"Thought of going SR, then sobered up."

[DevilMB3017]

don't forget that you're gonna need bearings, headstuds, and it would be a good idea to swap out the water pump and/or oil pump depending on how many miles are on them

Bearings? Why?

Headstuds couldn't hurt if they're stretched, but 5 seconds on a gauge will tell you that...and if ARP Studs were used initially, they are reusable anyways.

Water pump can be done easily when the motor is back together, and the oil pump stuff can go either way. Granted if you have the extra $100 when your front timing cover is off, do it.

[spooled240]

I'm gonna try and use as many original parts that I can, granted they are in good condition. Other than the 4th cylinder, my motor is in pretty good shape..never popped a headgasket, never overheated, etc. Just worn out.

[WDRacing]

No need to swap out ANYTHING but that rod and piston. Hell, you could probably leave the rings on the damn thing and it'll wear in. Granted, thats ghetto but it works.

WD

[1mansho]

get new forged pistons, rods at the least. why would you go with an oem rebuild if your tearing down your motor.

[WDRacing]

If you had read the entire thread you'd see that he's thinking about just swapping one rod and piston. Also, the cost of OEM compared to forged is quite alot. Since his goals fall well within what the stock parts can handle, he'll be just fine. That was the whole reason behind NOT going SR...lol.

[DevilMB3017]

get new forged pistons, rods at the least. why would you go with an oem rebuild if your tearing down your motor.

Cause we can't print our own money?

[sorrowfulkiller]

I've always heard to replace bearings whenever you have the engine apart... if you wanna just replace one rod and piston, then replace that bearing while you're at it, you may as well, bearings are cheap!

[WDRacing]

I've always heard to replace bearings whenever you have the engine apart... if you wanna just replace one rod and piston, then replace that bearing while you're at it, you may as well, bearings are cheap!

Agreed

[spooled240]

I don't think i'm gonna need to replace the rod, just a new piston, rings and bearings

[WDRacing]

I usually have stock rod/piston assemblies lying around. iOnly reason I suggested the rod

[neverlift]

from what I have seen locally the sr is where its at, when you have plenty of cash to keep it going... I can pretty much count on one hand how many running sr's are in town, but cannot count on all my extremities how many are in someones shed/garage/car blown to s***. Granted not everyone will have the balls to run a kat, I would take a stock rebuilt ka over an sr any day , and I've blown a couple ka's... drove an sr or two as well, my buddy could barely keep up to my ka sideways with his sr at'300'hp loosely stated lol, was it faster in a straight, yeah but I was rocking 155hp, maybe.

wd is right, pull head/pan, remove piston and replace, get back to boosting! part of what makes a ka great, cheap and easy to fix if youre willing to get dirty

kat for life dont forget it.

[spooled240]

~ka-t for life~

I tested my fuel pressure yesterday to diagnose the pinging issue I had a while back that kinda grenaded my motor. Everything worked fine 43 psi after the pump primed all the way and 34psi at idle. The stock pump dropped to 30 psi at 13 psi but it still pulled hard.

Then I threw my old walbro back in to test the fuel pressure and that thing wasn't working for s***. 34 psi at idle, but immediately decreased to 20 psi at light/moderate loads with lots of stumbling. Defective pump? maybe..anyway I ordered another walbro, I think i'll have better luck with another.

What was interesting was the fact that my car didn't seem to make that "rattling heat shield" noise under the hood at 13 psi, well within the pinging range I had before(11+psi) I'll check it again at that boost level when I get my other walbro in. This is a good thing and a bad thing though; it's good that it's gone but I still don't know what could have caused it and I don't consider it fixed. I should flow test my injectors to see if anything weird is going on.

[WDRacing]

I ran 20psi by accident with a S14 pump. The S14+ pumps are better then the S13. Better to the point that I'd say they don't really need to be swapped out to run a FMU at low boost.

The best option is a pump/regulator combo that will hold the correct pressure throughout the rpm band no matter the boost pressure. I've seen guys run twin 255's before with great success. Then again they were running huge injectors and had a few more cylinders.

[spooled240]

yeah i've been running 10-12 psi with the stock pump with no problems. I'm looking at the nismo type A FPR for the sr20det/ka24de/rb25det but it looks like the adjustment screw would have clearance issues with the cylinder head

[sorrowfulkiller]

I tested my fuel pressure yesterday to diagnose the pinging issue I had a while back that kinda grenaded my motor. Everything worked fine 43 psi after the pump primed all the way and 34psi at idle. The stock pump dropped to 30 psi at 13 psi but it still pulled hard.

