tires for 17x9?

[poshatch]

i think the 50mm are perfect since 2" spacers are roughly 51mm so your basically working with a "stock body" since the spacers stick out as much as the fenders will...

what are your lowness/camber goals? those always come into play when determining the size tyre that you can run.

if your higher you can run more tire, and lower you need more camber to fit a slightly bigger tyre but there are still limits you know

as far as flush goes, fiberglass fenders? id be careful, there isnt really such thing as a rub its more of just a crack =], and was the inner well cleared before they were put on? or do you have stock body under that?

[sR13.5]

that's a good way of looking at it, i can use that to approx. I don't want to go at the camber for "look" i seen alot of sick looking camber adj esp on the rears eatting at tires. its something about the angel that drives me crazy with excitement but i'm not going for extremes. i'm honestly trying to keep it on an as-needed basis. the drop is modest, more then my spring strut combo now but nothing that will kill my front end. there's no other way to go then oem when doing conversions but it does add on quickly when dealing with shipping. I don't know much about fiberglass and am sure pulling is never an option this is why i'm ready to add flares if i come into a problem with my "final" selection of rims after paint. i have to clear the inner well carefully, i didn't mention it before but it's a must-do, it defeats its purpose if i didn't, thanks again

[poshatch]

lol thats why i asked cause if the over fenders are over stock body your still limited by stock body, and i feel you with the rear end camber, i think its best used between -1 and -2* anyway which isnt that much i got 2.5 on there currently in the back which isnt bad but you can sorta notice it, the front im running 5.5 which IS noticable haha

so yeah, since you want your camber on the mild side you either have to restrict your tyre size (not a whole lot so it shouldnt be a huge deal) or restrict your ride height

i still say you should go for the kei office s15 and 245 front 265 rear 40 sidewall, with your 50mm over fenders and 2" spacers and your +35 offset it still might look good

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4j_VJ2hpMS0

this is the one im talking about

[ghx407]

biggie and gxh407 can you post pics?

I'm running 25mm (1 inch) spacers.

[Seanzyyy]

205 is too much of a stretch.
215/40 is a good size tire for those rims.
thats what i was running when i had my old 962s

[OutToWinPAHC]

2 inch spacers..... oh the fail get some wheels that fit

[sR13.5]

poshatch love the video, i just picked up the june and july option2 magazine today, i have to go a outside of my commute home to get it, i wish that was translated as nice. Are his rims as wide?

ghx407 clean hatch, nice look. i can't make out the rims though, I see jet black and mad lip, thanks

Seanzyyy do you have pics of that set up? I'd love to see it

OutToWinPAHC The spacers are actually my rear five lug conversion. until I complete my z32 brakes I am keeping the s13 oem rotors. The se s14 rotors arent much but I see that as a step in the wrong direction. Even so I have spacers on my car now 1.25 on the front and 1.5 on the rears.

[poshatch]

im made of option/hotversion/BMI videos haha i think they are 8 F and 9 R with a +25 offset i think not too sureee in either case those jdm cars run less camber than most are usually higher than most of the slammed cars, still look good IMO, run wider tires and dont have dummy low offsets but are still GTR faced wheels so they still look pretty good and thats basically what your looking for i thinkkkk

if however you have the money id get something that requires less spacer and more negative offset/wider wheels, or later on swap too it cause 2" is massivesause

such as them stang wheels =D

[ghx407]

ghx407 clean hatch, nice look. i can't make out the rims though, I see jet black and mad lip, thanks

XXR 962, 17x9, +35 on all corners

[sR13.5]

poshatch good feedback, are you talking about the five spoke cobra center cap stang wheels? I just saw those on an older dark blue 5.0 from 1990. I urged him to run with me but he just fish tailed for 5 seconds and mad alot of noise. It was like he was claiming his territory. i just spit out the window while giving him the thumbs up, he didn't know if i was a friend or a threat

ghx407 that's right you stated that above. do you always have your car that low and how does it look when its not if that's the case? what's ghx407 stand for? thanks again.

