Some of my new mods. What do you think?

[rb25drag]

Yes, Stock turbo, Stock injectors, Stock ECU with a SAFC which doesn't help much.

[rb25drag]

SHocker! Here is the oil cooler installed.

[Shocker]

looks like mine, although if you look at the first page of my cursed thread I placed my oil cooler in a different spot. I felt the rad and IC took up to much air flow. I'm excited to see how it works! Need to get me a temp gauge though first.

[rb25drag]

Ya I like the way yours sets, But I kept my bumper support.

The cooler sets right in front of my electric fan, So it should cool really well.

I have my oil temp gauge installed but I just havent ran a power wire yet. Im going to friday. Hopefully I get a test drive this weekend!

[Shocker]

Ya I like the way yours sets, But I kept my bumper support.

The cooler sets right in front of my electric fan, So it should cool really well.

I have my oil temp gauge installed but I just havent ran a power wire yet. Im going to Friday. Hopefully I get a test drive this weekend!

Thanks, Me too! Your cooler will be better than nothing but it that way, it will definitively do something.

Yeah I've got my FMIC braced like a bumper support, hopefully it will work if ever needed.

[rb25drag]

LOL, Thats why I kept mine. I know if I ever hit a guard rail head on I will definatly not be going slow, SO maybe the bumper support will provide a little more cushion.

[rbsileighty]

I understand how it works, thats y i was trying figure out y it seems y people were puttin temp in as a facture.

This is from that link:"Both designs work on the "hot wire" principle. Here's how theywork. A constant voltage is applied to the heated film or heatedwire. This film or wire is positioned in the air stream or in an airflow sampling channel and is heated by the electrical current thatthe voltage produces. As air flows across it, it cools down. Theheated wire or film is a positive temperature coefficient (ptc) resistor."

"Adjustments for air temperature and humidityare taken into consideration since they also affect the temperatureof the heated wire or film."

[rb25drag]

I know the SAFC doesnt work all that well with this motor, But I have over time been able to tune the rich/ idle stage out of the car.

When I first put the motor in and was driving it, Every time I would want to stop the car would try to die, Basically would load up with fuel, just like you guys stated it would do with the new MAF location, But the MAF was located under the hood at the time. I adjusted my timing, Changed to AcDelco plugs, with a smaller gap and tuned the fuel maps that I could with the SAFC and the problem went away.

Then I went to the track, Did my burnout, Of course Im a show off so I clicked the line lock off and go through the staging lights at 6400RPM and let off, Guess wat, yup the car dies instantly Flooded ALOT!!! she cranks back, I make my pass and go back to the trailor, Now the car is idling like poo, So I unplug the Water temp sensor and the car purks up and idles fine. My guess is the sensor suddenly went bad. So I go back to make another pass, Do the same burnout, and she idles fine, Problem solved. So I think there is a few issues mostly with the water temp sensor vs the maf that could cause for a rich stall.

My solution I threw away my water temp senor and taped the hole for my Autometer water temp gauge and called it a day.

But I think over time the SAFC will help, prob not cure but help a rich/ lean motor with alot of street runs and tuning.

[S13Koop]

I think 240sxmotoring lied about it being a "greddy" it says "GREX" on it....

[tight240]

This is from that link:"Both designs work on the "hot wire" principle. Here's how theywork. A constant voltage is applied to the heated film or heatedwire. This film or wire is positioned in the air stream or in an airflow sampling channel and is heated by the electrical current thatthe voltage produces. As air flows across it, it cools down. Theheated wire or film is a positive temperature coefficient (ptc) resistor."

"Adjustments for air temperature and humidityare taken into consideration since they also affect the temperatureof the heated wire or film."

Damnit!!!!!!!!!!!!!! there is always some politically right a** hole on here how come you cant just let me be wrong lol. Jus jokin, ok i see, i never got taught the specifics specifics, i was jus told it send a signal to the ecu sayin ey its colder air (more air molecules) go head and send some more fuel in here.

[Shocker]

sorry I don't have a JDM company alternate name book at my disposal. No need to be a c***, I do believe Carl corrected me just fine. Thanks.

-Cory

[Carl H]

are you serious?you removed one of the major input sensors because you felt it wasnt needed?im sorry but thats effin rediculous...blaming the water temp sensor for a poor setup.

My solution I threw away my water temp senor and taped the hole for my Autometer water temp gauge and called it a day.

But I think over time the SAFC will help, prob not cure but help a rich/ lean motor with alot of street runs and tuning.

[rb25drag]

are you serious?you removed one of the major input sensors because you felt it wasnt needed?im sorry but thats effin rediculous...blaming the water temp sensor for a poor setup.

Whats the problem with removing it? It runs ALOT better now? I have only seen improvements on the things I have done.

[S13Koop]

sorry I don't have a JDM company alternate name book at my disposal. No need to be a c***, I do believe Carl corrected me just fine. Thanks.

-Cory

books? what the hell are those?guess u don't have the internet either i love NICO!!!

[skylinegrl13]

i am no expert or anything, but if your water temp sensor takes a crap, your car doesn't automatically start idling poorly. and running without one is a risk i wouldn't take, but hey it's your car. are you sure you didn't cross some wires or something??

i agree with Carl. and it seems like everytime someone writes something like "well it runs fine like that so i'm leaving it that way even if it is shady..." it is usually followed with something like "well my engine blew..." a few months later. good luck man.

