Same thing here. I live in Southern Cali. Bought my Rogue'08 in 2011. My transmission was replaced twice, in 2011 and 2013.Armandos70 wrote:hey fellas I have a 2010 Rogue with obviously CVT problems.
I live in Vegas so its pretty hot here.
I had my CVT replace December (2013) and Aug (2014).
Now it seems like its failing again!
legally what are my options now since it seems like its an ongoing problem?
I know it cant be consider a lemon anymore since its 4 years old but can I do?
The car is under warranty 10years/120,000 or somthing like that so its no cost to me to have the CVT replace
The OEM Nissan CVT fluid NS-2 should be a light, translucent green color. That's assuming it's new and right out of the bottle.LucasM wrote:Also does anyone know what color the CVT fluid is supposed to be? the dipstick displays a Red ATF fluid, is that the right color of the NS-2 fluid?
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Also, in case anyone is wondering- NS-3 CVT fluid is backwards compatible with NS-2, but not the other way around.
I've seen this posted several times online, but I've recently asked several Nissan dealerships about this and they've told me the fluid is not backwards compatible. Would you happen to have a source?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Just a heads up, NS-3 CVT fluid is backwards compatible with previous generation CVTs, but you can't use NS-2 in vehicles that require NS-3.
Kindly tell me Ddflosrt, exactly HOW I can use a refractometer to measure the coolant/water mixing ratio for -75 degrees. ThanksDdflosrt wrote:I'm gonna start off saying that I work at a Nissan dealership and I'm gonna explain what I see on a daily basis and I will give you input from a dealer perspective. Fail safe happens when the transmission overheats. That's what it's designed to do. Cvt fluid level is a huge factor. I don't know if this has been covered but there is a special way to check the fluid. We use consult 3 and monitor a temp count. After the temp count is where it should be the fluid is set. The fluid is not set at the full mark though. If its set there it's overfull and will cause it to whine and go into fail safe. Usually when it whines it's because the fluid is aerated. The fluid is usually set in the middle of the crosshatch marks to 3/4 depending on fluid temp. This is why we see so many people with transmissions that are over full. Coolant protection is also a factor. There are tools out there to check freeze protection. Nissan recommends -34 degrees for proper cooling of the transmission. I seen some overheat at -48 degrees. I live in Colorado so it usually doesn't get that hot. The hotter the climate the easier the transmission will overheat if the coolant protection isn't set right. If your doing it yourself try to mix the coolant and water to -25 degrees. That would be more ideal. Seems to cool a lot better. And so everyone knows This is for all cvt equipped nissans. Rogues aren't the only one with these issues. Altimas and sentras have the same issues. Now if anyone has been in a front end collision And the radiator replaced make sure it's a Nissan radiator. Here is an example. Customer came in had the transmission replaced 30k miles ago. Transmission kept going into fail safe and whining. Level was good on the transmission but coolant protection was off. Set freeze protection where it should be and took on a long test drive. Same issue. Found out that it was in a front end collision 6 months earlier and a aftermarket radiator installed. Aftermarket radiators don't cool as well as oem ones. We replaced with a Nissan radiator and problem never came back. Now I have a 2005 Nissan altima. You better believe if my radiator cracks I will probably replace it with a aftermarket radiator because I don't have a cvt transmission. These transmission are so sensitive to heat its crazy. Now there are always times that it may need a transmission and if that's the case then it will be replaced. Usually when this happens a check engine light comes on or there are some codes stored In the ECM.
Now I want to talk about aftermarket fluids. Don't use them. There are some fluids out there that are suppose to be compatible but I wouldn't trust it. Talking to some of the engineers I have talk to said these aftermarket fluids Dont have the same qualitys and will cause the transmissions to overheat and or damage it. Plus at my dealership if you have different fluid and a transmssin concern you can kiss that warranty goodbye. Now I know people think that most dealerships think of ways to get out of warranty repairs. Well that's not all true. There are def some out there though. I get paid for warranty work. If I could replace a transmission daily under warranty I would. Thats how we get paid. Now nissans calls these things back to inspect to see what has failed. . If you cover something under warranty and Nissan calls it back then it had better have some sort of failure. If nissans finds out that it not they kindly send it back to us and charge us for the repair. It's really s*** sometimes even when it's Nissan fault. I see a lot of chrome pieces have tiny rust spots on them on a lot of armadas and pathfinders and Nissan won't warranty it. Nissan has charge the dealership I work for numerous times stating that it's not a defect when it clearly is. What I'm trying to say is that not all dealerships are trying to get out of warranty work. We do however have to protect ourselves so we don't get charged back for repairs. I hope the people on these boards can find trustworthy dealerships. From hearing some the of the stories on here it's no wonder why dealerships have bad names. In the meantime if anyone has questions own anything feel free to message me anytime.
