Some of my new mods. What do you think?

[gawdzilla]

I don't know why mine runs the way it does guys but it runs good. So I guess its just a factory freak.

Ya I know I have not got it on the Dyno. But I do have track numbers which is as far as I know or have gotten out of anyone on the board the best, running less boost. 7.80@91MPH

Everyone has called me a liar about the numbers I think it makes. But the guys who have denied me then took a ride afterwards didn't have any words to say. I have a friend, Nissan tech, 30+years old. He's built a 20+ PSI 280Z inline 6, he put down 460hp and he took a ride and says it feels about the same amount of pull on his 280Z, So we lined them up. I pulled him 1/2 car off the line and he Slowly inched beside me and we shut down at 140. So why does my motor pull like a 400+ HP motor?

@ this magic motor nissan custom made for you that only looks like a regular old rb25 on the outside

[l0nestar]

¡Muy cómico!

[rb25drag]

oh man, I missed all this action.

Drag no need to hate on the poor RB, they can run reliably, actually once they do run thats when I felt it for sure. I had no issues with the setup that you have. None, that was over the course of a full year, driving 6-7k miles. And I drove it EVERYWHERE I could. She took me to to c-bus a few times which is 2.5-3 hrs away.

Its when I started dumping cash into it to go bigger is where I had issues. Its just how it goes and how it goes for a good deal of motors/cars.

I agree with everyone else who said just deleted a sensor that IS needed to fix an issue is the wrong way to go about it.

I have yet to see the reliability of the RB. It has yet to prove its self to me. But if it ever does I possibly might change my mind.

As for the sensor. Its long gone.

[rb25drag]

The reason I'm going with nissan power instead of chevy is because I don't have to crack open the block to push more than 10psi....where the chevy would break rods/pistons/etc...

And you might find it cheaper and more beneficial if you went alcohol instead of propane....

....and you won't get 1500hp out of that chevy for the same price....

Actually the LS1 has a supercharger kit that bolts on and runs over 500HP, Without touching the internals.

I have considered Alcohol, and it would prob be pretty good considering our engines like to run Hot. But Alcohol is more expensive than gas, I would get less Gas mileage out of it and its also harder to find.

Sure I could get more power out of it over propane on a stock setup. But I am able to run Alot more compression and boost on Propane. Its more Tune friendly also.

You give me 15grand that I have spent on the RB and Ill show you a 1500hp turbo charged v8 that will rock your world. It can be done very easy.

[rb25drag]

@ this magic motor nissan custom made for you that only looks like a regular old rb25 on the outside

Thanks sir

[Kansei240sx]

You give me 15grand that I have spent on the RB and Ill show you a 1500hp turbo charged v8 that will rock your world. It can be done very easy.

Yay! E-pen15 +2

[BoostFab]

looking goood. *thumbs up*

[datsun2401972]

Actually the LS1 has a supercharger kit that bolts on and runs over 500HP, Without touching the internals.

You give me 15grand that I have spent on the RB and Ill show you a 1500hp turbo charged v8 that will rock your world. It can be done very easy.

I'm sure they make a kit for 500hp, but I doubt they need 10psi+ to do it.

I get the feeling that many people on this forum can tell you it doesn't take 15grand to put an rb s13 in a 7 second 1/8 mile range.

But your right 15grand in a turbo v8 will rock my world....especially in an s13!

[240z4u]

Ya the drag cars run maps.

But when I go to the Propane here within the next month the MAFS will be elliminated. So My inlet of cold air is going to drop those intake temps without effecting the running of the car b/c of the mafs reading wrong.

Im running the z32 MAF on the Stock ECU which Darius says is wrong and won't run right. But it seems to run fine with it.

Im not sure whats so different from my setup and the rest or yours but mine seems to run different and put down alot more than yours with less boost.

I have been trying to get answers since I joined, No one can tell me why and I have been told Im wrong in many ways and on many forums.

