Simple Amp / Sub addition to the stock Bose

[rjdmmfl1]

I'm with ya Doc, they do suck but can someone tell me where that connector is located up front? Is it behind the glovebox. I was looking at the AV FSM manual today but couldn't find where that connector is exactly located. If I did, I'd be running my LLC from up front all the way to the back.

Also, I benched tested the amp to a spare auto battery that I had laying around and still nothing. Then I found another amp that I had laying around and that powered on. Now I have to wait for a stupid RMA.

sp yeah, its the amp.... also, the harness I'm speaking of is the one that plugs directly into the factory radio in back

[dangeris]

Well here's an update. I went to Wally World today and bought a cheapo amp and hooked it up. As I suspected, it powered right up and because it was cheap, it was barely driving the subs as I expected.

So from this little experiment, I know my wiring is good and that the LLC is connected to the correct wires in the harness Thanks Doc and Apple for your word of advice and helping me troubleshoot this problem!

Now I have to call the company and either get an RMA or exchange this puppy for something else

[dangeris]

Ok,..Got my new replacement amp and while I was at it, I upgraded the amp to something better. as soon as I applied power to the amp, it powered right up! Now my music sounds fuller and with the adjustable gain control, I can adjust it bass, depending on what style I'm listening to, right from the comfort of the driver's seat!

Special thanks to Doc and Apple for helping me out!

[AppleBonker]

Special thanks to Doc and Apple for helping me out!

Doc did all the dirty work. No need to thank me.

What amp are you running? And let's get some pics when you get the chance. Glad you're happy with the upgrade!

[Viper5000]

I had to chime in on this, did anyone find out why pin 63 and 64 are different colors than what the FSM says???

[Rob.Vegan]

Doc did all the dirty work. No need to thank me.

What amp are you running? And let's get some pics when you get the chance. Glad you're happy with the upgrade!

Hey Dangeris, did you just abandon your thread, did you ever get pics ???

[dangeris]

Hey Dangeris, did you just abandon your thread, did you ever get pics ???

No, I didn't abandon the thread. I got everything installed and everything works great. I'm going to redo the LLC to an adjustable one (PAC SNI-35) I had this unit in my last install I was able to control the input of the signal going into the stock HU. Anyway here's a pic of the install. I didn't take a pic of the amp as it's mounted between the back of the enclosure and the seat. I didn't think that warranted any pics. I originally wanted to "sink" it into the trunk deck but I didn't want to remove the spare tire. So I'm thinking of another place I can install the amp.




Modified by dangeris at 8:58 AM 12/24/2008

[Rob.Vegan]

wowthat fits really nice in there.

I originally wanted to "sink" it into the trunk deck but I didn't want to remove the spare tire. So I'm thinking of another place I can install the amp.

would it be a hassle taking that out of there if you did need your spare tire ???

[mikegtr06]

wowthat fits really nice in there.

would it be a hassle taking that out of there if you did need your spare tire ???

is that the ebay box ?

[dangeris]

No that's not the ebay box. I built that box for under $40 and got all the materials from Lowes. Infact, I had that design way before that box appeared on ebay. Should have patented the freakin design.

....would it be a hassle taking that out of there if you did need your spare tire ???

well I actually thought of that and my solution to that problem was this. Where the front edge of the sub box ends, I lifted up the black trunk carpet and marked the wooden floor board. Then I removed that 1/4" floor board and cut the panel in half at the line that I made. Then I bought a 24' piano hinge and hinged the two together and slipped it back into the trunk. I put the sub enclosure back in and Voila! When I need the spare, I don't need to take out the enclosure out to do so. I just lift it up and there's more than enough room to put in and take out the spare.

[Chinaman]

so did you end up tap into the black/pink with the grey spots on it with the remote wire? or was it just the black and pink with no grey. and another question is where did you hook up the hi/low convertor up too. i was reading a couple of topics before where they just taped into the rear right speaking. the pos and neg going in the the speaker it self? sorry about the noob question i am also trying to install my system as well

[Infantry1327]

Yes you can hook the hi low converter up to the pos and neg wires in the 6x9's. As far as the remote wire, I tried the blk/pink wire and it didn't work. It would turn the amp on and off, so i am working on finding a wire I can splice on to that will work properly.

[dangeris]

Yes you can hook the hi low converter up to the pos and neg wires in the 6x9's. As far as the remote wire, I tried the blk/pink wire and it didn't work. It would turn the amp on and off, so i am working on finding a wire I can splice on to that will work properly.

If you have the Bose Premium like I do, you can not connect the LLC to the speaker wires directly. The LLC needs to be connected to the speaker wires before it goes into the amp.

As far as the remote wire, that needs to be connected to Black and Green wire (PIN60, connector B121). My amp powers on and off with the radio and not by the ignition which is what you want.

[rjdmmfl1]

If you have the Bose Premium like I do, you can not connect the LLC to the speaker wires directly. The LLC needs to be connected to the speaker wires before it goes into the amp.

As far as the remote wire, that needs to be connected to Black and Green wire (PIN60, connector B121). My amp powers on and off with the radio and not by the ignition which is what you want.

