Best method for cleaning the MAF...

[OptimusPrime]

I have a 96 Q45 with 65,000 miles and I am experiencing some issues that appear to point to the MAF. I gathered this from reading all the posts here that relate to my problem.

My question to you all is:What is the best method for cleaning the MAF? I sprayed the sensor down with electrical wash (radio shack variety). I was hesitant to try anything else just in case. Your input would gladly be appreciated.

TIA

[metaverse3]

Can you tell us what is happening with the car ?

[Q451990]

The general consensus here is to mist it lightly with brake parts cleaner. Why brake parts cleaner? Because it doesn't leave a residue. Some electrical contact cleaners have a light oil to lubricate volume controls, etc...

Just don't saturate it with anything... just a light mist.

Heath

[OptimusPrime]

Well the problem started about 3 weeks ago. I noticed some light hesitation while freeway driving. It would happen for a brief second and then stop. This would only happen once maybe every 20-30 miles. It has since progressed to the point where it happens while city driving. If I am at a stop I can see the engine idle drop from 750 rpm down belowe 500 rpm. Sometimes it dies especially if coming to a quick stop. Mostly it wont happen when I first drive it in the morning. It usually happens after the car has been parked for a short period of time. Also when it does mis-idle (hesitate) I notice that the exhaust turns to a light black smoke that possibly smells of gas (I am unfamiliar of the smell).

[Jesda]

While it can be caused by many things, it sounds like a bad mass air flow sensor. q45.org under Advice, theres a link to "Bucking/Jerking" which links to an extensive NICO thread on the problem.

Apparently, MAF failures are more common for 1995 and 1996 than 1990-1994. I do not know why.

Cleaning it how Heath suggested should fix it if its just dirty, but if its recurring, a bad MAF is usually the culprit.

The part is somewhat expensive, $366 for 90-94. A used one can be had for $35-$200.

-Jesda

[metaverse3]

Try cleaning the MAF..and also run an alternate ground to the MAF harness.. It is usually the black wire in the harness. While you are at it, try to clean out the MAF pins by scraping them with a miniature screwdriver, blow out the metal shavings if any, and add some dielec grease.. This is a widely advised isolation procedure for maf issues advised by nissan in their TSB's.. I have done this to fix hesitation problems before..

If you have a saturday or sunday to spare..go over the car's grounding points with some intense cleaning.. On my maxima, I used a dremel and a hand drill with grinding and wire brush assortments on the connectors (usually ring connectors) and the area where it mates to.. there might be some areas you might not be able to access, such as transmission grounding points or areas under headers or firewall..I can assure you will notice a difference in the way the car drives after you do this since the resistance readings will improve for the car. BTW, this is the same nonsense that people sell on Ebay as JDM wire kits..which does not do anything and forces you to clean the existing connections to install it thus accomplishing what I just told you for free

[OptimusPrime]

Did you get your past problems fixed that involved all of this Jesda? Can you explain what was necessary and what was not? I have read that you have done alot while trying to remedy a similar problem. I would like to learn from what you have learned from all of that.
Modified by OptimusPrime at 12:16 AM 10/27/2004

[OptimusPrime]

I checked the connector metaverse3... I noticed that where the wires go into the adapter there is a factory rubberlike seal for each of the 3 wires. Do you recommend pulling that out or leaving it alone? I am sure that it is not needed but want to make sure before I play with the connection.

[HeavyDuty]

Try cleaning the MAF..and also run an alternate ground to the MAF harness.. It is usually the black wire in the harness. While you are at it, try to clean out the MAF pins by scraping them with a miniature screwdriver, blow out the metal shavings if any, and add some dielec grease.. This is a widely advised isolation procedure for maf issues advised by nissan in their TSB's.. I have done this to fix hesitation problems before..

Can I get an A-Men!

The ground wire can be identified with a multimeter, I then usually add a ground to that wire as close as is reasonable to the connector, then ground it to the chassis directly. There's an existing ground on the strut tower with a good size bolt already grounding other harnesses.

That was the only way I was getting my car home from the owners house the day I bought it. The connection was so bad, these two schmucks drove by me screaming "FIRE! FIRE!" as they passed on account of the black smoke coming from my 'backyard diamond in the rough.'

I regrounded the MAF & drove home slick as a ribbon.

[Jeff Williams]

I remove mine, and douse it with brake cleaner. I use half the can, on the front and back side. Then I clean the rest of the plastic intake with the remainder of the can. I let it sit for 2 to 4 hours, then re-assemble it.

Then I use a complete can of Intake cleaner on the throttlebody, and the inside of the plenum. I use a screwdriver to wedge the throttle open, and use a light, a toothbrush, and a half roll of paper towels. I keep spraying i nthe plenum, until clear cleaner flows out the bottom. (It helps to park the car on a slight downward incline).

The car usually drives like a dream, after that. You usually can't tell if it is even idling, unless you look at the tach.

[Jesda]

Optimus, the thing that fixed the severe bucking and jerking and wild RPM changes was replacing the MAF.The idle roughness was reduced by new plugs and cleaning the throttle body. I previously had Bosch Platinum, I got Wes's NGKs and he helped me installed those.

[OptimusPrime]

OK, I did the preceding procedures and it runs great. The throttle body was not visibely dirty (64,000 miles) but i cleaned it anyways. I also used the brake cleaner on the MAF. I made one terrible mistake however... While cleaning the MAF I dropped it.... OUCH... One of the corners broke off but I was able to super glue it back on. I know that I will be needing to keep my eyes peeled for another MAF since the corner that broke off contained the threading for the bolt.

Anyways, it runs great so far. I still notice a slight loss of power when the car has been restarted after breifly being parked. Its not much but at least the car is not hesitating as of yet.

Thanks to NICO and Q45.org for all the very useful information and how-to's!!!!