I don't know why mine runs the way it does guys but it runs good. So I guess its just a factory freak.

Ya I know I have not got it on the Dyno. But I do have track numbers which is as far as I know or have gotten out of anyone on the board the best, running less boost. 7.80@91MPH

Everyone has called me a liar about the numbers I think it makes. But the guys who have denied me then took a ride afterwards didn't have any words to say. I have a friend, Nissan tech, 30+years old. He's built a 20+ PSI 280Z inline 6, he put down 460hp and he took a ride and says it feels about the same amount of pull on his 280Z, So we lined them up. I pulled him 1/2 car off the line and he Slowly inched beside me and we shut down at 140. So why does my motor pull like a 400+ HP motor?

Im happy with the way it runs, Just gotta get those little details worked out.

Heads up, his car is not putting down 460rwhp if you pulled on him. My freind ALSO has a turbocharged 280z that makes 460rwhp and 455ft/lbs of torque. His car runs 11.25 consistently in the quarter. If you really were a half car ahead you would be damn near in the 10s in the quarter.

Reliability? I have put at least 15k miles since 05' on my swap with two trips that were 900 miles each way. Not a hiccup. I could not ask for a more reliable swap.

I don't think my rb25det runs hot. I really don't understand what people are talking about when they say that. My z with an I6 in it used to get scalding hot under the hood. I ceramic coated my exhaust manifold before I put it back on, and it made an ENORMOUS difference in underhood temperatures!!

Evan

I can't wait to see what happens when you do the propane setup! Can you start another thread on this? I am curious to know how you make this work.
Modified by 240z4u at 7:51 AM 3/29/2008

[240z4u]

I'm sure they make a kit for 500hp, but I doubt they need 10psi+ to do it.

I get the feeling that many people on this forum can tell you it doesn't take 15grand to put an rb s13 in a 7 second 1/8 mile range.

But your right 15grand in a turbo v8 will rock my world....especially in an s13!

Agreed, I have another freind who has a 500rwhp mustang with a vortech on it. 7psi = 502 rwhp

Evan

[rb25drag]

Ya when I switch to propane Ill give you guys all the details. Video of the Dyno on Gas and the video of the dyno on propane and give you a write up of costs.

Its really a simple setup. I don't think its going to be complex at all. Im just a few months behind on getting it done. But its coming and soon hopefully.

As for the v8 turbo setups, My buddy Eric has a mustang with a Stock Bottom end 302, heads cam and a t 70 turbo pushing 590RWHP on 10lbs of boost. One of the fastest street cars i have ever ridden in.

Here is his myspace. He has a few video's of his Ride I think you will enjoy http://profile.myspace.com/ind...dc373

[240z4u]

Alright keep us updated.

Hows that radiator treating you now that its warming up outside?

Evan

[rb25drag]

Well I havent got to drive the car yet. But I have had it running, revving in the garage for over an hour and so far not a problem. I put a 170 thermostat back in it and it hasnt seen temps above that.

Im going to put my fenders back on today and hopefully a test drive.

[240z4u]

Excellent. Whats ambient temperature there?

My car gets pretty warm when its 90+ ambient temperatures and I only have one fan running. I have to switch on the 2nd one. Cruising highway speeds I have no problems.

Good luck on the test drive dude.

Evan

[rb25drag]

Ya No test drive for me, Still more problems. It never ends. So im putting the car on the back burner. I have other things I gotta do now. So The propane is going to be put on hold also.

[DJButton]

Umm, there's about 6 things I would have done completly different with your set-up, but if you like it, good for you. Anyhow, good luck getting it back on the road.

[rb25drag]

What would you have done Different?

Guys I think My alternator is my ignition problem. How many amps are the stock ones?

My buddy can get me a 200amp Alternator. But I was wondering if I really needed that much?

Here is my newest Mod, I made some Panels to cover some of my wiring, There not painted yet, but fit nice.

