Please add information or correct me if I make a mistake! This will be a sticky and possibly an article if it pans out well!!

First things first: any supplemental questions related to the swap (i.e. wiring) can be found here http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/110509

What should I replace before the swap?
This is a very hard question because everyone’s budget is different. Not everyone can afford to spend an extra $2000+ worth of parts before the engine is even in. What I recommend to replace is:
1) Water pump
2) Timing Belt AND tensioner/idler pullies
3) Oil Pump
4) Clutch (possibly flywheel if you have the cash flow)
5) All accessory belts ( http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=119087 )
6) Fuel Filter
7) Fuel Pump (replace with higher flow unit)
8) Spark Plugs (more info comming soon)
Those items will ensure you have a strong running engine for a long time. They are basic maintenance items that are overlooked by a lot of people who subsequently have engine failures.

RB20
Will bolt in using stock mounts and R32 crossmember.
you can also use aftermarket ones from companies such as McKinney and TopHat
Will use stock 5 speed driveshaft
Custom downpipe may be needed for both S13 and S14
Electric fans are required
Custom throttle cable bracket may be required
Tach adapter or gauge cluster swap required for accurate tach signal

RB25
Requires electric fans
Custom throttle cable bracket may be required
Tach adapter or gauge cluster swap required for accurate tach signal.
Then this one gets a little more complicated.
Mounts
R33 crossmember and mounts can be used, BUT you must cut the hood skeleton or replace the factory 25 manifold with something like a Greddy unit or similar.
Mckinney and TopHat make mounts if you only have a motorset and no crossmember.

Driveshaft
The cheapest route for this is to open the phone book and start calling offroad shops and driveshaft shops. You will generally spend $225-$275 for a custom shaft if you bring them the parts. They will tell you where to measure and then make the shaft.

Shops like Mckinney do make a bolt in 1 piece shaft provided you are using their mounts but they are rather expensive.

Downpipe
In a s13 the stock downpipe clears if you have mounted via the crossmember swap or aftermarket mounts.

In a S14, it’s a bit different. Using the R33 crossmember you will probably need a custom downpipe. If you use aftermarket mounts the stock R33 downpipe will work (may vary by mounts, generally it will work no problem).

RB26
First, if you are considering going with a RB26, I hope you have large sums of money at your disposal. This is a very very expensive swap. Expect to spend in the 8,000-$10,000 neighborhood to do it right. This guide is going off the assumption you will be using the stock twin turbos. Things change if you convert to single. First things first, you cant use the RB26 AWD transmission without some modification to the floor of the 240sx. There are RUMORS of it fitting without modification and AWD components working but we do not have verification yet. So ffor this guide I assume you are using a RB25 transmission.

Electric fans are required
Tach adapter or gauge cluster swap required for accurate tach signal
Custom throttle cable bracket may be required

Mounts
No option here, you need to go aftermarket. Mckinney.

Driveshaft
Same as the RB25’s requirements.

Downpipes
Again, no option here. Need McKinney downpipes.

If I have missed anything or you guys want me to add something, just post it up! Thanks NICO!

sparkplugs
belts
etc

the interchangeable thread is helpfull but it would be nice to have confirmed info.

ill add the throttle cable bracket stuff, i had to fab one up too.

as for spark plugs, ill try to find part numbers and add them in there lol bcpr7es for the 25 i believe...

i think all the swaps require adapters for the heater hoses. and i hope you like wiring :-/

Seth

do you have instructions on how to recalibrate the tach? that would be some really helpfull info

and thanks for the info, clarifications ammended

Also, the headgasket is a good thing to replace while the motor is out, I did mine in about 1.5 hours no worries at all. In the car thats a whole nother nightmare.

I'm running an rb20 in my s13 and am using the SAFC II for a tach as of now.

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'93 Vert. 12x,xxx miles white on black/grey.

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i sent mine in to them. ill let people know how it turns out when it fires up.

1. Pull Cluster
2. Remove Backin and Clear plastic cover for the gauge.
3. Take a sharpie and mark where the needle sits on the gauge face so when you're pulling the needles off you'll know where it sits so its not screwed up when you put them back on, you can also mark the spot it sits on.
4. Remove the gauge faces.
5. Where the tachometer face is... there is a variable resistor that you can stick a screwdriver in.
6. Ussually you turn it all the way to the left.
7. Once you've done that, do this entire process in reverse order.

Now since all motors are a little different and so are the electrical outputs, you might have to pull it back out, an then turn it a litte more right and a little more right, to get it perfect. Just keep doing it untill you're satisfied or if you have an SAFC it makes it alot easier to calibrate.

When using the sharpie on your gauge cluster, to get the stuff off, all you need it some axe body spray, or some red zone body spray. Apply it to some cloth and dab it onto the area that the sharpie has been applied to and it will either slowly or pretty much instantly come off.

If i left out anything or you're still confused quote and reply to this.

-Dan

A job worth doing, is worth doing right!
(6-σ Green / Right-First-Time)

BUY MY VERT!!!

** 2008 SEMA SHOW OFFICIAL CHECK-IN! **

Joe, lemme know when you want to tackle that thread, i'll help get it organized.

-Dan

remember, if you are starting out with a rolling chassis, you will need to find the Ka upper and lower harnesses. something i didnt realize.. im currently battling this harness issue.

another thing, MAKE SURE YOUR RB COMES WITH A HARNESS! believe me, they are not easy to find. for some reason, my harness was missing. im still trying to get one.

this will save you ALOT of frustration.

I am thinking about doing this swap and have seen that using the crossmember is an option but I haven't seen if there are problems like with the RB25.

Thanks.

Its been done with a rb26 oil pan. i cant remeber how well it worked out. they took out the front diff. and covered up the holes. I've seen some other ones 2 i believe. Hope this helps.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...83716

I was wondering if you guys had the parts numbers for the RB20 instead of the 26 =\ my p/s is fritzing out on me, and I was wondering if anyone had the #'s for the rb20 thanks !!!

11950-04U00

Its not unusual to see me cryyyyyy......whoa whoa......whoa whoa.......

1st time nissan owner/drifter/240sx enthusiast...

...ex chevy and toyota enthusiast..