The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PyR0NiAk
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allenms240 wrote:Stock bore, so 87mm 1.1mm thick cosworth?
I was considering Cosworth, just wanted to get another opinion, thanks.
Yes


idahotuner
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i suppose i should check this thread out more often to help out

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PapaSmurf2k3
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^It would be appreciated!

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just forgot about it lol, cause i didnt have it in my watched topics list.

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AZhitman
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idahotuner wrote:i suppose i should check this thread out more often to help out
Thanks dude! :dblthumb:

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PapaSmurf2k3
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We've had a lot of great contributions from normal members. SpeedEast definitely deserves kudos.

xHimeko
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Sorry for asking so many questions but, since I can put an SR20DET in a 240sx, can I just import and S13?

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PyR0NiAk
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xHimeko wrote:Sorry for asking so many questions but, since I can put an SR20DET in a 240sx, can I just import and S13?
It would be cheaper and much simpler to just convert a S13 240sx...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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xHimeko wrote:Sorry for asking so many questions but, since I can put an SR20DET in a 240sx, can I just import and S13?
I'm guessing you mean import a silvia... basically the answer is no (legally). You can import one, but you can't drive it on the streets. You'd have to swap vins with a US 240sx or something, and have to put up with RHD.

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speedeast
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:We've had a lot of great contributions from normal members. SpeedEast definitely deserves kudos.
Thanks! I try to help out when I can. What good is knowledge that isn't shared?

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240man91
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Or just ka-t. Thats easy to

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240man91
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What do you guys think? Image

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240man91
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Image

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240man91
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Ka-t running a god speed gt28 400 dollars for the turob. Works great spools nice for a cheap turbo an makes full boost at 2700 rpm an full boost is 15psi. An holds it all the way to 7rpm.

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speedeast
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Cheap turbo is asking for failure. I like the kit, but I'm not partial to the taillights.

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PyR0NiAk
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speedeast wrote:Cheap turbo is asking for failure. I like the kit, but I'm not partial to the taillights.
:werd:


And I would go with kouki tails...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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speedeast wrote:Cheap turbo is asking for failure. I like the kit, but I'm not partial to the taillights.
+1... and it looks like your rear wiper is a funky design/color.

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tint the tail lights they wouldnt be so bad then

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240man91
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Yeah i bulit it all got that cat out of a pasture less then a year ag. It was just sitting an roting i have almost got it all restored now just a bit left to go like finsh up the body kit. It is a hicas an has no rust anywhere. An everything works on it like it should. An the rear wiper is a dobble blade wiper.

MRiggs
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I am trying to get an answer to a question. I was under the impression that the BOV should be located on the hotside pipe. My friend is being told that it needs to be on the Coldside pipe. What is the answer here? If it can go on either side what are the pro's and con's to each? Thanks for the help

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Cold side is generally better because it takes any pressure drops through the intercooler out of the equation (less likely to buck), but sometimes if you run a blow-through MAF (like me), you don't always have room to put it over there.

So pros for cold side:
More stable operation (but sometimes that isn't really a factor with a good BOV and good piping system)
Cons: sometimes limited space, tough to find a vacuum line to T into?

Pros for hot side:
More room to play with
Vacuum distribution block can come right off the brake booster, or anywhere else over there
Cons:
If you have a large enough pressure difference between your hot side and your intake manifold pressure, it could trigger the valve to open causing bucking issues.

MRiggs
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Thank you for the clarification. When I was on Enjuku and FRsport it seemed like all they had for sale were hotside pipes with the flange already welded on. I would like to get all new piping that is decent with a flange already welded on for a greddy style BOV. Any suggestions there as well.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well you definitely can't go wrong with Enjuku. They have been a long time sponsor/friend of this forum. FRsport is a solid bet too. You might want to take a trip over to Advertiser's Marketplace to see if any of those places are currently offering a NICO discount.


...for what it's worth, I'm moving the blow off valve on my miata to the hot side.

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speedeast
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Hot side won't give you any problems as long as you recirculate.

idahotuner
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i have ran them on either side, and i perfer them being on the cold, side just moved it backover there actually Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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speedeast wrote:Hot side won't give you any problems as long as you recirculate.
Recirculating shouldn't have any different effect on hot or cold side... especially if you run blow-through MAF or speed density engine management. In fact, with blow-through MAF you almost WANT to run it on the hot side and get it far away from the MAF (and decrease turbulence through the sensor).

...unless you know something I don't.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
speedeast wrote:Hot side won't give you any problems as long as you recirculate.
Recirculating shouldn't have any different effect on hot or cold side... especially if you run blow-through MAF or speed density engine management. In fact, with blow-through MAF you almost WANT to run it on the hot side and get it far away from the MAF (and decrease turbulence through the sensor).

...unless you know something I don't.
The only advantage to recirculating is the reducing the split second your motor will go super rich from metered air being released into the atmosphere. (Your ecu still adds fuel for the metered air.) I'm currently running a Z32 MAF on my S13 SR with a HKS SSQV venting to atmosphere.

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Noxy
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Sorry to interrupt, but quick question even though I'm really not that new...

I was working on my car tonight and found an extra transmission crossmember in my trunk. I don't remember buying another one, and I don't know the letter code on it, which is crossmember "C". I know the one on my car is "B" and I've gotten one from a Skyline that said "A". Not really a pressing issue, but does anyone know what "C" is from?

Thanks,
Zane

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speedeast
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
speedeast wrote:Hot side won't give you any problems as long as you recirculate.
Recirculating shouldn't have any different effect on hot or cold side... especially if you run blow-through MAF or speed density engine management. In fact, with blow-through MAF you almost WANT to run it on the hot side and get it far away from the MAF (and decrease turbulence through the sensor).

...unless you know something I don't.
It doesn't make much difference from one side to the other. That buck you get on the hot side can be reduced by recirculating. I was commenting more on a draw-through rather than a blow-through or other alternative.

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thomasjamal
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Ok, so I'm not new but this seems like a simple question that I haven't found an answer to by searching.

I recently discovered that my Header is cracked. My exhaust has no flex in it so I want to add a flex pipe to prevent this from happening again (obviously I'll also be getting the crack welded). My only question is does it matter where in the exhaust system the flex is? Does it need to be between the header and the cat or can go from the cat to the back?


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