Some of my new mods. What do you think?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Well as most of you know I had the big Radiator issue and I couldn't find any radiator to my liking. So i ended up going with the R33 Aluminum racing radiator. Had to cut a few things to get it to fit. But I believe its going to do its job now.





Finished the oil cooler with the Greddy Sanwich plate with a thermostat and cooler, Had some Napa custom 2500lb lines made.





Also made some fan side shrouds:



Not sure if anyone has ever tried this yet. But I moved my MAFS to my front bumper and used a Flex aluminum pipe to run to the turbo.









I havent got to drive the car since all the new changes. But she purrs like a kitten at idle and rev.

Also added 4 autometer carbon fiber gauges:



I now am in the process of fabing up some Fender braces and a power bar to stiffen the front end.

Then the roll cage should top off the structure of the car.

I have had to put the Propane conversion on hold until I get all this work done. But within the next 2 months I will give you guys the write up and Dyno numbers from the conversion.



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Shocker
Posts: 2082
Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2004 2:40 pm
Car: 89 240sxHB rb26/30

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looking good, no pics of the sandwich plate adapter? I did mine last night but found out I had to keep the stock oil to water cooler as well, and sandwiched over that. I think 240sxmotoring lied about it being a "greddy" it says "GREX" on it....

not sure about your heat ducting, looks like that **** could rip easy and leak...

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Ya I didnt get any pictures of my oil cooler installed yet. it was getting dark last night and hard to see, but Ill try and get some.

Grex is on the side of it, The name doesnt bother me tho, It seems to work nice.

But I think they did Lie!! Its the 1st and prob last part Ill buy from them.

I had to keep the stock oil/water cooler also.

The air ducting is kinda a temp mock up. Im going to bend a pipe to replace it with. I just wanna see how the car is going to react b/f I go through all the trouble of making a pipe.

gawdzilla
Posts: 2028
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2004 11:51 am
Car: none

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besides the fact that its made out of dryer hose, seems pointless to move the MAF so far front. you could just leave the MAF in the stock location and run some ducting to direct fresh air to it instead.

i like that strut tower to front brace you have though. looks kinda beefy. did you make that yourself?

also, why are you stiffening the front so much? for a drag setup i would even remove the sway bar so the front can flex and pull up easier

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lilskyline240
Posts: 1887
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 9:55 am
Car: 90 240sx w/ rb30det

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that maf setup is going to give u a TON of problems. because when your driving air is going to be forced into the maf faster than the car is using it causing your ecu to think its using more air then it really is which is going to cause a rich condition and youll bog down majorly. Happened to me when i tired the same thing

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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HAHA Yes Dryer Hose!! LOL, From Lowes, but I was going to run just some ducting from the bumper to the MAF, Buteasier said then done. I seen It would be easier to Bolt it to the bumper and also it wouldnt get as much heat being away from the header.

The strut braces in the front I made myself. Eventually over the years I hope to be running enough power to be the first 240sx to enter in a power wheelie contest LOL J/k, But if I get my setup right it should do a nice wheelstand at the track and I don't wanna worry about twisting the car in half or slamming the front end down and breaking the frame.

Just extra insurance on my part. Makes me sleep better at night.

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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lilskyline240 wrote:that maf setup is going to give u a TON of problems. because when your driving air is going to be forced into the maf faster than the car is using it causing your ecu to think its using more air then it really is which is going to cause a rich condition and youll bog down majorly. Happened to me when i tired the same thing
Did you run a filter with it?

Im going to cut and put a filter in the bumper to prevent the air being forced.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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I am going to have to agree. That maf without a filter is going to give you issues because the air flow coming into it is not going to be laminar especially if it is exposed to forced air. I would move it back into the engine bay like gawdzilla said, put an air filter on it with a conical inlet, and duct cool air towards it.

There is automotive grade flexible duct piping out there that is relatively cheap, but not quite a cheap as the dryer vent pipe from Lowe's

rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Darius wrote:I am going to have to agree. That maf without a filter is going to give you issues because the air flow coming into it is not going to be laminar especially if it is exposed to forced air. I would move it back into the engine bay like gawdzilla said, put an air filter on it with a conical inlet, and duct cool air towards it.

