RB27 Tuning Update! Need Help.... Issues stilll...

[240z4u]

Darius, I was not speculating the fuel to be the cause of power loss so much as just a problem to help troubleshoot.

Where is the muffler mounted? Up under the car? I would think it would sound different if the exhaust collapsed. I would imagine it would have to be pretty far upstream to burn out the guts.

Your manifold was glowing red? What did your EGTs look like, not sure if you mentioned that.

Evan

Man, would that be something if you melted a muffler LOL.

[Shocker]

Darius, I was not speculating the fuel to be the cause of power loss so much as just a problem to help troubleshoot.

Where is the muffler mounted? Up under the car? I would think it would sound different if the exhaust collapsed. I would imagine it would have to be pretty far upstream to burn out the guts.

Your manifold was glowing red? What did your EGTs look like, not sure if you mentioned that.

Evan

Man, would that be something if you melted a muffler LOL.

No kidding lol, EGT's no idea, don't have a gauge. Logan (my tuner) said my manifold was not unusual for a big turbo car. But there is a "bullet" something like that, summit muffler under like my seat, then the ebay fart can out back.

My bumper is melting, so the **** is very hot. Not to mention she is a huge flame thrower now. On the freeway the other night, my buddies following me said one lasted about 15-20 seconds coming down engine braking after a little pull to my 4500 lol after blowing 5-6 footers every shift. She is rich.

I'm going to inspect here in less than an hour. I'd **** myself if I did melt a muffler. The exhaust is heat wrapped now up until the first muffler so the heat is staying in the pipes more than before possibly just making EVERYThing that much hotter inside.

[Shocker]

Ok I just got done checking my exhaust, the rear ebay canister is fine, the middle straight through muffler I cant see, the piping is bent right before it... so im going to email the company who made it to see if they have ever seen failure in one.

I started over compressing a valve spring (longer one) exhaust? I compressed and decompressed it about 10 times in a row with no sign of a change in it. So right now I have it pined compressed and I will check it later for fatigue.

[ralphie!]

sounds alot like flow restriction in either the ex. or some where between the piping.

check for flow i noticed you said it was glowing red. to me even on a big turbo car that seems unusual. Where r u spooling 18 pounds at? cause I would imagine that would be rather low with the higher compression and more litters. And it makes more sence that it would be a flow problem. Then a fuel problem.

Where r u pulling ur boost reading from. Correct me if im wrong but if say the inter cooler is melted or clogged, but is still flowing enough air to run it will still show u 18psi even if its only flowing half the air. I could be wrong.

another thing im thinking it might be is ur simply not flowing enough ex. I know when we tuned my car and I upgraded from a 3 inch turbo back to a 4 inch. My car boosted 20 lbs 1500 rpm sooner. So I would check flow and try and find out why ur running so damn hot

[tofstr32gtr]

You first need to get rid of the two fpr's. Your problem started after that correct? The glowing exhaust manifold is from a lack of timing. You need to add some timing to that thing.

[gawdzilla]

i'd say it's completely your timing. glowing manifold is retarded timing most likely. there will be a serious lack of power. if you're not within about 3-5 degrees of where your timing is supposed to be, the car will run like a dog, but the motor will sound fine. however, i don't know how you really plan to find the sweet spot without any detonation detection...

going off other people's timing maps? guessing at what your #s should be?

[Shocker]

I appreciate everyones responses! Thanks for trying to help me figure it out.

But I actually found the problem, and its going to sound RETARDED. But I was working on my car today, and I dropped something under it while bleeding the brakes. I looked and noticed my cold side IC pipe off of my cooler was about 1.5 inches off from the core. So it wasn't leaking under normal driving conditions but rather a good deal of boost....... I loosened the T-Bolt and smashed the pipe back down, and clamped her up.

