"Thought of going SR, then sobered up."

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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pulled out the #4 piston and me and my dad were pulling some small fragments of ring lands out so that ish is done

looks like i need a new piston...


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Chris28
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Well at least you know what it is now haha. Slap in a good piston with some new rings in there and call it a day!

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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^that's the plan!

I just ordered:-OEM piston-OEM rings-ACL rod bearings-OEM full gasket set-OSK timing chain kit-OEM oil pump rebuild-NISMO fuel pressure regulator-FR bando belts-OEM heater hose-Alternator tensioner hardware(was missing it, wtf?)

I still need two more OEM heater hoses which are cheap but other than that it's pretty much all labor from here

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spooled240
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GTR PrYdE wrote:Yeah my pump crapped out 3 days after I got tuned... I got it from ams for like 110.
Did you get that rebuild kit from them? I bought the kit from AMS, but they said it was all OEM parts so it should be all legit the kit looks pretty simple

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homeslicej2
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Glad you decided to keep the KA. After all of that work, switching engines wouldn't have made much sense.

kosh1986
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Car: 1992 Nissan 240SX vert

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its all depends waht your looking for iv dont a sr swap and it was great now im doing a ka-t and see how that works

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spooled240
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Car: kouki s14

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homeslicej2 wrote:Glad you decided to keep the KA. After all of that work, switching engines wouldn't have made much sense.
true, after I sobered up 3K on a stock sr20 swap with less power didn't make much sense especially after all the custom work that went into running that top mount t3/t4 with the external wastegate.
kosh1986 wrote:its all depends waht your looking for iv dont a sr swap and it was great now im doing a ka-t and see how that works
The thing that's nice about the ka is the parts availability since 240sx's had the engine over here for a good 10 years and the cheap parts (as in price, not quality) since it's just an ole truck motor

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240sxvaj
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback KA-T- SOLD!
1994 MKIV TT-Daily/Track
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Damn...did you order brand new piston, rod, ring, etc.... new? how much did it cost? depending on how much it cost i spent 350shipped for new arias piston, 316 eagle rods...hopefully you didnt pay more or else you should of upgraded and prevent any future blow ups when you get boost crave and decide to up the boost...But thats up to you...

i think you should of upgraded the small block..anyhow, after the AMS groupbuy for turbo manifolds and laggin on the ka-ters, you should stop supporting them, all they care about are evo's and highend cars. phase2motor is close by, they can price match and even beat prices. Heck, you can get your Felpro complete gasket set from autozone.

i remember when i did my build it cost me less finding parts than actually buyin their stuff w/ shippin. unless if they reduced their price.
Modified by 240sxvaj at 12:54 AM 7/2/2009

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spooled240
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^ nah i just ordered a new oem piston ($60) and the full oem ring set ($90) im on a tight budget so i'm staying OEM. As far as the boost crave, I'm a pretty conservative guy so I don't think this engine will see anything past 14 psi...a daily 10-12 will be enough for me which is about 250-270whp.

I heard some bad things about AMS laggin on those intake mani's for the ka-ters but I only bought the oil pump rebuild from them which was a little over 100 bux.


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spooled240
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so i finished my ka and dropped it in but i'm having problems adjusting my ignition timing. I aligned it with the pin like the FSM describes and the rotor is aligned with number 1. It starts right up but the timing retarded at around 10 degrees with the dizzy adjusted at full advance stock timing is 20 degrees.

so then restab the dizzy advancing it by one tooth and guess what? Now it's too advanced! It reads about 25 degrees with the dizzy adjusted at full retard. I need to get in between these two teeth and i'm confused as hell. I've been driving around at about 12 degrees and it feels quite a bit slower than before that's for sure, feels sluggish and not really responsive.

I'm thinking of rat-tailing the adjustment window wider on the dizzy but that is my last resort.

oh yeah, i adjusted my nismo FPR to 34 psi at idle and it jumps up to a constant 41-ish psi throughout the rpm's/boost, is that good? I didn't hear any detonation but I was wondering if maybe the engine might run rich cuz of the increase in fuel pressure?

pics coming! I think you guys will like what we did to make the nismo type-a FPR fit

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DevilMB3017
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When you set the timing of the cams, were you at TDC on the compression stroke? That could throw you off I think. TDC isn't always TDC...

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spooled240
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yeah i was. I was actually off one tooth on the intake cam so the engine didn't wanna start and it had a bad lope. AFter that the engine fired up really easy and drove good.

I just rat-filed my dizzy adjustment bigger and that helped I'm at about 18 degrees now with the dizzy at full advance lol.