Well, not exactly... its not that you can't tap into that wire at the speakers, its just that you shouldn't! Sending an amplified signal to another amplifer is usually NOT a good idea.... luckily , the BOSE amp dosn't really produce that much power (my guess is ~ 30-40 watts per channel, if that, and looking at those thin *** 22 gauge factory wires going to the speakers, the wattage drops conserably by the time it reaches the speaker....

but, again, it is not advised to do so, and just like you Darryl, I have always advise folks on here tp try and tap the wires at the harness of the factory radio, or BEFORE going to the amplifier..

regarding the amp on wire, I know there has been controversy about that in the past... I don't know if ots because the amp on signal at the harness is not 12 volts, or what, but folks have been unsuccessful getting that to power their amps on. Its much easier with aftermarket units, but for you guys, I would suggest what Darryl said, and tap that wire.. that may be your best bet!

[Infantry1327]

Cool thanks.

I will try the blk and grn wire. I did try and tap the speaker wires before the amp at the head unit. But the subs would only play at low volumes and really sloppy. No worries thow, my next purchase will be the 505 so that should be the end of all my problems

[Infantry1327]

Just an update. The Blk/Grn wire worked perfectly. Thanks Dangeris.

[dangeris]

Glad that worked out for you Sean

When are you going to unveil your system?

[Infantry1327]

I am starting the fiberglass this weekend. Should be done probably by the end of the month if i can get some time off work. I should be ordering my head unit and some other goodies towards the end of the month as well. So I will update everything as I complete it. Just hard to find enough time during day light hours to work on everything.

[zilla19]

Well Today I ripped apart my trunk to install the low level converter (PAC-SNI-15) . I used doc's thread http://forums.altimas.org/zerothread/337113 to make the connection.

I'm about to do the same. Did you make a "T-connection" to the A/C's wires, or did you cut/splice them?

[Infantry1327]

First I just spliced them in, then switched to a T connection. I kept getting a kind of a burning smell when they where spliced in. I think it was just the electical tape heating up, but when i switched to the T connection everything was perfect.

[dangeris]

Any updates on your system Infantry? Dying to see it

[VTMike24]

So should I use Pin 63 and 64 or use the brown and yellow wires for my converter? It was asked earlier in the thread, but no one answered it.

[dangeris]

Didn't see this post VTMike..If you haven't figured this out yet, I'll post it later on tonight. ALl my notes are at home and I'm at work...supposedly working

[VTMike24]

No, still haven't got an answer yet. It is a nice day out so I am gonna try to install everything after I get off work. Thanks!

[dangeris]

Ok Mike, Looked at the LLC and I connected them to 63 thru 65Just make sure the positive of the LLC goes to 64 and 66 and the negative of the LLC goes to 63 and 65; like it says below.

PIN63 -Yellow RR LH - INPIN64 - Brown RR LH + INPIN65 - Violet RR RH - INPIN66 - Light Green RR RH + IN

Nissan may have used different color wire on PIN 63 and 64 like it did on mine but it the PINs still corresponds to the right connection, regardless of the wire color. Good Luck and let us know how you make out!

[VTMike24]

Thanks so much! I was able to get everything installed no problem!

[zilla19]

I connected everything but my sub sounds like a weak speaker rather than a sub. I tried a different amp but it's the same. Does anybody know what I did wrong?

Scosche LOC Back of the amp

Amp connections

To sub

Modified by zilla19 at 4:12 PM 1/24/2009
Modified by zilla19 at 4:13 PM 1/24/2009

[iammai]

What is the model# of your amp?

What is the model# of your sub?

The amp is set to HPF which is probably allowing only high pass frequencies. Try turning it to LPF. I could be wrong. The amp model # will allow me or one of the audio experts on here to look it up.

Providing the model# of the sub/amp will also let us check if the amp/sub are drawing/pushing the same ohms.

[dangeris]

I had the same problem before when I added a sub to my Acura CL. I hooked up the LLC and connected the RCA from that to the after market amp and there was barely any sound coming out form the sub. After rec-checking my connections, I saw that I accidentally connected the LLC to the wires that were after the stock amp.

So with that said, what system do you have currently. When I did this write up it was intended for anyone with the Premium Bose system. If you are running the Premium Bose system, then most likely the LLC is connected to wires that already are converted to a low signal. In essence, they're connected to wires that are after the stock Bose amplifier.

Double check the schematic on the FSM for your system and check that against on what you connected. let us know what you find. Good Luck!

[zilla19]

What is the model# of your amp?

What is the model# of your sub?

The amp is set to HPF which is probably allowing only high pass frequencies. Try turning it to LPF. I could be wrong. The amp model # will allow me or one of the audio experts on here to look it up.

Providing the model# of the sub/amp will also let us check if the amp/sub are drawing/pushing the same ohms.

I'll look it up and let you know. I tried all of the switches and they didn't help.

Quote »So with that said, what system do you have currently. When I did this write up it was intended for anyone with the Premium Bose system. If you are running the Premium Bose system, then most likely the LLC is connected to wires that already are converted to a low signal. In essence, they're connected to wires that are after the stock Bose amplifier.

Double check the schematic on the FSM for your system and check that against on what you connected. let us know what you find. Good Luck![/quote]I have the same Premium Bose system as you. I connected the wires to PIN 63-66 on page 169 of the AV section in FSM (same as the Pre-Bose connections that Doc mentioned on the other thread and near the beginning of this thread).