Go around the block for a test drive, mash 1st, and the feeling of being slammed back into my seat never felt so great as the wastegate opened and ****ing roared. I let off at 5 and I haven't had a better feeling in a long time. So that was it, a stupid ****ing coupler. I did some spiriting driving later with it up to only 5k since it was only tune to 5500, I'm keeping it safe. Boost is sitting back down now at 14-15 psi (I didn't touch the controller) WG is opening around 4400-4500 rpms. Later tonight the same coupler came loose again. Keep in mind... these are bead rolled and t-bolted vibrant everything, with only 4 couplers total.... I clamped the piss out of it and it was fine all the way home. Not sure what to do about these couplers/clamps more driving I'll know more if they are going to hold

As for the glowing manifold it is from the light amount of timing. I ordered the fuel parts, they will be here Wednesday, also I bunch of 2000 degree heat shield for my wires, lines and hoses around the turbo.

I've got a few small oil leaks and a little coolant leak, hopefully one of my friends will be able to let me use their lift so I can better see what and where exactly its coming from. One bug at a time, But the main one seems to be solved for now.

Gas mileage also improved since the leak has been fixed, which is good.

thanks all,

-Cory

[matafied]

sweet great to hear it was nothing major. but you still owe us a small vid clip even if its just of idle and a small rev. im easy to please lol

[Shocker]

sweet great to hear it was nothing major. but you still owe us a small vid clip even if its just of idle and a small rev. im easy to please lol

I'll get a hold of my buddy tomorrow whose camera I borrowed, he has all the footage. I'll tell him to send it over asap!

[240z4u]

Great news man!

I would rather hear your retarded then have major problems with the motor LOL.

Evan

[Carl H]

glad to hear you figured it out...gotta love map based ecus...things pop off and you would never know it.as far as timing goes...you need to pump more in, your egts are proly thru the roof...i had like 19* @ 14psi to be really safe but the dyno had a torque curve like freeking double black diamond ski slope.added about 3 degrees back in and it is a totally different car, so i think you have more safe power to be had not to mention when i added that timing in egts cooled off and even on 22psi i dont see much more than 860*c in my egts.

[l0nestar]

Congrats! Glad it was something 'simple'. Now post those vids!!!

[Shocker]

Yeah timing needs to be added more all over even down low.

Carl, Did you leave that 19* across the board on 14 psi? or did you slowly tapper it off up top?

Yeah she is really hot lol, you can feel it in the cabin because my exhaust flows under my seat. My rear bumper is also just destroyed as well...

I might be driving... down 180 miles each way to finish the tune Friday... I'm not sure if thats a good idea or not. I'm driving my car around now to figure out and hopefully find all the bugs before hand.

I think the hot EGT's are effecting my coolant temps as well, under normal driving I sit at 180* F after a few boosted pulls she will rise to around 195-200*. Then slowly come back down after a bit of driving normal.

[Darius]

Great news man!

I would rather hear your retarded then have major problems with the motor LOL.

Evan

Ditto. Glad to hear it was something free too!

So you are blowing couplers off of bead-rolled pipes? I thought bead-rolling was good enough to prevent that from happening.

[Shocker]

Ditto. Glad to hear it was something free too!

So you are blowing couplers off of bead-rolled pipes? I thought bead-rolling was good enough to prevent that from happening.

your not kidding! I thought the same, they are/were pressing themselves off slowly but surely... I wonder if the compressor surge is doing it... It will surge if I short shift like 3.5-4k and below after a bit of boost has been made. After that its all BOV. Tail 50mm if your wondering.

I might have to upgrade to something better, or switch to a steel IC setup for the piping, that way I can clamp it harder. My t-bolts actually start deforming my IC piping....