I'll let someone with more knowledge of this answer your questions, but a quick check of that code is not good.scuba00 wrote:I too am now joining the CVT problem fun. I have a 2010 Nissan Sentra SR with 144k miles on it. In May 2014 it first went into fail-safe mode on a trip to Ohio from NC. We were somewhere in the mountains and it started doing the thing where it won't go above 60-70mph and at very low RPM's. I didn't think much of it back then as we were driving mountainous roads and such. Over the past year it has done this now on almost every road trip longer than 1hr or so, where it goes into fail-safe mode. The most recent road trip threw a check engine light while we driving in fail safe mode. I was just trying to limp the car home so it could cool off and maybe it went too far, not sure. The code was P0744, TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid valve fault with probable causes as follows: low fluid level, open/short circuit, poor connection, failed solenoid. When the light came on the car had significantly reduced torque/speed, but once I got home and the car cooled off, again it was fine. I checked fluid and it seemed a little low so I added some fluid (maybe the wrong move from what I've read on here, I'm considering taking some fluid back out). I took the car to the Nissan dealer and to a transmission shop and told them what code I had and they both instantly just said, replace the transmission for $4,000. They didn't want to hear much about my research about overheating transmissions, fail-safe mode, and everything else I've read in this thread. I was considering changing the fluid and filter myself to see if this helps, but the more I read the less I know which direction to go. The very first post on here says to use only Nissan CVT fluid. I'm not even sure I can buy it from them without letting them change it for me. Also what about the filter in the transmission? Do people just not change those anymore? Also I've read that when you have transmission issues, sometimes changing the fluid can make it worse. And then there's the coolant issue, with maybe I should change the coolant in the car to see if it help's or to add an extra cooler for the transmission as someone mentioned here. The car seems to be working fine now on short trips (1hr or less) and the check engine light was cleared and has not returned yet, which is good news I guess. I just paid this car off less than two weeks ago and recently got the title in the mail...go figure right? Any advice, guidance, experience fixing this issue would be great.
From that it sounds like a mechanical issue and the trans is toast, especially if Nissan said to replace it.When the a transmission solenoid is working intermittent, in most cases the problem is not the electrical part of the solenoid; the problem is foreign material obstructing the mechanical function of the solenoid or the flow of the fluid through the transmission valve body.
I would change the fluid since it overheated on few occasions and fluid probably smells burnt. Do a drain and fill so it's only half of the fluid and you are not changing it drastically. The cooler kit which includes a mini-radiator for the trans fluid will help with the overheating issue. I installed it myself. It was not too bad. It took me 4 hours to install it the first time but with proper guide, I can probably knock it off in 2 hours or less.scuba00 wrote:The code came on after it was already in fail-safe mode, so maybe I overdid it trying to limp it home? Everyone keeps saying new transmission, but until it won't go anymore I am not buying into that just yet. I think it probably threw a code because the transmission/fluid was overly hot and tricked the computer into thinking it was something else. From what I've read if that code was the real problem I would be sitting on the side of the road somewhere calling AAA. Let's hope that code doesn't reappear again :-). I guess from doing some more research I need to install the service kit cooler assembly.
That is correct. Some member even added another radiator in series with the engine coolant and that didn't help. Which leads me to believe that coolant mixture really doesn't contribute much to cooling the transmission fluid. Messing with the coolant/water mixture is really not worth the time.scuba00 wrote:Thanks for the feedback. It sounds like only about 3-4 quarts or so will come out through the drain plug which is about half. I will look into the cooler kit. I called Nissan about trying to get one of these and the guy had no idea what I was talking about so I told him to go read NTB13095 for himself. I guess if you add the cooler kit there's no use in going and changing out the coolant as previously discussed in this thread?
CVT is being relaced under an extended warranty I purchased.CapeCodChips wrote:2014 Rogue 63,000 miles. CVT just went, at the dealership now getting replaced.
Definitely a heating problem, the 2 tmes it went into safe mode were during extensive stop and go driving.
In response to CapeCodChips and Shoeless356, I bought a 2013 Rogue. It has 73,000 miles on it. Several times over the past few months, in warm weather stop and go driving after being on the road for an hour or so, it gas gotten sluggish in its response to acceleration. Each time it has been near the end of my drive and each time the issue was gone when I got back in my car later. Today, after an hour drive on a 90 degree day, I got into a traffic jam. About 20 minutes in, the sluggishness Returned. About 10 minutes of that the whine came and it wouldn't want to shift. I found a Nissan dealer 2 miles away and drive there at 15mph. They checked it out and told me I needed a new transmission at $3800. However, while sitting in the waiting room, I discovered this post. I decided to take my car for a ride after my three hour wait. I drove about 100 miles with no issues. The Rogue has had a chance to cool down and the temp had droped to about 80 degrees. Moreover, there was no stop and go driving. My next step is to flush the transmission and see if fresh fluid solves the issue. If not, in considering an aftermarket external transmission cooler.Shoeless356 wrote:Interesting. Thank you for your story. It definitely seems like a cooling issue. I am very tempted to just pick it up from the mechanic and see if it drives okay and SELL THE STUPID THING. So sad because otherwise we love the car!