[s13drifter88]

I used to work for Firestone and Big 10 tires, for a 9" rim id recommend 245-45-17. Good width for contact patch, low enuf profile to fit in most places but enuf sidewall to protect the rim from dips, potholes ect. I prefer Michelin Primacy Sports or Potenza RE760's. "I miss my RE750 and RE-01's "

[sR13.5]

s13drifter88 thanks it's always good to hear from a "professional." now what do you think about a mild stretch maybe 235-45 or is that to far from it's safe zone? thanks for the feedback

[biggie]

On the front a main concern will be rubbing with anything over 225, especially with the high offset. At full lock I rub a little with the 235/45/17 with +12 offset.

[s13drifter88]

stretch looks good and all but it reduces tread life. ur rim is hanging over ur tire so ur forcing the weight of the vehicle down on a narrower patch. walk on the ball of your foot for a while and see how quick the toe of ur shoe wears out. on my wheels, i like a tire almost even with the bead edge on the rim. to wide and the tire "shoulders out" so it eats up the outside edges and leave the middle untouched. i know stretched looks sick and all but if i pay a grand for a set of primacy sports i want to get all the milage i can out of them. i frequently check my alignment and rotate my tires religeously.

[s13drifter88]

also stray away from cheap tires. stay name brand for quality assurance. companies like nitto and falken are good but i like michelin and bridgestone for reputation, quality and performance... both of which have history competeing in INDY and other major motorsports so im sure theve done their homework and have their product on point. again, nitto and falken are great and im not knocking them... but do they compete in indy on 200+mph open wheel cars

[sR13.5]

s13drifter88 sounds like good advice thanks. I am not tracking on these rims, just dd now but it is something to think about with another set.

biggie are your fenders pulled on the front? my fenders are wider with the conversion and if yours are pulled already i can approx. better thanks

[biggie]

biggie are your fenders pulled on the front? my fenders are wider with the conversion and if yours are pulled already i can approx. better thanks

Fenders are pulled a little. But my rubbing is against the fender well near the door/firewall, not on the fender. Your suspension and alignment settings wil have a lot to do with that though.

[s13drifter88]

no, theyre stock. my 18's are only 7 1/2" so i have 225/40/18s. No scrubby

[poshatch]

uhhhhh idono what to say to that, that sounds all bad, if there is enough room for all that i would just do doughnuts around him and tell him to STFU and then get his numba like in tokyo drift! minus the fine girls and the number stuff hahah

i was talkinga bout these:



18x10



17x10



17x10.5

[s13drifter88]

lol thats why i asked cause if the over fenders are over stock body your still limited by stock body, and i feel you with the rear end camber, i think its best used between -1 and -2* anyway which isnt that much i got 2.5 on there currently in the back which isnt bad but you can sorta notice it, the front im running 5.5 which IS noticable haha

so yeah, since you want your camber on the mild side you either have to restrict your tyre size (not a whole lot so it shouldnt be a huge deal) or restrict your ride height

i still say you should go for the kei office s15 and 245 front 265 rear 40 sidewall, with your 50mm over fenders and 2" spacers and your +35 offset it still might look good

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4j_VJ2hpMS0

this is the one im talking about

-1 and -2*? i would be ashamed if i was rolling -2* camber... and -5.5 in the front, what the faqk!?!?!?!?!?!? what'd u do, cut ur springs down to 1 coil!?!?!?!? does suspension geometry mean anything to u? handling? drivability? performance? -1* gives sporty handling but after that it becomes "darty" eats tires to hell and back. I used to be a Master alignment and suspension tech for Firestone and still hold me ASE's.

[biggie]

^You are use to people running 'normal' alignments for dialy use. A lot of people on here have all kinds of weird setups. And a lot on coilovers are very low.

Lots of camber in front is usually used for 2 reasons: tucking tires and/or drifting.

-1 to -2 is absolutely nothing on these cars. I'm mostly on the street and have -2.25 front and -1.5 rear on my coupe. With -1.5 front and -1 rear on my Vert.

