OK heres the way this reply is gonna work....
AS I type this, im going to be writing notes about things that stand out to me. I have a hard time remembering and following things when theyre spread out between 2 threads....
So this is a combination of stuff between this thread and the other one linked above...
Things in "* *" are things I am assuming.. PLease read these and make sure I am correct.
**Previous thread**1996 Q45, 191k miles.
- jerking and bucking at lower speeds. - After which the car STALLS - *the car started doing this some time ago, but it has performed normally under your ownership*- bank 1 KS was determined bad- Fuel pump was humming- bought new KS/harness/plenum gaskets- owner did not seem to want to replace fuel pump for some reason
Bullitandy suggested:
-Replace the knock sensors, fuel pump and hoses-they will have to be done anyway in 1-20,000 miles.-The knock sensors cause sluggish performance-not stalling.-The MAF connector is likely to blame for the stalling.
- Owner cleaned MAF to no change.- Owner has K/N filter installed- Thread ends in shame
*end 1st thread*
This thread:
- Owner tested MAF circuit for continuity... all good.- KS is still known NG
Q45tech wrote:Bucking and mild jerking under mild acceleration 45-70 mph in 4th gear .....light throttle especially if ac on as the ecu low octane map [reduces power]............probably not noticeable in a WOT start or pass.
Q always have multiple problems because owners are so numb they don't fix things until they pile up.
To which I agree.
- Fuel pump replaced- KS replaced- *Fuel rail flush performed*
- car still bucks and jerks....
WHEW, im glad we got that taken care of... so to summarize, you replaced the fuel pump and KS, the 2 things we know are bad and it still does it.
Seems too easy doesnt it? You obviously need to replace your MAF. Dont believe anyone that can read the MAF voltage.. You have to read the MAF voltage WHEN IT IS BUCKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of course if the car is running normally the voltage is gonna be normal.....
Your MAF connector we can assume is good because the continuity is fine between the ECU. WORST Case if you have a bad ground you run a new ground wire.... not a real issue, as thats a 5 minute fix (splice n' dice)...
You really need to make sure you have one thats KNOWN good... I would hate for you to buy a used MAF and have it be the same and you assume the MAF you bought is good and then try other things.....
I really think its a MAF problem. ITd be nice if you could get it to throw a CEL for the MAF, then itd make it really easy....
Dealerships anger me. Its not a coil or an injector if your car idles smooth.... Derr, everyone knows that. They want to throw parts at the damn car....