RB25det Aluminum racing radiator

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
rb25drag
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Ok im having a hard time cooling my RB, What radiator are you guys running? I have an aluminum Racing single core and it does the job for about 20 min then it likes to warm up when im under boost. I dont think it has enough water capasity to keep up.

I have two 12 inch fans currently no thermostat due to running at the track.I have tried a 160 and 170 thermo but still runs 190+

It runs at 160-165 degrees. After a few track passes it warms up to 190. Doesnt seem to like anything over 175 at all. Gets a hesitant in the throttle.Im going to get a 2 or 3 core radiator and see if that fixes the problem anyone know were I can find one?[IMG][/IMG]



grenade180sx
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i have a mishimoto( yes the same company that made fast and furious tires rofl.

i got mine shipped for $220 and i have ZERO problems with oveheating, and i drift my car almost daily as long as u have airflow you will be good. i have 2 fans one 10inch and another 14 inch both of which i bought from kragen. they work perfect and i only run one in daily driving and traffic.

get rid of that stock chrome pos and buy something that is actually helping.

AIRFLOW IS THE BEST THING!

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Coolwhip
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C&R Twin pass radiator ftw

= $$

(don't have one personally but they have done wonders on those I've seen)

rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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How many cores is yours?

rb25drag
Posts: 1311
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The only problem I am having finding radiators is getting them with the inlet and outlet both on the passenger side!!!!

Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Do you have any duct work to keep air from bypassing the radiator around the sides and bottom? Try that. Duct work is key with these motors.

Joe
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rb25drag wrote:The only problem I am having finding radiators is getting them with the inlet and outlet both on the passenger side!!!!
you need to find one for a KA 240sx.


rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Kamin wrote:
you need to find one for a KA 240sx.
The radiator I have installed is a KA, and I can only find it in a single core. Its fine for a 300hp motor. But not anything over that.

I re-mounted my fans on the back side of the radiator opposite of wat the picture shows and Slotted the plastic non function vents in the bumper to allow more air. My problem is I have a roll bar support brace for the radiator core support I welded in to stiffen the front end So it would be hard to box in the radiator.


gawdzilla
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your old setup might've been better... puller runs better than pusher

either way those fans look like junk, kinda like the ones i'm running now... they don't seem to do anything.

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leesredgt
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why not just get a koyo rad?the one i got is made for the swap into the s13 chassis and has both the inlet and outlet on the same side and i also got the flex-a-lite fans all from the same place.

rb25drag
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My fans push a ton of air. I dont think its a fan/air problem. Its def the radiator not flowing enough water.

I would like to find a Koyo as long as its more than 1 core. IM not putting anything less than 2 cores back in.

Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Many people run on a single core Koyo radiator without issue in high heat. There is something else wrong here. Hell, I ran my stock KA (AT) radiator without it creeping up on me until the ambient temp got above 85F.

It is possibly:A) Ducting around the radiatorB) Fans are undersized and pushing (reduces flow by 15-20%).C) Your water pump does not have any blades left on it

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mello88
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Car: s13

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Darius wrote:Many people run on a single core Koyo radiator without issue in high heat. There is something else wrong here. Hell, I ran my stock KA (AT) radiator without it creeping up on me until the ambient temp got above 85F.

It is possibly:A) Ducting around the radiatorB) Fans are undersized and pushing (reduces flow by 15-20%).C) Your water pump does not have any blades left on it
+1.. What mixture % are you running? Have you tried water wetter? What pressure rating is your radiator cap? Does it hold good pressure?

