Total mystery : sheared off cambelt but valves ok!?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You could always spray some carb cleaner through it (or something like WD-40 that cleans and lubricates), then re-oil it and re-try.

I've never had a problem with them being dry-stored though. Good call on the drill though - makes me wonder if you could get anything to spin it faster (maybe an impact gun?)

[float_6969]

That makes me nervous. I have a turbo that has been sitting in the garage for over 5 years on a shelf and I just picked it up the other day and it spins just as freely as it did when I put it on that shelf.

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Yeah it should spin even left for over few months but its real stiff. Ive put some wd overnite but still ain't helped to free it, it don't have any play in out or sideways.
I tried to open it from the exhaust housing side but it wouldn't come apart from the intake side its kind ov stuck solid. Managed to get the elbow off & can't see any obstructions from that side shaft looks good too. Il put some more wd again & take it to my local garage to see if I could "borrow" their impact wrench & try to spoil it faster hopefully that'll do the trick, but first I gotta get the top end together asap. Will ad some more pics soon on progress.

[float_6969]

Dude, I'm telling you that thing is toast. You need a new turbo, or at least have it rebuilt. Breaking it loose is just going to ruin it. My guess is that the oil seal is fouled up. DON'T PUT AN IMPACT ON IT!!!!!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Can't hurt anything if its already broken.

[Grifter]

We'll, wd40 didn't really help. hasn't freed it much only a little. (Better than before though) But I think it'll need a rebuild il pass it to the specialists whilst I get the top end on.
As my pistons are set (front & back piston) tdc, when I put the camshafts on do I just align the marks on each camshaft on the sides & be ok? Cause the last thing I want to do is have the valves open & torque down the wrong ones onto pistons. Or once cams on if I start turning them without the belt connected wouldn't wanna go into pistons.

[float_6969]

There are 3 marks to align. There is a dot on the crank sprocket that aligns with a notch on oil pump, then the dots on the cam gears align with the hash marks on the backing plate for the cams.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You could also put the engine in a state where none of the pistons are at TDC while you torque the head and cams down, then move everything to where it would need to be.

[float_6969]

The cams should be installed AFTER the head is installed. This is for 2 reasons. The first is that it makes it MUCH easier to install the head bolts with the cams out. You can do it with the cams installed, but you have to rotate the cams to get the lobes out of the way. The second, ofcourse, is to ensure that the valve and the pistons don't contact.

[Grifter]

Your right float I've put the head on without the cams on & now installing the camsthafts.it was easier Appreciate the timing marks info il here that in mind. Could I rotate the engine anti clockwise? Or only clockwise to move the pistons down as papasmurf said.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Either way, as long as you don't bust the crank pulley bolt loose.

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I couldn't believe it! When I was in the process of putting on the cams I noticed the intake cam side front groove had like metal rubbed on so hard that it made a slight "dig" in that groove. (I've marked the exhaust cam side just to show the location of the groove but it's defo on the intake side). Now that groove has an additional groove created by I think the intake camshaft being too tight or something. Pls advise me if I'm wrong.
The exhaust side is clean and without any marks, but the intake side had got about 1/2 mm extra layer. There's a small hole on these grooves & the intake side hole is now blocked cause this extra layer on top, it's also very abrasive. Il take a pic of that tomorrow and load it.

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When installing the head I found two water pipes running from the back of the engine which I located & fitted correctly but there's this one pipe which I've marked on this pic at the back of the engine under the FPR & it's metal pipe that's connected to it runs along the bottom of the intake manifold. I tried to find a missing link but couldn't locate what's connected to it?
I thought it may be the turbo pipe but that's a little smaller.

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I've taken the rad off to get a better view of the crank timing mark & think I've located it. It was marked with a red marker & is quite faint but it looks like it needs to be turned back to align the marks.

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I'm now in a muddle cause of the metal sheared into the front groove, maybe that caused friction with the c shaft & it sheared
Could I leave it as it is or need replacing the head cause its gone abrasive not like the exhaust side which is nice & smooth. I did buy another head but didn't use it as this looked good

[float_6969]

I can't tell from the pics what the line is for. I'd have to see pics of the damage to the head to tell you if it's an issue or not. The cam timing is DEFINITELY off a tooth.

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Ok il get a pic of the intake cam side & put it on asap,

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[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah that's no bueno.

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This is a pic of the intake cam side of the head & the cam bracket that fits ontop of the camshaft. The bracket had also been "rubbed" by the cam & it made some grooves, but I managed to file most of it down from the bracket & it may be ok to rub smooth the groove on the head.
I've also got another head but without any camshaft brackets.
I be ok to use these brackets on the other head.

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Would that be ok then. what about the oil hole it can't be seen anymore.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If this were the zombie apocalypse, I'd say go for it. Realistically, you should procure a new head, complete with bearing caps. If you're hell bent on doing it as cheap as possible, then re-drill that oil port, smooth it out, and slap everything together and hope it lasts a few thousand miles.

[float_6969]

If your spare head doesn't have the cam caps, that head is useless. The cam caps and the head are line bored after they are assembled. Once they're bored, they're mated together for life. You can't swap them because another set of cam caps won't mate to the head properly.

You can try cleaning that bearing cap up, and drill the hole out. It will last for a while. I can't say how long it will last for, but not forever. Eventually you're going to need a new head and cam. You can try and find a machine shop that can line bore the head and put bearings in it, but I seriously doubt you're going to find a shop that can, or will do it.