I was thinking the same thingCarl H wrote:good stuff but I feel that a full on tune will be needed to take advantage of the itb's.
I'm excited to get the price on this good work!!!
I was thinking the same thingCarl H wrote:good stuff but I feel that a full on tune will be needed to take advantage of the itb's.
Well put!!! Most the people in this forum have no idea what it takes to actually fabricate a part. Anyone that looks at this and thinks its just a piece of aluminum has never fabricated a day in their life. Like I said before, make your money bro... Don't listen to any of these cheap *** low ballers here. You know what the piece is worth, so price it accordinglydigzsublime wrote:Wow, the direction this thread has taken makes me sad.
Brody, Good work man!! I'm a big fan of the idea and execution. Personally, I wouldn't reproduce this part. I'd keep it all to myself. Especially after the way people are already whining about a price that hasn't even been set yet for a part you haven't even completed.
This isn't something he whipped out with a rotary tool in his garage. It's a specialty, low volume, niche market piece that you can not buy anywhere else. Last I checked, if you don't like the price of something, you don't have to buy it.
To all the experts who chimed in with their cost estimates, I'd love to see you get one of these made for less than 500. Now keep in mind. Part of that money would be to pay a shop to do all the R&D for proper fitment. Then, you'd get to pay a machine shop the set up fee. Buy the material, and then hope it turns out good and fits well. If not, well then you get to pay them all over again.
Sure, if you worked at a machine or fab shop that had all the equipment, and you did all of the labor yourself, it could be done cheaper. But, if you bought this hypothetical kit, you wouldn't have to do any of that.
To all the whiners. Please zip it. Let him decide if he wants to make it and let the rest of us have a shot at buying it. Then, you can buy the poor fitting knock offs on egay!
I know that it is not 'easy'. If it were, this thread never would have existed in the first place. (26-25 is easy-ER since the ports are very similar , but still, not EASY.)Bluefire wrote:Well put!!! Most the people in this forum have no idea what it takes to actually fabricate a part. Anyone that looks at this and thinks its just a piece of aluminum has never fabricated a day in their life. Like I said before, make your money bro... Don't listen to any of these cheap *** low ballers here. You know what the piece is worth, so price it accordingly -Bluefire
I'm gonna say an ecu tune is gonna be 100% needed.Benz_200t wrote:when using the 26 ITB setup.....
where is the position of the TPS from the 20??
assuming that the tps from the 20 has been fitted in any way....
are there any problem with is if i am using standard ecu and no upgrades at all??
the rb20det TPS is pretty much the same as the rb26dett cause i just bought one off ebay for $11 and in the pics it looked exactly the same as my rb26. and to let you all know when ever i see sensors and other parts on ebay i always like to buy em for spare parts.Benz_200t wrote:when using the 26 ITB setup.....
where is the position of the TPS from the 20??
assuming that the tps from the 20 has been fitted in any way....
are there any problem with is if i am using standard ecu and no upgrades at all??
E-mail address?tight240 wrote:Sorry for thread jacking again, but if you looking for just the 26 manifold let me know i have one im trying to get rid of, $100 plus shipping.
will pay anyfing for the adapter. my engine rb25..BrodyGoble wrote:the adapter piece has to be atleast 1" thick to clear the waterneck... The kit will include all hardware and the 1" longer studs. We are re-digitizing the completed piece after we have done all the custom "by hand" work, this will allow us to do more with the waterjet and less with the tedius milling, all-in all it will look better than the one you have seen!
rb20 list:
1.NismoZilvia2.ripracer3.ryan154.StricNyne5.uber956.one puff
rb25 list:
1.midnightsliding2.L0nestar3.HPF chrisk
Crikey! Spelling and Grammar Police! Citizens arrest! Is not 'English' the language of NSW?R31str wrote: will pay anyfing for the adapter. my engine rb25..
i allready got a jun RB26 inlett manifolds and the TB's all i need is the RB25 adapter plate. that will be awsome.i bought the parts last year after seeing the blitz add on the HPI magazines. then checkt out every AUTObarn for it and they neva new it existed. my machanic tried 3 difrent places to get custom made and no luk wif dat. my car is still in the workshop from novemba last year, waiting for sumfing.... hopefully dis could be a dream cum true..... my car is at EFficant Autos, brunker rd greenacre... interested in product aswellmy msn, [email protected]. 0430020052amount$$$ il pay any price ASAP
I think you're on the right track... I wouldn't be surprised to see a manifold optimized for a RB26's stock power and power band cause a few problems for a RB20... it's kind of like some of the guys over in the S2000 forum not understanding why running a short runner ITB setup doesn't make more power but makes it very peaky... shorter runners will move your peak power up in the rev range... the S2000's already up in the top with the stock setup so you expect peak power to move outside of the motor's operating range. It's all about designing the intake setup to the motor and it's power goals... this is why I'm concerned about the TODA ITB setup on my AP2... it has a 2.2L but all of the other AP1 and 2's in other countries have the 2.0L's... but TODA does make a 2.2 and 2.4 kit so who knows... and I haven't been able to get them to respond to emails yet... but back to RB'sDriftingisLame wrote:Has anyone read 90% of the threads you get from a search on SAU about this mod? They will tell you a magazine called "Zoom" did this on a pretty well modified rb20, and aparently lost power everywhere. They put the stock manifold back on and got it all back. I know its really convenient and looks way better having the same side plenum, and I'd personally take a small power loss to favor simplicity, looks, and ease of repair, but they said the loss was BIG.
I personally think the lack of displacement and the ITB's might have played a role in why this setup works so well on a 26 and not 20. Lack of piston speed will make a manifold that was built to flow for a 2.6L motor not flow efficiently enough until a much higher engine RPM.
What I've done is sliced up the lower runners of an RB20, and I'm going to weld a 26 plenum to those, and the stock 20 throttle body to that (once I find a plenum for a good price). I think using the stock rb20 throttle body might keep more low end, of course, this is all just theory, since I have not tried any of this personally, I dont have a flow bench, and I dont have a dyno...
Any thoughts?