RB20DET opinions and facts

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
SR24DET
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I am thinking real hard about this swap. It is affordable and it doesnt seem so hard. To my knowledge the RB20DET gets 215hp and 187ft/lbs. I know this could turn into a big argument but what do you think between this or a turbo ka. The ka has higher displacement. Does anyone know what a RB20 redlines at? I think i might do it cause it seems like a pretty stout engine to build from. Please leave your opinion but i would like some fact to go with it.


Young_240_Guht
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What about a hybrid, as in a sr24, or rb24 KWIM? bottem end of a ka, top end of a rb different metals, different blocks, but there has to be some sort of combo one can use?!?!

just throwing fuel to the fire

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480sx
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Young_240_Guht wrote:What about a hybrid, as in a sr24, or rb24 KWIM? bottem end of a ka, top end of a rb different metals, different blocks, but there has to be some sort of combo one can use?!?!

just throwing fuel to the fire




Oh man your hilarious! You have absolutely no idea lol! Wow man im not even gona flame you but dude you need to do some research before you post things like that.

OP - The RB20 is a sweet engine. I dont know the rev limit of it but its probably around 7000. The RB like you'v said is nice and cheap, affordable power. Dont know that many facts about the RB20, if i go RB id be going with the 25. Check out the RB forum on NICO and you'll find alot more information.

Fla240sx
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if price isn't a factor... RB>KA

get new exhaust manifold(tubular aftermarket style)bigger turbo3" exhaustGreddy Intake manifoldFMICInjectorsZ32 MAFS-AFC

OWNAGE

plus it sounds badass IMHO, one of the nicest sounding engines besides a v8..........

the RB20 is a rev monster too, very short stroke....... with some valve train upgrades it has no problem doing 9krpm's

only thing that keeps the RB's down as far as being "perfect" IMHO, they are longer and move the weight more forward, they weigh a lot compared to a SR, they cost a lot, parts are harder to get then a KA, they aren't a direct bolt-in... but even a SR really isn't....


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Eikon
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I moved your thread to the RB section. Check out the sticky threads atop the forum for the answer to your questions.

If you want to check out an RB in person.. come on up to Green Bay and you can take a look at mine.

SR24DET
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Eikon wrote:I moved your thread to the RB section. Check out the sticky threads atop the forum for the answer to your questions.

If you want to check out an RB in person.. come on up to Green Bay and you can take a look at mine.
I would love to come see it and ask you a few questions.As far as combining engines gos i know its not possible unless the frame is the same and a person knows that by the first 2 letters of the engine code. I dont want an RB25 for a few reasons. first it ways to much and im not a drag racer, so turning with a tank under the hood wont work the best. second its to expensive.The RB20 is small, lighter then a 6 or 8 cylinder, must be close to the KA or less. I like drifting, even though im no master........yet, but curvey tracks are my favorite. The RB should be good at turning and still be able to put out quite a bit of power. The RB's HP is higher then an SR and i think the SR is becoming to commin. For the next year im on a tight budget because im in my last year of college but i will be done in may and then ill have a lot more money to spend on my project.Eikon, how hard was the swap and how much do you think you spent and were did you get your engine from?

Nick51
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I believe you CAN go up to 8k but it really doesnt do much for you

parts shouldnt be too hard to find unless you do your homework and know who has what plus why go with a lot of other people have ka's an sr's when you can say you have an rb

honestly for a min i thought i should of gone with an rb25 but after reading through here that all it takes is just a good build to be boosting with power

SR24DET
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My handeling is important to me because there are races every weekend down here. There are 2 kinds. Drag and sprint. Depending on the weekend we have anywhere from 15-50 ppl show up for the racing. There is one guy that is undefeated in drag, he has 15k under the hood of his STI. Im not trying to beat that, but...... There is another guy that is undefeated in the sprint. He has a 98 2 door wrx. He wont tell anything about whats under the hood but you know its not stock and he never even gets close to losing. He kills everyone and we have some high moded cars. 550hp Z33; 550hp evo8; 400hp evo8; 525hp SRT-4; 425hp SRT-4; 565hp STI; and thats just to name a few.