FYI I've read in a few places the Koyo's fin density is a little high, which reduces airflow thru the core at idle and low speeds.. Combined with how thick they are this sometimes causes low speed cooling issues. Have heard great things about Griffin rads, they'll custom build whatever you want. I was given an aluminum single core like yours for my 20, but if it doesn't keep it cool I'm calling Griffin up:


Yellow4g63
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I tried to get a Griffin rad but they were back ordered for a while at the time so i said phuk it give me the Koyo.

grenade180sx
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yeah its basically all in ducting.

i have seen quite a few rbs go pow when running koyo's

i run 100% distilled water and it loves it. of course now it getting cooler ill add sum coolant but water seems to keep my temps perfect even when taching out sliding. and a friends of mine has a ka-t, he took off the bottom guard and it overheated in 10 mins. rofl

just go to EBAY type in rb25 radiator.

i got 10 items and they are all aluminum 3 row rads

good luck

rb25drag
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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The radiator I have is custom made from Cool Radiator out of Chattanooga TN, It has a 16lb cap.

The issue has been it pushing my coolant out of my radiator and into my reserve tank. Usually only under boost and not all the time. Mostly when it gets over 180 degrees.

I have tried 12lb caps, 18lb caps, Ive tried new thermostats 3 of them to be exact, no thermostat, Ive tried pure water , mixed antifreeze, well water, city water, Its a brand new motor so the entire coolant has been flushed, I have even flushed the system 3 times since the motor has been re-built,

The water flows extremely well. So the water pump is fine.

I have took samples and did a Die test on the water for gases in-case of a small head gasket leak or some form of boost getting into the coolant, but it all came back negative. So I am pretty much out of options besides going to a bigger radiator.

Im going to try and fabricate a better shroud around the fan area.

The fans actually pushes the air better than pulls it. For some reason it stays cooler longer with my pusher fan setup now.

rb25drag
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I am fixing to purchase a radiator, Has anyone used a Godspeed r32 radiator?

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nizmo zilvia
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Car: 95 240sx w/ S14 SR20 Blacktop

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****!! Since October you haven't fixed your problem?

I might buy a stock GTR radiator for around $300 or w/e they go for.

240z4u
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Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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My hunk of crap car did not overheat when it was 100+ sitting on the track in reynolds last year.

I have a stock automatic S14 radiator with a pusher fan.

Yeah, it runs warm but never gets out of hand at all.

You seriously need to pull your water pump!

Evan

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Kansei240sx
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Car: S13 - RB25 Circuit car
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I have some FAL 210 fans pulling, and a Copper SR20DET radiator with a some mod's to make the hoses on top make it. With my Themostatic control, the hottest it gets is 90 degrees centigrade, and then goes back down to 80. I cut the tip of the radiator support to lean it forward and it fits nicely under it and then a center piece for the radiator cap.

The hottest i ever saw it get was in the summer around 100 degrees outside or so, running the factory P.O.S. oil cooler. I have a greddy oil cooler and that seemed to make a massive difference in coolant and oil temps and the overall engine intake temp being that the clunky can of doom isnt under your intake manifold anymore.

Also... DONT ever run without a thermostat. It doesnt help at all and you'll get a very uneven distribution of coolant to help lower the temp of the engine.


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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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i ran my stock sohc ka rad with a ford taurus elec fan for over a year, never had overheating problems. i dont think the radiator is ur problem. like others said, maybe its ur water pump or some other thing in your cooling system.

Yellow4g63
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ANVIL wrote:i ran my stock sohc ka rad with a ford taurus elec fan for over a year, never had overheating problems. i dont think the radiator is ur problem. like others said, maybe its ur water pump or some other thing in your cooling system.
How hot dose it get in where you live? Thats going to play a big role too.

rb25drag
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I havent Drove my car since race season ended. We average 90-105 in the summer!

There is nothing wrong with my water pump It flows the water really well it just my radiator will not keep up! It was fine before when I was running around stock 250hp but since my upgrades it won't keep up.

I know I need a good oil cooler also I just havent gotten around to gettin one.

But im fixing to buy the God speed radiator, It seems like it holds alot more compasity and thats what I need.