[rb25drag]

Well this is exactly why im switching to propane. To elliminate all these stupid good for nothing but a pain in my *** sensors. The car runs good. A/F is right not lean or rich any more. I have ran the car without the sensor since last year and NO issues. So if She blow!! Well too bad I honestly don't give a damn anymore. Im working on my 79 vette now. Im tired of screwing with this Dramatic Nissan ****. Im a fan to a point. But I honesly will never own another Nissan. Im done with 4cyl and 6cyl, Time to build a 600CI turbo charged 1500+HP monster vette. Now that is my dream car.

[rb25drag]

Also when it does blow, like you guys claim its going to. Ill use the pistons as a shifter knob in my vette.

I think its funny you guys all neg rep me about my setup but yet when it comes to track times. I put down better numbers on my setup than anyone else that has a closer setup.

[rbsileighty]

I don't think anyone is really bashing you... just bringing up concerns... just some people are better at dialing back than others

Temp sensor for the ECU is important. Basically all of your sensors in a modern setup are there to create a closed loop system and if they aren't there or not functioning correctly then your ECU will most likely default to a safe mode... like when your O2 goes bad... doesn't mean your car won't work, but it most likely will not be optimal

No need on bashing everyone... we all live and learn with these things... and there's something to be learned from even the people we don't like or agree with

And just to throw this out there... b/c I can... I'm cool with you being faster at drag than mine b/c mine is built for circuit racing

In short and back to my point... no need for people to bash someone for not realizing something, but also no need to just say "well it works" and ignore there might be something wrong with a setup

[rb25drag]

Not bashing on anyone and I understand were your coming from.

I understand the point of the sensors and I know they will screw with the ECU if there not functional. But I am building this setup for Propane which is eliminating all the sensors that thows fuel curves to the ECU. But everyone seems to think Im doing this for NO good reason. Point is I can't set here and explain all my reasons and theory's of why im doing something. I just do it. If it doesn't work then I fall back on plan B. But So far I have had No issues with any of my changes.

[skylinegrl13]

but yet when it comes to track times. I put down better numbers on my setup than anyone else that has a closer setup.

oh you mean this: 7.80@91MPH

that's the only time i've seen you post, although maybe i missed something. as for those numbers up there, you need to either move the decimal or add a 1 if you want people to believe it. 400hp is not enough to hit 7's in a car over 2000lbs. don't turn your back on nissan because you don't like what people on the internet are saying to you, you put yourself out there to begin with, you have to take the inevitable crap.

[rb25drag]

7.80 was my best yes. I have posted numbers before. But that was the only one on this particular thread. No decimals needed to be moved. It is wat it is.

To be exact.

1st pass. 9.80 @ 81 MPH on 4lbs of boost ( I had never run the car at the track so I took it easy)2nd pass 8.42@86MPH on 4lbs of boost3rd pass 8.86@ 84mph on 4lbs of boost4th pass 8.40 @86mph on 4lbs of boost5th pass 8.16@89mph on 8lbs of boost6th pass 8.14@89mph on 8lbs of boost7th pass 8.06 @ 87mph on 9lbs of boost8th pass 8.53 @89mph on 9lbs of boost ( Major tire spin)9th pass 7.84@91mph on 10lbs of boost10th pass 7.80@91mph on 10lbs of boost and no launch control 11th pass 8.36@88MPH on 10lbs of boost ( Major bog due to different tire setup)12th pass Broke rear end. 6400RPM launch = Death

Im not turning my back on nissan b/c of people on the internet. Talk all you want. Im just tired of spending the funds of a 400hp nissan were I could be spending the same amount on my vette and getting 1500HP out of a turbo charged small block. Im just tired of spending spending spending with nothing for the outcome. Ya the car runs good when its not broke but out of the 5 years I have spent building the car as a DD I have only gotten 1,000 miles out of it. A dependable DD is not in the view of this car and I see that.

Like everyone else has been claiming. Its just been a paper weight in my garage.

[rbsileighty]

1/8th mile times right?

[rb25drag]

yes

[rbsileighty]

So maybe/probably low 12's in the 1/4... that's realistic for that power

[rb25drag]

If I had a 1/4 mile track I would give you the numbers. Not really sure How it would run. But as a estimate. Ya low 12's to high 11's would be close.

[tight240]

no mean to thread jack, but would it be around the same effects of puttin the maf right on the front of the inlet side of the turbo w/ no intake cause the car to run the same way? It just kinda work in reverse, mounting it in the front of the car air is being rammed into the maf, right in front of the inlet side of the turbine air kinda bein rammed in because of the open air bein sucked into the turbo w/ not tube? And what i mean by the same way i mean running really rich.

[tight240]

any input anybody?

[datsun2401972]

The reason I'm going with nissan power instead of chevy is because I don't have to crack open the block to push more than 10psi....where the chevy would break rods/pistons/etc...

And you might find it cheaper and more beneficial if you went alcohol instead of propane....

....and you won't get 1500hp out of that chevy for the same price....

[Kansei240sx]

Just because you remove something and it runs better doesn't mean it's right.

2 cents

[Shocker]

oh man, I missed all this action.

Drag no need to hate on the poor RB, they can run reliably, actually once they do run thats when I felt it for sure. I had no issues with the setup that you have. None, that was over the course of a full year, driving 6-7k miles. And I drove it EVERYWHERE I could. She took me to to c-bus a few times which is 2.5-3 hrs away.

Its when I started dumping cash into it to go bigger is where I had issues. Its just how it goes and how it goes for a good deal of motors/cars.

I agree with everyone else who said just deleted a sensor that IS needed to fix an issue is the wrong way to go about it.