Sold my G and got a 2011 M56X Took it to Lebanon Valley today air wasn't spectacular like 1500+ DA. She did ok but Infiniti completely neutered this car. Why give it a V8 with mountains of torque and not allow you to use it. Till like 20mph car is a dog. It doesn't allow WOT till then. My G 60' way harder. It runs the back half like an animal going to have to get a tune to fix the problem and it should pick up a decent amount. A 3200rpm stall and tune would really make this car a beast.

My G ran [email protected] @like -1000DA with a 1.98 60' in this weather it would probably have done high 13.60's or 13.70's. Here's what the M did

2.146
5.811
8.777
83.66
11.298
13.419
106.69

So in better weather could get close to 13.10's. I noticed on another run after this the tip of my foot was hitting the plastic and not getting WOT not sure if this happened on the fastest run too but I think it probably did because I had to move my seat back to avoid it without my leg being in a awkward position.

This was also full weight didn't take anything out gas was low though 60 miles to empty so could of been a tiny bit lower. I would like to see if I could get 12's out of it stock but I def have to get the tune to cure the issue off the line. Not sure I can keep it stock till October when the weather will be best. I read on here about the ECU reset and transmission update might help a bit have to try.

Welcome to the forum.

Lebanon Valley huh? You live in Albany or MA? I'm from Albany and knows lots of people who head out there although I've never been. Where did you get your M from? The 56 is rare...

EDIT: NVM, just saw your other post in the timing chain thread lol. I'm no longer the only M that is on the forums from here hahah...this car is RARE here.

Are we able to load the torque converter while holding the brake on these cars? I haven't tried it yet. Maybe a tune would allow one to be able to preload the TV while on the brake if the stock tune prevents it.

Anything over 1000rpm it didn't like. I'm in Rotterdam so not far from Albany. I got it in Peabody Mass took me 6 months to find one that met my criteria while being in reasonable driving distance.

I go to the Valley all the time was going to run the G in the Street ET class but ended up selling it.

Well there's your problem. A high stall TC won't help much if you can't preload it for a good launch.

I don't think I really have that issue, maybe the sport model and RWD make a difference. Haven't made it to drag strip yet.

@Dred...curious. Do you run in sport mode? do you turn off the VDC? What about manually shifting the car?

All runs in sport mode traction off. The one that I launched at 1500 acted weird but it may be what some were describing before having timing chains done. I'll wait till that's done and some better air for more testing.

A higher stall would still help even if you had to launch off idle but I think it's probably something they do in the tune to prevent damage if the fluid gets too hot.

The g would act weird too if you brake torqued it for too long

You can't launch or brake launch in this car no matter what model your in x, s or base.

That's what I figured. Maybe a tune can overcome that.

infinitedrift wrote:You can't launch or brake launch in this car no matter what model your in x, s or base.

I recall reading this awhile ago somewhere that Nissan/Infiniti had built this feature into their cars

You can brake torque and even do a brake stand if you make an interrupt switch for the brake signal wire attached to the pedal.

Someone on the facebook M club posted instructions on how to do it, I can't look up the post at the moment but will try to find it later today.

adeedpb wrote:You can brake torque and even do a brake stand if you make an interrupt switch for the brake signal wire attached to the pedal.

Someone on the facebook M club posted instructions on how to do it, I can't look up the post at the moment but will try to find it later today.

True, shouldn't be too hard to install a switch, except it'd be alot safer to do this in a tune as if one forgets to flip the switch back to normal, he or she will have no brake lights when braking.

I don't think you could adjust that in an Uprev tune, I've never seen the option, maybe possible with a Consult III?

This sounds like it would be as easy as installing a physical switch into the wiring of the brake switch, between it and the cars ECM. I would install a momentary switch so that it is only open when you are holding it down.

From what the facebook post says you have to put the e-brake on, put the car in neutral, and then unplug or interrupt the brake signal; VDC light will turn on. Brake lights will not work, I believe you have to shut the car off, reconnect the signal, and turn the car back on to get it back to normal.

Who is going to be the first one to try?

Maybe someone who has an UpRev tune should ask and see if they have the option and if not, if they can program that option.

Good luck with that I emailed them months ago with some questions and they haven't gotten back to me.

Maybe EcuTek has that option.

adeedpb wrote:Good luck with that I emailed them months ago with some questions and they haven't gotten back to me.

Might be better off asking Joe.

13.1 sounds about right for stock. That's actually a pretty good run. Even on my 12.88 @ 111mph run the car ran sluggish out of the hole. That's just the way it is. I have an uprev tune and it didn't help that much and you still can't torque brake it. Defeating the stability control didn't help much, if any.

