Service Engine Soon

[enzoferrari2400]

Hi everyone,
I own a 2007 Altima Coupe. The SES light on the dash came on after the fuel cap wasn't screwed on properly. I've driven the car once since I fixed the problem but the light stays on. How can I turn the light off without taking it to the dealership?
Thanks for your help, Enzo.

[DJ_B_Easy]

If the light hasnt gone off, maybe the fuel cap wasnt the issue?

[AlexN09]

The fuel cap was off on my pickup for a day and after replacing the cap it took three days for the light to turn off. Also I didn't know they made an Altima coupe in 2007.

[MetallicSlate]

You can go by auto zone and they'll pull the code and turn it off for free. However, you're coupe might be different being from an alternate universe and all...

[SanoSuKe]

I got this issue right now. I just got my engine oil changed. What do you guys mean by fuel cap exactly?

[el_blacky06]

Fuel cap where you pump gas in, if not sealed correctly it will make the SES light come on.

[mmkeller]

He must mean 2008, there was no coupe in 2007.

[beeristasty]

He must mean 2008, there was no coupe in 2007.

But they were available in the summer of 07.

[SanoSuKe]

Fuel cap where you pump gas in, if not sealed correctly it will make the SES light come on.

I sealed it today and the SES is still on.

OP did you come with any answers on this? or anyone for that matter?

[el_blacky06]

Any leakage on the exhaust or header? That also sets it off, maybe you can try reading the code from the ecu at autozone to get exactly why its setting it off.

[SanoSuKe]

Alright since OP didn't deliver... I took my car today to my friend's shop and we plugged it in. Turns out the SES light was on because of the MAF SENSOR (for those who don't know what that is, it's the sensor attached to your intake, if you have one that is). We reset it and the light is gone..for now. If it does come back then I'll put it back to stock and take it to the dealership since I'm still under warranty.

that's my update so far.

[DJ_B_Easy]

Two words Ive been typing a lot recently. IDLE RELEARN.

[SanoSuKe]

Two words Ive been typing a lot recently. IDLE RELEARN.

explain moar?

[DJ_B_Easy]

Sorry for the delay, I got tied up with being drunk for a few days.

The basic idea that was second hand engrained into my brain is that once you install an aftermarket intake and the engine is receiving more air, the air to fuel ratio is effected and will throw codes. The idle relearn adjusts the AFR to compensate for the additional air flow.

[SanoSuKe]

Sorry for the delay, I got tied up with being drunk for a few days.

The basic idea that was second hand engrained into my brain is that once you install an aftermarket intake and the engine is receiving more air, the air to fuel ratio is effected and will throw codes. The idle relearn adjusts the AFR to compensate for the additional air flow.

This is one theory we had but the light came on like .. 9 months after installing the intake. It's weird. It still didn't come again yet.

*knocks on wood*

[RicerX]

Idle Relearn is still good practice after intake installation. Whacked AFRs can cause any number of odd things to happen. Running rich is one, which negatively affects your gas mileage.

Idle Relearn only goes so far, however. If you have many other breather mods (which, with the Altima, you would have to eliminate all your cats to really need this), you need a tune to recalibrate everything. For you 2.5 guys, you actually have a way to eliminate all your cats, so if you do header, test pipe, and intake, a tune is a pretty good idea. For the 3.5 guys, there isn't anything on the market out there to eliminate all the cats unless you make custom test pipes.

[SanoSuKe]

Idle Relearn is still good practice after intake installation. Whacked AFRs can cause any number of odd things to happen. Running rich is one, which negatively affects your gas mileage.

Idle Relearn only goes so far, however. If you have many other breather mods (which, with the Altima, you would have to eliminate all your cats to really need this), you need a tune to recalibrate everything. For you 2.5 guys, you actually have a way to eliminate all your cats, so if you do header, test pipe, and intake, a tune is a pretty good idea. For the 3.5 guys, there isn't anything on the market out there to eliminate all the cats unless you make custom test pipes.

Still debating on the tune once warranty is over. I never knew they made test pipes for the A/C..then again I'm sure deleting the cat would freak the hell out of the ECU lol

[DJ_B_Easy]

^Well yeah, thats basically what he is saying. If you were to remove ALL cats and get a large increase in air moving throughout the entire system you have to tune it.

[RicerX]

For the 2.5 guys, it would be very easy to custom fabricate a test pipe if the exhaust is configured similarly to the Sentra SE-R. It would be a ton easier to go catless on a 2.5 than a 3.5.

Pretty sure an engine pull would be required to properly access everything on the 3.5. I know that's why Stillen bagged the project for the headers they were developing because it would cost nearly $1000 in labor at any shop to install them on top of ~$800-$1000 MSRP they were going to have to charge.

[SanoSuKe]

Yep. The light just came on again today..

[white midori]

oh... i have the same problem now after the car sat in garage for 4 months and battery need reboost to start ,Then the light ON. But i haven't try DJ B Easy suggest "IDLE RELEARN.", Hope it will be work... or anyone have suggestion. Thanks.