SR24DET
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Nick51 wrote:I believe you CAN go up to 8k but it really doesnt do much for you

parts shouldnt be too hard to find unless you do your homework and know who has what plus why go with a lot of other people have ka's an sr's when you can say you have an rb

honestly for a min i thought i should of gone with an rb25 but after reading through here that all it takes is just a good build to be boosting with power
what can go up to 8k. the red line or the money? so what are you boosting with? RB, KA, or SR?

craz4240
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My RB20 cost me about 5K to install properly,that includes motor,shipping,maitenence items,FMIC etc,and micellaneous other things along the way.

I bought a Z32 MAFS for 100$A custom Built RB25 Turbo for$550Denso 550cc Injectors For 400$Manual Boost Controller $25Tuned ECU by Carl H 120$Innovate Wideband 350$

I had on the car already 3" turbo backInjen Pod FilterSAFC2

I expect to be in the 300-350whp club so that shows you what and rb20 can do.

However I expect for next season to buy

GNX coil upgradeJ30 IgnitorNismo ThermostatCooling PanelGriffin RadHelical LSDMeth Injection

This stuff will hopefully help in my quest for 400whp...

SR24DET
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craz4240 is that on stock internals? It cost you 5k?! did you pay someone to install it for you. The kit i was looking at was only $1200. Ive seen as cheap as 800 and as big as 2.5k but 5k seems high if you did it yourself. i plan on doing the swap myself.

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Cameron
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Fla240sx wrote:only thing that keeps the RB's down as far as being "perfect" IMHO, they are longer and move the weight more forward, they weigh a lot compared to a SR, they cost a lot, parts are harder to get then a KA, they aren't a direct bolt-in... but even a SR really isn't....
if im not mistaken isnt the rb only like 50 pounds more in the front over an SR, or KA? just switch the Battery to the back and your good.

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Eikon
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Everyone stop posting in this thread until you've read through the RB forum Sticky threads.

RB20 vs 25 vs 26 - zerothread/135400

What is needed to swap - zerothread/185294

Read here before posting - zerothread/110509

Once we have the facts down... we can continue with a reasonable conversation.

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uber95
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Eikon wrote:I moved your thread to the RB section. Check out the sticky threads atop the forum for the answer to your questions.

If you want to check out an RB in person.. come on up to Green Bay and you can take a look at mine.
zerothread/110509http://forums.nicoclub ... .26965Some good linkshttp://www.rboosted.com/links.htmlYou are only limited by your reading comprehension.Some of the links may be dead, I haven't checked them all. In short READ, as was suggested by Eikonon Edit: Sory Eikon you beat me to it.

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Eikon
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SR24DET wrote:
I would love to come see it and ask you a few questions.As far as combining engines gos i know its not possible unless the frame is the same and a person knows that by the first 2 letters of the engine code. I dont want an RB25 for a few reasons. first it ways to much and im not a drag racer, so turning with a tank under the hood wont work the best. second its to expensive.The RB20 is small, lighter then a 6 or 8 cylinder, must be close to the KA or less. I like drifting, even though im no master........yet, but curvey tracks are my favorite. The RB should be good at turning and still be able to put out quite a bit of power. The RB's HP is higher then an SR and i think the SR is becoming to commin. For the next year im on a tight budget because im in my last year of college but i will be done in may and then ill have a lot more money to spend on my project.Eikon, how hard was the swap and how much do you think you spent and were did you get your engine from?
Send me an email and let me know when you want to come up. Hell... looks like I'm free tomorrow even.

Just to correct a couple things.. Sounds like you think the RB is not a 6 cyl. engine? It's a straight 6.

It is heavy! Not as heavy as the RB25... mostly due to a smaller transmission. It's def. heavier than a KA or SR. 50lbs sounds about right based on what I've always read vs. the KA. I think the SR is lighter yet.

Stop with the "combining engine" deal.. it's a conversation that isn't worth having. You've stated that you are tight on money... so don't even think about doing any creative build.