[poshatch]

-1 and -2*? i would be ashamed if i was rolling -2* camber... and -5.5 in the front, what the faqk!?!?!?!?!?!? what'd u do, cut ur springs down to 1 coil!?!?!?!? does suspension geometry mean anything to u? handling? drivability? performance? -1* gives sporty handling but after that it becomes "darty" eats tires to hell and back. I used to be a Master alignment and suspension tech for Firestone and still hold me ASE's.

this is a joke right? i know you got to be joking with me when you said this...

im on coilovers, tein HE coilovers, but that has nothing to do with my alignment specs because every arm on my car can be adjusted! its not just like that cause i cant change it i can put it to pretty much anything that isnt restricted physically by the wheel or by the arm, my set up works for me

i run so much front camber because i have an extended LCA and i have the front coilover at the camber plates maxed out so that i can have maximum SAI for switchback drifting, im running no front sway bar which gives me more roll so i compensate for that by adding more camber, probably a bit too much yea but idc cause it also looks baller and it feels good for me

no anything after -1* camber does not make it "darty" , the word darty seems to me at least refer to bumpsteer if anything and that has to do with traction rods and camber curve, not camber adjustments themself, although in my experience and from having done hours of research into the matter as well as talked to the drivers in my area -1.5 is about where the sweet spot is of camber and anything after that seems to lose traction

and as far as the camber wear, my tyres dont last much longer than a month cause i always destroy them drifting by then so i couldnt tell you, the ones i run up from have so much life in them for being on for 8+ months at that camber and being softer compound yokohama parada spec II

my car was aligned at firestone too BTW and just cause you work at an alignment shop dosnt mean you know anything about performance alignments IMO cause they didnt know much, i had to give them basically a step by step to adjust my alignment

sorry for the THREAD JACK!!

but yeah i would also have to agree with others when more camber is needed for the "flushness" look, i was speaking from a purely performance standpoint since i was referring to the kei office s15 which you can clearly see isnt running a lot of camber, but maybe a little more than 1 - 1.5 and a completely different look than flush cause you can tell it isnt flush ahhahaha

[240lookis]

a "professional" recommending a 245/45/17... seriously? that is significantly larger than stock diameter, so it will f*** your speedometer, and rub everywhere in your wheel well if you are significantly lowered.

ridiculing another user for running -5* camber up front... have you heard of DRIFTING??

jesus f*** christ.

this is ridiculous.

[OutToWinPAHC]

OutToWinPAHC The spacers are actually my rear five lug conversion. until I complete my z32 brakes I am keeping the s13 oem rotors. The se s14 rotors arent much but I see that as a step in the wrong direction. Even so I have spacers on my car now 1.25 on the front and 1.5 on the rears.

Please stop, your not doing it right 5 lug conversion spacer, wide billet spacers that are already questionable. Wheels to fit your car, not making wheel fit the car. Save up, do a real 5 lug swap, get some legit wheels that you like and sell the wheels and spacers.

[poshatch]

p.s. i think wtih that big a spacer there is alot of stress on the aluminum parts that could easily just break under harsh conditions, i think there is somthing on this forum about it also

i also second the legit 5 lug swap and with some nice offset wheels

[sR13.5]

guys that all sounds great, thanks for the help. Im going this rout to put these rims on now. I plan on getting other wheels that depend on the color I paint the car. I just need a good tire size on the rims I have now that I haven't installed which will clear well with wider conversion front fenders i don't know the size of and rear 50mm wide fenders, coils, and rucas. Call it pride but I don't like the se's, my car looks ridiculous. the wheels are so sunken in it looks like it's driving over a tight rope, my car reminds me of an arch. sorry guys i'm glad you are committed that I do this car justice and I will but i just need tires, I will sell what I don't need later.