There is automotive grade flexible duct piping out there that is relatively cheap, but not quite a cheap as the dryer vent pipe from Lowe's
The MAF will have a filter, so I don't think I will have an issue. But if I do ill move it back to the engine bay. Im mostly just trying to clean the engine bay up! Dang they get messy in no time. esp with wires.

Once I see the MAF move is going to work, Ill just bend some exhaust pipe in place of my lowes flex pipe LOL.

My main concern was if the radiator was going to work. I started it the other night and let it run. It never got above 170. Which is what thermostat I out in so I think overheating has finally been resolved!!

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Carl H
Posts: 5985
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 4:09 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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grex=trust=greddy.move the maf, use proper ducting but as said before turbulance will cause it to stall.

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lilskyline240
Posts: 1887
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Car: 90 240sx w/ rb30det

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even with a filter on it in that location u might still have problems. your not really achieving anything significant by getting that cold air. your turbo is going to heat thst air up so fast its not goin to matter. plus a longer intake pipe hurts ur spool time

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Shocker
Posts: 2082
Joined: Sun Aug 01, 2004 2:40 pm
Car: 89 240sxHB rb26/30

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Carl H wrote:grex=trust=greddy.move the maf, use proper ducting but as said before turbulance will cause it to stall.
thanks for the clarification big 3000.

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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lilskyline240 wrote:even with a filter on it in that location u might still have problems. your not really achieving anything significant by getting that cold air. your turbo is going to heat thst air up so fast its not goin to matter. plus a longer intake pipe hurts ur spool time
Well Im going to give it a shot and see what happens. It honestly seems to rev quicker just at idle. But when I do Propane the MAF will be eliminated anyways.

I think at WOT I will see a huge difference in the air temps coming in. Maybe not at cruising.

But ill give it a nice drive in about a week and update ya on how she went. It has been running a little lean already so a little more rich wouldn't hurt.

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lilskyline240
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Car: 90 240sx w/ rb30det

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it wont run a little more rich, it will run STUPID rich. your car will bog, then catch, then bog, then catch making a bucking broncho action. Your intake temps might be cooler but ill bet u your cold pipe temps will only be diff by MAYBE 5 degrees. Ur better off making your intercooler more efficient than making a cold air intake on a turbo car

rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Then why do all these Turbo drag cars run there suck pipes from the front of the car?

It doesnt make any sense to me to run Hot air through something that runs better with cold air temps.

I understand about the forced air in the MAFS making it run richer. But its not going to be reading alot different once the filter is installed, That should restrict it enough to not cause that.

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lilskyline240
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cuz its a drag car. that extra 5-10 degrees is critical to them. a filter MIGHT fix the problem but prolly not totally. I guess just go ahead and do what ur gunna do.

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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lilskyline240 wrote:cuz its a drag car. that extra 5-10 degrees is critical to them. a filter MIGHT fix the problem but prolly not totally. I guess just go ahead and do what ur gunna do.
Well to me those 5-10 degrees are critical also, Ill let ya know if your right or not in a week.

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Carl H
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lol for ever 10* dropped its like a .5hp gain...is that really worth it?i think you'll find that even tho the car runs fine stationary once you start moving it will stall or buck.

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Eikon
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rb25drag wrote:Then why do all these Turbo drag cars run there suck pipes from the front of the car?

It doesnt make any sense to me to run Hot air through something that runs better with cold air temps.

I understand about the forced air in the MAFS making it run richer. But its not going to be reading alot different once the filter is installed, That should restrict it enough to not cause that.
To the best of my knowledge, most turbo drag cars run MAPS rather than MAFS.

rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Ya the drag cars run maps.

But when I go to the Propane here within the next month the MAFS will be elliminated. So My inlet of cold air is going to drop those intake temps without effecting the running of the car b/c of the mafs reading wrong.

Im running the z32 MAF on the Stock ECU which Darius says is wrong and won't run right. But it seems to run fine with it.