SR24DET
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My mistake...... i double checked on that and i was wrong.... it is a 6 cyl. this is the smallest 6 i have ever heard of. holy ****, a 6cyl 2L engine. that is hilarious.I dont think the inital money will be a problem. I was checking into things and the engine, trany, ecu, and wiring harness are $1100. I will replace the headgasket, water pump, thermistat, starter, and give it a tune up right away. I know i can use the stock motor mounts, trany mounts, and drive shaft. I also know that i need to make a custom throttle cable and i need an R32 brace. right there that doesnt seem to be alot of money. the only things left that im not sure about is the radiator and the exhaust and powersteering. I read that i can use the normal radiator on the stickies in on the top but i dont know if they ment RB, SR or KA radiator. I know that the SR and KA and a reverse input to out put collant tubes so i dont know which they ment. I read that i need a custom exhaust made to go around something so ill take it to the local exhaust shop. I havent read anything about weather or not i can keep my power steering. I really really want to keep it. I did read those post and unless i missed something an didnt read anything about those.

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Eikon
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You shouldn't need to replace the headgasket or starter. Those better be in decent shape or you'll want to go after the company sold you the motor.

You will want to replace the timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, and thermostat.

You'll need either a R32 xmember or a set of custom engine mounts to drop the RB20 into the S13 engine bay.

You'll need a custom downpipe made.

pwr steering shouldn't be a problem.

I'm still using the stock KA radiator. It's not the best, but it works.

You don't need a new throttle cable.

You'll want to send your wiring harness to Carl H (check his sticky thread) to have it converted.

You'll want to get a 3" cat back exhaust system as well... no sense spending all this money on a swap and not getting a decent exhaust to let it breath.

You better have at least $2500 available before you take on this project.. It might not cost that much.. but you would be in bad shape if you ran out of money half-way through the project.

PLEASE buy your engine from a good reliable source! Don't buy an ebay engine, or anything out of Montreal area (Osaka, etc...). Call Gabe at JHOT, Dale at 180faktory, or the other NICO sponsors.

just my $.02.

SR24DET
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JHOT was one of the places where i was looking to get my RB from. I read in a sticky that i needed to fab up a new throttle cable. your saying i dont? that would be sweet if i didnt have to. I wanted to upgrade the headgasket just incase and so i dont have to rip the engine out later. im looking at a cosmetic thicker headgaket to lower compression. I knew about the xmeber from the R32, im ***-u-me-ing that it isnt that hard to find nor to expensive. I was planning on looking at a wiring diagram and trying to wire it up myself. I also read that i should get a tac meter to adjust my RPM gague. I do plan on upgrading my exhaust but i just remebered that i didnt put that money into my calculations, thank you for reminding me. Think i might need to wait 1 more month of saveing money be4 i try it. where did you go to get your Spark plugs, wires, thermistat, timing belt, and pullies?

craz4240
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SR24DET wrote:craz4240 is that on stock internals? It cost you 5k?! did you pay someone to install it for you. The kit i was looking at was only $1200. Ive seen as cheap as 800 and as big as 2.5k but 5k seems high if you did it yourself. i plan on doing the swap myself.
Well I can break that down for ya if you'd like and you te;l me if it makes sence.

Motor and trans 1100$ shipped

Timing belt $80

Idler and Tensioner $200

Water Pump-$150

New Spark Plugs 100$

Set of coils-$100

Spare harness,X-member,and XTD Clutch-$250

Machined Flywheel-$70

Rear main seal-$25

Initial Cheapo Oil Change-$25

Mobil 1 Oil Change 75$

Trans Fluid-$35

Coolant-$20

Heatshrink-$10

Koyo Rad-$250

Autometer Cobalt Boost gauge-$200

HKS Turbo Timer-$110

HKS Fan Controller-$120

FAL Dual 10" fans-$200

GTR Intercooler 160$

FMIC Piping-$150

T-Bolt Clamps-$80

Cutting discs-$25

So $3383 however I also factured in a 5 speed swap and other things into the 5k.

Not that bad actually,well worth the money and the time we spent putting it in the car.I wouldn't suggest changing the stock headgasket at all myself,more or less going on advice i was given and spend more time and attention keeping the motor cool and if you do remove the head replace the OEM gasket but use some good ARP headstuds.

You have no need to lower the compression unless you want to toally kill the off boost response as the stock compression is 8.5:1.

You can make good power with simple mods with these motors and their alot of fun.

Nick51
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SR24DET wrote: what can go up to 8k. the red line or the money? so what are you boosting with? RB, KA, or SR?
you can rev it up to 8k but it aint gonna do much

boosted rb20 on 12psi

darkstar575
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quote:: Idler and Tensioner $200 ::Holy **** I bought my belt and tensioners for 120....