[white midori]

oh... i have the same problem now after the car sat in garage for 4 months and battery need reboost to start ,Then the light ON. But i haven't try DJ B Easy suggest "IDLE RELEARN.", Hope it will be work... or anyone have suggestion. Thanks.

Just update the light turn off after disconnect the battery for 3 days

[Rirruto]

Sorry to bump up an old thread but having the same problem with my car. SES light came on Friday morning. Checked the fuel cap and it was a bit loose so I tightened it. Not sure if it matters but my gas tank was pretty low. I've since filled it to about half but the light is still on now on Tuesday morning. How long does the light typically take to clear once the cap is tightened? 4 days seems to be a bit long and I'm getting concerned it might be something else. I tried to do the self diagnostic and pull the SES code through the procedure I found here how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset- ... 25400.html but it did not work for me. Thank you in advance for any input.

[RicerX]

Sorry to bump up an old thread but having the same problem with my car. SES light came on Friday morning. Checked the fuel cap and it was a bit loose so I tightened it. Not sure if it matters but my gas tank was pretty low. I've since filled it to about half but the light is still on now on Tuesday morning. How long does the light typically take to clear once the cap is tightened? 4 days seems to be a bit long and I'm getting concerned it might be something else. I tried to do the self diagnostic and pull the SES code through the procedure I found here how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset- ... 25400.html but it did not work for me. Thank you in advance for any input.

The manual SES code pull is pretty tricky with the pedal stuff.

Typically it takes several driving cycles for the code to reset itself. How many times and how long have you driven it across those four days?

If you get impatient and want to see if the code has officially not been triggered, you can always disconnect the negative battery terminal (for a minimum of 60 seconds) and see if the light comes on the next time you drive.

Thanks for using search and bumping the correct thread! No apologies needed - this helps us keep troubleshooting more organized and helps others easily find solutions to their problems.

[SanoSuKe]

Well I had the same issue but all I did was take my intake apart left the car for a day and put it back in lol. It still didn't come back on.

[Rirruto]

The manual SES code pull is pretty tricky with the pedal stuff.

Typically it takes several driving cycles for the code to reset itself. How many times and how long have you driven it across those four days?

If you get impatient and want to see if the code has officially not been triggered, you can always disconnect the negative battery terminal (for a minimum of 60 seconds) and see if the light comes on the next time you drive.

Thanks for using search and bumping the correct thread! No apologies needed - this helps us keep troubleshooting more organized and helps others easily find solutions to their problems.

Thanks for the quick response. I would estimate I've driven about 60 miles on about 10 occasions since Friday morning, (20 on Friday, 10 on the weekend, 20 yesterday, 10 this morning). Hopefully it clears soon. I've read as long as the light is not flashing it's not anything too serious. I am going on a little trip this weekend (about 300 miles round trip) and would hate for anything to happen on the road.

[RicerX]

Thanks for the quick response. I would estimate I've driven about 60 miles on about 10 occasions since Friday morning, (20 on Friday, 10 on the weekend, 20 yesterday, 10 this morning). Hopefully it clears soon. I've read as long as the light is not flashing it's not anything too serious. I am going on a little trip this weekend (about 300 miles round trip) and would hate for anything to happen on the road.

Yeah I would say you have gone through enough driving cycles. You have read correctly - I wouldn't worry about your 300 mile trip unless the car is stuttering or is idling oddly. You don't want to worry about some weird sensor reading that may cause a stall. Other than that, it may be a trip to advance auto parts/auto zone/wherever to get your code read with an OBD reader. It is free to do anywhere outside of a nissan dealer and we could further diagnose what it is with the code.

[Rirruto]

Yeah I would say you have gone through enough driving cycles. You have read correctly - I wouldn't worry about your 300 mile trip unless the car is stuttering or is idling oddly. You don't want to worry about some weird sensor reading that may cause a stall. Other than that, it may be a trip to advance auto parts/auto zone/wherever to get your code read with an OBD reader. It is free to do anywhere outside of a nissan dealer and we could further diagnose what it is with the code.

Not sure if I am reading this correctly, Autozone will read the code for me free of charge but Nissan Service charges for this? That's sad. I have spent my fair share of money on my regular maintenance there. Luckily, I have an Autozone pretty close to my office, I'll see what they say. Thank you again.

[Rirruto]

Stopped by Autozone and the error was P0456 which would be Evaporative Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected according to this site. http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0456_nissan.html

So it looks like it could still be the gas cap even though I've tightened it multiple times or it could be something else so I'm back to square one.

[RicerX]

Yup - that's related to the gas cap to some degree for sure. I would look for an OEM replacement just in case something happened to the gasket on it. Shouldn't be terribly expensive and that way you can at least rule that one out.

The Evap canister is just below the fuel neck on the inside of the car and there is a sensor in there, I believe, which would trigger the code if the gas cap (or something up there) was leaking. I wouldn't think it would be the PVCV as that is very uncommon.