[Carl H]

hrum after looking at my setup i was running about 21* at 14psi to redline when i dynoed...and when i added 2*in at 14psi it made a world of difference...i had 19* at 18psi and the torque curve looked like hell again added 2* more and it felt much better...but i have not redynoed since.you might not need much more timing for your setup but the torque curve will say it all, just get it nice and smooth after peak torque and you should be good to go.if your coolant temps are spiking then your egts are way high, i wouldnt boost anymore until you add some timing back in because super high egts = pwnzed pistons.my coolant temps actualy DROP when doing a hard pull but thats proly due to the clutchfan and radiator setup i am running.

[Shocker]

good thoughts. My fuel parts will be here tomorrow, that needs to be fix asap as well. My FP Is ****ing all over. It dropped off yesterday to 30 psi (I suggest anyone with a big turbo get a wideband, mine saved my motor), I upped to to 53-54 where it was before and it stayed last night. I started it up this morning we were at 80 psi, by the time I made it to work 70..... my a/fs are showing it as well. heh.

but yeah, I wont do any pulls till its resolved, best to be safe than sorry, it just a c*** tease anyway.

[240z4u]

There is no reason to not drive it to your tuner, just don't be a lead foot.

Evan

[Shocker]

There is no reason to not drive it to your tuner, just don't be a lead foot.

Evan

Trust me lol, I'm very resistant to currently getting on the throttle. It suits me just fine to drive normal, even at that rate, its retarded loud under a bit of load. The noise alone makes me so happy lol.

I will most likely head down Friday to finish the tune on pump gas. I'll be bringing tools and all kinds of **** just incase haha. Its great at cruising speed plenty of passing power in 5th even with the lag at speed.

EDIT: oh yeah, what are you guys doing about your brakes? Mine currently feel very manual and lacking... they are r33's, and bled, I've bled them like 3 times now, and when I get to the bottom of the throw its not soft its like rock solid. z32 master, and stock s-13 brake booster. Vac line is hooked up to it from the plenum, should it be from the intake infront of the turbo?

[rb25drag]

Sounds like your ride is coming together!! Congrads, Mine is still messing with my mind

[Carl H]

check that the checkvalve for the brake booster isnt leaking...could be pressurizing under boost.

[Shocker]

check that the checkvalve for the brake booster isnt leaking...could be pressurizing under boost.

hmm, I will have to check that, from reading it seems I might not have enough VAC, I'm only at 8-10" at idle.... with a bit of a rev it goes up, I'll monitor it closely on my way to school.

EDIT: do s-13's even have this valve stock since they are n/a?

I might need this... http://www.courtesyparts.com/M...BVHCV

I used the stock r33 vac line for my old setup.... I remember a piece of plastic in between the line that when to my booster....

[Darius]

I'm almost certain all modern cars have a check valve in the brake booster line.

[240z4u]

Darius, you are correct. Mine had one from the factory, as did my 72' datsun 240z.

[l0nestar]

EDIT: do s-13's even have this valve stock since they are n/a?

I might need this... http://www.courtesyparts.com/M...BVHCV

I used the stock r33 vac line for my old setup.... I remember a piece of plastic in between the line that when to my booster....

Yes, S-13's do. I just replaced my check valve.

[Shocker]

Yeah mines most likely bad then, I take it its inside of the booster? I might be able to use to inline z32 one to fix the issue easier... Everytime I remove brake lines I ****ing round off the nuts, and yes.. I'm using line wrenches.

[l0nestar]

My check valve was in-line like the one you posted from Courtsey Parts. It is located in-between the intake manifold and the brake booster.

I can look for the part # when I get home though. I got it direct from my local Nissan dealership.

[gawdzilla]

good to hear about the car. maybe i'll go to carlisle to check it out and we can do a few runs

[Shocker]

good to hear about the car. maybe i'll go to carlisle to check it out and we can do a few runs

Sounds like a good plan to me! better get out there I'm always game for a few pulls.

[Arrow]

Actually the check valve in question is (normally) behind the engine along the firewall about half way along the length of the brake booster vac line. The valve is an inline part that to my knowledge just looks like a plastic coupler or something similar. I have a '90 and that's where mine is...