About the car:
I purchased the car from my friend who put coil overs on it, welded the diff, swapped in a manual transmission, had a one piece drive line installed and replaced the clutched fan with an altima fan. It also came with a cold air intake. It was primered gray when I bought it.
I tested the psi across all four cylinders and got within a few psi of 170 on all of them.
I think starting life paired with an automatic transmission is the reason why this motor is so strong still at 200K miles. So far I’ve:
• replaced the clutch twice (the second time going with a pressure plate with more clamping force than stock and a kevlar disc)
• Installed a drift e-brake knob
• Installed a knock off race seat
• Installed a godspeed SR20 radiator with dual electric fans (this required some interesting radiator hose work)
• Installed an S13 3 inch cat back exhaust (still need to go to the muffler shop and have them make some minor bends to the pipe, but it works)
• Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders
• installed the JGS urethane transmission mount
• Made and installed flexane motor mounts that are slightly shorter than stock to drop the motor a tad (they are bolted to the brackets coming off of the motor, but I haven’t dropped the motor down yet),
• Had an oil return bung welded into my oil pan in preparation for going KA-T
• Installed S13 PSM SAK knuckles (the original SAK) and reinforced arms from an S13.
• Swapped on some aftermarket S13 five lug hubs I just happened to have.
• Installed S13 Tien coil overs
I plan to detail some of the mods in later posts.
In case you hadn’t noticed I have an S13 that I raped for the S14 cause
, some day I will build that car too. It has a lot going for it still: LS1 crossmemeber, BAR sticker to be CA smog legal with an ls1 
, modded steering rack to hook to LS1 power steering, fully adjustable rear suspension, Johnny Fraz Power Bar, J30 rear end and axles, and a wire tuck with wiring mods to accomadate the LS1 ecu, with some sick a** super deep dish 18” SSR Vienna Krieses in the rear. 
I hit the wall with my front end at Infineon and then my wife looped the car into another on the street damaging the front end of both cars.
As a result I have replaced the headlights, corners, bumper and fenders with some cheap craigslist replacements and then painted the car black.Future plans include adjustable TC rods, adjustable rear arms, TC rod bracket power brace, Strut bar, roll cage, and KA-T (for which I have about half of what I need so far). I’m still undecided about the next step for my front end. Thinking about sending in the S14 knux I got sitting around to PSM and having stock S14 arms reinforced with COR TC rods and sway bar. Right now I’m waiting on my Ikeya Inner tie rods, steering rack spacers, and steering rack eccentric bushing from PSM (they should be here any day).
I have new moog S14 outers and Energy suspension sway bar bushes with new end links ready to go on. So I’ll be headed off to the alignment shop soon. Here are my understandings of caster and king pin inclination to help explain my reasoning for how I want to set up my car.
Caster is the angle of the lower ball joint pivot to upper ball joint/strut pivot in a front to back orientation (visually seen from the side view) vs a line running vertically through the lower ball joint pivot. Positive caster is when the upper pivot point is angled more toward the rear of the car. Positive caster adds negative camber on the outside wheel during a turn to compensate for body roll maintaining tire contact with the road (great for grip). In counter steer during a drift the tire that determines your direction is actually the inside tire, which will undergo positive camber change with positive caster. This can reduce front grip while counter steering. Positive caster also helps to center the wheel because it places the point where the steering axis hits the ground (the Dave point) in front of the contact patch of the tire. More positive caster will make the distance between the contact patch and the Dave point longer creating a longer moment arm. The longer the moment arm the more self aligning torque there will be. Caster will make the car want to counter steer during over steer. It would seem to me, though, that there is a point at which the direction of the tire is so different than front of the car (Dave point) that caster is no longer pulling your wheels toward lock.
King Pin Inclination Angle is the angle of the lower ball joint pivot to upper ball joint/strut pivot in a side to side orientation (visually seen from the front view) vs. a line running vertically through the lower ball joint pivot. The top pivot points are always closer to the middle of the car than the bottom. This angle makes the spindle follow an upside u with the apex being when the wheel is centered. The path of the KPA makes the wheel want to positive camber in both directions (offset on the outside wheel by caster and exacerbated on the inside wheel by caster). It also lifts the body by pushing the wheel down in both directions. The car’s weight will want to keep the spindle at the apex or centered. This creates self-centering, but does not induce counter steer during over steer.
With my S13 arms on an S14 I am reducing the KPA and static negative camber (all other adjustments remaining the same) as I am pulling the lower ball joint pivot point toward the center of the car. I know I need some caster (I’ve read don’t go below 6.5*), but I think by reducing it along with reducing the KPA I will be flattening my inside wheel out at full lock and providing what I believe will be some slight but needed forward movement of the wheel which will hopefully provide enough clearance between the rear of my inside wheel at lock and the fender well after some BFH work.
I will be running 15-20mm of wheel spacers on each side (ends up putting my wheel out 8-13 mm on each side as track width is reduced 7mm each side by the arms). The jacking effects of the KPA on the car would seem to me to be exaggerated by spacers, reducing the KPA should offset this to a degree.
I plan to run my coil over top hats skewed so that as I gain negative camber (and increase my KPA) I lose positive caster, with the top of the coil over as far inward and forward as possible (I believe putting it very close to stock with the decreased track). My TC rods are stock for the time being so I will not be adjusting caster with them. My Tien coil overs have camber adjustability, so I’m hoping that I can achieve my static camber goals. I’m thinking about 4-4.5* of camber which from what I can tell is toward the useable heavy end for drifting. I’m also thinking that this will help reduce under steer as I won’t be gaining as much camber during a turn on my outside wheel with reduced caster.
I know that toe-in decreases Ackerman and I’m pretty sure increases turn in response. I already have reduced Ackerman with my knuckles. I’ve heard some people run a little toe out, but I’m not sure the reason why. I've read that Dan at PSM runs lower than stock caster and likes zero toe.
I'm probably going to maintain the current height, until I can get RC adjusted knuckles and subframe risers.
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on the alignment or on other parts of the car as well.
and Installed the steering rack eccentric bushings, which then allowed me to drop my motor down for the last time. I then installed the sway bar with the new urethane bushings and the tie rods and got them pretty close to aligned. That's as far as I got before I had to get ready to go to the Giants game. 
I won't be buying cheap car parts on ebay anymore. The springs on the disc stuck out too far and the pressure plate tangs were contacting the metal plate that cover the springs on the disc. You can see the wear line on the inside of the tangs and you can see the marks that were made on the clutch disc spring cover.
I have the beer cups, allthread and other hardware ready to go.
(need to get my window sticker before I do too much driving) and everything felt great. Things are much firmer than with the stock (and I'm sure tired) mounts; my shifter used to be all over the place and now it doesn't seem to move at all. There is definitely some engine noise and vibration at idle, but it's not bad and it smoothes out as the rpms pick up. There is about 3/4 of an inch between the oil pan and steering rack, which seems decent. I'm sure it will settle a little more, but I can't imagine it will drop too low. From what I can tell the engine is sitting just a little lower than stock, but I honestly can't tell. I should have documented the distance between the rack and oil pan with the stock mounts in. If somebody would do that I would appreciate it.
) against fraying of the header wrap. You can see the back up nut pretty good in this shot. I had the extra full size nuts and plenty of thread, so I just used them. Jam nuts would probably be a better solution here. These are important as you can't torque the motor mount nuts too hard (the flexane will just continue to compress) and as such the back up nuts are needed to lock the nuts in place. I just typed nuts way too many times.