Im not sure whats so different from my setup and the rest or yours but mine seems to run different and put down alot more than yours with less boost.

I have been trying to get answers since I joined, No one can tell me why and I have been told Im wrong in many ways and on many forums.

I don't know why mine runs the way it does guys but it runs good. So I guess its just a factory freak.

Ya I know I have not got it on the Dyno. But I do have track numbers which is as far as I know or have gotten out of anyone on the board the best, running less boost. 7.80@91MPH

Everyone has called me a liar about the numbers I think it makes. But the guys who have denied me then took a ride afterwards didn't have any words to say. I have a friend, Nissan tech, 30+years old. He's built a 20+ PSI 280Z inline 6, he put down 460hp and he took a ride and says it feels about the same amount of pull on his 280Z, So we lined them up. I pulled him 1/2 car off the line and he Slowly inched beside me and we shut down at 140. So why does my motor pull like a 400+ HP motor?

Im happy with the way it runs, Just gotta get those little details worked out.


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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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proly pulls like a cut bastard due to lean afrs induced by your non compensated z32 maf.you know the saying lean is mean, then it blows up.

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leesredgt
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1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo

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lilskyline240 wrote:it wont run a little more rich, it will run STUPID rich. your car will bog, then catch, then bog, then catch making a bucking broncho action. Your intake temps might be cooler but ill bet u your cold pipe temps will only be diff by MAYBE 5 degrees. Ur better off making your intercooler more efficient than making a cold air intake on a turbo car
not to thread jack but my car is doing that.idk why i havent done anything to it i just put the engine in the car and it dose it. i have a nismo fpr on it with a walbro pump and its set to 36psi.I think my base timng might be off could this cause it?

mott6904
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Looks like you just threw it together and called it a day

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tight240
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Now someone please correct me if im wrong, we have a MAF wich meausure AIR FLOW so what the hell is the big deal about temp? The only difference is cold air has more air molecules, which is what the MAF is doing..................... measuring air, not tempature. Now puttin the maf all the way up front is going make it run hella rich because off all that air bein forced not the tempature. Now what do you have done, for your car to be pullin like a quote on quote 400hp 280Z?

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rbsileighty
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tight240 wrote:Now someone please correct me if im wrong, we have a MAF wich meausure AIR FLOW so what the hell is the big deal about temp? The only difference is cold air has more air molecules, which is what the MAF is doing..................... measuring air, not tempature. Now puttin the maf all the way up front is going make it run hella rich because off all that air bein forced not the tempature. Now what do you have done, for your car to be pullin like a quote on quote 400hp 280Z?
I'm not really sure what you're trying to say... but you might want to understand how a MAF works anyway

http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage060.html

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lilskyline240
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hes not tryin to get cold air for his maf....hes tryin to get it for his motor. Lower intake temp means denser air...

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tight240
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rbsileighty wrote:
I'm not really sure what you're trying to say... but you might want to understand how a MAF works anyway

http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage060.html
rbsileighty wrote:
I'm not really sure what you're trying to say... but you might want to understand how a MAF works anyway

http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage060.html
I understand how it works, thats y i was trying figure out y it seems y people were puttin temp in as a facture.

rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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mott6904 wrote:Looks like you just threw it together and called it a day
Something like that!!
]hes not tryin to get cold air for his maf....hes tryin to get it for his motor. Lower intake temp means denser air [/QUOTE wrote:
Yes that is the plan. Cold intake temps = more power
wrote:Now what do you have done, for your car to be pullin like a quote on quote 400hp 280Z?
You wouldn't believe me!

rb25drag
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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mott6904 wrote:Looks like you just threw it together and called it a day
Something like that!!
]hes not tryin to get cold air for his maf....hes tryin to get it for his motor. Lower intake temp means denser air.[/QUOTE wrote:Yes that is the plan. Colder intake temps = more power
wrote:Now what do you have done, for your car to be pullin like a quote on quote 400hp 280Z?
You wouldn't believe me!

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tight240
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u on stock turbo, stock inj's, tuned ecu??????????


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