S13 gauges/cluster not working??

[compactfean]

Also how are you using the jumper wire? If you didn't cut the green wire and test it directly to the cluster than what your doing is powering that whole wire which is most likely shorted and caused your power failure to the cluster in the first place. Cut the green wire and red/black wire and use the jumper straight to the cluster. Remember clock is constant and ign is with key on. Your stereo has both.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

well I already tested the ground it definitly doesn't have power and when I looked for continuity it reads 0.01ohms. but i'll check for continuity on the green wire.

Im not able to use the jumper wire very well ,I would have to rig it a little better to use it permenantly for power. But the clock works when i apply 12v to the red/black, And dummy lights ( red lights + brake) work when it has 12v on the green,So I assume that IF I CAN get power to the harness again everything should work.

But please continue I love learning about wiring/electrical theory.

[compactfean]

Well permanently wire the clock to memory wire on stereo and permanently wire green wire to key on power to stereo and let me know which gauges don't work after that.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

OK it will take some time but I will.
How do I test the tachometer/Rev Thats what I need the most ( due to new clutch )

[compactfean]

This is where the other wires come in. The engine wiring harness. Right at the ecu has a plug that comes off of it. Dohc should be a brown plug containing a yellow /green wire, yellow /red wire, blue/black wire and some others. If uncutand stock you should be able to just plug it in. The female part it plugs into is part of the dash harness that is easiest to get to with the glove box removed. Let me know if its plugged in.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Yes its plugged in ,I know the brown plug your talking about without even looking at it,its pristine condition. I replaced all the engine bay harnesses. just not the dash and body harnesses.

[compactfean]

Well the yellow green wire you have to check continuity from that plug to the plug on the gauge cluster behind the fuel gauge (not sure which one, there are two and both go to speedo gauge. Do the same for the yellow /red wire which on the cluster is the middle plug. If you don't. Have continuity run your own wires. Btw yellow /red is tachometer. Do the same for blue/black wire which is the same plug as ign wire on cluste. Blue black is coolant gauge which if you can't get to work you can literally run that wire straight from gauge cluster to single prong coolant temp sensor

[compactfean]

Before going that far give it some power and see what gauges work first.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Do you know a good spot to jump the 12v constant too, Im not sure where I should conncet it to so that I can power the whole harness. Should I jump it to the Green wire, you said thats what powers everything else correct. Im trying to get everything ready for my days off( Fri+Sat).

[compactfean]

I think the best places to splice into are the stereo wires. Cut the red /black wire at the cluster. And butt connect a new wire that runs to the yellow wire on your stereo and splice. Do the same thing with the green wire but splice that one with the red wire at the stereo. The green wire is what gives power to all your gauges. The red/black only powers the clock which has to have 12v constant, otherwise your time will never be right. If cutting the wires makes you nervous just leave enough wire on both ends to put it back to stock if needed.

[sabretooth91]

I'm experiencing something similar. When I turn the car on, the tach goes right to 1krpm. I also have other things messed up, but they're more cosmetic. Oh, also, the HUD doesn't display anything. Anyone know where I should start poking around?

[compactfean]

Your tach goes to 1k with the car not running? If its doing that than its receiving signal from somewhere its not supposed to. I would run its own wire from ecu to cluster to eliminate any signals from elsewhere. As far as the Hud unit someone on here has a write up on some sort of resistor on its circuit board that goes out on those.

[sabretooth91]

I will try running that wire. Could you please post a link to that thread? I'd love to see it! I do feel comfortable messing around at the circuit level. Point me in the right direction, and I can debug it! Thanks a million.

[compactfean]

Its in the. "How to repair digital speedometer with hud". I post links on my phone but if you Google. "240sx hud repair " it pops right up.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

Ok so I noticed my cd players 12v constant/Memory wire doesnt work. The kids before me had the constant ran to the acc/ignition so getting the clock to work is out of the question for now.
Today my goal is to get that Tach working. First I have to test and make sure the tach will work while the car is running and jump the ingnition/acc wire to the green wire and see if it works before I go cutting anything.
BRB with results

[compactfean]

Screw it, a clock isn't. That important anyway. One less thing to kill your battery.