Then I threw my old walbro back in to test the fuel pressure and that thing wasn't working for s***. 34 psi at idle, but immediately decreased to 20 psi at light/moderate loads with lots of stumbling. Defective pump? maybe..anyway I ordered another walbro, I think i'll have better luck with another.

What was interesting was the fact that my car didn't seem to make that "rattling heat shield" noise under the hood at 13 psi, well within the pinging range I had before(11+psi) I'll check it again at that boost level when I get my other walbro in. This is a good thing and a bad thing though; it's good that it's gone but I still don't know what could have caused it and I don't consider it fixed. I should flow test my injectors to see if anything weird is going on.

Seems like you got some s***ty pumps O_o

I've always figured 450-500 hp is the limit for a single walbro, and past that you better be upgrading, and I believe the 2jz supra pumps are good for like 600 if I remember right.

In any case, you should get a new walbro.

[spooled240]

i'm gonna pull my motor out and do forged pistons, full gasket set, and a timing chain kit. I'm thinking about keeping my stock oil pump and my stock rods to keep the cost down and i think it's kinda unnecessary being that i'm only gonna be at 280-300whp and the oil pumps don't really wear out much.

On top of that I'll get a nismo FPR with a brand new walbro so fuel management should be failproof (should)

[Charlie240sxt]

rods go for around 4-500 now a days for ka id drop the small extra to have beefy rods

[GTR PrYdE]

If you don't plan on tearing it down soon, do the oil pump and timing chain! As much work that's involved, better to do it now... I didn't... and I paid the price of doing work twice..

If you're rods are fine and you honestly don't plan on more than 350whp... then keep them.

If you plan on going more, 300 shipped for eagle rods is hard to beat!

[spooled240]

^ did your oil pump take a dump on you? I was planning on going with the OSK timing chain kit off of frsport, it's like 150.

I want to do forged rods, new OEM oil pump but that's another 500 bucks....I really want to keep this on a 1200 dollar budget =/

[WDRacing]

Oil pump and timing set should be OEM stuff. I have no data on OSK, but I do know we've had several members NOT use OEM and have serious problems. One resulted in major damage...ended up being cheaper to start ALL over again.

Never cheap out on lubrication or anything to do with the rotating assemblies timing.

No need for new rods...

[GTR PrYdE]

Yeah my pump crapped out 3 days after I got tuned... I got it from ams for like 110.

I did buy the OSK timing kit from FRsport too! Looks very solid and looks identical to the oem kit.

[DevilMB3017]

Oil pump and timing set should be OEM stuff. I have no data on OSK, but I do know we've had several members NOT use OEM and have serious problems. One resulted in major damage...ended up being cheaper to start ALL over again.

I've seen a couple members - including FRSport staff BruinsBear (or whatever his name is?) using the OSK kit with no problems. There was a third company that I'd heard of problems with, but not the OSK or OEM.

[240sxvaj]

i have the osk timing chain and it works fine. been running it for more than 2k miles. if you're on a budget which you are, then get it.

[spooled240]

the OSK stuff is made in japan i believe so the quality is still there.

I pulled my motor out yesterday and it wasn't too bad. I still have to tear it down and inspect the cylinder walls.

anyone have any experience with wiseco pistons?

[spooled240]

I pulled the head off my ka and damn does everything look mint!!! Everything from the timing chain/tensioner to the cylinder walls looks perfect. The cross-hatches from the factory are still clearly visible on the cylinder walls. I'm thinking of just doing rings, a full gasket set, head rebuild and some other maintenance things like belts/hoses and calling it a day. I still might do some other things if the funds are there but my 555cc injectors are only good to about 300 hp anyway with a safe duty cycle so the stock internals will be fine at 9-15 psi tops....i'm pretty stoked! I'll try and get a picture up

[240sxvaj]

You probably wont be able to see the damage until you take out the piston. most likely theres probably a f***Kkkk up piston but if not then you;re lucky.

[spooled240]

here are the pics:Oily/grimy-a** head #1:#2:#3:#4: Pretty oily, maybe from the valve seals?timing chain:tensioner:

I should've taken a pic of the valves and combustion chambers but I forgot =/ the carbon buildup wasn't bad at all

[Chris28]

Looks clean, but like vaj said you might not be able to see the piston damage until you take it out. Either way you have to take the pistons out to replace the valves, so if one is messed up all you have to do is wait for another one to get there haha. I'm glad you sobered up

[Razi]

That's pretty clean for it's age, with the factory cross hatch and everything.

I wonder how everything will look once you pull the pistons out.

[spooled240]

yeah i want to replace all the rings so I'm gonna take all the pistons out anyway. Then we'll see how the bore looks. I'm pretty sure all the cylinder walls are fine, but that 4th piston may need to be replaced.