SR Dies out after a few seconds, help (searched, video inside)

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duffman1278
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I tried setting my timing up this weekend and so I set the crank 2nd mark from the left than inserted the CAS like the FSM says and it went in fine. Well I went to turn it on and it shuts off after about 15 seconds. I can hear the fuel pump (walbro 255) on the whole time even after the car shuts off. I kept turning my CAS slightly to adjust the timing on it, but same thing, sometimes it would fire up quicker than other times, but still, doesn't stay. Vacuum lines are brand new, and IC piping couplers are on tight. Should it be turning off for such a sort time? Sometimes it can go on for about 20 seconds almost.http://s5.photobucket.com/albu...6.flv


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BuLLeTdrift
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I'm still learning, and I'm sure you know more than me, but i had a similar prob when i first went to start my SR for the first time. My problem was my CAS was 180 degrees off. Once we fixed that, it started up and then we ran into more probs, but that is another story. Main thing is, thats what helped me out.

duffman1278
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Thanks, I'll try that out because I have an extra CAS lying around here but the plastic on the plug is broken so I can't keep it there, I guess i'll put it to test it out.

idahotuner
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al so you might want to check for a leak some where. cause mine did that when my intercooler pipe popped off. but yea timing is going to a MFB to get back on. i am worried it wont get it set right. but we will see.also when you are set at TDC and are your cams intake at 10 and exhuast at 12. lined up on the daeker links on the chain. or in the case of my chain lighter links. cause i belive you have to get your tdc and 10 and 12 o nthe cams lined up with the different colored links and thne you can slid your CAS in with the marks on it lined up and then your timing should be on. thisis what i am going to try to do and how i under stand it. ou may have to manually turn your motor over several times to get it set up like this.

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White Comet
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yeah, i was thinking its 180 off too. my friends ka was the same way. we fixed that no more probs

sx_hatch
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i know exactly what your problem is, i had the same exact problem!

duffman1278
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Its wierd though, I think the color on my links has washed away cause they ALL have the same color on my chain. I'll probably have to check the IC piping I guess.

duffman1278
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sx_hatch wrote:i know exactly what your problem is, i had the same exact problem!
lol what is it? 180 degree's off?
White Comet wrote:yeah, i was thinking its 180 off too. my friends ka was the same way. we fixed that no more probs
So if its 180 off, do I just rotate the CAS gear 180 degree's?

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BuLLeTdrift
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well try to set it at TDC as best as possible. since you dont have the colored links, i guess pay attention to the two dots on the cams (when ever they come to 10 n 12)and the lines on the pully (second mark on the right). with the first spark plug out, you can look inside to get a better idea where you are at as well.

Anyways, when it is hopefully at TDC, pull the CAS out and rotate the gear completely around (360) to where alignment dots are back where they need to be. that should get it back to where it needs to be.

duffman1278
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Can I just rotate it till the camshafts on the first cyclinder face away from each other? Is that TDC? And as for rotating the CAS, you mean like rotating the gear 360* after I pull it out and than trying it again based on the FSM?

blinker_fluid
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Always make sure your at tdc when installing the cas(2nd mark from left and cam lobes pionting away from center). Line it up like the fsm says and stick it in. It should be able to idle if you did it right. Warm it up, turn it off unplug the tps, start it and adjust the idle screw to make it stay at 800 rpm(might stall until the idles set), snap the throttle a few times then get the timing light and adjust the cas. Once you have the timing at 15 degrees btdc turn it off, plug the tps back in, and adjust the idle again.

duffman1278
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Yea I just can't hook up a timing light to it since it shuts off really quick. I wouldn't have time to use it.

idahotuner
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dudei hope you figure it out then you cna help me.

duffman1278
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Barely realized this now while sitting at work staring at the wall lol but I remember when I went to check out the motor, I had the guy do a compression test, so he hooked up the gauge and what not, than crankced the engine with no CAS, could this cause it to be 180 off?

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BuLLeTdrift
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its amazing at the stuff you can figure out by staring @ a wall lol

First, why would he pull out the CAS to do a comp test?

anywho, it would be by luck that he took it out, cranked the motor, and put it back in without having it be 180 off. Find TDC, pull it out, rotate the gear a full 360 degree turn, and put it back in to FSM spec or heavythrottle's write up (same thing).

