mdb007 wrote:It seems like you need to have dash cam to prove what the car is doing and maybe have mounted on steering column pointing at tach. yeah they all say we can't find an issue as they did with mine. All I know is I am done with Nissan. When my maxima is done I am going back to an accord had one before which was almost trouble free.

I tried using the video technique, and the service rep told me that it won't help them cuz they want the issue to come up while THEIR technician is driving the vehicle. Such BS.

I had an Accord Sport before I bought this '17 Rogue and I'm starting to regret it everyday now. Considering to take a $5k hit and move back to Honda.

Death_Metaller, you don't have a 6spd. You have a CVT. I'm not trying to be sarcastic there, but proper terminology is key, especially when trying to work with service folks.

I hear you with your frustration. That's the way it is in the industry. Your vehicle can loose fluids, make noises and have weird smells. If the service folks can't find a trouble code, can't find something leaking or an obvious worn or failed part, they have to move on unless they're going to get paid to dig further into a potential problem.

Given you've had this noise, this long and nothing has failed and no trouble codes, it may not be associated with the CVT at all. Could be another rotating element on the engine.

Hi, does anyone know what is causing this high pitch sound when depressing the accelerator in any gear (P, N, D), it happens intermittently and does not affect the driving experience except that its annoying. Thanks and more power!

Nissan Xtrail/Rogue 2G/T32
13T kilometers
4x2 CVT

https://youtu.be/4lrVZUDugKc

@usafrescue any update?

new youtube CVT video.

Great news again
The Rogue was at the dealer getting new fog lights which is not covered under warranty "apparently condensation is normal" WTF NISSAN
Now After inspecting the car before returning it to me they saw some codes with the trans after the new update and it will need to be replaced again
By again i mean the engine and trans was replaced last time after weird knocking

Hi Daryl,

Sent you a PM.

darylzero wrote:@usafrescue any update?

new youtube CVT video.

luizffgarcia wrote:Hi, sorry i did not know if this was the correct place as i am not sure if it is cvt related.

Yes i have read and searched this entire thread, i still have no answer for my problem, seems like the noises related here are different than mine.

Plus, in my case the dealership says the noise is not a problem which i have trouble believing.

Still hoping for some help with this noise...

Question about the Nissan "beehive" or Foster's Can Cooler Assembly and the Nissan Transmission Radiator - what size are the fittings? I want to buy the right size hose and SS hose clamps -
Thanks

luizffgarcia wrote: ↑

Tue May 30, 2017 6:18 am

Hi guys, maybe you can help me out, my Rogue have a very specific noise, it only happens around 2900 rpm.

I took it to the dealership and they say this is just the cvt working and there is nothing wrong???? Have any of you ever notice this in your cars?

I am not able to post URLs, probably because i am a new forum member, but if you could please type "Rogue whining sound certain RPM youtube" in google, its the very first video listed.

Thanks for the help

luizffgarcia wrote: ↑

Tue May 30, 2017 2:59 pm

Hi, sorry i did not know if this was the correct place as i am not sure if it is cvt related.

Yes i have read and searched this entire thread, i still have no answer for my problem, seems like the noises related here are different than mine.

Plus, in my case the dealership says the noise is not a problem which i have trouble believing.

Searched the forum and found no results or conclusions. Anyone experienced this problem too? Just want to know how long she has.

Guys and gals I have a 2013 Sentra and have replaced the cvt already once with a unit that only had 3 thousand miles a year ago. Already it's making noise again, I have seen the six cooler and it's a great idea but my question is in order to fit the aux cooler I have to get the oem cooler with the 4 ports to run it and I believe the 2013 Sentra oem cooler is different? Where can I find the the 4 port style for the 2013 Sentra ? Please help I am a student that has spent money that I don't have on a new unit and I don't want to do again

I read through this whole thread waiting for UsafRescue to give us his results and...nothing? This is like reading a mystery novel and someone ripped the last chapter out of the book. Anyone got any updates on what happened with his work?

Had my CVT fluid changed a few weeks ago at the dealer and the service department offered to sell me a "more accurate" replacement dipstick that Nissan has issued for our vehicles for $21. I declined since I don't intend to do anything with the CVT fluid on my own, but had to wonder what sort of company acknowledges that they have a faulty part and then wants you to pay for it? In any case, I thought I'd mention it here for those who do change or check their own CVT fluid.

The service guy also admitted that that testing the CVT fluid with the Consult tool is basically a waste of money because it's too difficult to get the fluid to the exact right conditions for the test to be accurate. They charge about $100 for the test and $200 to swap the fluid, so I figured if you're getting up in miles and approaching the end of the extended warranty, like I am, you might as well just get the fluid replaced.

Hoping I can get some input on a recurring issue for my 2011 Nissan Altima Hybrid, 120k miles. Keeps throwing limp mode and shutting down the engine after I hit about 60 mph.

A while ago, a passenger of mine plugged his laptop into my cigarette lighter. It triggered limp mode after a few minutes. Mechanic reset it,
but it came back a week later any time the car went over 60 MPH.

My new hybrid specialist, who's very thorough, ran diagnostics and said the engine code it's throwing points to a possible transmission failure. The code is P0A94 - DC/DC converter performance/Boost converter. They said it's unrelated to the laptop plugging in (I assume that drew too much current) and it's coincidence that the transmission is likely going out at the same time. I drive passengers and have driven the car harder than most would.

The problem is the subcode won't throw, and they say it's the -127 subcode that definitively points to the transmission as failing. I have a list of all the other subcodes if it would help. The mechanic is not willing to offer their parts/labor warranty on a transmission replacement without throwing getting the subcode to be sure of the issue, but they say in their experience, this is the part that's failing when the parent code is thrown and the ICE shuts down.

After reading the OP, I wonder if it's possibly a fluid level issue, whereby the heat is causing aeration; one of the mechanics from the specialist mentioned overheating. I'd rather not drop the $5,000+ on a new transmission if it's something less serious.

Thoughts?

General question... if I have the dealer install the external CVT cooler on my 2013 Rogue, and then the CVT should ever have to be replaced at a later date, will the presence of the cooler affect the procedure for replacing the CVT at that time?

Does the cooler actually attach directly to the transmission or is it more near the radiator?

In reference to fluid level (see this thread: post6753507.html ) does the cooler increase total CVT fluid capacity? Does it change the amount needed for a simple drain-and-refill?

I'm presuming the desired fluid level will still be exactly in the middle of the cross hatch area on the dipstick? (as illustrated on the above thread)

If you (or $tealer) add an outboard transmission cooler (which is nothing more, than a small extra radiator) it needs to be filled with fluid.
So, YES the system will need a little more fluid.
At a pure guess, somewhere between 8oz and a quart, my guess is a pint or so, including filling the lines and/or hoses leading from current OEM cooler (which is part of the radiator) and the new add-on part.

As to dipstick and measuring how much fluid is in the system, unless they mount the cooler in some weird high spot (as in: the roof) the dipstick should remain a reliable tool for checking whether you have too little or too much fluid in the system.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.