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ANVIL
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Yellow4g63 wrote:
How hot dose it get in where you live? Thats going to play a big role too.
good point. a few days out of the year we see some mid 70's. 80s if were lucky

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USMCgetsome
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ok the oil cooler idea is FANTASTIC! I ran my stocker rb25det last year all damn summer and even with the nismo thermostat and koyo rad and 12" puller fans x2. No oil cooler at all. Temps stayed constantly at 180-190. If i got on it off the highway 200+. Not cool. I'd say oil cooler setup all the way!

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Kansei240sx
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KUILLIN_DRIFTER wrote:ok the oil cooler idea is FANTASTIC! I ran my stocker rb25det last year all damn summer and even with the nismo thermostat and koyo rad and 12" puller fans x2. No oil cooler at all. Temps stayed constantly at 180-190. If i got on it off the highway 200+. Not cool. I'd say oil cooler setup all the way!
Indeed it is. The greddy oil cooler kit isnt a bad way to go if you have a few extra dollars to spend. I noticed my oil pan temperatures this winter barely break 160 degrees after i've been driving around for quite some time.

The thermostat in the greddy units is amazing.

Also... Some RB's you cant do a damn thing for unless you strip the entire engine down to the bare block and head and get it vatted. Rust deposits and "the goosh" tend to get stuck up in the coolant jackets and the coolant lines running to and fro from anything in these engines from sitting around so long. When the coolant in these engines evaporate or dry up, the ethylene glycol in the coolant is gone and a few other things that inhibit rust because the last thing to go is the water and byproducts.

That would be the last thing i'd do if i were really anal about how my engine cools, and I AM, but hell dont take my word for it, i've had several friends with SR's and RB's we've done this too.

rb25drag
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Kansei240sx wrote:
Indeed it is. The greddy oil cooler kit isnt a bad way to go if you have a few extra dollars to spend. I noticed my oil pan temperatures this winter barely break 160 degrees after i've been driving around for quite some time.

The thermostat in the greddy units is amazing.

Also... Some RB's you cant do a damn thing for unless you strip the entire engine down to the bare block and head and get it vatted. Rust deposits and "the goosh" tend to get stuck up in the coolant jackets and the coolant lines running to and fro from anything in these engines from sitting around so long. When the coolant in these engines evaporate or dry up, the ethylene glycol in the coolant is gone and a few other things that inhibit rust because the last thing to go is the water and byproducts.

That would be the last thing i'd do if i were really anal about how my engine cools, and I AM, but hell dont take my word for it, i've had several friends with SR's and RB's we've done this too.


Ya I agree with you on the oil cooler. I definatly need one I just havent gotten around to building one. Im not going to buy a 400$ greddy or HKS when I can build one for less than 100$

My block was just took apart and re-built 6 months ago so I know for sure there is no rust in the water jackets.

I am just looking for a radiator that will flow good enough to keep my engine temps around 170 degree's at all times and capable of flowing good when I decide to get on it. Since its in the s13 chassis I don't have alot of room to work with. But im not going to pay 400$ for a name brand part that I can get the same quality for half. Im a tight wad and I spend the least I can! LOL

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driftingmy240sx
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i have a 3" koyo and a 1 15" fan and it stays around 185 degrees whenrunning down the highway. about 195 on the city steets. i got my rad off of ebay and used one for a ka24de.

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BoostFab
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search on ebay sometimes the nascar vendors sells 4" core fluidyne or c&r radiators. that's what i recommend if you track your car often.

if you want to go cheap, Griffin radiators are good also

rb25drag
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I was looking at the Griffin but comparing it to the Godspeed the Godspeed radiator is slightly wider by 1/2 inch. So it would hold a little more coolant, Also the God speed I can get for 240$ shipped VS the Griffin 400$. Thats why I was wondering if anyone has tried the Godspeed.

I have drilled out some extra vents in my Grill for better circulating air, Im also working on a custom shroud.

I had a guy on Zilvia trying to sell me a USED koyo 3" radiator for 350$ shipped. To me thats a ridiculous price for a used radiator. But thanks for the advice guys. Im just looking for anything that will work, I can fabricate most anything to fit. Just need something reasonable to work with!


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