DredM56 wrote:Mine felt very sluggish down low when I first got it like I described in my 1/4 mile thread. I wasn't happy with it at all. After the work it is very strong now like a different car.

They did the recall the transmission update and replaced the timing cover and a solenoid for the variable valve timing.

Haven't gotten to run it yet again It keeps raining the days I'm supposed to go the track.

I got a chance to take mine to the track after driving mine a couple hundred miles after the recall. It is definately more responsive and ran an all time new best. Air was a little cooler though too. 8.23 @ 94.2 mph on a 2.24s 60'.

What was the da on that run. That 60' is rough did you spin or it just isn't hitting the tires hard enough. My G would vary in 60' with the weather because it didn't spin at all only a small chirp in the cold so it came down to how much power it was making.

That trap on the other hand is nice but I'm thinking a typo? 84 sounds more in line with the car and your time

DredM56 wrote:What was the da on that run. That 60' is rough did you spin or it just isn't hitting the tires hard enough. My G would vary in 60' with the weather because it didn't spin at all only a small chirp in the cold so it came down to how much power it was making.

It was spinning a little. Only way I can get a cleanish launch is brake stall it enough to get the ECU to pull power out of it for about 1/2 second off the line. I used to launch my 2wd Titan the same way. It would normally pull a 2.00 and pulled a 1.98 and 1.99 a few times too. Trap is correct, 94 mph. My 5,300 lbs Titan trapped 78-80 in the 1/8th with a VK56DE and no headers. The truck would run a 13.9x @ 98-99 mph in the 1/4. We only gain about 20-25 mph from the 1/8th to the 1/4. Our cars trap 86-88 in the 1/8, STOCK! They trap 107-109 stock in the 1/4. If I had run a 2.00s 60' time the car would have run about 7.80. 1 tenth in the 60' for me has repeatedly been 2 tenths in the 1/8th in everything I have run.

I do not even try to hotlap the M56. The 2nd pass is GUTLESS. I think an oil cooler may fix this though.

Looking at various time slips our 1/8th to 1/4 ET is about 1.52x the 1/8th mile time fairly consistently. The trucks I have run are about 1.55-1.57x. 8.23 is about 12.55 in the 1/4. I am making plenty of HP just no launch at the moment.

Guys I'm moving your track posts from the timing chain recall thread as it's getting a little more into general discussion of the cars performance less to do with the recall itself. Let's keep that thread on topic because it is one of the top Google results for timing chain issues on this car.

No problem! Was diving a bit off the timing chain portion but I was actually shocked and still am that the chains made that much difference. I did have two guides that were metal to metal with the chain though and it may have been causing some timing retard from the knock sensor picking up the noise.

I am actually kind of glad you put my post in this thread. It is actually a perfect example of what I was saying anyway!

M56x that is heavier and has higher drivetrain losses trapped 84.4 mph in similar weather conditions stock.

infinitedrift wrote:You can't launch or brake launch in this car no matter what model your in x, s or base.

You CAN brake launch the car but it will cut considerable power for 1/2 to 1 seconds after you come off the brake. On the 2wd it can actually help you cut a better 60' time. My frst track runs I just madhed the throttle and was getting 2.5s 60' times with the corresponding wheelspin.

The trick I learned in the Titan was roll on the throttle gradually, stall it at part-throttle until the RPMs stopped climbing, then come off the brake on the next to last red while flooring it at the same time. It would pull a 0.0x light and a 2.0s 60' if done correctly in my truck.

Mine is still a little sluggish and for some reason my rep doesn't seem to ever know if they did any of the transmission updates, etc. Going to have to try one more time as I'm about 5kmi left of warranty and will take it in when I get close to do a last thorough 'once over' on the car.

Ilya wrote:Mine is still a little sluggish and for some reason my rep doesn't seem to ever know if they did any of the transmission updates, etc. Going to have to try one more time as I'm about 5kmi left of warranty and will take it in when I get close to do a last thorough 'once over' on the car.

The only time I notice mine getting sluggish is in temps over 90° outside. Once you drive it a few miles in hot temps it becomes a DOG. I think it is Oil temp and IAT temp related. The transmission also starts acting very sluggish. It starts upshifting and locking the torque converter very early and lugs the engine at 1,200-1,500 rpm. You nearly have to floor it to get it to unlock the converter or downshift. My hope is a couple of added resistors to the IAT circuits and an engine oil cooler will fix this. I do not even attempt to hotlap my car at the track. I have been parking near the staging area and pop the hood and let it cool down 30-45 minutes between passes. I have been making passes with the engine in the 140-160°F range. I may also add a transmission cooler when the bumper comes off. After having had 3 VK56 powered vehicles I can tell you one thing for sure, they HATE heat, the ECU detunes the heck out of them when they are hot.