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spooled240
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PICS:here's that piston that got grenaded:

^ We routed a second nylon tube that goes to the internal breather separator under/inside the intake manifold. It's a small box that bolts to the front cover and has a hose fitting that connects to each runner of the intake manifold. I don't know if there is a check valve mechanism inside of it but just to be safe, I didn't want 15 psi of boost going back to the front cover and it hasn't changed the way the car runs or idles so far.oooooh nice and clean (for now )ghetto fuel pressure gauge setup on wiper lol, temporary tho =]here's what we did to clock the nismo FPR so the adjustment screw wouldn't be touching the cylinder head: (this is looking down, notice my black valve cover right there)We cut off the top of the flange on the fuel rail so we could rotate the FPR in a 1 o'clock position then we made a custom bracket that went behind the flange and sorta "sandwiched" it all together with some very small bolts/washers and nylon locking nuts. So far no leaks and adjusting the fuel pressure is a breeze

Made some adjustments here and there, took her for a drive and she's done! This project took about a month but did i learn a lot! Rebuilding a KA is in my blood now
Modified by spooled240 at 1:00 PM 7/31/2009

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Razi
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Yaaay!Congrats!Car looks good too.

I need to install a fuel pressure gauge and fpr already...

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spooled240
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thanks =] the new walbro and nismo fpr feel pretty good and it's really nice seeing your fuel pressure going UP instead of DOWN going into 12 psi of boost lol

The nismo type-a FPR will not clear the cylinder head on the ka contrary to some of the facts that are out there. FRsport says it does but it doesn't. Even if it did fit, it be a b**** and a half trying to adjust that bolt half way instead a cylinder head indentation. The bracket i made took about an hour and some patience, test fitting and grinding. The FPR is really secured down and won't even move.

I heard another alternative is the nismo type-b with an adaptor but i haven't looked into it.

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GTR PrYdE
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Looking good! I thought you had a ebay tubular manifold?

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spooled240
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thanks! I did and it cracked after a year and a half of daily driving, that might be a record lol

Now i have that cast iron treadstone mani which required me to delete one of the brake lines and relocate my ps reservoir...a lotta work but it works great now

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Chris28
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I have to get me a fuel pressure gauge. It would help troubleshooting a lot lol.

Seeing your engine out then back in gives me the inspiration to put mine back in haha.

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spooled240
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yeah dude the gauge just makes me feel safe cuz i can check my fuel pressure as i go into boost. I just took it out after 3 test drives lol.

i dropped the motor in monday night at around 4:00, worked on it until 1 in the morning, woke up at 9:00 and i had it running by 4:00 on tuesday

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Razi
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Are you using a cheap mechanical one or an electrical one that you'll move into your cabin?

You have to tee into the fuel feed line right? Not the fuel return line.

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Chris28
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Looks like he has it t'd in before it gets to the fuel rail. Spooled where did you get yours?

91 240sx kid
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where are you from i would buy your ka turbo stuff

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GTR PrYdE
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spooled240 wrote:Now i have that cast iron treadstone mani which required me to delete one of the brake lines and relocate my ps reservoir...a lotta work but it works great now
How did you delete it?? Up close pics!

Also- where'd you get that turbine shield? Looks nice

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spooled240
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it is a mechanical one that i tee'd into the fuel feed line after the fuel filter. It was attached to a 6 foot fuel line and routed through the back of my hood on my wiper so i can see my fuel pressure while driving.

I took it off now that I already adjusted the fuel pressure and drove it

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spooled240
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GTR PrYdE wrote:
How did you delete it?? Up close pics!

Also- where'd you get that turbine shield? Looks nice
i cut and shaved off one of the front brake lines (there's two for whatever reason ) and i had it welded shut. Then i tee'd that brake line to the other front brake line. I drilled out that remaining line to pass more fluid, idk if that helped but i did it for the heck of it....it works great and it gave me a good amount of extra clearance from the turbo to the BMC. The nismo MM's raised the engine a little too which gave me more clearance. I'll see if i can get some pictars.

oh and my dad got me that heat shield from his work they were gonnna throw it away or something lol

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Chris28
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Uhhhhhh aren't there two front brake lines because there is one for each wheel? Rear only gets one tee'd into two because it doesn't need as much pressure (brake bias)? I know brake line placement on the master cylinder has a lot to do with the bias but I think each front wheel gets it's own hard line.

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Chris28
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Yeah dude, now you only have one front caliper to slow you down. Page 576 of the FSM shows how the hard lines are routed. Brake System page 4 (BR-4) if you have a different year FSM.

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spooled240
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yeah one for each wheel but that is more than enough. A lot of new cars only have one line for both the fronts. I think nissan designed it that way just for the ABS option but my car is a base model without ABS so it def didn't need one brake line for each caliper, that's ridiculous.

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Chris28
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Oh wow I didn't read the part where you said you tee'd into the other line haha.

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spooled240
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lmao yeah i'm still using both of my front brakes

the hardest part was re-flaring the brake lines, if I were to do it over again i'd get a better quality flaring tool....20 dollar pep boys double flaring tool ftl

Another thing which would've made life easier was the fact that there are brake line tee's around the car like in the right rear wheel well on s14's for instance. Using one of those instead of the aftermarket tee with american threads would've allowed me to just unscrew the lines on the BMC, bend the lines and screw them directly into the metric threads and not mess around with cutting the lines, sliding on the new fittings and re-flaring the ends.


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