I haven't took mine to the track. However, since the timing chains were replaced a few weeks back I noticed that it runs like crap once it gets hot. The throttle response lags bad I can put it to the floor and it does nothing. Other times from a dead stop say from a traffic light I can punch it to the floor and it does not move until a few seconds later. I decided last week to not let it warm up and just leave for work and see how it responds. It pulls SO hard and responds like it use to but with the added power it got from the new chains being installed. It will burn the tires all the time when it is cold and not warmed up yet. It kind of reminds me of the old 350 TPI Iroc-z I had of my dads when I was younger. It had an issue with the MAF sensor or some other sensor and it would start cutting back when it got up to a hot temperature. However, when it was cold or not at a above average temp it would run perfect with full power. It feels (M56) as if it looses power once it gets up to a certain temp or has been running for more than 20 mins or so. I can even hear the difference when I stomp it on a colder temp vs it running for a while and then stomping it. I can tell when it is really working right cause it responds soon as I touch the gas and the g force is so strong that I can feel it in my stomach from pulling so hard. I knew something was wrong after I drove that Q50 loaner and saw how it responded right away to me hitting the gas.

This isn't temp related it was 52 out and the car sat for an hour before running like s hit. It ran faster every pass.

Temp as far as intake air coolant and oil definitely do have a effect on the car but this is something else.

DredM56 wrote:This isn't temp related it was 52 out and the car sat for an hour before running like s hit. It ran faster every pass.

Temp as far as intake air coolant and oil definitely do have a effect on the car but this is something else.

I wasn't implying that your issue was temp related. I was speaking on what I have been noticing with mine since I got it back after the recall work.

After reading the comments about thermostats did a bit of snooping around on the concept.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/201 ... advantage/

That's one of those debates that is as old as time with plenty of people on both sides of the argument. From what I've seen some cars react favorably to it others don't it depends the way the ecu is programmed.

The idea is that by allowing the coolant to start circulating sooner you can stave off the high heat conditions rather than letting it get hotter then trying to bring it back down. If you research you can see going too far can have the reverse effect with it not allowing the coolant to spend enough time in the radiator and actually causing the car to overheat with the lower Tstat and the fix would be a higher tstat.

Cars used to run lower Tstats from the factory pretty much everywhere but North America still does. The higher stats and fan settings are an emissions thing. The higher stat allows the car to warm up quicker when cold starting it and light off the cat sooner.

IMO 170 should be fine the 140 one would be way to low for a street car. You want it to warm up to decrease wear on the engine which mostly happens at lower temps. Optimum temps for combustion are like 195+- but most cars now don't turn the fans on till 210+ and they start pulling timing at or below those temps.

For drag racing think about the fact the car starts and you drive slowly with no airflow over the radiator to the staging lanes turn it off and it heat soaks. Then your lane starts moving and your idling and creeping forward the whole time the car is getting hotter. With factory settings and stat by time you're up to the strip you could very easily be heated to the point where its pulling timing. With the fans running at a lower temp and the lower stat the hope is that it keeps it cooler longer so you make to the line at optimum temp rather the 200+

Car is fixed. Brake switch was bad so wasn't always telling the ecu that the brakes were released.

DredM56 wrote:Car is fixed. Brake switch was bad so wasn't always telling the ecu that the brakes were released.

Pretty common in the Nissan world too. Usually accompanied by Slip and ABS lights.

DredM56 wrote:That's one of those debates that is as old as time with plenty of people on both sides of the argument. From what I've seen some cars react favorably to it others don't it depends the way the ecu is programmed.

The idea is that by allowing the coolant to start circulating sooner you can stave off the high heat conditions rather than letting it get hotter then trying to bring it back down. If you research you can see going too far can have the reverse effect with it not allowing the coolant to spend enough time in the radiator and actually causing the car to overheat with the lower Tstat and the fix would be a higher tstat.

Cars used to run lower Tstats from the factory pretty much everywhere but North America still does. The higher stats and fan settings are an emissions thing. The higher stat allows the car to warm up quicker when cold starting it and light off the cat sooner.

IMO 170 should be fine the 140 one would be way to low for a street car. You want it to warm up to decrease wear on the engine which mostly happens at lower temps. Optimum temps for combustion are like 195+- but most cars now don't turn the fans on till 210+ and they start pulling timing at or below those temps.

For drag racing think about the fact the car starts and you drive slowly with no airflow over the radiator to the staging lanes turn it off and it heat soaks. Then your lane starts moving and your idling and creeping forward the whole time the car is getting hotter. With factory settings and stat by time you're up to the strip you could very easily be heated to the point where its pulling timing. With the fans running at a lower temp and the lower stat the hope is that it keeps it cooler longer so you make to the line at optimum temp rather the 200+

I put the Nismo 144°F in mine this weekend. Like my Titan the M56 LOVES the cooler running temp. The lower temps causing bore wear is a carbureted engine thing. Many boats that are setup to be run hard on the throttle for extended periods of time have 140°F thermostats. When it is hot outside my A/C is blasting and the fans are on nearly the second the engine starts. The temps level out about 168°F with the Nismo stat. The 170°F stat gets up to about 185-190°F at peak. The stock gets up over 210°F on a hot day. Remember our thermostat temp rating is where the thermostat starts to open. It is not fully open until it is atleast 10-15°F higher.

Yeah that's what I was getting. In auto it was coming on right away in manual it wasn't coming on till like 3rd. May have been a coincidence I only did one run in auto that night.

Next weekend is predicted to be -900 da at my track I'm expecting to have the stock record without even taking into account if the switch caused power to be pulled for sure on the fastest pass.

The 170 sounds perfect to me. As far as wear from low Temps being a carb thing I can't sign on to that. The lower coolant temp causes the ecu to send extra fuel so bore washing is still an issue. Also oil viscosity is different at different Temps. Theye also decide the tolerances of the engine with operating temperature in mind obviously the sizes change the colder the engine.

DredM56 wrote:The 170 sounds perfect to me. As far as wear from low Temps being a carb thing I can't sign on to that. The lower coolant temp causes the ecu to send extra fuel so bore washing is still an issue. Also oil viscosity is different at different Temps. Theye also decide the tolerances of the engine with operating temperature in mind obviously the sizes change the colder the engine.

Warmup enrichment is typically a done deal by 110-130°F and many engines go into closed loop very quickly. The only place that might see a little more fuel is power enrichment and the engine is already operating very rich anyway.

As far as the lubrication goes....I run 0w40 Mobil One in all my VK56 engines. Same oil that Nissan choose for the GT-R. Bearing clearance specs are right in the same area.

question: where would one find a 170 degree thermostat to fit the M56 and which type of thermostat would i get (part number)? One more thing i live in Houston Texas so its not ever really cold. (@DFW2011M56S do you recommend I switch to the oil you talk about as well? my 2011 m565s has almost 93k miles on it)