[s13drifter88]

i slide the fu** out of my 13 and im -1* all around. ive driven friends cars running the -5* u people talk about and they drive like trash. IMO correcting the car (switching back) becomes erratic and unpredictable when ur 245's are riding on on 165mm of tread. when only 2/3 or ur tire has a firm, positive contact patch with the road how is that better. with -1 it handles sporty, drives fine and slides like a dream. now if u want a 165mm tread patch on the ground to drift sounds like ur prob isnt alignment, sounds more like u need more power to break wide tires loose and keep them rolling. am i joking... hell no. u people talk about this, seriously... what angle are ur suspension arms at? i bet theyre not perpendicular with subframe (speaking as in as close as physically possible). how many of u have hacked ur subframes and moved all ur pick-up points to maintain ur geometry? anyone? anyone made any effort to keep any arm remotly level. bowed arms have a butterfly effect where they can flex upward, lateral arms are less likely to suffer from that being that the energy applied in a forward direction on the arm itself (ie sideways) pushes the arm more towards the body (more rigid over moving) than flexing upward alowing the body to roll. btw, mr extended controll arms, id hope theyre adjustable coz 5 1/2* sounds like they need some help. between theyre adjustment and camber upper camber plates id hope youd be able to to bring it ALOT closer than 5 1/2 or id get my money back. it looks good ohh yes, but not so good for slide in my opinion, it makes the car sloppy. And by darty i dont mean bumpsteer at all, i mean the feeling like the car kinda wants to dive in directions when making small adjustments. not so smooth. look at bmw's theyre suspension blows anything we have out of the water on any M series. hell even the 7 series will handle with most any sports cars and theyre a 4 door and they dont run rediculous 5 1/2*. if it works for u then fine, enjoy it and have a good time but it is a sloppy set up. S13.5 bro, id try my specs and if u dont like it then feel free to use theirs and let all hell flame me till it freezes over itself. whats the worse that could happen, its adjustable so its not set in stone and can be corrected on any given day. And if u like it and the way it feels then go rip it. however poshatch, i do agree with u on the ligit 5 lug swap also, spacers IMO are okay for that 1/4 to 1/2" if u want but for 4 to 5 lug i wouldnt trust it. the wheel should bolt to the hub, not bolt a wheel on a hub thats bolted to a hub

[s13drifter88]

KSport slide control coilovers and circuit sports arms, stance allum subframe bushings. -1* front, -1* rear. 0 on castor and -.10 toe left and right. car feels good and is fun to drive. S13.5 if u dont like the way that feels then tell me urself i was wrong and i'll apologize for wasting ur time. i just know what has worked for me for a long time and trying to help someone out. i guess other people dont like that, beats me. either way, lemme kno what route u take and how it works out.

[sR13.5]

Hey guys this is helpful and as entertaining as a h.s cat fight. There will be no drifting with this set up. Honestly would not drift as hard with carbon fiber front bumper up front eatting the earth. The spacers are to make these wheels 17x11 in the rear to fill the wells because I have these rims now as well as to prevent the purchase of s14 se rotors or completing my z32 rear brakes. If I had to wait that long I would rather not drive the car and my Mazda is not running yet so this is my daily. I am erkd driving my car as is. I also have a Mazda six Im about to swap a clutch on that I concidered slapping the 962 rims on if I don't deside to sell them. This will not be nor is my only thread. I am also asking nico for what rims and paint you guys would rec for "completing" the car. I can not stress that enough. I have always worked in stages with my car and the rims are what I concider the last part of this stage I call the transformation. I recently dropped the motor and did the bodywork together. I was suppose to fix the stance with it but could not because I had an oppertunity to grab that mazda6. These rims will help me feel at ease without taking a double take at the sunken wheels. Sorry to say but after all the work I did recently the majority of my stares are aimed at my wheels. This it what it is and my concern is tire sizes only.

[poshatch]

yeah...i frequently drive a z4-M that a family member owns..they drive great...butttttttttt....id say this is a little idy bidy bit faster??



yes its not super accurate but you bet its more than 1* you can bet its more than 2.5*...my guess is 4*minimum but its probably more

and the circle...notice the contact patch of the tire...is well...that edge isnt even on the ground

end discussion