But to find TDC for you..hmm....Well lets look at everything else since you dont have the two links to find it.*When you are at TDC, obviously, we know where piston 1 is*The two dots on the cams are quote "at 10 and 12" looking away from each other*The crank pully is on the second to the left mark*The CAS dot closest to the gear (mating mark) is lined up to the notch on the CAS closest to the sensor plug.

Get it there, or as close as you can and pull it out like i said and rotate it a complete 360, and put it back in as per FSM.

Hope i am helping and not making it worse.

duffman1278
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haha yea you're helping ALOT, I'm gonna try this all out hopefully either wednesday or today, but doubt I have time today

nzmoman
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BuLLeTdrift wrote:But to find TDC for you..hmm....Well lets look at everything else since you dont have the two links to find it.*When you are at TDC, obviously, we know where piston 1 is*The two dots on the cams are quote "at 10 and 12" looking away from each other*The crank pully is on the second to the left mark*The CAS dot closest to the gear (mating mark) is lined up to the notch on the CAS closest to the sensor plug.

Get it there, or as close as you can and pull it out like i said and rotate it a complete 360, and put it back in as per FSM.

Hope i am helping and not making it worse.
cams at 10 and 12 should match the marks on your chain(usually, two dark links should be easily noticeable), and by 10 and 12 he means 10 o'clock for the intake and 12 o'clock for the exhaust. a little to the left for the intake and straight up for the exhaust.

also, you need to be careful because you can jack up your valves by trying to run the car with the timing wrong.

duffman1278
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Okay well I took off the valve cover(again....) and obviously I had been trying to run the motor before, so I manually turned the crankshaft and I got this on the second mark from the left. You can see the gold chain on top.

On here I rotated the crankshaft 360 degree's and got this now. I can tell you that I never stumbled upon the darker colored chains, but this is what I got after the 360 spin, AFTER the gold links.




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BuLLeTdrift
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show a pic of your CAS as it sits right there. sometimes it takes one full spin on the crank, other times it takes what seems like 1000 turns. also, pull the spark plug out of the first cyl and see if you can see the piston up high (not the tell all be all, but another thing to look for). you dont have to worry about bending a valve, you aren't messing with the sprokets themselves. the CAS tells the coil packs and injectors when to fire off, it doesn't tell the sprokets when to turn.

if you set in the CAS correctly the first time, and the weirdo who did the comp test put it back in as he found it, the mating mark should be lined up with the notch on the CAS. more pix

EDIT: ****, just noticed the CAS was out, thats changes it up doesn't it. nothing at all on the links? no distinct scratch, color, smell, taste? I can't imagine putting in the CAS at the wrong time doing anything too serious to the motor. Other than getting too much fuel in the system and just messing up your firing with spark and fuel order, but that can easily be reconginzed when it doesn't start.

More experienced owners need to show up!!
Modified by BuLLeTdrift at 9:00 PM 11/19/2007

duffman1278
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Well I pulled out the CAS before spinning it, but should I put it back in and show you guys the pics? Because I know it down line itself up

duffman1278
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So I went to insert the CAS and made sure the dot closest to the CAS mark was aligned, and it was. Here are the pics. You might not be able to see the other dot but I did check it and it is aligned, for some reason my orange dot is really faded


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BuLLeTdrift
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if the motor is set right, that is deff TDC. Fook it, just take it back out, rotate that bish till that dot is back right where it is, put it all back in and together and start it up see what happens.

idahotuner
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dude, this is helping me out ALOT. i cant find the dark links o nmy chain either. also i have two gold links that are the right distance apart. does anyone know of gold links instead of darker links being used in an sr20?

duffman1278
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BuLLeTdrift wrote:if the motor is set right, that is deff TDC. Fook it, just take it back out, rotate that bish till that dot is back right where it is, put it all back in and together and start it up see what happens.
So spin the CAS gear 360 degree's than put it back in?

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BuLLeTdrift
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yessir

idahotuner
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check out this. look for two silver links.

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White Comet
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^ nice, yeah rotate 360 from there

duffman1278
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White Comet wrote:^ nice, yeah rotate 360 from there
So you're saying the way I have it now, rotate it 360 degree's again? I think that'll bring back the gold link.

I was trying to look for the 2 silver links, but I never found them as I spinned it.

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White Comet
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thats what i would do, yes, odd that there were no silver links though

duffman1278
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Alright well I'll try it like this on wednesday and see what happens, if I get the same results, I'll rotate the crankshaft 360 degree's and see what happens there. If its the same thing i'll just shoot myself lol I'll post videos of it when I do it.


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