[ShouldaHadaV8]

TACH WORKS, GAS WORKS, DUMMY LIGHTS WORK, ( I still need a new speed sensor )
Thanks Compactfean, now I can enjoy driving my car finally, and break in this clutch.

[compactfean]

How about temp gauge? That one is just too easy to skip....good job man!

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I didn't run the car long enough to see because I knew I Could straight wire it...lols

[SilvyInside]

revivded

did a google search and came across this.
Im a little lost.
could yall walk me thru this? thanks a ton!!!!!

[SilvyInside]

Ok so I noticed my cd players 12v constant/Memory wire doesnt work. The kids before me had the constant ran to the acc/ignition so getting the clock to work is out of the question for now.
Today my goal is to get that Tach working. First I have to test and make sure the tach will work while the car is running and jump the ingnition/acc wire to the green wire and see if it works before I go cutting anything.
BRB with results

this seemed liek the step that fixed it, could yall go into detail? thanks!

[BCs300z]

To answer your question:

In a nutshell, the guy didn't have any 12V power getting to the cluster. So he hacked into the head unit's power wire and ran it to the cluster. There are two power wires to consider; the switched and the constant. The constant is for the clock and the switched is for the cluster gauges. Once he ran that, he was g2g. I have quoted the post that best describes the solution. Go back through and find the locations of said wires in their respective plugs. You'll be good to go.

I think the best places to splice into are the stereo wires. Cut the red /black wire at the cluster. And butt connect a new wire that runs to the yellow wire on your stereo and splice. Do the same thing with the green wire but splice that one with the red wire at the stereo. The green wire is what gives power to all your gauges. The red/black only powers the clock which has to have 12v constant, otherwise your time will never be right. If cutting the wires makes you nervous just leave enough wire on both ends to put it back to stock if needed.

[compactfean]

post6108603.html?hilit=How%20to%20fix%2 ... e#p6108603

This is a little mini wright up I did after helping out shouldahadav8. Let me know what your not clear on and we can back track.

[SilvyInside]

So im going to have to remove the cluster huh? deng..heard it's alot of work.
Well, thanks, you peeps are awesome. Ill see what I can do.

another note..my head lights get whacky. they go up and down, but I can never make them go down. I'm guessing doing this will prob fix that issue too?

[compactfean]

Completely different circuit. If you are having headlight issues I would check to see what your battery voltage is under a load. Turn stereo, heater, headlights etc on and if voltage drops below like 13 v you will need to get a new alternator. I know it sounds crazy but the headlight system doesn't like to opperate properly without the proper voltage. To pull the cluster its actually very easy, remove knee bolster, remove, outer plastic to steering column, lower steering rack (there are 2 bolts that hold it up) and the last part is the plastic in front of the cluster...... Then the cluster itself is only three screws. Id you are having funky electrical problems I always recommend checking the harness in the fender wells on both sides for damage, and also the grounds.

[SilvyInside]

thanks, will check and work on it asap! if I run into problems, Ill be right back here. Which I prob will haha.

[SilvyInside]

I have to leave the battery on while doing this right?
Sorry, my electrical skills are little to none. haha

and ive done one splice my whole life..

[SilvyInside]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj7dEVYO8fU

im guessing use this technique

[SilvyInside]

so..

1. Find radio wire
2. find "IGN" wire? (where is this located)
3. splice.
4.done

correct?

[compactfean]

My first question is are you having the same exact symptoms? First thing I would do is check all your fuses by the driver side kick panel. if all are good and gauges still weren't working then its time to tear in to it and do some testing. Don't just go splicing, if that is not your problem. You can leave the battery connected. And yes that is one way to splice, also you can snip the wire shove the regular wire and the wire you are going to run, into one end, and shove the other party you shipped into the other end. My best suggestion would be to do a western union solder joint with the spliced wire added, but if you don't know how to solder you can make a worse connection then a butt connector or splice.