[l0nestar]

200A is rediculous. Are you planning on doing some welding with your alternator? You will have to be spinning your motor around 4k to to get it to produce anything near that. Stock is 85A. Just install a Qwest 130A and be done!

[Shocker]

200A is rediculous. Are you planning on doing some welding with your alternator? You will have to be spinning your motor around 4k to to get it to produce anything near that. Stock is 85A. Just install a Qwest 130A and be done!

+1 I sit at around 14.3-14.5 volts with mine.

[rb25drag]

Well the thing is the 200amp alternator is a direct fit for my setup. I have my brackets already modified for a Rb alternator and also a Ka24e. The one im looking at is a Ka alternator rewound to a 200amp out put and is 239$ wich is the cheapest I have found. They have a 150 amp also but its only 30$ cheaper.

[Carl H]

just because the alternator can put out the amperage doesnt mean the car can handle it...gotta think man the car was designed for an 80-90 amp alternator...not a 200 amp one.

[rb25drag]

I understand its not designed for that much. I have a buddy who says he can modify it to handle it. So with all my accessories, Linelock, Launch control, Electric fans, wideband 02, 6 gauges, shiftlight, SAFC, a 90 amp alternator is going to pull it?

[Shocker]

just do the quest lol, its been proven to work awesome!

[l0nestar]

Well the thing is the 200amp alternator is a direct fit for my setup. I have my brackets already modified for a Rb alternator and also a Ka24e. The one im looking at is a Ka alternator rewound to a 200amp out put and is 239$ wich is the cheapest I have found. They have a 150 amp also but its only 30$ cheaper.

150A is still overkill. My dad had his alternator re-wired for 180A (I believe) (similar to you, but he has a lot of electronics in his street rod). He tried figuring out why his car always acted like it had a generator (with lights on, and at idle, they were dim, hit 2000 RPM and they would brighten up. ) Had it tested several times and alternator was 'fine'. He was having it rebuilt and they discovered it was that high of amperage, dropped it back down to around 130A. Functioned normally ever since. He also kept killing Optima Yellow-top's.

Moral of the story: Bigger is not always better. Get a 130A Qwest alternator. Done.

[l0nestar]

Also, something to consider.

Check the price on a 93-94 Mercury Villager or Ford Aerostar or Windstar (I can't remember which :-\ Not too hip on my minivan knowledge.. ) -- they are all the same vehicle.

Some retailers charge different prices for the same part #, depending on which vehicle. I ran into this when looking up parts for my Probe. Same part would be twice the price of the MX-6; even with the same part #. Purely by application.

[240z4u]

I have had TWO rewound high amperage alternators take a crap on me. I wouldn't use one personally.

Evan

[Shocker]

Also, something to consider.

Check the price on a 93-94 Mercury Villager or Ford Aerostar or Windstar (I can't remember which :-\ Not too hip on my minivan knowledge.. ) -- they are all the same vehicle.

Some retailers charge different prices for the same part #, depending on which vehicle. I ran into this when looking up parts for my Probe. Same part would be twice the price of the MX-6; even with the same part #. Purely by application.

**** that, ebay rebuilt, $60 shipped!

[rb25drag]

Were are you guys buying the Qwest from?

[Carl H]

75$ for a new alternator shipped to me from ebizzle.

**** that, ebay rebuilt, $60 shipped!

[rb25drag]

I have a problem with my Ignition fuse blowing but it blows Random now. It was fine for 3 days and all the sudden sunday it decided to take a dump on me again. The current fuse is a 30 amp, But when it blows it like a short it will melt a 12gage wire in the matter of seconds if you jump it. But if it was a short it should do it All the time right?

I have went over Everything in the car I can't find anything wrong. But I do know my alternator is taking a crap, When the fuse it working I can start the car, Take off the Neg cable and the car almost completly dies. Which tells me I don't have enough amps. Thats why the alternator upgrade has now became a must. But could this cause the fuse to pop also?

The fuse has only blown while turning the Ignition switch on, Never while running. This is why its confusing to me.