SR24DET
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Im debating between this or another car. I really really want this but with winter comming i need another car. I am going to look at a 93 civic for the winter but i think i might just say screw it and do the swap and try and get through the snow. It wouldnt be so bad if my car wasnt so low. I do have coilovers but they take forever to adjust. Someone said that the greddy intake manifold wont work on the RB20? why would that be, wouldnt they have a similar head but a different block. Also what can you do to it to make it red at 9k?!

craz4240
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Redlining at 9k is not a good idea lol For that you would need orfice restrictors,head drainage,titanium springs and retainers,I say better valves and guides,some high duration cams,and a massive *** turbo to have any power at all up there.

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nizmo zilvia
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These motors are teh ****zzz!!!!!! What I love about them is that they are UNDER rated!!!

SR24DET
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which do you have nizmo, the RB20, 25, or 26?

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lilskyline240
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rb20, look under his avatar. Ive got a rb25 chillin in my garage ready to go in soon if you wanna stop by and check it out too. Im in milwaukee

SR24DET
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that would be cool, i was just there today. i go to milwaukee about every weekend

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blues14
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Whats hilarious about a 2.0 i-6?? especially when plenty of them(including mine) are making over 300whp with very little modification and no internal upgrades?? And second, the smallest 6 cylinder is Mazda's 1.8 V-6 in the MX-3. So There
SR24DET wrote:My mistake...... i double checked on that and i was wrong.... it is a 6 cyl. this is the smallest 6 i have ever heard of. holy ****, a 6cyl 2L engine. that is hilarious.I dont think the inital money will be a problem. I was checking into things and the engine, trany, ecu, and wiring harness are $1100. I will replace the headgasket, water pump, thermistat, starter, and give it a tune up right away. I know i can use the stock motor mounts, trany mounts, and drive shaft. I also know that i need to make a custom throttle cable and i need an R32 brace. right there that doesnt seem to be alot of money. the only things left that im not sure about is the radiator and the exhaust and powersteering. I read that i can use the normal radiator on the stickies in on the top but i dont know if they ment RB, SR or KA radiator. I know that the SR and KA and a reverse input to out put collant tubes so i dont know which they ment. I read that i need a custom exhaust made to go around something so ill take it to the local exhaust shop. I havent read anything about weather or not i can keep my power steering. I really really want to keep it. I did read those post and unless i missed something an didnt read anything about those.

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uber95
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blues14 wrote: And second, the smallest 6 cylinder is Mazda's 1.8 V-6 in the MX-3. So There
Actually that's incorrect. The smallest AUTOMOTIVE 6cyl was the 1.5L in the Alfa Romeo 6C produced in the '20's.... There was a very, very small displacement 6cyl used in an Italian motorcycle IRC, less than a litre. Hijacked for factual correction.

grenade180sx
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and the worlds biggest engine is...

The Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine is the most powerful and most efficient prime-mover in the world today. The Aioi Works of Japan's Diesel United, Ltd built the first engines and is where some of these pictures were taken.

It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions, all are inline engines. These engines were designed primarily for very large container ships. Ship owners like a single engine/single propeller design and the new generation of larger container ships needed a bigger engine to propel them.

The cylinder bore is just under 38" and the stroke is just over 98". Each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches (1820 liters) and produces 7780 horsepower. Total displacement comes out to 1,556,002 cubic inches (25,480 liters) for the fourteen cylinder version. Some facts on the 14 cylinder version: Total engine weight: 2300 tons (The crankshaft alone weighs 300 tons.) Length: 89 feet Height: 44 feet Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm

Fuel consumption at maximum power is 0.278 lbs per hp per hour (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption). Fuel consumption at maximum economy is 0.260 lbs/hp/hour. At maximum economy the engine exceeds 50% thermal efficiency. That is, more than 50% of the energy in the fuel in converted to motion. For comparison, most automotive and small aircraft engines have BSFC figures in the 0.40-0.60 lbs/hp/hr range and 25-30% thermal efficiency range.

Even at its most efficient power setting, the big 14 consumes 1,660 gallons of heavy fuel oil per hour.

take that you save the earth people

so sorry i just had to!

Rb20det for the win!

get your facts first grasshopper before u worry about powerand a rwd in snow is just a small snow plow!


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