to get thro the dips npw haha or i can get a set of 205/50/16s for 330 that r the same style what u think is best for the car.

205's

ok 205s it is then thanks man

ok i ran in to a problem my power steering pump i right in front of the turbo an i caint seem to find a way to run a pipe to get the maf an air cleaner hooked up. any ideas!!

find a stock sr20 or ca18 suction tube, they work great. just look on ebay and around here. you should be able to find one in about 10 minutes

hey guys i did a bit of lookn an cait find what kind of spak plugs to run in my car with the turbo any one know or r the stock ones fine

For low boost stock are fine.

10 or more people usually upgrade. Normally NGK BRK6E or BRK7E (if I remembered all the letters corrrectly).

run the stock plugs gapped to .032" any sr/ca turbo elbow will work as long as its not a divorced elbow. Just a plain megan 3" stainless steel turbo elbow is what u want

an there is a vacum on the vale cover an one that comes out of the intake an plugs into the cold air u know, can it be deleated i know the one that comes off the vale cover u can just put a fliter on it but what bout the other one

In stock form there are a lot of lines from the intake to the engine. The only one that needs to be kept is the IACV.

dont me to sound dumb but witch on is that haha.

Googled a pic:

But all of the other hoses go to emissions stuff, either need to cap them or remove all the emissions stuff.

well dam i think that is the hose that ties into the one oiff the vale cover an if it is then i need to take my pipe an have a fiting put on it to plug it in dam