Still Jerking and Bucking 1996 Q45

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bigdog76
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usually at lower speeds but it can and has done it at higher speeds.

But 9 times out of 10 it happens at lower speeds


bigdog76
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One quick note I spilled alot of fuel when I replaced the fuel pump

I have a bad gas smell in the car now for two days. I am sure there is no leak as i replaced the o-ring and have checked it numerous times.

I did drop alot of gas though down by the spare tire. I might need to get in there and wash the car back in the trunk area there a bit to get that smell out.

Has anyone experienced this problem ??as Iam getting bad high when my windows are up driving around town.

maxnix
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Have to be careful and have lots of sacrifical towels around the tank.

Why doesn't dealer do a power balance test?

bigdog76
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Next time I decide to bring it in I will bring that up.

i officially have not paid the $100 for them to diagnious it.

96Qowner
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bigdog76 wrote:Took it to the dealer today.They dont think it is the MAF I didnt get it the diagnostic test done but he told me that what it is doing doesnt sound like the MAF.
I know it may not seem helpful for us to keep pointing at the MAF, but this statement by the dealer just doesn't make sense. It DOES sound EXACTLY like a bad MAF or connector. I can't imagine why they'd say something like that, although current Infiniti dealers are not known for their first gen Q45 expertise. Maybe it isn't the MAF, but nothing else you try fixes it either.

You've jiggled the MAF connector while it was running and you got no change, so it's hard to believe it's the connector, which is often the culprit. But you said that something about the ground for the MAF was suspect - it reads low. Here's a quote from metaverse3 in an old thread:

Try cleaning the MAF..and also run an alternate ground to the MAF harness.. It is usually the black wire in the harness. While you are at it, try to clean out the MAF pins by scraping them with a miniature screwdriver, blow out the metal shavings if any, and add some dielec grease.. This is a widely advised isolation procedure for maf issues advised by nissan in their TSB's.. I have done this to fix hesitation problems before..

zerothread?id=88245

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Jesda
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For the gas odor, clean up the liquids first. Once taken care of, put charcoal briquets in the trunk to soak up the odors.
Q45tech wrote:Always have a working spare before you try to become an electronic technican via home study.

How many of you remeber and have built a HEATHKIT anything?http://www.heathkit-museum.com/other/cr-1.shtml

They use to produce a 12 page book on HOW to SOLDER.
My dad built me a TV. IT STILL WORKS!

bigdog76
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Are you kidding with me on the Charcoal briquets?

I seriously have this lingering odor it will not go away for the life of me.

I double checked all the lines and the pump area and there is not leaks.

But when I open the door early in the morning after the car is siting over night the odor keeps coming back strong.

I dont even want to take my son for a ride in there I think he might get high from the gas fumes.

Where can I get some of this charcoal briquets and does it seriously work??

qship96
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they are the same as the ones you buy for your barbque- any grocery store! better yet,purchase activated carbon from a pet shop{designed for aquarium filters} it is cleaner and more effective.

bigdog76
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What do I do with it sprinkle it all over the truck area or near the fuel pumpwhere do i put this stuff it sounds messy and is this really going to do the trick??

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:What do I do with it sprinkle it all over the truck area or near the fuel pump where do i put this stuff it sounds messy and is this really going to do the trick??
Lay a bag down adn slit open the top about 2/3 of the way so air can circulate. The gasoline is in the compound and will take a long time to leave it. Why one must use towels and keep them fresh.

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elwesso
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OK heres the way this reply is gonna work....

AS I type this, im going to be writing notes about things that stand out to me. I have a hard time remembering and following things when theyre spread out between 2 threads....

So this is a combination of stuff between this thread and the other one linked above...

Things in "* *" are things I am assuming.. PLease read these and make sure I am correct.

**Previous thread**1996 Q45, 191k miles.

- jerking and bucking at lower speeds. - After which the car STALLS - *the car started doing this some time ago, but it has performed normally under your ownership*- bank 1 KS was determined bad- Fuel pump was humming- bought new KS/harness/plenum gaskets- owner did not seem to want to replace fuel pump for some reason

Bullitandy suggested:

-Replace the knock sensors, fuel pump and hoses-they will have to be done anyway in 1-20,000 miles.-The knock sensors cause sluggish performance-not stalling.-The MAF connector is likely to blame for the stalling.

- Owner cleaned MAF to no change.- Owner has K/N filter installed- Thread ends in shame

*end 1st thread*

This thread:

- Owner tested MAF circuit for continuity... all good.- KS is still known NG
Q45tech wrote:Bucking and mild jerking under mild acceleration 45-70 mph in 4th gear .....light throttle especially if ac on as the ecu low octane map [reduces power]............probably not noticeable in a WOT start or pass.

Q always have multiple problems because owners are so numb they don't fix things until they pile up.
To which I agree.

- Fuel pump replaced- KS replaced- *Fuel rail flush performed*

- car still bucks and jerks....

