Slightly late build thread (update: the car runs)

[Michaelmoore]

Figured out that we swapped which lines go where on the fuel rail, so tomorrow hopefully we can get it squared away before i go to work.

[Michaelmoore]

IT LIVESSSSSS!!!

As I was pulling up from school my dad had already swapped the lines and started it up, but it died as I was getting out of the car.

Turns out I hooked the coolant line that goes to the IACV into the intake. After we cleaned it all out and hooked the line up to where it needed to be it ran perfect for like 15 minutes till my dad left for work.

And now out of pure magic all of the dash lights and my power windows actually stop working without the key in the ignition like they are supposed to, does the computer have any control over that stuff?

Now my only issue are the blower motor doesn't work, my wipers don't work, my RUCAS are still on backorder, I need a tag and it needs to be insured.

[rsmithdrift]

OMG I can understand the fuel rail issue sort of... but how did you run a coolant line to the intake?? WTF?? That's kinda funny lol. Lucky you didn't ruin anything by hydro locking the engine...

And those are all just circuits. The circuite has to be complete for power to flow to them. Sadly cars are incredibly complicated with their circuits and finding the break in said circuit is very difficult because of it.. My best advice is to whip out the ohm meter and get busey finding whats faulty.

[Michaelmoore]

haha the only reason i ran it in there was because the line coincidentally ended like an inch away from the breather tube on the intake and i figured it need to be hooked to some sort of vacuum, well turns out it wasn't vacuum, but yeah luckily i didn't hydrolock it. All of my dash light problems have vanished (something that still weirds me out is that they do still happen but only right before the battery dies) but now we finally have the alternator charging the battery, and the wipers work.

Now its tailight, blower motor, an wait for my RUCAS then tag and insurance =D

[Michaelmoore]

I have been tinkering with it every day since it started, and many little things here and there have been fixed. My main issue now is that i don't think my thermostat is opening up, the upper hose is nice and hot and so is the radiator, but the lower hose is cold. My heater works and earlier the temp rose prettty high but it hit a certain point and started dropping. Now after we burped it a little it stays a little below the center on the temp gauge but the hose is still cold.

Any sugestions? Its a koyo radiator we are 99% sure all the lines are hooked up correctly now. Like I said its not overheating now but its also only 40 degrees outside.

[Buck01]

Nice build man, u dumped some major cash into it,..i did similar but i had gotten into a aciddent with mine so i had to lol, good job tho!

[Michaelmoore]

Been quite a while since I have done an update. I've mainly been busy with being out of town, work, and finishing up the most recent semester of school.

But I have spent all of my time tinkering with my toy.

Since my last post:
-LEDs in cluster, dome, courtesy and map Its almost daylight when I open my door.
-Stance rucas to match my Stance GR+ coils
-Figured out I have a very small coolant leak on one of the outlets on the block for the heater
-Got my speakers working (the speaker wires were hacked in quite a few places)
-Installed my GloShift (I know they arent $200 gauges but they work) gauge pillar and gauges (oil temp, oil press, and boost even though it isnt boosted, its there for when I am)
-put my new exhaust hangers in and now my exhaust doesnt scrape my driveway (dont know about speed bumps though)
-and my dad bought me a consult cable from emance (tested it out and it works fantastic, we figured out that my timing was at like 10-14 btdc now its 20 btdc and every once in a while fluxs down to 18, it also threw codes for my knock sensor and speed sensor)

Which btw my knock sensor is brand new, speed sensor we are unsure of though. We tried turning it with a power drill and never got the right readings. The issue with the sensor is that it works most of the time but randomly spikes up 10mph then goes down to 10mph and sits there, or it never goes past 10mph to begin with. Could the codes be stored from before i bought it and just not been cleared? I don't have a cel which is why i thought the knock sensor code was weird.


Next plans are:
-new toe arms
-wheels and tires
-alignment
-new speakers all around
-then boooooooost


And this is what I am planning wheel wise (maybe just 8s all the way around though, Im not looking for hellaflush or anything, and I dont know a lot about wheel and tire specs, i just saw this setup on another 240 with a similar setup as mine and it looked nice)
5zigen FN01R-C
F: 17x8 +25mm (235/45/17)
R: 17x9 +35mm (255/40/17)

[Michaelmoore]

So went out with my mom today and got some pictures taken of the current state of the car. I am quite satisfied right now.

[Michaelmoore]

Been quite a while since I've updated, but now that the car runs reliably and I only have a small electrial issue to figure out, so I am starting to look at the supporting mods for boost.

Gonna find a decent condition head and have it cleaned up and matched to these:
-BC 264/264 cams
-BC retainers, springs, locks, etc.
-BC .5mm oversize intake and exhaust valves
With these coming afterwards:
-Walbro 255
-550cc injectors Tomei/HKS/not sure what brand everyone likes
-tune on a spare ECU (T3/t04e, 12psi) (E-mance, JWT, or just have it dyno-tuned)
- of course the normal stuff like z32 MAF and all but everyone knows that so i won't bore you with those.

Nothing super major.
Now some questions I have, stock cam gears or aftermarket? if aftermarket will SR ones fit, can't really seem to find any KA ones.
Aftermarket turbo downpipes.... do the SRs fit KAs? I have heard yes and no.
And for the cams, they should just be plug and play right? or would it be a good idea to have them head matched to them?