WHEW, im glad we got that taken care of... so to summarize, you replaced the fuel pump and KS, the 2 things we know are bad and it still does it.

Seems too easy doesnt it? You obviously need to replace your MAF. Dont believe anyone that can read the MAF voltage.. You have to read the MAF voltage WHEN IT IS BUCKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of course if the car is running normally the voltage is gonna be normal.....

Your MAF connector we can assume is good because the continuity is fine between the ECU. WORST Case if you have a bad ground you run a new ground wire.... not a real issue, as thats a 5 minute fix (splice n' dice)...

You really need to make sure you have one thats KNOWN good... I would hate for you to buy a used MAF and have it be the same and you assume the MAF you bought is good and then try other things.....

I really think its a MAF problem. ITd be nice if you could get it to throw a CEL for the MAF, then itd make it really easy....

Dealerships anger me. Its not a coil or an injector if your car idles smooth.... Derr, everyone knows that. They want to throw parts at the damn car....

bigdog76
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YA a did this and so far it really does seem to be working.

I also put some in a small bag and put it in the compartment on the rear deck right above the fuel tank. and proped open the door to the compartment so I could have some charcoal in the cabin too.

I will give it a few day but so far so good.

bigdog76
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This MAF sensor issues has been getting progressively worse.

Still jerking and car dies from time to time.

The MAF sensor can cause this many problems?

I will look to replace the MAF soon as I get some cash.

Hopefully its not just a harrness issue. The harness ohmed at good on the test I ran with a voltage meter to the ECU terminals it says to check in the FSM. So I dont think its that.

maxnix
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You need to put the charcoal in the trunk. It is a flow through ventilation system.

So back to the manifold cleaning and rail flush.
Modified by maxnix at 7:36 PM 10/8/2006

bigdog76
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Anybody have any luck buying a used MAF sensor onlineI found one on Used-parts.com for a 1995 Infinity Q45 for $100 bucks in Austin Texas. Production date on my 1996 Q45 is 08/95 Sherl at Everything Nissan said this MAF should work.

Iam in California my Dad is going to go by an check it out for me and save me some money on the shipping.

The MAF has about 108,000 miles on it though is that alot for a MAF?

I just hope this attempt at stopping the jerking is a success cross your finger everyone I will post. Hince jiggling the harrness never caused any problems so I hope it is the MAF and not some ignition coil or fuel injector.

Go Dad for coming thru for me again.P.S. Maybe he will pick up the bill too heheheh!!

bigdog76
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Thanks for the post you got down and dirty on this one. I appreciate it all.

You were correct on all that I have done so far on the car.

I will be getting a used MAF sensor in the next few days. Lets pray that it is in good working condition. Roughly I know it suppose to have 108,000 miles on it. better than the 191,000 mine has.

I do have to say yourself and everyone else on here is very knowledgable on theses cars. I need to stop doubting you all and just get things done first things first that are told to me on the posts.

Within the last year I have had 3 or so thing go wrong and yourself and a few others on the post have hit the nail in the coffin on all my problems.

I will let you know what happens with the newly installed MAF.

P.S. If I do run a new ground wire does that connect to the sold black wire at a close point to the harnness? What do I do just get some wire cutters and splice it into the middle of the wire? and electric tape it up and then ground it to a engine bolt.

bigdog76
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Fuel Rail Flush was not performed.

If the MAF sensor fixes the problem should I just forget theFuel Rail Flush ?

bigdog76
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As a side note to all the stuff that K&N has back there filter onIt could just be a coinicidence that my MAF failed but...

My problems started right after I cleaned my K&N filter with the recharge kit and oiled that bad boy up.not even 2 weeks later is when the problems started.

Since I have re-installed the factory oem filter back in the car now.

We will see if this post has merit after I install the new used maf and see if that solves any of this problem

maxnix
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Depends on the miles and how often the fuel filter was changed, the contamination level of the fuel, etc.

bigdog76
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Need some help My dad went to check out the MAF what was suppose to be a 1995 MAF for my 1996 Infinity Q45

I guess they make 3 pin and 4 pin MAF's didnt know that

Mine has 4 pins on the MAF and 4 females on the harnness. There is only 3 wires going into the MAF but the connector has room for a fourth. as the MAF sensor itself

The one he saw today he said did not have a fourth or a blank fourth in there. no way that would connect to my harnness

I verified it with Sherl at Everything Nissan and she said I need the four pin.On hers at the factory she said she has 3 pins and a blank which would work for me minus the $432 dollars ouch!!

So I need to verify with theses guys before they ship that used maf all the way to Cali.

Anyone have input on this???

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elwesso
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forgive me for I am about to think out loud again

Looking at the TERMINAL SIDE of the connector, it goes

1 2 3 4

Pins1- 2- power supply3- Ground4- Input signal

I dont see anywhere that says what pin 1 does.... If thats the case, its probably the same signal as the earlier G50.... They probably just used the 4 pin connectors even though it still was only 3 pin MAF.... My point is you could probably get a MAF/Connector from an early Q and itd work just fine.... MAF voltage parameters look the same....

my thought is you could find a MAF/connector from an early Q, splice it in and see what happens. worst case youd have to splice your old connector back in, but your proving 1st hand its a PITA to find a 96 MAF since there were so few 96s made.

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goody90q45
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elwesso wrote:....but your proving 1st hand its a PITA to find a 96 MAF since there were so few 96s made.
Captain Luigi on this board has been looking for weeks and I still don't think he has found one. I thought he had determined that the 96 MAF was unique and not interchangeable with any other year (smaller diameter also?).

bigdog76
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Found a guy in oceanside, Ca that has one guy sounded good.

Says the sensor is in a wrecked q45 that made it to his graveyard. He says the engine is clean and the mileage is 120,000. He wants $150 plus tax.

Found another one in Houston Texas that wants $110 bucks for it and he doesnt know the mileage on that ride.

Both are 4 pins.

Dielma is which one do I gamble on?

Texas people drive there cars way hards wide open dustsy rodes or do I go with Oceanside, Ca bumper to bumper traffice driving and pay the extra $40 bucks?

What would you do?

bigdog76
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I went with the MAF from Cali.

I will post if this is a fix on the jerking in the coming week.

Cross your fingers.

maxnix
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bigdog76 wrote:As a side note to all the stuff that K&N has back there filter onIt could just be a coinicidence that my MAF failed but...

My problems started right after I cleaned my K&N filter with the recharge kit and oiled that bad boy up.not even 2 weeks later is when the problems started.

Since I have re-installed the factory oem filter back in the car now.
Known to kill MAF. Members ignore previous posts at their own peril!

96Qowner
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goody94q45 wrote:Captain Luigi on this board has been looking for weeks and I still don't think he has found one. I thought he had determined that the 96 MAF was unique and not interchangeable with any other year (smaller diameter also?).
I know for a fact that a 95 MAF plugs right into a 96 - same diameter. Mine has worked perfectly since I installed it.

texasoil
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Bosch has conduct lots of 'post mortem' investigations of MAF failures. 'Debris errosion/impact with hot wire ' is over 75% of total failure cause. THe 'pop-charger' gravel screener will almost certainly allow damaging particles to hit the MAF fine hot wire on your Q45. Errosion and cracking can/will cause erratic performance and eventually total failure. Try tapping on your MAF (not too hard mind you) and see what happens. if tapping it with your hand causes engine changes--BINGO.

bigdog76
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Well no news yet on the the new (used) MAF that I received.

I was happy I received it in one piece and it was the exact model on the MAF and the connector hooks up exact.

However. Funny thing has occured since I ordered the new (used) MAF my car has mysteriously not had one since episode of jerking or bucking since last Sunday.

Go figure, I wanted to wait till my car was jerking and then pull over and install the new MAF to see if that solved it but with my car not jerking with the old MAF still in the car it has raised an eye brow.

I will not count my chickens yet. I clean the old MAF before and it last a week once so I will give it a few more days to see if it starts acting up again.

I think the outside temperature has something to do with the car running fine for now. My weather here in Southern California has recently turned cooler and I think the air is real cool and real dense. I have no clue to why it is running fine now. I have been running the 91 octane chevron with techtron but I know for a fact that is not why it is running better.

captainluigi
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good luck on that used maf. i tried for weeks to locate a 95/96 maf. had to take a boat to work for a week. terrible isnt it? bigdog, if you end up using that new(used) maf try this. razor knife the square cover off of your old maf, de-solder the copper cover off. what do you see. i live in a VERY corrosive enviroment and corrosion is my nemesis. i de-soldereed all suspect joints then re-soldered them. this is a EASY fix if you know what tools and materials to use. i have sucessfully re-soldered MANY automotive circuit boards, from f150s to s body mbz. email me if you have q,s or direction. i promise you, no matter what, if you posess any diy talent whatsoever, you can do this. ignore the naysayers, but as Q45 suggests, have a working unit on hand. i did not have that luxury. 7k miles after re-solder and still mafing strong.

bigdog76
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I will have to try that. Iam going to give the new (used MAF a few weeks first to make sure she is in gooding working condiiton. Ya tracking theses 95/96 MAF down was tough.

I found one he in CALI. The big thing is making sure you telling the wrecking guys you need a a 4 pin MAF. I sent my dad off looking at one in Austin Texas that claimed to be a 95 and it was only a 3 pin MAF. The wrecking people down know what there talking about on some of thoses items. They dont know the cars as much as we do..

Needless to say I have it in the car now and knock on wood it is doing fine so far.

If I cut that MAF off with a razor knife how do you seal it back up?

I will get back with you on the details when I decide to try it.What do I need a basic soldering iron and the electrical cleaner for the circuit board stuff and go over it and clean it up or what??


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